replaced my HO2 sensor cause the other one was toasted. the ecm saw no signal, so it dumped every bit of gas that walbro 255 and 3800 sc injectors could put out. sucked almost a whole tank in 7 miles.
------------------ 1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp to the wheels
Painted LH rear supension parts; held up "new" headlights to give me an idea of how they'll look and fit, test-fitted coolant overflow bottle for engine compartment (perfect fit, btw!) and measured seats for swap. The day is young yet!
Yesterday, swapped my old 14" Tech alloys for the 15" Diamond Spokes with new rubber and had the brake fluid changed.
Today, went for an early morning drive with a few like-minded people - interesting to compare the Moving Average speed with the Maximum Speed...
------------------ '85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
------------------ '85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
TVR Wish I could get one over here... they won't even let me import one
Back on topic, I looked at my Fiero and got a few more ideas for body work. It is sitting on jack stands waiting for the suspension bits I purchased from KEV to get here, once that is done I can take it for a drive and find out how the new 3500 does, may need to tweak the tuning a bit more but should be ok for now.
I took it easy today, as I haven't finished fettling the suspension yet. I've got new KYBs on the front, but need to do the poly bushes, finish off the adjustable coilovers for the back, and then get a proper alignment done. Ideally, I'll need to look at the problem with the front end lift over 100 mph before I'll be keen on taking it to the limit. I'd be keen on something subtle like venting the radiator area to the wheel wells rather than something obvious through the bonnet...
Why can't you import a TVR?
BTW - out of the 18 cars out this morning, 4 failed to make the cafe at the end - the Lambo (electrical fault), Sebring (snapped throttle cable - car is 10 months old...) the 4.3l pre-cat Griffith (blown manifold gasket), and the Chimera 400 (electrical problems causing mis-firing) - Looks like the ghost of Joe Lucas, aka the Prince of Darkness, was hanging around - anyone who has ever had a car with Lucas electrics will know what I mean
------------------ '85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, component speakers instead of the 4x10s, poly bushes on the cradle, swapped the 14" Tech alloys for 15" Diamond Spokes...
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
[This message has been edited by Madscanner (edited 08-31-2008).]
Removed the tierods, knuckles, a arms, motor mount, trans mounts, heat shileds, etc from my cradle and test fitted the rear poly bushings. This afternoon, I will remove the rubber bushings from the fron of the cradle and the A arms.
I replaced all the brake lines from the Master Cylinder to each caliper. The old ones were super rusty. I also replaced the shocks and struts, also rusty and totally shot.
I had rebuilt my distributor, so I needed to time the engine when I put the distributor back in. I had never worked on a 2.8L engine before I bought this ‘86 GT in March (as my other Fieros are Dukes), so everything/anything I’m doing on this engine is new to me.
Well, no matter what I did I couldn’t get the dog-gone engine timed properly. When I followed the proper procedure, the engine would stall at 10 degrees BTDC.
To make a LONG story short, it appears the outer hub of the harmonic balancer has spun on its rubber mount. Just my luck the FIRST time I ever try to time a 2.8L engine, the timing marks are all screwed up.
Anyway, just for now I've inscribed a new timing mark on the harmonic balancer. This mark really is at TDC. Once I did that, timing the engine was a piece of cake.
If anyone has a good used harmonic balancer in their stockpile of spare parts, please give me a shout!
i tightened up my loose header bolts, replaced the missing ones, replaced my OPSU with one that still didnt work like it should and realized my LR caliper has been leaking. got another LR caliber from bubbajuju.
------------------ 1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp to the wheels
Spent 50 bucks on degreaser and the pressure washer cleaning my trans, cradle and suspension parts. What a mess...... It's done now. I can start the rebuild...
Spent 50 bucks on degreaser and the pressure washer cleaning my trans, cradle and suspension parts. What a mess...... It's done now. I can start the rebuild...
i bet just seeing that all clean looks outstanding
------------------ 1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp to the wheels
Spent 50 bucks on degreaser and the pressure washer cleaning my trans, cradle and suspension parts. What a mess...... It's done now. I can start the rebuild...
I did all that....just to start removing the rust! It's worth it though, when you compare what was to what is.
Fortunately, No Rust! But lots of grease and dirt from rear main leak and trans leak. Tomorrow the cradle, knuckles and a arms are off to the bead blaster. I will powder coat the knuckles and por15 the cradle and arms.
Can't decide wether to paint the trans or not? After all, this will be the daily driver. I hate to put too much detail in it cause once it's back up and running, I doubt I'll give it much attention other than routine maintenance. I do like everything to be clean and neat though. Nieghbors are already asking if I will paint the calipers, clean up the wheel wells, etc. I really just want to get it back together so I can drive it but you never know!
