Got my C6 exhaust tips welded on and finally installed my bumper reflectors. Now the rear looks finished off. Also picked up some packages from the post office. Tinted quarter windows. Hella 90mm headlight modules, Thanks Synthesis! Here is what else is happening down at Bridgetown Motorsports Replaceing all the fairing on a GSXR 1000. (Deer strike)
I am working on getting the new computer in and running. I have got some hurdles to overcome. My fuel pump isn't kicking on, so I have to figure that one out. Once that is sorted out, I will install the new manifold and throttle body.
[This message has been edited by Bridgetown (edited 03-10-2010).]
I haven't got around to weighing the car yet. The wether has not been the best lately. As soon as it is a little nicer I will get the car on the scales.
I got my seats because I saw yours. Plus when you posted how easy the install was I was sold on them. Can't wait to take the car for a drive with them.
Bridgetown if i were you i might also consider getting a set of these ! I think they would really set your car off. Whodeanie and Jimmy S (joint project) will soon be reproducing these rockers with the vent moved a bit further back.
I'm in talks with Whodeanie to get one of his rear bumpers. I'm still a bit unsure about the rockers. They look like they are a bit deeper then the stock ones. You have seen them in person, is this correct? If they are lower I'm not sure if I want to utilize them or not.
I got my seats because I saw yours. Plus when you posted how easy the install was I was sold on them. Can't wait to take the car for a drive with them.
Thanks
And yes, the install is really really simple. Convenient that the width of the rails lines up perfect!
Finally got around to weighing the car today. It was 1280kg with about 1/2 tank of fuel and me in the car. Convert that to pounds is 2822 lbs. So minus 165 lbs. for me, brings it to 2657 lbs. Not bad I think. Now I have got to find where I can lose 157 lbs from. Hmmm... any ideas?
I input the car info to a 1/4 mile calculator 2657 lbs 200 hp (dyno + 12%) says the car should run 14.6. Guess I'll have to find out how close that is.
May I ask why you chose to go with the 38mm offset for your front wheels rather then 48mm? I am asking because I am about to purchase the same wheels for my 88gt. Is the front suspension on the 88 that much different then the previous years, that it required the 38mm offset?
May I ask why you chose to go with the 38mm offset for your front wheels rather then 48mm? I am asking because I am about to purchase the same wheels for my 88gt. Is the front suspension on the 88 that much different then the previous years, that it required the 38mm offset?
BTW, love your Fiero...
Because he has an 86... Yes, the front end is that much different. The hubs are almost exactly 1 inch further out from the center of the car than the 84-87... just buy the 48mm offset front wheels already! LOL
Oh yeah... I freaking love this Fiero as well! Nice work!
[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 04-28-2010).]
I have done a couple of hour long cruises in the seats. So far nothing negative to report. I have a 2000+ KM road trip coming up at the end of August. I'll let you know how I fair. I am a skinny guy, I find these seats quite comfortable. Someone larger might not find them as good. Regardless, my wife hates them. They only feel comforatable when your arms are straight out holding the wheel. Sucks for the passenger, oh well, I still think they're cool.
Well, I have got the '7730 computer in and running now(except for the speedo). So the next step is to add some mods and get it tuned on the dyno. I have driven the car a bunch of times. I have noticed that the driveability has improved with the '7730, however, peak power feels about the same. I'll be adding the 65mm TB next. I have decided that I am going to sell the Equinox intake and stay with my '02 intake. Reason for this is I think that the next step is going to be boost and the intake I have is supposed to be better under boost. I have been working away from home for the last three months, so not much has been done on the car this summer. I am hoping to get a week or two soon to work on the car. Oh, and I broke my collar bone 5 weeks ago, that has put me behind schedule this summer.
Where did you hear that the 3x00 manifold is better for boost? Based on the design of the Equinox mani, I'd think it would distribute airflow more evenly. I haven't seen any tests either way, so take that for what it's worth. I'm staying with my 3100 plenum because it's 'custom' now, the neck was cut and rewelded to clear the passenger side strut tower. It's turned the 'right' way for a Fiero now, and that made much more room for my turbo on the other side. Which brings me to...
Boost? Sweet. I assume you mean turbo rather than SC. Where are you going to mount it? There are a few options, they all have their +'s and -'s. What are you doing for engine management? Code59 (modified Sy/Ty Code $58) works in the '730, and is the best option IMO. Stock 3400's put down decent power on low-ish boost, I'm sure that'll be a very fun ride.
Well, the problem with th Equinox manifold is also the fact it requires modifying my decklid to clear it. So I had thought of going to the 3500 manifold. Then I was informed that the 02+ 3400 is better for boost then the 3500. So, I guess, the 3400 mani is the best mani for boost (that will fit under the decklid).
I haven't figured out what I am going to use for programing yet. I was thinking TGP, but I'm not sure. I was hoping to convince someone to let me "borrow" a descent tune to get me started.
Turbo location, I was thinking in the area where my cruise module used to be. Looks like there will be enough room for all the plumbing, still not sure about the intercooler location yet.
