I think we should be persuading Mr. Francis Truleo (<----I think thats right) to make short runner intakes and headers as he already has them for the 2.8 he's mentioned making them in the past.
If anyone made intakes I think they should make them to look like kolberns first composite intake IMO that looked the best.
That'd be great and all but good ole aaronZ34 opened his big mouth and talked Francis out of it already. Francis made a thread about doing a custom intake for the TDC here on this forum a while back. aaron bad mouthed the idea to death until he wasn't interested anymore.
------------------ " There was a lot of little kids there. I watched them flying, doing jumps, and having races. And I thought that all those little kids are going to grow up someday. And all those little kids are going to do the things we do. But for now, sledding is enough. I think it would be great if sledding were always enough, but it isn't." --the perks of being a wallflower by stephen chbosky
I was serious about building sets of headers and looking at supplies to do so. I just haven't had much time lately to mess with it. I have found the flange plates on ebay but I have a resource to build them myself now. The main thing that concers me is fitment between so many different mount techniques out there.
I finally got mine running and I love the sound and the power. Fortunatly no leaks in the welding or gaskets. If you saw the clips at the first of this thread you can hear it for yourself. If anyone decides to build their own headers, I will be more than happy to offer suggestions. I will say this when you weld the cones/tubes to the flanges...have them bolted down to a jig to keep them from warping. If not reheat them on a bar to square up again.
That'd be great and all but good ole aaronZ34 opened his big mouth and talked Francis out of it already. Francis made a thread about doing a custom intake for the TDC here on this forum a while back. aaron bad mouthed the idea to death until he wasn't interested anymore.
U think that he'd listen to 20+ other people vs listening to one guy "who happens to be banned" (dont kno why but you dont get banned for no reason)
lol yes so sorry RFT (Place is no good anyway, wouldn't want to steer you that way)
BACK TO THE 3.4 DOHC.
I'm going to be looking into how to build a more exotic exhaust system. I'm trying to find out how the new infinity's make the sound that they do. I believe the answer is going to come down to buying an expensive resonator rather than a muffler. I'll keep you guys posted.
Paul Haskins
I saw an infinity add where they talked about the money they put into exhaust tuning for perfect.... blah blah blah
but it was extremeley comlicated they showed it and it didnt look like there was a single section of pipe that was regular tubing it was all bulges and twists thoughought the system.
Personally, I really wanted to retain the stock "Fiero style" exhaust routing for one reason... The sound. Longer pipes make a different sound then shorter pipes. It makes more of a clean rumble then an angry rasp. Well, at least that's what I have come to the conclusion of. My first 3.4 DOHC swap was with a 96 engine, and I cut the lower part of the trunk out and made a curly 2.5" exhaust system. It sounded alright, but it was noisy, and It didn't sound like a V8 at idle
This time I want to have the dual outlets with the stock tips, (modified to accept 2.25"pipes each) a 2.5" catalytic converter, and some length, and I think the Fiero's layout is the correct answer to this equasion. But I still am facing a problem with that pipe under the engine. I was never a big fan of that, but If I can make the room (different mount?) I will do what I can to put heat shields in place to protect the mount and the oil pan from the heat. We shall see what I come up with...
The system I built follows the stock route 2 1/4 inch pipe all the way, shoulda used 2/ 1/2 maybe for the main part. Only problem I have found is changing the oil filter. Oil invariably goes all over the cat, pipe /cross member etc. Wipe it down before firing it up again ! Otherwise it is fine. The 2 1/4 inch pipe snakes nicely between the oil pan and cradle on the pas side. Took some doing but it's tucked away nicely under there. I hade to put a char chemistry insert in there to quieten it down. I have a cat and magnaflow muffler but it was waaay too loud. Now it's nice, Just nice cruzin pn the freeway, nice growl when you hit the gas.
My experience has been that the cat. conv. is a big pivot point in the sound. Since I don't have to have an emissions check here in NC anymore, I'm planning to bypass the cat altogether and get a free flowing mufler. Eliminating the cat seems to give a much more aggresive sound and higher revs while not empeeding the sound limits at idle.
As for the G35 Infinity. I've been doing some research. And yes 4-Mula, the answer to the absolutly AWESOME sound they make is the way the exhaust is setup; lots of size fluctuations and resonators. The sound I'm looking into is purely a personal preference though, I know that many people here enjoy the load American Muscle sound (as do I) but I like to open up the options. BTW the G35 is an amazing car!
just to clarify i wasnt saying it it sounded bad im sure it sounds awesome I was just saying that like jaguar infinity spends millions of dollars on sound alone.
