Looks like it would work but you can't use it in Calif - no cat

quote Originally posted by CC Rider: Looks like it would work but you can't use it in Calif - no cat

True. What if I move the muffler to the left or use a different muffler? A cat may fit in there.

Anyone know if Banzai ever put it in his car? The thread ended abruptly.

I will help you build a crossover when I get back form the 25th if you want?

Thanks for the offer! I'll take you up on that.

I would guess that building one like yours would be better for performance since you have better bends in it.

I saw a thread where the cam specs were posted for the stock cams. The exhaust cam had 8 degs more duration and slightly more lift. I happen to have two sets of cams so I pulled out my spare set and had a close look at them. It appears that the intake and exhaust cams are interchangeable except that the exhaust cam is about 120 deg later than the intake cam. My cams are still in the housing so I'll have to take them out and then try to switch them to verify for sure if they are interchangable but they appears to be. The main problem I would see with doing this is getting the timing correct. I suppose the way to do it would be to torque down the stock exhaust cams at the stock setting, then turn the crank backwards 240 deg and then torque the exhaust cams converted to intake cams down.

Does anyone think that using 4 exhaust cams would work?

[This message has been edited by Doug85GT (edited 07-14-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: I saw a thread where the cam specs were posted for the stock cams. The exhaust cam had 8 degs more duration and slightly more lift. I happen to have two sets of cams so I pulled out my spare set and had a close look at them. It appears that the intake and exhaust cams are interchangeable except that the exhaust cam is about 120 deg later than the intake cam. My cams are still in the housing so I'll have to take them out and then try to switch them to verify for sure if they are interchangable but they appears to be. The main problem I would see with doing this is getting the timing correct. I suppose the way to do it would be to torque down the stock exhaust cams at the stock setting, then turn the crank backwards 240 deg and then torque the exhaust cams converted to intake cams down. Does anyone think that using 4 exhaust cams would work?

It was tried by someone on 60 degree v6, and Im not sure how it turned out. I dont think it went well, but as reassurance nothing turns our well on 60degreev6 in the DOHC section. It should help, but getting the timing right is the biggest hurdle.

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: I have a question about space in the engine bay and the exhaust. I saw this photo from another build thread: Will this fit as is or would it require cutting the trunk?

no cutting required for that

To close to the alternator for me

Guys I'm having some issues with my swap. My car seems to start up and run just fine if its been sitting for 30 mins+. As soon as I drive it to work and shut it off, SOMETIMES it doesn't want to start right back up, I have to wait like 15 minutes and then she'll fire right up. So considering its got 400 kms on the motor everything is new, so my fuel pressure is good, new plugs and wires. So I'm thinking its my coil packs, they are in the stock location and the exhaust heatsheilds are installed along with some pipe wrap. I swapped them out for a good known used set, and they seemed to work fine for the first hour, but then yeilded the same kind of results. whats the best solution for me? reroute the packs?

Don't assume that it is your coil packs. You need to accurately identify the problem before you start changing parts out or you will end up wasting a lot of money. Start by bringing an old spark plug with you. The next time your car does not want to start, stick the old plug into one of your plug wires and have it touching something big and metal. Then crank the engine and verify that you are getting spark. If you are, then it is time to start checking for fuel.

It is very unlikely that all 3 coils in the coil pack would stop working all at once. If your problem is no spark, then you need to look at common elements such as the ignition module or maybe some loose wiring.

Did you check your fuel pressure to make sure? Also have you driven it further than just to work like, drive it around for awhile to see if it starts to cut out or just dies? My first impression is maybe its vapor locking. When it acts up try bleeding the the fuel injector rail to get any air that might be in it and try starting again.

If it is electrical related, maybe your fuel injectors are not firing. When it acts up, I would try squirting starting fluid to see if it fires, if it does then we know its a fuel related problem.
If so, then use noid light to see if the injectors are getting a signal, if not getting a signal I would check the crank sensor. Although your car is running good, there have been instances where the crank sensor wires need to be switched but in every case i've heard of so far, when that has needed to be done it is due to the car never wanting to start or will run really crappy like it is misfiring. Apparently the crank sensors can have reversed polarity which is a manufacturing flaw.

I found a solution to the water on the front plugs.

Northstar and the Aurora 4.0 V8 engines use a Delphi boot that completely seals the spark plug hole. Since those engine are descendants of the 3.4 DOHC, I grabbed one and walked over to a 3.4 DOHC that I saw in the junk yard. It fit like a glove. It is water tight. So I grabbed 8 of the boots. Pick-n-Pull charged me $5 for them @ $0.50 + tax and Pick-n-Pulls BS fees.

When I got home, I put a set on the front of my engine, then poured 1/2 liter of water over the 3 plug boots. I cleaned up the water, then pulled the boots out. Not a single drop of water got past the boots.