Fortunately, No Rust! But lots of grease and dirt from rear main leak and trans leak. Tomorrow the cradle, knuckles and a arms are off to the bead blaster. I will powder coat the knuckles and por15 the cradle and arms.
Can't decide wether to paint the trans or not? After all, this will be the daily driver. I hate to put too much detail in it cause once it's back up and running, I doubt I'll give it much attention other than routine maintenance. I do like everything to be clean and neat though. Nieghbors are already asking if I will paint the calipers, clean up the wheel wells, etc. I really just want to get it back together so I can drive it but you never know!
The oil will come off of paint easier than it will bare metal. If it's already clean enough, it'll only take 5 min. to paint.
New O2 sensor, and oh guess what? Turns out the car has not had a thermostat for the last year, even though the PO told me he put one in. Never trust a redneck with a unique car. Hopefully this is the last Redneck Engineered cooling system tweak I will have to reverse. If I ever see that man again I swear he willnot be a happy person.
I finally got my Hobbyist Liscense plates in the mail today, they are now on my car. They are good for LIFE, I never have to pay registration again!
For you guys in who are wondering what the heck a hobbyist plate is, here in Wisconsin we have: Antique- Lifetime registration, for stock vehicles, one time fee, must be 50 years or older, NOT VALID during the month of January. Collectors- Lifetime registration, for stock vehicles, one time fee, must be 20 years or older, NOT VALID during the month of January. Hobbyist- Lifetime registration, For street modified vehicles, one time fee, must be 20 years or older, NOT VALID during the month of January.
In order to qualify for any of the above plates you must already have a regular Wisconsin registration(they want their yearly money from everyone), if your married you both must have one regular Wisconsin registration(If I register before marriage, my registrations are grandfathered). Pay attention here comes the loophole- since we also have collectors available for motorcycles, a regular motorcycle registration qualifies. Motorcycle registration is Bi-annually(every other year) and it's only $23(or $11.50 a year), unlike the $75 a year for the standard auto plate.
So you might be asking yourself, What does he do in January? Good question, me and my woman share her truck all winter, but if I had to the DMV has temp plates for the month of January for $36. If you are caught in Jan on the road without one the law will issue a citation for an unregistered vehicle. The down side is she wants me to share my Fiero all summer, which I guess is fair... grumble, grumble, grumble.
Split the 4 spd case and inspected for wear and tear. None noted. Will replace the axle seals, output shaft seal and reseal the case halves tonight.......
I pulled my 88GT out and put some gas in the car...first time since June, coming back from the Dells Run. $3.669/gallon today. Getting ready for a cruise in up in Titusville on Saturday as it looks like Hanna ig blowing east of the Florida penninsula.
ITo make a LONG story short, it appears the outer hub of the harmonic balancer has spun on its rubber mount. Just my luck the FIRST time I ever try to time a 2.8L engine, the timing marks are all screwed up.
Maybe you don't have a stock balancer on your car. Later ones have the timing marks in a different place.
Maybe you don't have a stock balancer on your car. Later ones have the timing marks in a different place.
That's possible I suppose, but I would've thought if that was the case that whomever replaced it would've also inscribed a TDC mark in the proper location (for a Fiero) before installing it. I've gone on the assumption that the outer ring of the balancer has spun on the inner hub, and I don't want this engine vibrating any more than necessary.
Here's a picture that JazzMan posted ages ago of the relationship between the keyway on the inner hub and the TDC timing mark for number 1 & 4 cylinders on the outer ring (at 9 o'clock). When I take my crank pulley off I guess I'll know for sure whether my balancer has spun or if it's simply a balancer for a non-Fiero 2.8 engine.
Anyway, I have a replacement harmonic balancer off a seized 2.8 coming from another PFF member. I love this forum!
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-04-2018).]
Fixed my battery gauge. It's been reading 18V since I got the car in Febuary and it was starting to annoy me! Simple really - just pulled off (carefully) the needle while the engine was running and pushed it back on at (my estimate) 14.2V.
Rev counter next --> I'm just waiting to get a 1Mohm variable resistance.
I had a code 44 (lean exhaust) to check out, so I did a number of things. I replaced the fuel filter (the car had been sitting for six years), adjusted the TPS sensor voltage at idle (was .89 instead of .55), and swapped out the O2 sensor from one of my Dukes (which hasn’t run for five years). The O2 sensor I took out of the GT is the one on the left. The one from the Duke that I used to replace it is on the right.
After doing the above procedures and clearing the codes, I went for a half-hour drive on the freeway. No check engine light, no codes. WOO HOO...
Can you guess what’s going on here?
I had a new heater core that was “suspect” (because of some shipping damage), so PFF member Watts suggested this little trick of using a bicycle inner tube to put some air pressure in the core and then checking for bubbles. Great idea, eh?
burned a new chip, popped the INJ 2 fuse multiple times, so it stays parked till daylight.
------------------ 1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor
TVR 