Looking at what Iv'e got, I think a custom engine mount will be exactly what is going to make a 2.5" pipe fit through the opening. If I can cut the width of the mount in half, there will be plenty of room for the exhaust.
Originally posted by ltlfrari:The system I built follows the stock route 2 1/4 inch pipe all the way... The 2 1/4 inch pipe snakes nicely between the oil pan and cradle on the pas side. Took some doing but it's tucked away nicely under there.
Do you have any pictures of this configuration? I looked on your site and I didn't see any. Would this routing work on an 88?
I think the G35 sounds absolutely terrible. The sound has no guts. It's like someone scooped out all the midrange. Very hollow and weak. The 3.4 DOHC's natural sound is very throaty and strong. I don't think you'll be successful in replicating the G35 sound; the motor itself is the most important factor in determining the sound.. obviously the 3.4 DOHC is a lot different than the VQ35. Both of them without any exhaust system whatsoever will sound very different. That's not to say you can't make the 3.4 DOHC sound different than other people's swaps.. its just going to be easier to put a Nissan V6 in to get a similar sound than to make the 3.4 DOHC sound like it :-P. THe VQ35 was available with a transverse manual 6 speed in the Maxima for a little while... EDIT: apparently the VQ35 is still available in the Maxima with a 6-speed. It makes 265hp.
[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 12-06-2006).]
The engine I am putting in now is out of a 94 lumina euro 3.4. I am installing it with the 5 speed Fiero getrag which has a cusom arrangment of gears that belong behind a DOHC engine. I am also running the 94-95 ECM, which happens to be pre programmed with a "Manual transmission mode" built in! Just by changing one byte, it skips the Automatic stuff, and loads the manual program. Saves me a headache!
The engine I am pulling from the Fiero is actually already a 3.4... But it has those pesky pushrods. those are going bye bye. Both my Fiero's will be pushrod free.
You will hate those ratios, IMO. I currently run a 3400 SFI out of an 01 Impala with 3.77 2.19 1.38 1.03 .81 and HATE IT! The tires go up in smoke, 6150 RPM is reached in like 2 tenths of a second, the rev drop between 1-2 is too large (about as wide ratio as you can get) and first gear is only good to like 30mph, AND I HAVE A LOT LESS POWER THAN YOU WILL! You want the 3.50 first set, especially if you are adding power. Hell, the W-body cars with the 3.4 DOHC used a 3.44 first with the 3.61 final drive and even that is too short.
Ideally for most applications would be a first gear in the neighborhood of 3.0-3.25, which is unfortunately not something you are going to be able to find. The G6 trans swap guys are getting themselves into a world of performance hurt if they are swapping out the four speed with the 3.65 FDR.
You will hate those ratios, IMO. I currently run a 3400 SFI out of an 01 Impala with 3.77 2.19 1.38 1.03 .81 and HATE IT! The tires go up in smoke, 6150 RPM is reached in like 2 tenths of a second, the rev drop between 1-2 is too large (about as wide ratio as you can get) and first gear is only good to like 30mph, AND I HAVE A LOT LESS POWER THAN YOU WILL! You want the 3.50 first set, especially if you are adding power. Hell, the W-body cars with the 3.4 DOHC used a 3.44 first with the 3.61 final drive and even that is too short.
Ideally for most applications would be a first gear in the neighborhood of 3.0-3.25, which is unfortunately not something you are going to be able to find. The G6 trans swap guys are getting themselves into a world of performance hurt if they are swapping out the four speed with the 3.65 FDR.
Run a V6 four speed if you really wanna move.
So what's your antedote for this. What transmission are you recomending?
Do you have any pictures of this configuration? I looked on your site and I didn't see any. Would this routing work on an 88?
Don't know for an 88. Couldn't find an under car shot, these are the best I have. You can sorta see the way it goes. I've since put a flexible coupling in the down pipe so as to stop the joints cracking. Holding up so far.
