A lot of the information and links contained in my thread are for my own use and reference as I progress on these projects, I welcome any contsructive feedback. Here are pics of the dirty mess when I first got the car back in April 2006, I found it on the side of the Hwy. in Norwood Ontario, It sat there for many years but the owner was asking too much. I gave him 1,800 cash, 124,000 km's. I think I was pretty generous but really wanted this car. I put a tow strap on it and just dragged it a few miles with the truck, brakes were locked up, it is a time capsule but very dirty and neglected
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 05-08-2011).]
The t-tops are like my first 86 GT. Fitted for the dealer before delivery but not really related to Pontiac. Only in 1988 did Pontiac give the T-Tops an RPO code and make them an official "factory" option. Factory meaning C&C still fitted them.
[This message has been edited by AusFiero (edited 01-22-2009).]
I took pics of the documents that were in behind the passenger seat, I don't think the P.O. ever cleaned out the car. note the date on the C&C install, April 6th 1987, delivered to dealer on April 7th 1987. I actually spoke with the P.O. back in 1991 about the car, I remember it well because he told me that he paid for the dealer option on a leased car. I thought it was an odd thing to do.
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 02-04-2010).]
Can you please do me a favor? On the T-top - what is the door date of manufacture? If you can also get them what is the date stamped on the overhead light and on the ECM?
I am starting up a 87 database and had already had this car loaded into it but the April date is out of line with how low the vin number is (202295). My 87 is 228196 and dates are all January of 87.
If you can tell me the dates on the other 87 I need that info also (vin 204303).
I'll check in the morning for that info. I have been working on the drivetrain all day. broke about 4 sockets a ratchet and I also broke 1/2 " drive Breaker bar. but the engine and transmission are free of the cradle as of today. I have a replacement cradle being sandblasted and powdercoated (yellow) right now. hopefully it will be ready tomorrow. I will post pics.
forgot to mention, the T-Top must have been intended for the kit because the car has No Air Conditioning. and it is a well equipped SE.
This is something else that I am trying to figure out. AC was standard on all trim levels for 87 from what I can tell from what documentation I have so far acquired. That same documentation says that the only trim level that had AC Delete was Level I for the base coupe. That would lead me to believe that for an SE to have AC Delete it would of had to have been a totally special ordered vehicle.
OK - I promise I'll stop trying to steal your thread :>
it's already dark tonight but I'll take better pic in daylight. here's T-Top. I'm not sure where there's a number on the interior light, could you elaborate ?
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 08-08-2009).]
To check the date on the overhead you will need to remove it. Since it is a C&C T-top you will find 4 small screws holding a cove over the original light cover. Remove that cover then pop out the two outside lens covers with a very small screw drive at one end. Under where the lens was you will see a screw. There are also screws at the tips of where the sun visors clip into the light. This should allow the light to drop down. Stamped on the very middle of the underside of the light will be a date.
Originally posted by ARKaiser: I am starting up a 87 database and had already had this car loaded into it but the April date is out of line with how low the vin number is (202295). My 87 is 228196 and dates are all January of 87.
87 Database? how far have you gotten with it? I got (had) four 87s. One was a donor car that's long gone now but I'm sure I have the vin number still
Hey Adam, I set aside items for you, I kept front crossmember, swaybar, hood release cable wiper motor, everthing but the horn, I forgot it. I'll take that cover off tomorrow for a look, the interior will be gutted very soon. just want to get the drivetrain back in order first. I'm waiting on many items. where's the brown guy?
Hey Adam, I set aside items for you, I kept front crossmember, swaybar, hood release cable wiper motor, everthing but the horn, I forgot it. I'll take that cover off tomorrow for a look, the interior will be gutted very soon. just want to get the drivetrain back in order first. I'm waiting on many items. where's the brown guy?
