If i were you and the molds hold up, i might pull a second one,..just in case you somehow trash the first one at some point and all your hard work goes for naught.
The thought has crossed my mind... Bob
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 09-16-2012).]
Thank you so much for the link to the heat extractor installation. This headlight project is very interesting, when you get the forms done, it would be great if you made molds. I, and probably many Fiero folks would be interested in buying these conversion parts.
Thank you so much for the link to the heat extractor installation. This headlight project is very interesting, when you get the forms done, it would be great if you made molds. I, and probably many Fiero folks would be interested in buying these conversion parts.
Thanks Bob, and welcome to PFF. I have made the molds (page4) and I'm in the process of getting them ready for parts. It will probably be a while before that happens with the turn in seasons...
No, not really. The weather turned cold too fast, so I'm putting in an extra effort to get mechanicals finished. I've nearly completed a 13" brake conversion, working on an idle issue, and just secured an excellent condition frame rail for my passenger side. Lot's to do.
thanx for checking in, though...
Bob
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 11-30-2012).]
Unfortuneatly, nothing to report for the body, (looks like it's been nearly a year, too )
But, progress has been made. Two new/rebuilt frame rails were installed. The trunk is all metal again, with no holes. And, I'm almost done cleaning and repainting the inside/outside of the floor pans. I've also installed 13" rotors and larger calipers, and for the first time in years, actually got to drive it (albeit around the block).
The next thing to do is decide where this project is going, because I really want to do this:
Unfortuneatly, nothing to report for the body, (looks like it's been nearly a year, too )
But, progress has been made. Two new/rebuilt frame rails were installed. The trunk is all metal again, with no holes. And, I'm almost done cleaning and repainting the inside/outside of the floor pans. I've also installed 13" rotors and larger calipers, and for the first time in years, actually got to drive it (albeit around the block).
The next thing to do is decide where this project is going, because I really want to do this:
Time will tell...
Bob
That would be sweet! Waiting to see the continued build
Got some of the mechanicals done over the weekend. The car starts and runs smoothly again. I also brought home a couple of pieces from the kit to check out. It's gonna need a little work.
The driver's side rear quarter was broken, so I brought the quarter vent and door home to play with.
The quarter has up to 1/2" bondo where it was stuck to the chassis. A mix of screws were used to fasten it.
Damage from behind.
and outside...
Made room in the garage so I can bring the rest of the rear quarter home.
A bit of work on the driver's side fro sure but you will be flaring it out anyway so some simple patching to get it solid and then start pouring the expanding foam from there buddy.....
Wow, that left quarter looks a lot worse than in the CL add, do your doors roll out on top at the rear edge? Mine roll out bad, thinking of seeing what Don wants for a det of his.
The damage looked pretty bad here. I was thinking that maybe I should have asked Rob to make me a new fender:
Stitched back together. I used steel banding strips and self-tap screws to hold it together.
All glued back together:
Back of fender of the fender had damage, too. Here it is stitched back together. I did it different, by backing the fender with old fiberglass pieces and screwing it together.
Originally posted by RCR: Question for Mera, 308/328 clones and Stinger bodies: Does the hood normally sit so high above the rear fender line? No wonder the window gets small. I'm thinking of ways to drop the hood more even with the tops of the fenders. Thoughts? Am I nuts?
The angle of your deck lid doesn't look right, but yes, the deck lid does sit higher than the fender line. That's true even for the Fiero body though. I think it's an inescapable design issue simply because the Fiero's upper rear frame rails kick up quite a bit higher than the line created by the top of the door. On the Fiero (as with the 308 bodies), that difference in height is masked by the sail panels.
I don't think it needs to be all that high, but in so doing, it creates the "reversed chop top" look. For comparison's sake, there's only 5-1/2" of the rear window that shows above the deck lid on my Stinger kit. Maybe someone with a Mera or Mera clone will chime in with the same dimension on their car.
(edit to add third photo)
[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 04-14-2014).]
Bob, Found door handles with mods. Hopefully I can get them shipped out today. If not, it will be June.
Thanx Steve.
Made some dust today. Doing things a bit...different..
I'm kind of partial to the hood mods I started a while ago using Rockcrawl's vent. So, I started by peeling off the 308 skin from the hood beneath.
Then I proceeded to cut out the center. I want to mount it flush to the hood's uder support, without the Fiero skin in there. It will also make it lighter.
Then I removed the skin and started fitting it.
I've got some more crazy ideas floating around that I want to try.
Bob
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 04-17-2014).]
Question for Mera, 308/328 clones and Stinger bodies: Does the hood normally sit so high above the rear fender line?
Yes, it will be quite a bit higher. In this picture you can see the MERA offset hinge bracket that shifts the decklid mounting up almost the spacing of the holes.
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 04-18-2014).]
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