Good Evening All

I have my 3.4 running but I have a hesitation when it is cold at about 2200 RPM. As I increase throttle the RPM's drop and it sounds like it will die. Further throttle and it somewhat recovers but still not right. After reaching operating temp this big hesitation goes away and there is a slight hesitation at 1500 R's. This sounds similar to LITLFRARI's (Spelling?) problem with the crank sensor polarity issue. Before I cut the wires I would like your opinions.
Thanks,

Larry

When I finished my 3.4 I had the wires on the crank position sensor reversed. My car had no power and would not rev over 5000 RPM. Is this what you are seeing?

Joe Sokol

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85 SE Daily driver with a 3.4 DOHC OBD II
88 Formula/GT 4.9 Allante Intake (My Baby)

Hi Joe
I have only driven it around the block once and seemed to have good power. When cold and the hesitation/pops/sputter is at its worst, I am afraid to try and rev to 5K. When warn it will go to at least 6K - brand new engine and I don't want to abuse it yet. There are no codes stored and my ECM scanner shows normal sensor inputs.
When you had the sensor wiring backwards did it get better when warm?

Thanks for the assistance.

Larry

Anyone had one of the crate engines apart? Wondering if anyone knew if the oil pump drive O-ring is the new one or the old? I need to swap the cam carrier anyway - going OBD 1.5 - and would probably pull the head and change the O-ring as well if it was the old one - but would prefer not to.

Thanks,

Mike

I need to delete the powersteering and ac any suggestions?

quote Originally posted by loudecuz: I need to delete the powersteering and ac any suggestions?

Here's one method of deleting the PS pump: http://www.dohcfiero.com/daveidler.htm

Nolan

I was wondering if this would work on a intake you would have 2 throttle bodies 1 large 1 small say the small around 1 1/2 inch diameter and the large 2 1/2 and you could have the big 1 open by vacuum like on a Holley carb so the small primary would keep flow velocity up and throttle response and torque do you think it would work

I'm finally the proud owner of a 3.4L DOHC Fiero. I've been wanting one and planning my own swap for many years, but saw one for sale locally last week. Picked it up on Wednesday and drove it home. Needs work but overall runs pretty good, and I got a pretty good deal on it. I believe it used to be owned my member Flames4me, I have a PM sent to him to find out more info about it. Not sure if he's around here much anymore though.

What are you guys doing for tachometers? I thought I remembered seeing someone (AaronZ34 perhaps?) with some speed hut gauges that went to 8k or something like that, but am having trouble finding it. I don't want an aftermarket gauge on top of my dash, I'd like a factory looking replacement inside the cluster somehow.

It's not the cleanest swap, but I plan to reroute some of the wiring and vacuum lines to clean it up a bit. I've also got a 96-97 intake set-up that will be going on, along with a set of reground cams from Steve Long Racing that will be going in before next summer. From what I can find by researching, this engine has been rebuilt, fully balanced, blueprinted, and bored .030 over. It's also got an underdrive pulley, and a hot air intake that will be changed.

Here's a pic of how it sits now:


Edit: Found Aaron's thread on his gauges, too bad he used photobucket:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...060811-2-069555.html

[This message has been edited by Silicoan86 (edited 12-11-2011).]

Sucks to be you.

Aaron posted on Real Fiero tech about an hour ago. I'm sure you could ask him there.

quote Originally posted by L67: Sucks to be you.

Uh... Why?

[This message has been edited by Silicoan86 (edited 12-11-2011).]

Silicoan86


Congrats on your new car. I love my 3.4 dohc.

Speaking of underdrive pullies, does anyone make them anymore for this engine?

Thanks
Nolan

I'd start with that water funneling intake. Main course of DOHC. Finished off with a course of poor fuel economy.

quote Originally posted by L67: I'd start with that water funneling intake. Main course of DOHC. Finished off with a course of poor fuel economy.

I'm not interested in hearing your bitter opinion on this engine. Please stop trying to ruin this thread and any other Dohc related threads for others. Unless you have something productive or useful to say, please stop bashing this thread. Thank you.

He's just bitter, ignore him.

With respect to the tach I have a VDO tach with 8000 RPM. The Tach fits into the stock location but you need to use a Dakota Digital SGI 8 unit to get the tach to read correctly.
http://www.dakotadigital.co...mode=prod/prd127.htm

Nolan

PS if you do want to sell your spare pulley please let me know.

