I am at my wits end with this FVAK@#G thing. I have whats left of a 93 and 96 harness. I hate wiring.....Done. Please someone sell me a complete engine harness PLEASE! If it needs "new" ends on some damaged plugs thats no problem- I have plenty to solder on. But its beyond my patience and ability to convert the dang thing into OBD1 for the newer harness. Hate wiring! I have a large living room floor covered by two wiring harness pieces and its all going in a box to be placed in the corner of the garage to become mouse food most likely.
I am at my wits end with this FVAK@#G thing. I have whats left of a 93 and 96 harness. I hate wiring.....Done. Please someone sell me a complete engine harness PLEASE! If it needs "new" ends on some damaged plugs thats no problem- I have plenty to solder on. But its beyond my patience and ability to convert the dang thing into OBD1 for the newer harness. Hate wiring! I have a large living room floor covered by two wiring harness pieces and its all going in a box to be placed in the corner of the garage to become mouse food most likely.
When you get your harness from Erik, go back over it and figure out what you weren't getting. Things can seem pretty intimidation first time around, but after you see a finished harness, the complexity crumbles and things start making sense. Your ability to understand how the motor is wired will serve you very well.
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Originally posted by kawana:
so whats the story with these engines as far as reliability/upkeep? Do they have any known problems? Im trying to decide if this is a good choice as a DD.
Look up a Fiat or Ferrari 355 timing procedure; generally the same setup but with more tolerance for error. I mention this because it speaks for the exotic nature of the motor; it is by no means a simple pushrod, but isn't as high maintenance as say something like a V12. You must replace the timing belt every ~60,000 miles, which may involve a cradle drop, or tilt at the very least. Most owners don't want to deal with this, and that's fine. You have to keep everything in tip top shape, because there are many moving parts and lots of collateral.
It makes for an amazing DD, but be prepared to keep it serviced. I think its well worth all the effort.
I just read the VIN decoder. There does not seem to be a california spec Fiero. If that is so, then it means I can use a Fed spec DOHC engine and associated parts..
There are California spec Fieros. It's not in the VIN. It's an option code: YF5. If you have YF5 your car is California-spec. Any Fiero originally sold in California had to have the YF5 code. This means nothing except a PROM that is Cali-approved, but it makes it so you need to have a Cali engine to pass the BAR inspection.
That said, they don't check block numbers. Put in the motor with all the required smog equipment and give them a California donor car VIN. Done.
[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 05-01-2008).]
There are California spec Fieros. It's not in the VIN. It's an option code: YF5. If you have YF5 your car is California-spec. Any Fiero originally sold in California had to have the YF5 code. This means nothing except a PROM that is Cali-approved, but it makes it so you need to have a Cali engine to pass the BAR inspection.
That said, they don't check block numbers. Put in the motor with all the required smog equipment and give them a California donor car VIN. Done.
Does the California donor VIN have to be from a 5-speed car?
Make one. All you need is a long piece of bar stock and some bolts. Let me get some pictures.
Emc209i;
Were you able to get some pics of the timing tool to make? I am about to start rebuilding a DOHC to put into my Ferrari replica project car so I will be needing a timing tool as well. I asked the 60degreeV6 admin/store about a timing tool and they don't have any at this time. ebay is the only place I have seen them but I got outbid and did not notice until too late last time I saw one there.
Originally posted by Chris Yu in Steven Snyder's build thread It wasn't long ago when I was doing the cam belt as well. Though I expected trouble, I did my 91 motor without a hitch - I swear to you that it's worth the time and (insignificant amount of) money to make a good STURDY set of tools. I used these tools to pull the bolt off of the cams, and to retorque them to spec - didn't budge a bit and they lined up perfect. If it weren't for the fact that it's good long drive down there I'd come volunteer to help you out, though I'm sure that you'll be fine when you build yourself good tools. Let me find a pic...
