Well then take THIS: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymot...d-Sell-/300597443859 It's even in your back yard, but...is it a "real" Mera, or..... this is a good one for all our Mera detectives, I have already spotted a few things. Go at her boys.
Well then take THIS: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymot...d-Sell-/300597443859 It's even in your back yard, but...is it a "real" Mera, or..... this is a good one for all our Mera detectives, I have already spotted a few things. Go at her boys.
Well, it's an 86 so no, not a Mera. I'll just stop there.
Not so fast now, this could be a real early "mule," maybe even...MERA W - (earlier than X)
Yep, Dan you should add this beast to your collection, you could do "anything" to it without hurting its resale value, like say drop in a trans am motor?
[This message has been edited by Wayne Wm. Peterson (edited 09-12-2011).]
alright i got a few questions in to the Man over at FieroFocus concerning ordering just a copy of the Mera issue....seems they have a special for $7.50 +s/h a code reader and a issue of the mag....not sure if its the current issue, but one assumes. i also asked if a "New" Membership this month will get a Mera Issue as the First issue....i hope.
True; Paul put those in before selling me the car--I think they are Rodney's.The deck wouldn't stay up with the original struts--in fact I would like to know what struts, if any, Meras came with out of the factory. He also swapped out the the steering wheel for the three spoke. He did some leather seat repair also--replaced a panel. Expert repair--cannot detect the repaired panel.
OBTW, good find on the flash gallery!
quote
Originally posted by batousai666:
sorry boys...i have been playing in the yard and stuff.
Yeah, you have to do that before winter comes--next week ;-)
[This message has been edited by reholmes (edited 09-18-2011).]
Nice, obviously written for the non-Mera crowd. Appropriate. Pretty well covered for four pages of text and pics. Couple of typos.
Can I ask where the typos were?
quote
Originally posted by johnyrottin:
Can we order a copy of the Fiero Focus mag?
Yes you can order a copy through the Fiero Focus Store at www.fierofocus.com. You can either do a 1 year membership that would get you the current September/October (Mera Issue) the November/December Issue and the the 2012 full year for $25.00.
Or you can get a Fiero Code Reader and the current issue for $7.50 plus shipping.
quote
Originally posted by batousai666:
alright i got a few questions in to the Man over at FieroFocus concerning ordering just a copy of the Mera issue....seems they have a special for $7.50 +s/h a code reader and a issue of the mag....not sure if its the current issue, but one assumes. i also asked if a "New" Membership this month will get a Mera Issue as the First issue....i hope.
The code reader will come with the current issue (September/October). When the next issue comes out it will be sold with the November/December issue.
I will be posting all the images submitted for the Mera contest into the gallery above in the next few weeks.So check back early next month to see all the images.
If you have any questions please feel free to send me a question or to e-mail Paul Vargyas at paulvargyas@comcast.net he is NIFE's Membership director and answer any if not all your questions as well.
i got this from Paul, yesterday....with a little pot sweetener I am going for the membership, plus 3
quote
org from email-Paul V-
Yes, I always send a “current” copy of Fiero Focus with any order like this. As a matter of fact, I will have the picture of Focus changed on the code reader to the Mera issue.
Extra copies of the Mera issue would be $1.00 if ordered along with your membership. Ie, for $27.00 I would send you a total of 3 Mera issues with your membership package..
You can paypal direct to:
sales@fierofocus.com since we don’t have any way to add items to the “store” order.
We will be updating the info on the code reader and show the reverse side, plus how to research the codes you find in fierofocus.com, etc. in the next couple of days.
cool....now when you say a "submission gallery" are you talking tons O' pics?? i know i sent over 50 pics, no? thats awesome even in the half sence.......right on. gonna get me subscription today
big thanks to both Mike and Paul..."THANKS"...later
Daniel
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 09-19-2011).]
Where is the "MERA" plaque on the ones with one? Also, can you give me some ways to spot a real MERA? The reason I ask is because I think I have stumbled on a prototype. Pieces are formed too well for a kit car.
