Completely pipe dreaming here, but what about an integrated spoiler to address the fender cap issue? Since the rear corners appear to extend past the forward angled decklid surface, maybe you can leave the fender cap as is, and match a wrap around-ducktail spoiler to it. Could be 3 pc, or bond the sides to the fender caps later.
We actually have considered this & talked about it for a long time.
However, We really want to keep this an affordable upgrade that builders can build as is or tweek to make into their very own one of a kind design.
Since my post earlier today, We've determined that for the notchie body style we are going to have to design, build & pull new molds off of a totally new fender cap design. The GT fender cap, as pictured earlier in this thread, is just not going to look the way we want it to, so we're just going to have to reshape the GT fender caps into something that look better on the Notchie. Then pull new molds for teh fender caps on the notchie version.
The question of how to style the trailing edge of the fender caps to blend into the tail lights is still an issue that we are interested in hearing your ideas on.
Hey Archie, I really like the top "squared off" body line of Car-2-Lo's widebody. Would you be able to incorporate something similar to that for the notchie?? Just an idea.
Hey Archie, I really like the top "squared off" body line of Car-2-Lo's widebody. Would you be able to incorporate something similar to that for the notchie?? Just an idea.
Are you talking about that "shoulder" just below the GT 1/4 windows, above the gas cap extending back to the decklid outboard of the sail panel?
The question of how to style the trailing edge of the fender caps to blend into the tail lights is still an issue that we are interested in hearing your ideas on.
Archie
I really like the treatment for that area that was used on the orange "WidebodyGTR" with a little "grill" in the space (something that I sure would have to be custom made or cut from another part).
Although I could see it being filled in solid (not something that would probably look good on a light-colored car) or even just shaped & left open as a "vent"....
Yep! Gives it more definition......I think it's a cool line, and adds to the "widebody" look.
Yes we have something real similar on Curley's car & it is a variation that can be done with our widebody panels on the GT.
And it is a current topic here at the shop. However, if you compare the side view of a notchie to the side view of a GT, you'll notice how the rear fender rises as it goes above the gas cap door & onto the higher GT decklid. You'll also notice that the GT 1/4 window "flows" along that same path.
On the notchie, the bottom of the 1/4 window is straight. So the "shoulder" would have to go straight along the bottom of the 1/4 window then arc up very quickly above the gas door & onto the decklid.
The one reason we decided that we need a new mold for the fender cap on the notchie is that the gas door is too high in relation to the bottom of the 1/4 window to make a smooth flowing line like it does on the Gt version of the widebody kit.
In the pictures I posted yesterday of the right side of the notchie the GT WideBody fender caps would have worked just fine. However this morning as we started mocking up the Left side of the car we realized that the gas door would interfere with the lines we had established on the right side yesterday. And there's no easy easy transition from the line at the bottom of the notchie 1/4 window to the top of the notchie fender without having a "bubble" where the gas door has to be.
I hope that make sense.
Archie
[This message has been edited by Archie (edited 07-24-2007).]
The little grill is nice, if you have stock taillights, but if you are going aftermarket, I prefer the taillights moved out to the corners. This is a photoshop, but I believe the guy in Canada actually did his this way.
The little grill is nice, if you have stock taillights, but if you are going aftermarket, I prefer the taillights moved out to the corners. This is a photoshop, but I believe the guy in Canada actually did his this way.
I saw the Canadian build thread that you're referring to - and that was definitely a great way to work the taillights into the widebody - it certainly is a consideration for anyone going with the aftermarket taillights (but I believe the intention here is to design the widebody to best suit stock parts first - so as to not "require" any further expenditure on aftermarket items).
That's a tough one. We discussed this for a long time today. We are going to do something with it in the next 2 days, but we're open to suggestions. However I need the suggestions right away because we are doing this real soon.
Let's hear your suggestions.
Archie
If I were to build this kit, which I hope too one day... For the taillights, I would move each tail light out to match up to the newer wide body and fill in the middle area with a fiberglass cap, painted to match the tails. That is the only way I personally feel it will look right.
*edit* Oh, yea just like Jscott1 suggested
[This message has been edited by 8Ball (edited 07-24-2007).]
