i wire wheeled the block and exhaust manifold.i wiped the block and head down with rubbing alcohol.i set the head and gasket onto the block.i put some of the parts into the cleaning tank.
i torqued the 2.5 head down.i hate these 'new' torque to yield bolts.torque to 22 foot pounds and then turn two flats....I HATE THIS.i hope i got it right.if not i got a 3800 ready to go in.not the one you are thinking of though.
Replaced my clutch master and slave with Rodney aluminum units. Has an 84 master and 86 V6 style slave on the hybrid Muncie trans. Used his bleeder kits. Slave line was a real problem but finally got it. 60 k car with L67 swap and clutch has always been low and not felt good. It drives like a new car now and only adds to the swap experience. Rodney has done a great service for years for the Fiero community! Thanks !!!
[This message has been edited by larafan (edited 09-18-2024).]
Yesterday I finished installing a new alternator in my 1987 Fiero. It has been sitting in storage several years. Drove it yesterday and today. This is my 3rd Fiero I have had over the years. I wish I still had my 84 Fiero, it was my first and I drove it back in the 90s.
Today I jacked up the front of the Fiero and checked the front end. I am getting a wobble when I am driving so I wanted to see of there was a problem in the front end. Things are a tad sloppy but not enough to explain the vibration I am getting.
In summary, today I worked on my old Fiero. There is a lot to do on it. At least it now drives again!
i finally got my 1987 2.5 head reinstalled and that poorly designed quick heater hose connector wouldn't quit leaking.i looked everywhere online for an oring kit for it but found nothing.i couldn't even find it mentioned in the service manual.so my thought was to change it to a normal hose fitting and jury rig the hose.so i go to remove the fitting and it breaks right off.so i just ordered a new intake manifold gasket.
i removed the intake manifold again.i squirted whats left of the fitting with pb blaster.there was 3/16 of the fitting still sticking out.i tried a pipe wrench on it.it kept crushing.so i used a 3/4 drill bit to drill most of it away.it was aluminum.i took a chisel and tried to collapse it.the outer parts just broke off.i finally took a punch and collapsed it a bit at the time.its out but theres still metal remaining in the threads.i bought a hose fitting at autozone that should work if i can clean out the threads.i don't have a tap that big.
i put the thermostat back in.i drove about 50 miles around home.it didn't overheat anymore.the temp guage didn't jump around.it idled reasonably.i hooked the egr valve back up where the po plugged it.im cautiously optimistic.only downside is i smelled antifreeze when i turned the heat on.i just replaced the heater core last year.
Richard I am posting something completely separate even though it is somewhat same subject. Today I started building mounting brackets for my new vacuum pump for my brake booster. Vacuum pump you say, yes with my performance cam I can run low on vacuum so I am doing like GM does with camaros and corvettes and adding a brake booster vacuum pump in parallel to the engine Vacuum. I will post pictures when completed.
so I have it installed but not wired into the ignition yet but will run through a relay and fuse. There is a vacuum switch in the circuit to turn the pump on between 14 and 18 inches of vacuum. sleek
[This message has been edited by sleek fiero (edited 11-15-2024).]
I removed and straightened my clutch pedal today. I machined and installed new pivot pin and did the Rodney Dickman reinforcement. Also because of the aluminum pedal shaft I added a tab and bolted everything together . installed new pivot bushings and reinstalled. great day of accomplishment. sleek
