Discovered the door locks are worthless. That key does work on decklid. Adding new door locks to the list.
Welcome to the club. I had new locks installed on the doors and the vehicle was delivered to my house prior to the owner going out of business. That was the good news but I did not discover that the key did not fit the door locks until they accidentally locked closed when I was installing a new battery. New dew strips and a very tight window complicated the problem. If the inner door panels had not been off at the time I would never have gotten the doors unlocked.
Corrected the belt alignment on the 4.9. I've been battling this problem since I bought the car, come to find out, a spacer missing on the alternator was the problem all along. Unfortunely the mis-alignment caused an undue strain on the alternator bearings causing them to make way too much noise now. I dropped my spare alternator off at the shop for rebuilding on the way home. Hopefully the bearings don't fail on the current one between now and next week.
Put the fiero store exhaust tips on, one side anyway. Had to buy a 2 to 1 7/8 adaptor because the fiero store doesn't make the pipe size correct. first adaptor slipped on easy, second one is going to be a pain in the arse.
Also tried to change the radiator fan but I had another obstacle. The new fan has a raise area to slide into the fan blade where the original doesn't. Bought from Rockauto.com on close out maybe I will clean out the fan blade to slide it in.
[This message has been edited by LornesGT (edited 12-27-2013).]
Cursed it repeatedly. But did get the flywheel bolt threads chased (one was cross threaded) and cleaned AND drilled the last two bolt holes for the new 4.9L engine mounts.
I built a simple cradle using 2"x2"x1/8" steel tubing. It's only tacked and it needs a few gussets, braces and engine mounting points. The day after I built it, I found some 88 knuckles. So now I'm going to build mounts so I can utilize the 88 specific suspension components.
[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 01-05-2014).]
Last night I pulled the drivers side fender without ripping the bottom part. Got those two rivets out easily! Yay me! On to the passenger side later...
Put the Christmas decorations away to make room in the garage for the fiero to work on. Jacked up the front end and took off the wheels to get ready for the bushings, ball joints replacement. Put cover on it to protect it from my tendency to hit things. Tried to get area clear, organized and setup for the job.
Today I picked up a used AC Delco battery at a junkyard for the Fiero. First time I've had a battery in the car for the 2.5 months I've owned it. Drivers side headlight mechanism worked perfectly. Passenger side needed help. Must need new bushings. No biggie. I also picked up a x-over pipe for free, because the O2 sensor is literally rusted onto the fitting. I'm hoping it can be useable somehow. Mine is rusted badly.
Turned the key to on, and heard the fuel pump relay behind me do its thing, but didn't hear the whine of the fuel pump. As I was thinking, fuel pump is bad. Is this a good time to put on a in-line fuel pressure gauge?
Just received the new cradle bolts and flywheel bolts from the Fiero Store. Too cold in the garage to do any actual work...but at least I can stare at the bolts.
I made the instrument panel surround and gauge pod in CAD. I laser cut it out of 1/8" aluminum but I think I'll make another set in brushed stainless steel. I then installed some existing gauges that I had left over.
Originally posted by Lunatic: I made the instrument panel surround and gauge pod in CAD. I laser cut it out of 1/8" aluminum but I think I'll make another set in brushed stainless steel. I then installed some existing gauges that I had left over.
Saturday and Sunday I went to town on the overhaul of my Formula. I removed both rocker panels to remove both lower quarter panels in preparation for replacement with scoop ones, removed the trunk and the spoiler for repairs and paint, finally got the complete front and rear suspension removed and replaced with new bushings, ball joints, trailing arms, shocks, struts, and lowering springs, replaced the inner and outer tie rods as well as my steering bushing with Rodney's solid brass one, removed the gas tank to replace the fuel pump as preventive measure (never done to my knowledge) to find a pristine gas tank as well as pump. I still replaced it with the new AC/Delco one I had purchased and will be putting the old one up for sale as it looks perfect (no crud in the filter and ran perfect!). I removed the top end of the motor in anticipation of replacing the heads with rebuilt ones along with new sprint headers (figured I'd probably break some header bolts in the old ones and the valve seals would need to be replaced as well as the head gaskets while I'm in there). I also removed the entire exhaust for replacement with a new Ocelot System from the Fiero store. I fitted the new Archie battery relocation tray up front (by the way, the spare holder was signed and dated 11-22-87 from the factory on the underside of it!).