Originally posted by MinnGreenGT: I really like the treatment for that area that was used on the orange "WidebodyGTR" with a little "grill" in the space (something that I sure would have to be custom made or cut from another part).
Although I could see it being filled in solid (not something that would probably look good on a light-colored car) or even just shaped & left open as a "vent"....
I was going to post a reference to this as well but didn't want to be accused of trying to undermine what archie is attempting. The added door "fins" I guess you'd call them give the wide body treatment more of a finished look as opposed to looking like what he has going. I also much prefer the "grill" in the space you referred to, again, giving it a more completed appearance rather than something that looks like an after market throw together.
Edit to add that it's all in the details...
[This message has been edited by F-I-E-R-O (edited 07-25-2007).]
Originally posted by F-I-E-R-O: The added door "fins" I guess you'd call them give the wide body treatment more of a finished look as opposed to looking like what he has going.
What?.... You want it to look like a Testa Rossa????? I already have a set of T.R. molds. If I wanted to build a T.R. I's have built one.
quote
Originally posted by F-I-E-R-O: I also much prefer the "grill" in the space you referred to, again, giving it a more completed appearance rather than something that looks like an after market throw together.
Edit to add that it's all in the details...
Yes it's all in the details, go back to page #1 & read the details of exactly what our goals were for this kit.
We're not trying to build something that a 100% finished project. We're building something that the builder can tweek and build upon to his own tastes.
If you want side strakes in like a T.R., feel free to do that but I'm not putting in those kinds of details on the general kit. They would only increase the price of the kit while restricting the areas the owner can "tweek" in.
All we are trying to do here is to determine what people want the left & right rear corners of the body to look like out of the molds. Do they want a rounded corner like the stock notchie or do they want a vertical slash (like the GT version has) that they open up & put a vent into if they want?
I was going to post a reference to this as well but didn't want to be accused of trying to undermine what archie is attempting. The added door "fins" I guess you'd call them give the wide body treatment more of a finished look as opposed to looking like what he has going. I also much prefer the "grill" in the space you referred to, again, giving it a more completed appearance rather than something that looks like an after market throw together.
Just to clarify - I'm not talking about strakes on the doors... I'm talking about the little "grill" that fills the space between the edge of the widebody and the taillights (as Archie was asking about what we thought to do with that space). I'm actually quite satisfied with the clean body look without an added strake - not that it'd be difficult for someone to make & add one themselves.
Now Archie - I didn't know you had TR molds... I'll remember that - and someday come asking about them (it's one of my favorite Ferraris)
quote
Originally posted by Archie:
The question of how to style the trailing edge of the fender caps to blend into the tail lights is still an issue that we are interested in hearing your ideas on.
Archie
This is what I'm talking about!
[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 07-25-2007).]
1987 Fiero GT Automatic donor car 1G2PG1196HP228279 It’s a V-6 car but there is no question that the engine is bad & not rebuildable This car has 109K miles on it Cracked windshield No Wing Interior is in pretty good shape & has the stock Equalizer type radio Seats are good & it has power locks. Underneath the car looks ok, not a lot of rust due to what appears to be undercoating One of the drain plugs on floorboards is missing The trunk area has some rust with a few areas where it’s gone thru the sheet metal The tail lights appear to be in pretty good condition The brakes worked when it was driven here (with a loud engine knock) but they now drag a bit due to rust on rotors. The ¼ windows seen in the pictures are not included with the car.
The nice thing about this car is that we designed the body panels to be removable, you can remove the rear bumper, door panels, rocker panels & the rear clip. So you can either fix it up or you can pull the WideBody panels off of it & install them on your Fiero.
As I recall I gave ~$1200 for the car But it’s realistic value based on condition is about $700.00. As I’ve already mentioned the WideBody panels are $1950.00 We figure that installing the body panels for a customer in our shop will be about $2200.00 without paint.
The realistic value of this car right now is $4850.00, I’ll sell it as is for $4350.00.
All you photoshop guys out there, how about filling those wheel wells with some proper rims and tires, and maybe lowering it a couple inches. I think it would give everyone a glimpse at the finished product.
