I think the straight lines of the hood on the other one fit the look better. Perhaps if you drew it from a different angle so see how it looks from a different perspective? the changes to the headlight doors look interesting.
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 04-18-2014).]
Hi Bob Looks like your well under way, wheels look great . Are you widening the suspension or using spacers with the offset?
Wayne
Hey Wayne... If I did my calculations correctly, the rears should come out to the current fender lips. The rears have a 25mm offset. I'm a little sketcher on the fronts. I balanced it between coming all the way out and maintaining the stock scrub radius, so I went with a 35mm offset. Eventually I will probably widen the fronts (and add power steering). I doubt I will do the back (at least I'm not thinking about it).
As for status, I'm kind of waiting on the SMC adhesive to glue the hood together.
Progress is slow at the moment, as I'm on Plan D for mounting the door skins. Not as trivial as I had hoped. I've got a ton of pics that I will post when I determine there won't be a Plan E.
Question for Mera, 308/328 clones and Stinger bodies: Does the hood normally sit so high above the rear fender line?
No wonder the window gets small. I'm thinking of ways to drop the hood more even with the tops of the fenders. Thoughts? Am I nuts?
Bob
[/QUOTE]
Hi, Personally I would leave the height of the decklid where it is. I think you will create more problems trying to lower it. I own Mera 8011. I will take an exact measurement of my my back window vertical height. I can tell you that the rear decklid is much higher than on the stock Fiero. Not quite half of the rear window is actually below the decklid. Visibility to the rear is not bad, although you might want to consider one of those back up camera rear view mirrors. Also does you passenger side louver have open slots allowing you to see thru it? Without this you will have a very large blind spot. My car has never been apart so I am enjoying seeing how the body work is fitted to the car. Great project!
The door skins have a flange at the back to mount similar to the factory Fiero. The front is open. My skins had some pieces of very dry rotted wood loosely fiberglassed into place that were screwed in front, but the fit was aweful so I tore it all out.
Now I'm having a problem in figuring out how to flange the front so I can attach it to the door similar to stock. I keep screwing up the Z-axis so that the skin doesn't line up with the fender. I'm on to Plan E now as last night left me a little frustrated and pi$$@#.
I have a long weekend to figure it out, though. It's actually pretty close...
The door fronts on my Stinger kit are open. It's not like anyone will ever see that though, nor does any dirt or air get blown in because the wheel well liner closes off the space in front of it. As long as the fiberglass door panel is thick or rigid enough to hold it's shape while being fastened from three sides, you should be OK to leave it as is.
The door fronts on my Stinger kit are open. It's not like anyone will ever see that though, nor does any dirt or air get blown in because the wheel well liner closes off the space in front of it. As long as the fiberglass door panel is thick or rigid enough to hold it's shape while being fastened from three sides, you should be OK to leave it as is.
I can't fasten it from three sides. There is no provision to mount the top of the skin either, so that leaves the back and bottom as the only fixed mounting locations.
It's a tough one, that other's have overcome. I just need to hit on the solution that works for me.
I see... then it would probably be easier to 'glass on a return flange along the top of the door to hang it like the stock panels... even if you had to rivet a new metal strip onto the top of the door frame to hang it on.
I see... then it would probably be easier to 'glass on a return flange along the top of the door to hang it like the stock panels... even if you had to rivet a new metal strip onto the top of the door frame to hang it on.
Haven't had too much success with that yet, but maybe third time's the charm.
These kits do have the rear deck set absurdly high, I plan on lowering mine as well, I see we're of the same mind on the nose, I want to take at least a couple of inches out of mine. You're work is looking good.
Hell the only progress I'm making at this time is on the Indy Hauler, once it's out of my hair, I need to replace the trans my Dakota R/T, then I can get on with the 308. The 308 does make a cameo appearance inby my current post on the Hauler.
I see a light at the end of the tunnel, oh carp, it's a train. Joe
[This message has been edited by motoracer838 (edited 05-24-2014).]
After I don't know how many iterations, I finally settled on a way to mount the door skins.
Ultimately, I set the location of the door jam so both sides (driver/passenger) were equal, then placed two 3/16" spacers on the jam to space the door out.
I then had to place the rocker panel to set the door z-axis across the bottom. (found out after "plan 5 failed").
I ended up making pockets in the front of the door skin to hold the stock Fiero fasteners. I'll bond these in place once I'm ready. Currently they are sprung into place with strips of aluminum.
I also redid the bottom mounts to better line up with the factory holes and to clean up the existing damage (the door skins were rubbing on the previous rockers.
'Nuf chat, here are the pics (if anyone needs a better explanation, please ask)...
Now I need to finish the rear mounts of the skin and start some of the panel repairs. I need to fill the mirror holes, the latch and lock holes, and some random holes.
I need to fill the mirror holes, the latch and lock holes, and some random holes.
I'd highly recommend keeping the factory lock / key mechanisms - you'll always have a reliable way to unlock the door . I've had too many keyless enrtry systems fail to unlock the door on occasion ...
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 06-14-2014).]
I want to get a lot of the body out of the way first. I want to get it in a state similar to Bozzie's. Once i can get a good look of the profile, then I will make that decision.
. I've had too many keyless enrtry systems fail to unlock the door on occasion ...