Thanks

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 12-11-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Sourmug: He's just bitter, ignore him. With respect to the tach I have a VDO tach with 8000 RPM. The Tach fits into the stock location but you need to use a Dakota Digital SGI 8 unit to get the tach to read correctly. http://www.dakotadigital.co...mode=prod/prd127.htm Nolan PS if you do want to sell your spare pulley please let me know. Thanks

Thanks for the tip on the tachometer. I'm thinking I'm going to go speedhut, but still open to ideas at this point. Do you have any pics of yours?

I will certainly let you know if I do sell that pulley.

I can't wait for spring to come now, its going to be a long winter... This car is a blast to drive!

I myself just picked up a DOHC swapped Formula that was built a lomg while back by Forum member Wussy. The car has changed hands a few times here in Tx and both owners upgraded the car in some way. The car is an 88 Formula with DOHC/5 speed Getrag and is a AC delete car. The car runs but does need a few minor issues corrected and then some addional touches to make it just right. The PO added full Held Motorsports front tubular a-arms with coil overs along with rear Held KYB coilovers. I have only gor to drive the car a few miles cause of the weather and work. Plans are to get the minor issues fixed on the car then start looking into some other things that I am unsure about. After that I wanna look into some performance parts for the car such as custom intake, tuning, ect....will post some pictures tomorrow...


Also...while L67 might come across harsh he is a very smart individual that knows his shi*. He is the first person I PMed to ask questions about the swap.....

quote Originally posted by MstangsBware: I myself just picked up a DOHC swapped Formula that was built a lomg while back by Forum member Wussy. The car has changed hands a few times here in Tx and both owners upgraded the car in some way. The car is an 88 Formula with DOHC/5 speed Getrag and is a AC delete car. The car runs but does need a few minor issues corrected and then some addional touches to make it just right. The PO added full Held Motorsports front tubular a-arms with coil overs along with rear Held KYB coilovers. I have only gor to drive the car a few miles cause of the weather and work. Plans are to get the minor issues fixed on the car then start looking into some other things that I am unsure about. After that I wanna look into some performance parts for the car such as custom intake, tuning, ect....will post some pictures tomorrow... Also...while L67 might come across harsh he is a very smart individual that knows his shi*. He is the first person I PMed to ask questions about the swap.....

Nice find! The weather? In Texas? Come on, it'll be a frozen tundra up here for the next 3 months at least. I'll be a while till I can spend much time with mine on the road.

Until then, here is a nice custom intake that I've been thinking about using as a starting point myself. He really did his research when building it:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...110502-2-104156.html

And as for L67, I have no personal beef with him myself, I'm just tired of him bashing anyone and anything DOHC. I know he had a bad experience with his, but that was many years ago. I just wish he would move on already and enjoy his new motor.

quote Originally posted by Silicoan86: Thanks for the tip on the tachometer. I'm thinking I'm going to go speedhut, but still open to ideas at this point. Do you have any pics of yours? I will certainly let you know if I do sell that pulley. I can't wait for spring to come now, its going to be a long winter... This car is a blast to drive!

I'll try to get you a picture tonight.

Nolan

quote Originally posted by SKIDMARK:

I Hope after my restoration, my engine will look this good! WOW!

Also, the link to the intake swap is dead, anyone have a working one?


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1987 Fiero GT Road Racer. 1st documented 3.4TDC swap- built in 1994. 5MT Isuzu, Quaife prototype LSD, HT Tubular A-arms, Fully poly & Heim jointed suspension, Custom 3 way adjustible sway bars, HT Bump Steer kit, Koin's, 320# springs, GA brakes, ZEX N20 and more! Under full restoration.
Toyota Tacoma Double cab Prerunner SR5
KTM 250SX

[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 12-13-2011).]

quote Originally posted by BV MotorSports: Also, the link to the intake swap is dead, anyone have a working one?

You mean this one?

http://60degreev6.com/conte...ap-for-91-95-Engines

[This message has been edited by Silicoan86 (edited 12-13-2011).]

Silicoan86

Here's the picture that I promised.

Nolan

Thanks for the picture Nolan. I like it, it looks very close to stock and matches the rest of the gauges very well. I think if all the needles were red you would hardly be able to tell.

-Jon

It's not a perfect match but it works well enough for now.

Thanks
Nolan

quote Originally posted by Silicoan86: You mean this one? http://60degreev6.com/conte...ap-for-91-95-Engines

Thanks, + for you.

I was going through all my Fiero crap and came across a spare 3800sc t/b from a 2001 GTP. I have the all the parts (I think) for the 96 style intake, this L67 t/b is an upgrade for it?

^^^^ Anyone for the question above?

Not sure. I've seen people using a Northstar throttle body with an adapter. I assume the L67 throttle body is larger in diameter than the DOHC one?