I just thought about the sway bar looking at that pic, good to put on the rear Horns might be on the section you brought to my place, I'll check for you tomorrow. We just got Ian's Fiero over there this afternoon, couple of times the car didn't want to go up any hills. I got to park my SE at his place, so he drove that back and put my truck up at my dad's place for a few days. Lots of room to take Ian's motor out now and fix what has to be fixed.
This is something else that I am trying to figure out. AC was standard on all trim levels for 87 from what I can tell from what documentation I have so far acquired. That same documentation says that the only trim level that had AC Delete was Level I for the base coupe. That would lead me to believe that for an SE to have AC Delete it would of had to have been a totally special ordered vehicle.
OK - I promise I'll stop trying to steal your thread :>
It is a very unusual combination. long list of RPO's. Muncie/Getrag, power windows, WS6 but no air. The top was fitted by Ontario Automotive Sunroof, they are located about 10 minutes away and phone number is the same as on my Cars and Concepts copy, I'm going to call them in near future and ask about Dave? Mick? and when they would have worked there or if O.A.S. has record for the install.
Here's pics, the stamping on the interior light is 20382949, the only number I can find, it does feel like it is stamped. or part number? I'm not sure of where the date is ? I took pics of interior light, underside. also added R.P.O. sticker. I never noticed the remanufactured service sticker, on the computer before, it doesn't look like the bolts were ever touched before. I'm glad I pulled this out because I found the bulb was frying the wire, I'll remove some pics after the info has been deciphered, I am curious to learn so I would appreciate feedback on info, I have gone through most of the RPO's
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 08-08-2009).]
Here's pics, the stamping on the interior light is 20382949, the only number I can find, it does feel like it is stamped. or part number? I'm not sure of where the date is ? I took pics of interior light, underside. also added R.P.O. sticker. I never noticed the remanufactured service sticker, on the computer before, it doesn't look like the bolts were ever touched before. I'm glad I pulled this out because I found the bulb was frying the wire, I'll remove some pics after the info has been deciphered, I am curious to learn so I would appreciate feedback on info, I have gone through most of the RPO's
Just to add, I was over looking at the part too, to the left of the part number was a circle with 12 points around it (months maybe) with the #5 in the middle pointing to 2 o'clock, so maybe Feb 5 19??
The date on the overhead looks to be an ink stamp. Mine is right in the middle by the center lights. Several people have told me theirs is faded out or smeared. I'm going to try and get a picture of mine today and will post it here... https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/075025.html
[This message has been edited by 87 REGISTRY (edited 03-19-2009).]
I have made a lot of progress on the car over the past couple months, despite weather. I broke a lot of sockets, extensions, bolts and ratchets but getting close to starting the car for first time in the three years since I've owned it. I tried to start it couple days ago, Neutral safety switch circuit is not opening and I did not hear fuel pump pressurize. I plugged an extra pump into the harness to see if it was a relay, the extra pump came on as soon as I turned the key. I just put five gallons into the tank and need to wrestle it out again. I will post some pics of my progress over the weekend.
I took apart the neutral safety switch, contacts were full of carbon and well worn from the friction created. cleaned up with a bit of degreaser and an old toothbrush, rinsed it off, added small touch of dielectric grease. works for now. I'll look keep my eye out for a better one. Fuel system is pressurized again, dropping in fresh battery in the morning.
I tried starting today, no luck. engine fired up on cold start injector, left side cylinders were getting fuel but right side was cold. getting spark. pulled upper intake, fuel injecters look more like acorn's. the autopsy continue's.
It's alive ! The "Beast of Burdon" is running finally, sigh! I still have a ton of work. I only ran it for 10 minutes on fresh oil to flush it out and drained it. ran good long enough to heat up the exhaust and get rid of all the WD-40. tomorrow work on rear suspension/brakes, shifter etc.
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 04-09-2010).]