Found some info on an intercooler location that I am thinking I will try to utilize on the new turbo setup. It is an intercooler from a 1G Talon/Eclipse. It looks like it fits in the quarter scoop area pretty well. It is small, but I am only running a max of 10psi. And I think that the added cooling of the forced air in that area and being removed from the engine bay will make up for the lack of size. I think that I will change the intake filter to the passenger side scoop to make room for the Intercooler on the drivers side. I also like that you can find the intercoolers for cheap at the autowreckers.
[This message has been edited by Bridgetown (edited 08-10-2010).]
I was going to use two of those in parallel, one on each side, for my TGP 3.1 until I decided on the Gen III top end. Now I'm going with a massive water/air setup.
Unfortunately there won't be much airflow at all in there. The pressure differential between opposing sides of the IC will probably not be great enough to make the IC efficient at all. This will cause it to heat soak rather quickly. On top of that, it barely flows well enough for the 190hp that the 1G DSM's made stock. With the ~350 hp you'll be making on 10psi, it will be a huge restriction, especially with the small inlet/outlet of the 1G IC (the 2G's are slightly bigger, but not by much).
I don't want to rain on your parade, but I have lots of experience with both the 1G and 2G intercoolers (almost identical), and even in the factory location with an opened up fascia inlet, they don't work well, even for a stock car on 11psi. My '96 Talon was barely able to make 2 or 3 quick WOT runs without the thing becoming fully heatsoaked (the inlet was nearly as hot as the outlet), unless it was around the freezing mark outside. Honestly, I would rather run without an IC on that setup than to use a single DSM IC, and I think it would be well worth looking into other options. Just trying to help.
Thanks man. I appreciate the advice. How about a larger intercooler placed between the front of the cradle and the firewall, down low? I have seen this before. You could build an airdam to direct the flow up through the cooler and mabey out the deck lid vents? Do you think it would be that big of deal to run without an intercooler on low boost? I am planning to upgrade the rad to help.
Actually I was going to suggest running a larger one down low where you mentioned but I ran out of time earlier. That's a better place because that area is designed for air to flow in that direction, from under the car into the engine bay and out of the decklid vents. With an airdam as you mentioned, the IC will be more efficient and I'd guess it would help bring back some of the engine bay cooling that you lose by putting it there (because it blocks some airflow). Overall, even that setup is a 50/50 compromise IMHO, because there still isn't much airflow down there, but it's been done on Fieros several times and people seem to have good luck with it, at least with the low-ish boost levels like you'll be seeing.
Unfortunately air/air IC's aren't great for Fieros because you just can't get much airflow from back there, and routing piping up to the front and back is very impractical at best. That's why most of the high-horsepower builds you see use huge water/air setups (among other reasons). For your purposes though, I think it'll be fine to put the largest one down there that you can fit, use an airdam, and possibly even a puller fan setup (that would help the IC and the engine bay temps a lot I'd think, especially in city driving).
I think some people on 60degreev6.com run 7-8psi non-intercooled on their 3400's and have no problems, but you'll have to verify to be sure. That sounds about right to me anyway.
If you install an extractor hood vent I don't think you'll need to upgrade the radiator at all. When you're not in boost or only boosting lightly at part throttle, the engine will run cooler still than most swaps out there (if it's working right), and when you're at WOT you'll quickly be going fast enough for the radiator to do its job, especially with a functional extractor. A lot of people here run a lot of hp with stock cooling systems.
Made some Ebay purchases lately. This is a new rear maifold that I will use. I am going to make a crossover connecting the front/rear manifolds to the turbo flange. Then run the wastegate off of the old exhaust exit. Like this. Then I picked up a new 2 Bar map sensor.
I wanted to add a hood vent to project GTS for both function and form. I don't really like most of the ones I have seen so far so I started looking at other cars to find some inspiration. The one I keep coming back to is the Aston Martin DBS. I really like the subtle but agressive look to the hood on this car. I am thinking of picking up another hood and try to do something like this.
Photoshopped this. Rather then being recessed like the Aston, It is more along the lines of the TRD Supra. I like that it is flush. I would add a structure underneath to direct air from the rad out the vent.
I like that flush mount style a lot. Some black mesh would go with the car nicely. This has definitely got to be one of my favorite build threads to follow, keep up the good work!
I also like the flush mount look on your car (though it'll have to be a bit further back than your photoshop), and it will be a lot easier than fabbing an inverted scoop. It will still be functional because of the substantial pressure delta between the radiator area under the hood and the low pressure area above that area of the hood. IMO all Fieros should have some kind of extractor there, the design just begs for one.
I love this build, your goals are the same as many of mine. Thanks for sharing!
[This message has been edited by ALLTRBO (edited 08-14-2010).]
Finally got some time to work on the car. Installed my tinted quarter windows. They fit OK, and yeah I broke the one good original one getting it off. Damn!
Also noticed that one of my brand new driving lights was violated by a passing road pebble. That's nice.
Got the rest of the windows tinted and gave her a good wash. I went 20% on the doors and 5% on the rear window. But I might as well gone 5% all the way around. The 20% looks just as dark as the 5% becuase it is such a small interior. We'll see how long I can go before the fuzz notice it. *fingers crossed*
Nice work!
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