What I did was to buy a length of like 5/8" square barstock from OSH, it was like 5 bucks. It's a modified version of the idea on 60 Degree V6 with an extra bar to distribute the load and prevent bending. You might be able to use even thicker stock. Get the biggest piece of squarestock that'll fit in the cam tower alright for strength. Cut yourself two lengths, 6 inches or so, then cut yourself two 4 inch pieces - this will be the lower and upper bars for a pair of tools. Drill a hole through the middle just big enough to fit the bolt in place - I did it by using a dremel to drill a small pilot hole, then used a HAND DRILL to drill the main hole (3/8") since I don't own a drillpress. It came out alright. Put your bolt through, and space it out with washers until you have as many threads in the hole as possible, while still being able to torque it good. I torqued mine down by feel, I didn't know there was a spec.
I don't think you're supposed to use the cam hold down tools to remove/torque the cam gear bolts anyways... but that's why I made mine extra beefy. Once you make a good set, it'll be a 15 minute job. Promise.
------------------ Chris
Blue 1987 GT Getrag 5 speed, 1" lowering springs, 225 50R16 rims and tires, Fiero Store 9 3/4" HD clutch (Halfway through a 3.4L TDC Swap!) Silver 1986 2m4 THM 125c automatic (Current commuter) Black 1985 2m4 SE Isuzu 5 speed (no paperwork)
Ok...most of you have heard of many of the problems I've had in the past and seen some of the mods I've done. So now I'm playing with a G-tech that a friend loaned to me and I decided to play with it. Of coarse I've done alot with my car and expect some tuning to do. I find a secluded area and run the 1/4 mile to see what I could put down. Well didn't go as I expected. I took off lightly without squeeling the tires (that's a feat in it self), then hammered it hard. The first thing I noticed was a slight back fire and missing. and the car hesitated bad. However despite that it ran a decent time of 14.88@101mph. But I'm not really happy with that since I've done an increadible amount of mods on this car. So I fixed the misfire problem (module loose) and ran again. This time ran it and take off was much smoother and launch didn't seem to have as much pep. In fact from 3600 to 5000 RPM it seemed to boged (leaning out I think). But now ran a 14.4@101mph. I went back to the shop and checked my adjustment and found that I had some item to tweek. I ran my exhaust analyser and realized I'm running way too lean. So tomarrow I will be adjusting my mini-AFC to richen up the mixture. If I'm lucky I could see 13's but the bog was about a 1.5 seconds. Who know. I'm doing the 13* exhaust retard and I'm considering retiming the cams....anyone have any results for comparison. I know when I had it richer before I found the cause of the misfire, it bucked increadably hard so now it might pull much better. Wish me luck. Any suggestions would be great too. I want to get into the 13's if possible.
Well I adjust the AFC and got some interesting results. @108% richer ran a 15.89; @104% richer it ran a 14.77 (less bog); @96% leaner it ran 13.68. Slighter mis-fire/bog than before. I think I can get more out of it but now I'm heading into some dangerous ground..Temp went up alot on the coolant and i'm thinking I could be leaning too much.I think it's time to get the PCM tuned for my set up. Between the headers, 3" throttle body and the 36lb injectors, I should calibrate it all together.
I'll keep you posted as soon as I get this done but it may be a while.
Were you able to get some pics of the timing tool to make? I am about to start rebuilding a DOHC to put into my Ferrari replica project car so I will be needing a timing tool as well. I asked the 60degreeV6 admin/store about a timing tool and they don't have any at this time. ebay is the only place I have seen them but I got outbid and did not notice until too late last time I saw one there.
I would make one if I had pics.
Thanks much Don
Don:
I have a timing tool that you can borrow to either use or copy.
For those of you who missed it, I posted some sound clips of my DOHC car here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/070868.html The reason it sounds so different from most is because of the short runner intake with the big open plenum and intake pipe. Sounds a lot like ITBs because with the throttle open there is pretty much a direct shot from the filter in the quarter panel to the runners.
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Originally posted by sspeedstreet: Does the California donor VIN have to be from a 5-speed car?
By the rules or by what they let through?
I gave them one that was from an auto car and they passed me.
