Seats...Awefully tall. Don't know if I want to chop them up to get them in...
I'm 6' tall and I'm hitting my head on the outer skin of the roof. I think they need to drop 2 to 3". Might be real difficult. Gurney bump?
Cut holes in the rear fascia so I can run the car again.
Gives a real good idea on the height of the exhaust.
And, headlights part 4...(or 5?)... Taking a chapter from Carlo, I'm going to carve up the old hood to bond a box together to form the headlight cover and sides. Here's the top.
The I scrapped the boxes I bent and created a new faceplate. Here it's mounted to a fake cover used to place it properly in the opening.
Then, using some brackets, and some pieces from the old box, I welded up a new box.
Then with it in place, I welded up the new hinge pieces.
New light box. Much lighter than previous and more flexibility for adjustments. And, now includes the light mounts.
Great job on the headlights. Looking forward to see the finalization of the lifting mechanisms.
Boy, I don't know on the seats...those are great looking seats, and I'd hate to see you have to cut them down, but it does look like they could be a might high-backed for the Fiero interior. Will be watching to see what you come up with.
Glad to see somebody is able to peck at their project from time to time!
Not sure what happened. I probably screwed it up when I tried to fix it.
Anywho, thanx for being part of my review pose. And, for clarification Wayne, I'm using 60mm projectors, not 90.
Now, back to work. i still need to fab up the stops, and duplicate the mechanism for the pass side. Then finish grind, and paint, and make the boxes....and...
Bob
PS: no comments on the headlight motor driver tool??
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 09-06-2015).]
Originally posted by RCR: PS: no comments on the headlight motor driver tool??
If you mean the drill, I thought it was pretty clever, and wondered how much slower the drill motor turns than the HL motor.
If you mean the "fork" on the end of the drill....yea...I did also wonder if that was something you rigged up, or something that was "laying" around designed for a different purpose. AND that either way, it was also pretty ingenious to test things!
Clarification?
Ok, just checked the new link which does work now. I see it....that looks like something I'd do! A pair of needlenose.....right?
HAGO!
[This message has been edited by Sage (edited 09-06-2015).]
The link works for me now Bob, and yes I'll second Sages thoughts very ingenious on the testing motor and adapter!!! I'm looking forward to seeing the completed boxes. Wayne
ACK!!! Almost 4 months for an update. Where does time go? Not a lot has actually happened due to work. Things are slowing down and winter has been uber mild, so I've spent a little time cleaning up the garage. I also ordered some 1x1" steel tubing to start framing in the body panels and adding more support. I've also got some big plans for the rear deck. I spent some time staring at it and I think I know what I want. Now to figure it out the how.
Lastly, I ran into a stuck on the headlights. Anyone know how to fabricate stops for the motor? I need to limit the distance it runs. After staring at it for days and mocking something up, I'm still not sure how to do it.
Can't help you with the h/l motors, but I can appreciate your statement concerning not getting to work on the car. Progress on mine lately consists of looking into the enclosure it's in and verifying it's still there!
On a more positive note, Merry Christmas to you and yours too, and anybody checking out your thread.
Originally posted by RCR: Lastly, I ran into a stuck on the headlights. Anyone know how to fabricate stops for the motor? I need to limit the distance it runs. After staring at it for days and mocking something up, I'm still not sure how to do it.
Bob
I once toyed around with an idea for the 1st gen headlights. I don't know if the 2nd gen uses similar pressure type switches or not. When I rebuilt the 1st gen motors I realized that the threaded rod isn't fixed. It will actually pull to one end or the other depending upon direction of headlight travel. When it reached the end of physical travel for the headlight cage it would shift the shaft on one direction braking the contacts that currently keep it moving. For the other direction of travel it would do the same thing but with the contacts on the other side. I was going to try setting up a temporary block in the up travel direction to see if once it hit that block the threaded rod would shift under load from the stop and interrupt the contacts. I think, on 1st gen, that should be possible. Most people said just to build a shorter upper housing for the lights, which theoretically should do the same as above but in reverse. Since the flap is closer to the hood at full open, when closed it will hit the hood before it normally would on a taller housing causing the binding load and tripping the contacts. So, maybe just some limiting braces to reduce the total range of travel would work for you?