What I did was this:

1. Pulled the old wire out of the boot with needle nose pliers. Part of the insulation will still be in the boot.
2. Cut the boot open on the "short" side of the boot with a mini hack saw. This let me take the rest of the old wire insulation out.
3. I took a wire for my Duke and trimmed the lip off of the top of the boot with a pair of scissors. The stock 2.8 wires should work too. The important thing is the length of the wire and the shape of the spark plug boot.
4. Then I put the Duke wire on the spark plug and measured how deep it was in the whole. I cam up with 3 5/8" deeper into the hole.
5. Then I trimmed the Delphi boot back until there was 3 5/8" of boot that went beyond the seal. Then I slipped it over the wire just above the Duke wire's boot.
6. I pushed the whole thing down onto the spark plug. It make a solid contact and completely sealed.

I have a really crappy camera but I'll see if I can get some pictures later.

[This message has been edited by Doug85GT (edited 07-18-2008).]

Erik, yes I have driven it further than to work and back. I have an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge and it always has fuel pressure when it doesnt want to start. I changed the coils but left the module the same with the same results as before, sometimes it starts right after i shut it off sometimes not, ill check more into it today

Olaf,
Then I would squirt some starting fluid into the intake and see if it starts, if it does then you have most likley have an injector issue. If it doesn't start, do as Doug suggests and check for spark. It could be the module

here is a toruble shooting guide for the ignition ..disregard the camshaft sensor since you are not running one

quote Originally posted by olaf_fiero27: sometimes it starts right after i shut it off sometimes not

Sounds like it's the starter heating up. I had the same type of problem.
I replaced the starter and added a Cool-It Thermo Tech Starter Heat Shield Wrap THT 14150

and added a Moroso Standard GM Starter Heatshield MOR-74300

quote Originally posted by fourpoint9: Sounds like it's the starter heating up. I had the same type of problem. I replaced the starter and added a Cool-It Thermo Tech Starter Heat Shield Wrap THT 14150 and added a Moroso Standard GM Starter Heatshield MOR-74300

Olafs starter is working ..the engine just doesnt want to start while cranking sometimes due to either no fuel getting to it or something to do with the spark

There is a difference in harmonic balancers between the early 91-93 manual equipped engines and auto equipped
The one on the left is from a 91 Cutlass Supreme International 5 speed car and the one on the right is off of a 92 auto equipped 3.4 DOHC out of a Grand Prix.
Its thinner and lighter in weight and smaller in diameter

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 07-20-2008).]

That is good to know. Since my engine is off of an auto car, I guess I will be ordering one from a manual car.

edit:
Bad news. I checked Napa, Autozone and Kragen. Kragen was the only one that had a harmonic balancer and it was a Comp Cams one for $404!

http://www.partsamerica.com...MfrPartNumber=870022

I'll have to check with GM later.

2nd edit:

GM Parts Direct has one but it does not differentiate between auto and manual. It is also $113

http://www.trademotion.com/...1&displayCatalogid=0

[This message has been edited by Doug85GT (edited 07-20-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: That is good to know. Since my engine is off of an auto car, I guess I will be ordering one from a manual car. edit: Bad news. I checked Napa, Autozone and Kragen. Kragen was the only one that had a harmonic balancer and it was a Comp Cams one for $404! http://www.partsamerica.com...MfrPartNumber=870022 I'll have to check with GM later. 2nd edit: GM Parts Direct has one but it does not differentiate between auto and manual. It is also $113 [URL=http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214858&chapter=&Sectionids=10,0&groupid=10012&subgroupid=62097&componentid=0&make=28&model=Grand%20Prix&year=1992&graphicID=MWP037&callout=32&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0 ]http://www.trademotion.com/...1&displayCatalogid=0[/URL]

I doubt that you can get the smaller one nodays unless you get it off a used engine in a junkyard...I am still wondering why they made them different

A torque Converter is heavier than a Clutch, thus more twisting torque on the crank shaft. So you have to have more dampning absorption when you have more dynamic mass to steady. In slow motion, a Crank shaft actually twist due to the power stroke applied along the length of the shaft. The dampner have to absorb the shock/vibration applied to it. The Torque converter just adds to the momentum between fires.

anyone mount there coil packs near the strut tower or in the stock battery location?

quote Originally posted by olaf_fiero27: anyone mount there coil packs near the strut tower or in the stock battery location?

funny you should ask that..I have mine mounted on the front of the passenger side strut tower by the C500 connector and I just changed out my whole setup for a newer coilpak/module last night and my car runs better ..I had been having idle issues and some hesitation at times, intermitant stalling and not wanting to start again after shutting off ..I figure it was a module on its way out.