Well, back with some new questions on the beast. I have a transmission issues that I am a little concfused about. In summary, my throw arm will not return whne the clurch pedal is released, and I can easily move the arm by hand. Talking with the tech's at work and the thread i started in tech, they suggested a problem with the presure plate/t.o. bearing. Which got me to thinking, when I bought my clutch set, I got one for an 86 v6 (my fiero originally 86 4cyl). In that set the t.o. bearing wouldn't slide over the shaft nor did it have the clips to hold it to the shaft. So I used a t.o. for the 4 cylinder. Could this be the cause of said no clutch disengement?
Throw out bearings are transmission specific. So as long as the throwout bearing is for the transmission in your car you should be good. if you have a 4cylinder TOB you should be using an isuzu.
I have a question about the 94-97 alternators, my engine came absent one, so I don't know what hardware is needed, I bought a new alternator, but I'm pretty sure I'm missing a special bracket or something. can someone possibly post some pictures of the alternator installed?
I have another question, This one is for Steven Snyder directly What car did you get this downpipe from? Its exactly what i need to build my exhaust with. the title is STS-exhaust, so is it from a Cadillac Seville STS? If I can find one that a junk yard didnt destroy from getting the converter I would be in luck.
So I take it that your making headway on your project?
I have 90% of the parts to go turbo on mine now. Hopefully gonna be done by the end of the month!
In Stevens build thread he gave some measurements on the downpipe and he listed it as a 2.5in diameter pipe, arent w-bodies equipped with 2in piping?
Good luck with the turbo install, unfortunately I leave the 6th for Hunter Ligget, California for 3 weeks so i definitely wont be done by the end of the month. I still need to fiugre out what I'm going to do about the wiring, as with my luck I will fail immensely If i were to attempt it myself. I also keep breaking 4 speed shift brackets; and I lost my timing belt cover, damn thing just disappeared, I think someone broke it and threw it away and is lying to me about it because Ive turned over everything in my garage, and thats a lot.
Originally posted by fieromadman: Kohburn sold his car... I dont see him really taking interest in doing that, but it would be nice! I got one for sale, first $500 takes it!
If you get a taker at that price I'll bet he'd fire up production again! Did he go full time 4X4? Seems he had an interest on that front. Wasn't CNC production his craft? I'd think it'd be simple to crank out a few every now and again!
Haven't seen the main stud kit anywhere but that store. Search the 60degree forum for info on the headstuds... I think that they were readily availible (as in the studs with the proper length and thread, but they didnt come in a kit with the correct quantity.
As for the harness, I bought a Haltech e6k. Won't be needing mine. If you want you could buy my old w body section of mine and we could swap over the wires one at a time when I take mine apart to incorporate the w body harness. Of course its the 94-95 ecu... don't know what you were planning on doing. Josh the guy that did my first harness will be helping with the second so if we have problems he'd be there.
And I think Kohburn got a subie... and there is no way i'm getting 500 bux for that tool...
Stock w body downpipe is definately 2.5". I hadone of the timing covers a while back too bad I tossed it! Make one out of stainless! <--- BLING!
Well, I haven't been to the dyno yet, but I want too. I just swapped out the PCM in my car. I was running a 96 OBDII computer but it was not compatable for tunning. I baught a PCM from Loyde (FastFieros) and it made one heck of a difference. It was a PCM for a 97 model in which he had a earlier program to lead from. He reprogramed it and I picked it up and installed it myself. He still has to do the final tuning on it but I don't see where it would make much more of a difference at this point. It is GREAT! Now I can slam the throttle and it just takes off....no bog, no hessitation, no dead spot! Feels like full power band all the way through. So here in a few days I might stop by the Dyno and see what I end up with.
I'm planning on a charity dyno competition this Saturday. I'll see what it come out to and post the results. I would say at this point I'm in the low 13's maybe 12's? I wont know for sure till I run it at the track. I do know it really pulls you harder into the seat than it did before..
If you didn't know it's the engine posted on the first page of this thread. I have a much larger intake on it now and that really adds to the power.
Here is the new throttle body next to the old one I just cut off. It was a 2.8l TB. New one is a 3" TB off of a 97 Tahoe (350SBC)
Wish me luck........
Thanks
[This message has been edited by procarnut (edited 06-04-2008).]