Lastly, I ran into a stuck on the headlights. Anyone know how to fabricate stops for the motor? I need to limit the distance it runs. After staring at it for days and mocking something up, I'm still not sure how to do it.
Merry Christmas everyone, til next time.
Bob
On the Gen II motors, the headlight assembly stops when the linkage maxes out to its farthest point or stops at its minimal point. The motors hit stall, the current rises, the module senses it and shuts off or turns on relays that control the motor to the headlight assembly.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I used the Fiero motors for my custom 355 and 308 headlights buckets. I made adjustable stops that mount on the Fiero headlight motor frames and extended stops on the bucket pivots to contact the stops on the frame.
Go to my build diary on madmechanics for the 308 and you will see how I did the stops on the pivot plates. They work great as the Fiero motors use a movable shaft that pushes on internal contacts to remove power when open/closed so when the worm gear tightens the bucket up against the stop, the shaft will move and disconnect the little contacts inside the motors.
There isn't any one stop position on these motors.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers Don
quote
Originally posted by RCR:
ACK!!! Almost 4 months for an update. Where does time go? Not a lot has actually happened due to work. Things are slowing down and winter has been uber mild, so I've spent a little time cleaning up the garage. I also ordered some 1x1" steel tubing to start framing in the body panels and adding more support. I've also got some big plans for the rear deck. I spent some time staring at it and I think I know what I want. Now to figure it out the how.
Lastly, I ran into a stuck on the headlights. Anyone know how to fabricate stops for the motor? I need to limit the distance it runs. After staring at it for days and mocking something up, I'm still not sure how to do it.
I used the Fiero motors for my custom 355 and 308 headlights buckets. I made adjustable stops that mount on the Fiero headlight motor frames and extended stops on the bucket pivots to contact the stops on the frame.
Go to my build diary on madmechanics for the 308 and you will see how I did the stops on the pivot plates. They work great as the Fiero motors use a movable shaft that pushes on internal contacts to remove power when open/closed so when the worm gear tightens the bucket up against the stop, the shaft will move and disconnect the little contacts inside the motors.
There isn't any one stop position on these motors.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers Don
Hi Don, Thanx for checking in. I've gone through your thread numerous times, but did not notice your stops. I'll be right over and check again.
Might make a trip to the salvage yard today. looking for obligatory Fiero stuff and some hinges. Hinges you ask?
Taking from the pages of our great fabrication brethren here at PFF, Bozzie and CarLo immediately come to mind, I got the disk cutter out and went crazy.
I never liked the look of the rear deck anyway, so I went with something more OE looking. Im going to hinge the rear deck on the "C"-pillar. And, I'm lowering the deck about 2.5" near the back window. Once everything was cut and layed in place, it confirmed my belief that the deck was way too high.
A few pics...
I've already started framing the hood with steel, but apparently I didn't grab my phone to get pics. More soon on that.
I also did some work on those pesky headlights. I now have functioning stops. New arw that mounts onto motor.
The mod required me to make a plate inwhich the stops could be mounted. The plate screws onto the side of the motor cradle.
Both stops mounted.
Two of them mounted to motor cradles.
Should get more pics after the weekend. Looks like it's going to be nice in the garage again.
Hi Bob Glad to see your back at it again!! I'm assuming that you will mold and attach a lighter new back deck to the modified fast back, in order to make it lighter? I like the design idea for the head light buckets! My project is still on hold while I finish the renos on my house should be finished next week, then up for sale. The market is hot in Victoria so should do well I hope, then find a house and acreage with a shop for me to start up my project again! Keep posting look forward to the updates.
Hey Wayne. Glad to see you're doing well, and thanx for checking in.
The headlights are something I'm tinkering with. I'm not sure if it's the direction I want go. I'm still noodling a few ideas.
As for the back deck...Things can change fast on this one. I have cut out the bottom layer and will be creating a new one that captures the tubing. As for the change...