Olaf ..you should be able to unwrap your harness and move the DIS wires without much trouble..I left extra wiring in the circuit in case you decided to

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 07-20-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Erik: There is a difference in harmonic balancers between the early 91-93 manual equipped engines and auto equipped The one on the left is from a 91 Cutlass Supreme International 5 speed car and the one on the right is off of a 92 auto equipped 3.4 DOHC out of a Grand Prix. Its thinner and lighter in weight and smaller in diameter

Interesting! That's good to know. So the manual ones must have a different pulley also to account for the smaller offset, correct?

quote Originally posted by Steven Snyder: Interesting! That's good to know. So the manual ones must have a different pulley also to account for the smaller offset, correct?

nope, the level of the mounting surface is the same ..just can't see that in the picture so, the pullies are the same

here is a pic from the top

the nice thing about the smaller balancer is that it has less mass which helps the engine to rev faster ..I estimate just from feel that the smaller balancer weighs a couple of pounds less

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 07-21-2008).]

I just logged in to ad this....I baught a undersize pully on e-bay from a person. Turned out I got the wrong one. 91-93 has a different offset than 94-97. I had to make a pully but used some of the specs to match with. So I'm not sure if it is a manual/Auto specific issue or just a year issue.

quote Originally posted by procarnut: I just logged in to ad this....I baught a undersize pully on e-bay from a person. Turned out I got the wrong one. 91-93 has a different offset than 94-97. I had to make a pully but used some of the specs to match with. So I'm not sure if it is a manual/Auto specific issue or just a year issue.

I have a 96 engine and the pulley is the same as the 91-93

I finally grew some balls and started to tackle the wiring, with some assistance from other members of course. The problem arises that I have a 96 engien running a 95 computer and harness. I have a few plug that dont match up and/or are in different locations.

On the 95 harness, all the intake connectors look like they are on the injector harness, everything but the map sensor could be plugged in. Does the 95 harness even use the map? I have a plug that looks identical to the cam position sensor plug, with different wires, I can find all the pinouts for the c10X connectors though. it is close but no cigar on the fit in the map sensor. I pretty sure its not the cam posistion sensor. The cam position sensor is not on the injector harness, correct?


There is no plug on the harness that looks like it connects to the 96 egr, I assume OBDII has a different style degr valve, i suspect this wierd triangle plug is the 95 degr plug

I have the plug, 3 prong round, coming from the firewall/front side of the harness, no idea what it connects to, nothing fits.

The EVAP thingers, I have one plug that fits for the 96 parts, the 96 has a valve and a flow sensor, does the 95 have the flow sensor becuase i only have a connector for the valve?


Does anyone have the 94-95 pinouts lurking on thier comp, I have the ECM pinouts from Josh's wiring thread, but thats all.
Sorry for the monsterquest worthy photos, cant find my digicam, only have my cellphone
Dont worry, plenty more question to come.

EDIT: pictures would be nice to see.
------------------
1986GT 4-speed DOHC and 1987GT Auto

[This message has been edited by FieroWannaBe (edited 07-22-2008).]

First of all, the 96 motors are equipped with both MAF and MAP. Secondly, the 95 harness only supports MAF.

The first plug is for the Cam sensor, and yes it is supposed to run through the injector mini harness. It does not plug into the map.

The second three prong plug is for the 91-95 EGR, you were right.

The third cable looks like the intake air charge temp. plug, but I could be wrong.

The evap. question: you're right again, the previous year dohcs use a different switch, but the red pronged plug is the correct plug for the older setup. I have no idea whether you use the newer one. The older style did not have a flow sensor.


I have the pinouts, get me your email.

[This message has been edited by Emc209i (edited 07-22-2008).]

it would be awesome to get those pinouts, patond ( a t ) msoe . edu thnaks. thanks for all the info, I hope to get this all sorted out tomorrow so I can finish my wiring mess.

lol, I feel ya. You'll get it. I sent the pintouts.

so the first plug running through the injector harness is the cam position sensor, then the identical plug on the main harness is MAF, correct?
I'm still lost on the ghost three prong plug. It looks identical to the IAC plug, or identical to the TPS plug; one of the two. I don't remember right now. The plug is on the Main engine harness. Its not the IAT sensor, I have that on all set up and plugged in at the moment.

Does the 94-95 set up use two knock sensors? I have two sensors, with different plugs than my 95 harness has, and it has only one, plug on it, hould it have 2? I also hope these sensors are compatible.

Yes, the plug will be for MAF not MAP. The OBD 1.5 only uses a single O2.

Let me go see if I can find out where that ghost plug goes.

weird with the IAT, Im going to have to check again tomorrow to see, right now I have 3 sensors that are identical. or I unplugged the sensor and forgot.