Just to make you all jealous (lol)... here some pics of the main parts that I have lined up for the turbo kit:
Here is the wideband install pictures. I bought the PLX SM-AFR. It came with the DM-5 gauge. Really worked out great wiring wise in the Fiero and seems to be a top notch product thus far.
Ran the wiring where the red circles and lines are. Looks pretty factory!
(took apart the firewall plug and ran it through there and sealed it back up. Worked great!)
Wiring ran along the bottom side of the trim. The actual wideband unit was smaller than a factory sub amp but mounted great there with some double sided tape!
Boost gauge is on the way but...
Here is the BOV it's a real Greddy type RS
This piece I'm proud of, its the Synapse 40 mm wastegate. Supposed to have the best reaction time and prevent boost creep the best. Also fully adjustable!
The Haltech E6K standalone:
This scares the shista out of me!
The Turbonetics T3/T4 T-62 trim with a stage 5 wheel and .63 A/R
Nice!...Now I will have to watch you do yours before I do mine. If you dont mind me making a suggestion, I'm planning on doing the same thing but I'm working on mounting my turbo to the rear cradle (where the muffler would normally be) just like the rear turbo set ups for the camaros. I should have pleanty of room there and minimize plumbing hazards. That way I can utilize the space and reduce the heat in the engine area because the air flow on bottom would be beter.
Haven't seen the main stud kit anywhere but that store. Search the 60degree forum for info on the headstuds... I think that they were readily availible (as in the studs with the proper length and thread, but they didnt come in a kit with the correct quantity.
As for the harness, I bought a Haltech e6k. Won't be needing mine. If you want you could buy my old w body section of mine and we could swap over the wires one at a time when I take mine apart to incorporate the w body harness. Of course its the 94-95 ecu... don't know what you were planning on doing. Josh the guy that did my first harness will be helping with the second so if we have problems he'd be there.
And I think Kohburn got a subie... and there is no way i'm getting 500 bux for that tool...
Stock w body downpipe is definately 2.5". I hadone of the timing covers a while back too bad I tossed it! Make one out of stainless! <--- BLING!
I currently have a harness and ecu from a 94 monte. The colors are to similar to each other and there is too much green in the wires, Cant decipher all of them. I thought about making a new cover, but boy a template would be really helpful, something like the old cover.
Ok ran the Dyno but didn't really get what I was looking for. First off the dyno might be conservative. Everyone at this event were complaining that their numbers were lower than at other places. I don't really know but I was hoping for more myself. The tech only ran it up to 6300 and not up to 7200 as I said to do. However he said he would only go as far it will go unless it leans out too much. So he might have been doing me a favor. I need to scan the sheet and post later. The Hp ran up to 218 at the wheels and 189 Tq both at 6300rpms. He ran this in 4th gear. I didn't get a MPH reading but may call later to see. My Fuel ratio was running way too lean so I have some work to do.
At this event, they took 2 pulls and average all four totals (2*HP and 2*TQ)/4 for average. Mine came out to 203. But the corvettes were pulling 295. Doesn't look too impressive on my part but when you compare Hp/Tq/cid not too bad. Mine figured out to .98 HP/TQ per cubic inch of displacement. Corvette? well 295 HP/TQ @ 350 CID = .84HP/TQ per cubic Inch. Now it looks a little better bu not much.
The tech estimated my Hp at crank to be 266 HP. Not bad. But here is the "oh crap!" part....I have a mini-afc module on the mass air flow leaning out the fuel mixture. After seeing the mixtures I realized I should have pulled it off and registered 100% instead of 96%. Who knows how much it would make but I did take it off afterword and wouldn't you know it has a noticable difference. Now I wish I could have saved the second pull for it now. Oh well......
I still have a tuning to go so now We have something to work with. Beside $36.00 for a pull on the dyno is nothing to really complain about. Will post picture soon.
Nice!!! BTW loss through the tranny is 15-25 hp.. so you're around 240 or 245 crank. What happened to all your torque? Are you running the 13* exhaust cam retard? We have pretty much the same intake (my only major mod).. but I have 30 more ft-lbs and 3 hp more peak... hmm.