I have had this transmission with my 3.4 Pushrod engine. It did suck. But Im hoping with a good set of tires and a higher RPM range, that this engine and transmission combo will work out, if not, then I'm definatly going back to the 3.50/ 2.05 first and second with the 3.61 diff. My Quad 4 has roughly the same gearing in first with the 3.50 and the 3.94 diff, and its just right for that engine. We'll see, obviously its unlikley that anyone has used this combo before. But I already know 4th is going to be perfect, it was excellent with the 3.4 Pushrod, which ran out at about 90-100. The 3.4 will be happy to continue pulling. This fourth is like a taller third.
You guys were talking exhausts. My first exhaust was loud. It was a simple cut the trunk, ubend to cat, u bend to Spintek, dual outs. Found out cat was blown out, replaced it and it was a lot better. The cat I got from Doug Chase was the shortest Magnaflow I could find, and I can say that I felt to diference befroe or after it was installed. It helps when you have an exhaust system that short to have something other than just the muffler there. I was really raspy through the mid range, and it was anoying. With the cat it was smooth all the way to the limiter, and it was a lot more mellow, and deeper at idle. Plus the fact that I got tired of the inside of my car smelling like exhaust when I would sit in traffic, and my friends complaining about being behind me at a light. Plus showing the people the car while it was running would darn near make your eyes water from the fumes.
If anything, install a Magnaflow resonator, and a muffler. I would install the cat. People say they hinder perofrmance, but I ran my car turboed with and witout the cat, and there was no difference, except in sound.
There isnt a single person who makes headers for these motors an by seeing all the people on 60* v6.com and here you could make huge money if somebody made a set.
I think we should be persuading Mr. Francis Truleo (<----I think thats right) to make short runner intakes and headers as he already has them for the 2.8 he's mentioned making them in the past.
If anyone made intakes I think they should make them to look like kolberns first composite intake IMO that looked the best.
so since the threads fallen to page 2 im bringing this back up for discussion
I noticed some wear on the intermediate shaft bearing. Apparently oil migrates from this bearing and there is some obviously significant bearing wear, probably from cold starts. However, there was absolutly NO wear on the intermediate shaft, thankfully. New bearings are nice, but hard to get! Boiled, new bearings, and painted, looking good, though you will probably never see the block anyway. Before: After: Soon as I am done cleaning the pistons, I think its about time to start to assemble the bottom end. It's a good start, but the cost of rebuilding the 3.4 DOHC has been staggeringly high. Adding the cost of the tools I purchaced just to do this project would probably give me a headache. I am glad I am practically done spending money on this swap. I just need another front manifold for a 91-95 engine, fuel lines, A throttle cable, some more paint, an engine mount to clear the exhaust. Think the rest is just labor and it's all done. Probably take me about a month to finish, don't hold me to that.
If you like to hear what headers and 3" exhaust sound like, tune into my thread on the first page.. 3.4l home made headers. Then afte that look at the clips of the test drive and idle below it. I like the way it turned out. I like glasspacks too but too noisey for my driving.
If you like to hear what headers and 3" exhaust sound like, tune into my thread on the first page.. 3.4l home made headers. Then afte that look at the clips of the test drive and idle below it. I like the way it turned out. I like glasspacks too but too noisey for my driving.
I don't see and hyperlinks or sound files wierd. I'll put that thread in the list. Nice work btw.
I did the same thing, went with a stock clutch because the cost of the swap was too high, and I hate myself to this day for it. The clutches would burst into pieces, leavingme stranded on three seperate occasions. If I add up all the time and towing that it took befroe I got fed up bit the bullet and bought the stage two (minimum I wuld use on ths motor) I proly would be able to do another swap. It really wasnt worht it even though I had a lifetime warranty on the clutch.
I really doubt ANYBODY can take it easy with that motor back there begging to be reved, and right when you start to love it, you downshift to hear it roar, and boom, clutch burnt up and exploded. The longest I had one last was about a month. Once I put in the Spec it has been worry free.
IT will hold up untill I can afford a spec. I'm pouring way to much money into the car getting it running. As long as you don't get wild with the car the stock fiero clutch should hold just fine. This means NO clutch drops and no WOT =no fun
But if you play nice yes a stock clutch should work just fine, it may not last long but it will work. I've gotten good at popping the tranny out so I'm going to hold out on the Spec untill later.
Edit:spelling
No it wont. Ive seen them die with regular nice driving. Thats bad advice telling anyone a stocker will last. They wont even last with a mild 3.4 pushrod much less the TDC. The specs dont cost much anyway. You can get them for under 300. Do it right the 1st time. Cutting corners never works out.