All of those questions have been answered in the thread along with the style and font of the letters. Can't remember which pages they all are on but there is tons of info as to how to determine if it is a real Mera, letters, nose badges for each year, etc. It is worth the evening to read through the wealth of info.
[This message has been edited by johnyrottin (edited 09-23-2011).]
Agree with John, this thread is probably the best source of photo documented information on Mera build techniques. Regarding the possibility of a prototype or unnumbered Mera, Dan is certainly the WFA in that area. Having said all that, if you submit pictures--especially ones that show build details--I'm sure you will get a wealth of responses.
------------------ Dick Mera #8046 1987 GT - T-boned (RIP)
All the pics I have on the subject have been posted on this thread. There are a couple "pretty sure" ways to tell a Mera: One is the small sticker on the right underside of the trunk lid with the Mera serial number, VIN, and the paint code. If you look closely at the one from my car, you can clearly see it's not the original--so is it fake?
Could be, there is really no way to know.
However, I have what may be the only document, other than that sticker, with both the VIN and the Mera Conversion (serial) number--Mera Condition of Sale and Warranty Authorization. Meras are generally not titled as Meras.
Other than those indicators, one must look for build details that might provide clues--they are pretty well documented in the previous 100+ pages.
Your search can be an exciting one--ask Dan ------------------ Dick Mera #8046 1987 GT - T-boned (RIP)
[This message has been edited by reholmes (edited 09-23-2011).]
It is a virtual plethora...bordering on a cornucopia...and only a few pages shy of a metric a.s.s.ton (which we all know is just slightly larger than an imperial a.s.s.ton)...
OI!!! WHAT DOES IT SOUND LIKE WHEN A ROD IS BAD OR BROKE......THROWN????!!!!!
I THINK I GOT A BROKEN ONE maybe a bearing?? its dead!!!
it made all this knocking noise with the revs up the motor in gear1,2,3. low on power and over reved to shift. i limped it home and it died in the driveway as i went from drive to reverse, oil light came on and blah. then the sound of dead battery. oil light was on all along while NOT under throttle. i did it, didnt i??? i broke the 2.8 I MEAN HAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
d
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 09-26-2011).]
OK fired it up barely to go halfway from turnaround to garage.....DIED!
started up again under much duress......in the rest of the way and died. lucky once again.
i see oppurtinuity in this......take the old 2.8 out and use it as a teaching tool for me to fix what is broken. hope i get a winter job in construction. 3-4 months of 6 10's and i get a professional swap done over the winter and go from there.
i have decided that i want Mera X to destroy......the 2.8 was nice, but that ride in that Lambo made me a Man!!
i want to be that guy that gets laughed at till they see me in the side window most the way down
i want the respect and the chance to show them its all about the ponies and driving ability....PERIOD! then tell the Mera story for the Finisher......PONTIAC, baby!!! the best.......Fiero in your face!!!
nothing major by any means.....i see the 3800 SC as a swap. 260 HP so its close to what the best Ferrari 308's were doing.
My fast Fiero is gonna be just that.....a Fiero. the Mera needs something but not to be smashed into a tree from tourque steering. so under 300 hp is the ticket in the Mera.
ultimately a swapped Twin Turbo Aldino is the dream.......thats the Fiero SuperCar i want
so between Katataks and AccusedX car that just sold Cheap.....i got my eyes out for the Corvette killer i dream of but Mera X is gonna be able to hold its own, by my own hand if necessary. ITS ON!! i kinda have been waiting for this, no??hahahaaa!!
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 09-26-2011).]