Hey Rob, good to hear yours is finally running, can't say the same for my SE right now. Went over to the storage unit again today, little more re-organizing while my dad worked on his car. The SE was having issues and wouldn't start. We were using the battery with the dead cell in it, normally it works to get it running but not today. Went out and got another cheap Sure Start from crappy tire, put it in and nothing. Motor turns over fine, we got great spark but no gas. You can hear the pump kick in and it's always been loud so we know it's good. I figure that little piece of hose on connecting the pump to the main lines has burst. Going to get a pressure gauge hooked up just to see what we have. If we have pressure, then the regulator is shot. Least that's easier to get at the the fuel pump.
I put the 9" cross drilled rotors with carbomet pads on today, new steering stabilizer. I got the old left shock shock out, Koni's going in the front tomorrow, S.S. braided flex hoses.
Today I mounted the Fiero store 1" front sway bar, Prothane bracket/bushings, I took front rebar off so that I could wiggle a box end wrench onto the nut to hold while I bolted it from the bottom. tightened it up good and tight. the telescopic magnet was good to fish out all the debris and nuts, wrench etc. added the poly end links. Koni front shocks. new steering stabilizer. tomorrow I'm going to put on the front S.S. flex hoses. mount rear sway bar. I want to get back to working on the new interior.
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 02-04-2010).]
I have taken it out for a few small trips, mostly to pick up supplies. I set the front Koni's to full stiff and really like the firm feel and rears are at the second softest, much better than my auto fitted with the KYB's. I still need to put the bar on the rear, and Eibach's on the front.
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 05-08-2011).]
A couple of days ago I changed out the fan shroud, T-Top is a non a/c car and had the X shape fan support, I had the shroud from the '86 A/C car so I swapped it to allow the fan to pull a little more air. I tried the '86 fan but it was rubbing on the radiator. The base of the '86 fan is different, has taller base, different number of blades as well. I also put in a brand new fan motor, the original one worked when I first got the car going but quit soon after, I am not suprised it sat for 15 yrs. I also put the rear sway bar on, took it for another test drive, came back to bleed the very old and black fluid from the clutch. took it for another test run. Shifted nice and smooth with Rodney's ultimate Getrag shift kit, Hurst shifter, I had to put a new gear select bracket on it, cause I bent the original while wrestling the engine inside my portable garage in the winter. I am going to change out low temp fan switch and thermostat today, put on a new oil pressure switch.
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 02-11-2010).]
I'm still working on the interior, the original grey was so dirty and smelly. I am using tan interior from a non smoking parts car. I have a very nice pair of high quality, tan leather seats to go in when I am finished. I picked up a roll of tan ultra suede, 10 yrds. I am going to use it to recover my headliner and lower section of doors, lots to work with.
I picked up a pair of used Centerline Storm with BFG Drag radials 225/45/17 for the rear and just mounted new BFG KDW 205/40/17/XL's on the front, I still need to change out front springs/poly.
Thanks Ryan, I've read your threads about a dozen times, I really admire your creativity. I have an '87 automatic also, ( The Snake's Belly ) I've been stockpiling parts to build a Notchstar.
When I reinstalled the rear cradle bolts, I did not cut the frame rails to get the witch hat nuts out, I removed the rear rebar and reached inside the frame rail with a small die grinder, ground one side a bit turned it 180* then ground the other side, put my small vice grips on tight to hold it. When I re mounted it, I used extra wheel lug nuts with large washers from the top of the old struts. just put a box end 3/4" wrench on to keep them from turning. I wanted to torque them good and next time I won't need to worry about em. I'll be doing the same to my other car.
It has been a month since I posted. I bought a Steelman paint gun with a 1.3 tip @ 6.3 CFM, Bluepoint dual action sander. I've been reading some of the threads relating to painting. I really like House of colour Black with the red metal flake. I found a few items last week, a new Holley scoop for $10. E-brake cables brake caliper rebuild kits, performance camshafts, boxes and boxes of items, bought the lot. Ordered some 1/2" lowering ball joints from Rodney Dickman. I haven't had time to make it out to any of the Fiero events here in Southern Ontario yet this year but hoping to make atleast one.
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 07-18-2009).]