I've decided against the stock 308 deck opening and will be glassing the c-pillars back on. I've found several issue with that style opening that I don't think I want to tackle. - The way it swings open, I need to swing up and forward above the roof to get any kind of opening. This is cause by the lowered deck. - I didn't think there was enough metal in the rear roof section to adequately support the "huge" deck. - Once hinged, I wouldn't be able to open the deck in the garage with the garage door up. Not enough clearance - and lastly, I still plan on adding the spoiler. That thing is heavy, and hanging off the end would require a lot of bracing.
So, I decided to do the reverse flip deck from the 288GTO. After having looked at it using the hinges I picked up (to do the forward flip) I think it's going to work out great. Ultimately, it should swing back and down across the tail lights. It should provide plenty of room and keep the weight of the spoiler right on the mounts.
I have to retweak most of the framework I did last week, but no biggie. It's almost done.
Have you opened it with the sail panel in place, it looks like you wont like the access.
Joe
I did. It's not as good as if the sail panels were not there, but it is better than (or as good as) flipping the deck forward, and much better than attaching the sail panels and flipping forward. I don't think it's possible, but I am going to at least look at attaching the sails and flipping it back.
Nice work Bob. Good choice on making the deck hinge to the back. I have a scale model 288, and that's how it opens, where the 308 hinges at the top/front.
I was kinda waiting to see how you handled the top/front mounted hinges, cause that's what I'm planning to do...operative word here is "planning".LOL
You keep pecking at it man, you provide me with immense inspiration! I need all I can get....
Looking forward to updates as they become available.
Thanx Sage. Looking forward to that build of yours.
As I mentioned, I wasn't happy with the motion, so I redid a a couple of things and it's much better now. I ended up re-positioning the frame into it's final location, then positioning the hinges around it.
Everything is still tacked, as I think I'll look for a hinge with more back swing, but in the meantime this will work. These hinges happen to be off of the front hood of a newer Charger.
Frame in place.
Tacked in.
Outside clearance.
Had to get rid of the broom. Strut tacked in. The strut is off a late model GM (Malibu) trunk.
And two struts.
The rear decklid lifts nice and easy and closes softly. The next question is, without the sail panels...
or with the sail panels...
And lastly, a new addition to the garage, courtesy of the MCAC. They were going to toss it out. Now it will be for fab and contain all my welding and grinding tools. It also serves as a place to put my SEMA stickers,
Not going to be my week ... I went to a local yard to pick some parts of an 88. It's gone. Crushed. Had good looking suspension, front and rear. Oh well..
It was time for an executive decision. Sail panels up?
or sail panels down?
During my wasted week off, I fixed a bag oring on the thermostat housing. This proved how nice it is to have the sail panels out of the way, but I think it looks kind of funny on the decklid.
So... I'm in the process of creating a frame for them. They will be mounted low, to the fenders, but removable.
I was working on fit, and gaps.
Unfortunately, I ran out of steel, so I moved to the next part. The trunk. For whatever reason, the original kit used a quasi GT style trunk, but even a GT would not have sealed and having an 84, that wasn't an option. So, I pulled up the trunk seal, using a heatgun to soften the 30 year old adhesive. I made up a cardboard template of the corner, something simialr to the GT trunk. Making sure the decklid was overlapping the edge.
Making sure the template worked on both sides, I cut out to pieces from 060 plate.
After a coat of zinc spray on the bottoms, I tacked them in.
The trunk seal fits right on. All I have to do is trim the ends to length and re-glue.
And a shot with the sail panel on.
Also, as a comparison, the original deck height.
and now
Much better.
'til later...
Bob
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 04-22-2016).]
Had to fix a crack in one of the sail panels. First glass of the season.
I worked on the framing for the other side.
I don't have pics yet, but I've also fiberglassed one of the openings in the sail panel and made the mounting tabs that will help attach the sail panels to the fender.
... I went to a local yard to pick some parts of an 88. It's gone. Crushed. Had good looking suspension, front and rear. Oh well..