Hmmmmmm, are you sure this was an "accident" Dan? Most of us put oil, IN the car, not ON the driveway. Me thinks this is what's called a self fulfilling destiny
well had a friend of my brothers (soon to be best friend to me) look at the car. it started right up like nothing (after a long cool down) he said prolly a rod/bearing= BAD!!! so the 3.4 swap was discussed his topic. he said 240-260 hp is easy. we will see old TransAm engine should do (no, not my LT1 TA!well maybe)
but we were done looking at it and time for dinner,so shut off the light in the garage well, i forget to close the trunk and while i shut it in the dark...... a reflection from a window behind me, i saw a faint witness mark of an old emblem or badge or something. looked like 2.8 V6?? ring any bells??
finally, no kiddijng, i did at one time HAVE a 2.8 V6 emblem on Mera X.....yippie!! this car is still giving up its ghost!! and just in time for the holidaybooohaaaaaa!!!!!!
like Richard said above its been a Mera X Adventure, to say the least!!!! good times!!
now in the pic the 8 is inside the white lines and the V is above the black......awesome!!!!! kinda seals it no??
wait did i know this already?? time to review......later
d
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 09-26-2011).]
Dan, to get 240 to 260 hp out of a 3.4 PR will require lots of expensive engine work, and a good size turbo as well. A stock 3800 SC will make this kind of power easily. No it is not near as easy a swap, due to the wiring and cradle modifications. No it will not have that "Italianesque" 60 degreee V6 sound. But, the SC will move the car very quickly. (Just install a quiet muffler, or you may be accused of having too many beans for dinner.) A carbureted small block is an easier swap, and will give you a great muscle car sound with the right cam. Katataks V8/stick Fiero was a real hoot, but could get squirrly very easy due to the low rpm torque. If it were me, I would fix the T/A, throw a 150 shot of nitrous on it, and let it be the street killer. On the Mera, I really like the 3.4 PR, but mine is a 5-speed. If you stay auto, I would install a 4 speed auto with the 3.4.
Just my .02 cents.........
Also, the 3.4 has a much better oiling system than the 2.8. That could have been the cause of the failure on your motor. Either that, or you wound it a little too high, one too many times......
[This message has been edited by Rick 88 (edited 09-26-2011).]
thanks guys. i beat it to death over the summer......it was dumb but whats a guytodo??
ok riddle me this.....how much would a New off the shelf (no mile) 3.4 cost, roughly?? and where to look for it??
i got a few thousand to work with now, but i feel that half of that is engine, no?? i also want Pontiac Power.....TransAm perferably but that limits choice so i see the 3800 as the next step, albeit up in difficulty also
i need to source a motor.....basic. if i can find one here that has been massaged, Like someone we know (Rick) i would go with that.
but i see headers and truelo intakes in the mall and i wonder what thoes give to sweeten the pot?
so hard to focus on day 2 of this new outlook. i just wish i had gotten a color tour in first. oh well green is a color>
ok now first question......what year 3.4 is best for no pain install??? and can i use the Fiero 2.8 intake for the 3.4? you know so i can keep the Fiero engraved i got now.
i found 2 in my town high mile (to me) over 79,000 for $800-1100. damn does that mean New engines are $2000+??
outside of the HP increase i do dig the "0" mile appeal of long roadtrips with minimal worry for failure.
any of youse dudes know a good total install shop that i could consider?? i say shop for the fact that they got more to do than work on My car. this way i get it faster. with a warranty of sorts.
i understand that the price triplefolds and a winter job is key to that, but if i stay with the 3.4 i may be able to offsett the labor increase $$ wise and stay in or close (+/- $500) to my already fisted 2K.
bear with me fellas i have been quiet all summer and its about to change here real fast
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 09-27-2011).]
2.3.4 Engine Choices ◦Let’s get one thing clear from the start, as it confuses a lot of people new to this – the only engine you can use for this swap is from a 1993, 1994 or 1995 V6 Camaro or Firebird, GM part # 12363230. No, I can assure you there are no other choices – no other car made by GM ever used this engine, so don’t bother asking about it or searching for a substitute because there isn’t one. Period. Yes, there are lots of other 3.4 liter engines made by GM, and I am familiar with each and every one of them. Yes, they can be installed in a Fiero, but they are completely different from this one, they are substantially more difficult to install, and they are not compatible with this conversion. If you would like to see what else is involved, you may wish to take a look at my other site, dohcfiero.com. Stop asking me about it, because it makes me grumpy.