[This message has been edited by Silicoan86 (edited 12-29-2011).]

I'd leave the correct answer, but BV might not agree with it, and have his big brother delete it. So I'll leave him his own understanding. Write your congressman if you have a problem with that. Of course, your congressman doesn't have the answer either.

Is satire appropriate? I for one find it amusing.

Satire can be appropriate, but you're just being a douchebag.

quote Originally posted by L67: I'd leave the correct answer, but BV might not agree with it, and have his big brother delete it. So I'll leave him his own understanding. Write your congressman if you have a problem with that. Of course, your congressman doesn't have the answer either. Is satire appropriate? I for one find it amusing.

You know what I do find appropriate? Your rep bar getting deeper and deeper in the red. Other than that, yet another great post by you, the PFF douchebag.

Can someone tell me what happens if I get a code 33 map sensor? It a 91 3.4L DOHC. Car starts and idles but really has no power, this is now the only code I have. The only thing I can think of now to make it run this poorly is cam timing??? ANY HELP APRECIATED

Check for a missing/leaking vacuum connection to the MAP sensor. If that doesn't fix it try replacing the MAP sensor.

Check for a missing ground on your MAP sensor wiring.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 01-03-2012).]

When I had that problem (idled but no power, would not go above about 25 mph!) it turned out that I had the two wires from the crank sensor on the side of the block to the ICM/coils crossed (I had extended them to reach). It kept throwing various codes, mainly 42. Swapped the wires and it ran like a champ. If you've extended those wires, it's something to consider, if not then just ignore me!

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Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

@lilf

You know I did that and it would not start at all! Swapped it back and it will start now. I will dbl check all those wires and get a new map sensor.

Thanks

How to oil prime a LQ1 create motor

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/122075.html

l------------------
Red 1988 GT 5 speed
Poly all around, Koni's & Lowered
LQ1 powered

[This message has been edited by CC Rider (edited 04-10-2012).]

Hi DOHC Experts

Just a couple of comments tonight. Yesterday I got to really drive the car for the first time, very happy with the power and long power band. Enormous improvement over the worn out Duke. Went to the Ca. Smog Referee for inspection of my installation. No comments from him about any of my custom (creative) methods. Just looked it over and put it on the mill for testing. It failed NOX at 25 MPH, I am surprised that was all that failed as it still misses/hesitates at about 2200 RPM when cold. Drove it a bit after the inspection and noticed a lot of torque steer at shifts and hard acceleration, could be a real problem on wet pavement. This is an 88 coupe with the Isuzu transaxle. Is this a normal situation?
About two blocks from home it died, I lost fuel pressure so I will be looking into that this weekend. The EGR is one I took from the bone yard and while looking at it this evening it seems that one pintle does not move when pushed. Also 2 of the solenoid coils measure about 25 ohms and the third only 12 ohms. Will install a new one and see what happens after getting the fuel problem solved. Can hear the pump, hopefully just a clogged filter. New pump and filter at the start of this project about 2 years ago and I just filled up with fuel also - figures.

Larry

I am pulling the engine out of mine. I just started tonight. She needs a clutch and all the vac lines replaced. I guess thats not too bad since it was swapped back in '94. I do plan on replacing the wiring harness if I can find a replacement. Its just too far gone to repair.

Hi Folks,
Fixed the fuel problem over the weekend, the rubber hose in the tank had split. It was a new rubber part in Sept. 2011. Must be our special California gasoline that ruins rubber parts if not used. Full fuel tanks sure are hard to handle under the car.
Also looked at the rear suspension for looseness and found I could wiggle the right rear wheel a small bit (toe in/out) so I tightened up the bolts some more. I have relatively new poly bushings and they are still in new condition.

More info after the new EGR is installed.
Larry

Hi Again,
After EGR replacement - one valve did not move at all, I went back toe the Referee for another inspection. Still failed with extremely high NOX at 15 MPH. I was beginning to think that my custom Y pipe was not allowing enough exhaust gas into the intake manifold, so today I disassembled the parts and tested for any restrictions. I found the EGR tube allows lots of exhaust to pass thru it, the EGR valves actuate properly and the EGR base plate is not obstructed. Next I started the car to check for vacuum at the EGR port and was amazed to NO vacuum at all. Now I know what is wrong, the upper intake manifold is clogged.
Not sure how to clean this out yet but I suppose I will have to remove it and soak it in cleaner. Perhaps a long flexible brush will assist in cleaning.

Is it common for the EGR port on the upper intake to clog?

thanks for listening,

Larry