My poor baby is in pieces right now, but she is sure going to be rock solid once she's back together. I still have to replace the Oil Pan, Motor mounts with Rodney's solid poly, trans mounts as well, along with the dog bone. New EGR solenoid, EGR, EGR tube, ETC.... Lots of work to come and many nights out in the cold garage still to come. Can't wait for Spring!
Went out to the junkyard today and scored a great set of floor mats, 120 mph speedo gauge cluster (for some reason my GT has the 80) left-side GT engine vent, mint condition extra gauge surround and radio surround. Also scored a decent red '86 GT front bumper. Last but not least a R-side GT tail light to replace my busted one. I went ahead and grabbed the L-side tail light, it was busted, but I figured what the heck!
I went out there for the drivers side seat, got the front bolts out, but the seat rails will not budge. I really want to get that seat. Couldn't get to the back bolts. Any ideas how to get the rails to move so I can unbolt the seat? You can pull the lever it just won't budge!
I went out there for the drivers side seat, got the front bolts out, but the seat rails will not budge. I really want to get that seat. Couldn't get to the back bolts. Any ideas how to get the rails to move so I can unbolt the seat? You can pull the lever it just won't budge!
I was in a similar situation to yours. I wanted a seat that didn't budge. What worked for me was, I undid the front "seat bolts". (Not the ones that bolt the seat track to the floor but the ones that hold the seat track to the seat.) After those two were removed using a 1/4" drive ratchet and appropriate socket, I gained "a little" access to the crossover spring. They always break and therefore the seat adjuster doesn't do it's job. I swapped in a new spring and after a few minutes of persuading the stubborn seat, it moved. Access granted to the rear bolts.
Option 2. Bring a hacksaw and if you can get your arm in there, cut the track. Not pretty but it should get the job done.
Option 3. Adjust the seat back to the most forward position as possible. Try and rock the seat back and forth. That should fatigue the metal enough so that it breaks. You might have to locate another set of seat tracks but hey, you'll have your seat!
Note: Late model Cavalier seats fit as well. Just an option since they're more plentiful.
I hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 01-13-2014).]
Actually, I designed and laser cut a nice F23 front mount. Since I built my own cradle, it's designed to work with that. Pics to follow as I left it at work today.
On another note:
quote
HUUMMMM looks familiar GOOD JOB !!!!
Thanks Danyel. I read your "Black Widow" post. Damn, I have some catching up to do! I moved my speedo and tach up so as I can view them better.
Oops, I almost forgot. I picked up these 18" mystery wheels. If anyone can tell me the manufacturer, that would be great. I bought them missing the centre caps and there are no markings on them other the size and a DOT marking.
[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 01-13-2014).]
I was in a similar situation to yours. I wanted a seat that didn't budge. What worked for me was, I undid the front "seat bolts". (Not the ones that bolt the seat track to the floor but the ones that hold the seat track to the seat.) After those two were removed using a 1/4" drive ratchet and appropriate socket, I gained "a little" access to the crossover spring. They always break and therefore the seat adjuster doesn't do it's job. I swapped in a new spring and after a few minutes of persuading the stubborn seat, it moved. Access granted to the rear bolts.
Option 2. Bring a hacksaw and if you can get your arm in there, cut the track. Not pretty but it should get the job done.
Option 3. Adjust the seat back to the most forward position as possible. Try and rock the seat back and forth. That should fatigue the metal enough so that it breaks. You might have to locate another set of seat tracks but hey, you'll have your seat!
Note: Late model Cavalier seats fit as well. Just an option since they're more plentiful.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for the tips! I might go with option 1. I'll get practice on my seats, they're 10x worse than the seat at the junkyard. I'll have to find that spring first.
Another option is a mint set of Camaro seats at the yard as well. I know I'll need the tracks from the Fiero seat for them to work. I really want to get that seat and carpet because they're in really good shape, the rest of the car...not so much. :/
first adaptor slipped on easy, second one is going to be a pain in the arse. 
Tried to get area clear, organized and setup for the job.
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