OK... but I took a few liberties myself. I love my wheels... so that's what you get (although I spared you a green - and the gold & white actually look pretty good!). I added a wing (moved back & possibly raised a touch) and a front lower air dam to further "balance" the widebody. Additionally I've shaved the front trim (as I don't think it flows well with trim up front and clean seams in back!
OK... but I took a few liberties myself. I love my wheels... so that's what you get (although I spared you a green - and the gold & white actually look pretty good!). I added a wing (moved back & possibly raised a touch) and a front lower air dam to further "balance" the widebody. Additionally I've shaved the front trim (as I don't think it flows well with trim up front and clean seams in back!
Okay, MinnGreen, you did the hard part, but I had to chop it!! (oh and also raise the wing a little bit more and add the wingtips)
[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 07-25-2007).]
Originally posted by jscott1: Okay, MinnGreen, you did the hard part, but I had to chop it!! (oh and also raise the wing a little bit more and add the wingtips)
Well after a few days of work, here's the basic style on the new fender caps we're going to make for the notchie version of the Curley Curves.
We like this style for the trailing end of the fender caps because it gives the builder options to "tweek" it the way he wants. He can leave it as is, or open up a vent in it or or glass it farther to wrap around to the tail lights like the original fender does.
Well after a few days of work, here's the basic style on the new fender caps we're going to make for the notchie version of the Curley Curves.
We like this style for the trailing end of the fender caps because it gives the builder options to "tweek" it the way he wants. He can leave it as is, or open up a vent in it or or glass it farther to wrap around to the tail lights like the original fender does.
Archie
IMO, thats the best look and best option. I'll be purchasing this style once Tony starts his transaction.
I've been asked about wheel sizes that would fit with the WideBody.
As many know, TroyBoy & Curley have been using HRE wheels on the widebody cars they've built over the last few years. It's widely known that HRE isn't real open to telling you exactly what off-sets they're using on certain wheels they've built. Many times they won't even tell their customers' exactly what some of the measurements are. When Troy's car & Curley's #20 were both here, I did some extensive measuring of the widths of the cars & the various wheels that were around here.
At first it was Curley's wheels that he sent here for use in sizing to determine what sizes it would take to porperly outfit Troy's car. Now the accumulated information is being applied to Leroy's car.
That being said, to the best of my knowledge the following information is correct. However, Once you order custom wheels, they're your wheels. So I'd advise that once you've done your own research, compare your information to ours to make your own wheel choices.
This new WideBody that we're doing for the back 2/3rds of the Fiero GT is 73.75" wide at the centerline of the rear wheel. The Stock Fiero Gt body is 68.375" wide. So the WideBody is 5.375" wider than stock, which is 2.69" wider per side.
According to the calculations I've made on the rear wheels for chopper #20 the Wheel is 11" wide & has a 11mm positive off-set. The car we are working on right now has 8" long Coil-Overs & there is plenty of clearance to the spring & perch.
Curley's car has 10" coil-overs & he has a lot less clearance to the spring (less than 1/2") with these same wheels.
As you can see Curley's wheel is about 3/8" inside the top of the rear wheel opening.
Troy's car has wheels that are 12" wide & has a 7mm positive offset & has an 8" coilover. In prevoius fittings Troy's wheels would not Curley's car because the rim touched the 10" coilovers.
IMHO, Troy's wheels would fit this WideBody with the wheel sticking out all the way to the upper lip of the wheel well opening & yet still clearing the 8" coil-over.
Note: this information is for '48 thru '87 Fieros only.
Okay, MinnGreen, you did the hard part, but I had to chop it!! (oh and also raise the wing a little bit more and add the wingtips)
The more I look at the more I like it. If you softened the boundry between the door and front fender with a smooth curve and changed the front to a more Sebring than Ferrari style opening I think that would be pure... wow?!
Looks great...I'm poor....I've got both fastback and notchie volunteers...and I really need to convince fiance from South America that a Fiero would look great in pink when she arrives since she said she wanted a pink car.
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Just to clarify - I'm not talking about strakes on the doors... I'm talking about the little "grill" that fills the space between the edge of the widebody and the taillights (as Archie was asking about what we thought to do with that space). I'm actually quite satisfied with the clean body look without an added strake - not that it'd be difficult for someone to make & add one themselves.
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