◦If you choose to get a new engine, the one you want is GM part number 12363230. I’ve seen it for around $1800 as of this writing. Ignore the warning about it not being compatible with a manual transmission, that’s for an S10 swap and it will work in your Fiero. You’ll also need to get the 17# injectors for the ’93-’95 Camaro/Firebird, which are the same part for a Chevy 305 (5.0) engine too. The injectors from a Ford “5.0″ (302ci) engine will also work, but since they are a 19# variety you will need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to use these. Otherwise your air/fuel mixture will be too rich and will foul your spark plugs, reduce fuel economy, increase exhaust emissions and may damage your catalytic converter.
◦If you choose to get a used engine, you’ll need to dig up a 93-95 V6 F-Body in your local junkyard. You will need to strip it all the way down to the longblock (heads, block and all internal mechanicals, including the balancer). Use of the oil pan will be discussed later. Remove and keep the fuel injectors from the 3.4′s fuel rail, as they are a 17# higher-flow type than the 15# ones on the 2.8. Be careful removing them from the rail and inspect the O-ring seals for re-use. The original Fiero fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail will work fine with these injectors. Everything else that may be included with the engine – flywheel/flexplate, intake plenum, intake manifold, fuel rail, water pump, timing cover, wiring harness, pulleys, modules, brackets, sensors, plug wires, etc. should be placed in a big box. You may be able to get a credit back from the recycler for these parts. Also remove the metal plug that blocks the distributor hole, and clip the wires from the crankshaft position sensor at the harmonic balancer on the 3.4. The Fiero ECM does not use this sensor, and it keeps the hole plugged in the block by leaving it installed.
These engines usually go for about $500-$800 depending on mileage and demand/availability. I paid $650 for my current engine, with 51k miles on it, and two others have paid $450 for 68k and 74k engines. The higher the mileage over 50k, the more you’ll want to consider replacing the cam and lifters while you’ve got the engine and pushrods out, since this will affect the “newness” feeling to the engine’s drivability and its longevity. An excellent deal is the Crane Compucam 2030 Series Cam/Lifter Kit, which you can get from any decent speed shop, or Jeg’s and Summit have it online for under $200. This cam is not a performance upgrade, however. For that the Crane H272 would be the better choice. Joe Wynman is also reputed to have a better custom grind for 3.4′s.
What is the Offset of the original rims? I've got spacers for the front and back of mine and it LOOKS amazing but drives like complete DOOKIE! I am trying to find replacement rims that will not require hubcentric spacers. Does anyone know? (this is starting to kill the pocket book and I can't drive my car.)
Ivan
[This message has been edited by Mera_Cop (edited 09-27-2011).]
What is the Offset of the original rims? I've got spacers for the front and back of mine and it LOOKS amazing but drives like complete DOOKIE! I am trying to find replacement rims that will not require hubcentric spacers. Does anyone know? (this is starting to kill the pocket book and I can't drive my car.)
Ivan
Ivan, how wide are the spacers you are running front and rear. On the rear it should make no difference, but on the front it may affect the steering feel. A lot of kit builders used spacers at both ends. The stock Chromadoras are 15X7 and I believe 35 offset. I run a 1 in spacer on the back wheels, and the car drives no different than without the spacer. If you want to fill the fenders you should look for wheels with lots of negative offset. I also run a set of 18's with the front being 7 in wide and rears at 8 in wide. If you want to spend the money, you could probably runs 8's in front and 10's in back, but the wheels would be costly. Can you post some before and after pics?
maybe a bearing?? its dead!!!
) 
A carbureted small block is an easier swap, and will give you a great muscle car sound with the right cam. Katataks V8/stick Fiero was a real hoot, but could get squirrly very easy due to the low rpm torque. If it were me, I would fix the T/A, throw a 150 shot of nitrous on it, and let it be the street killer. On the Mera, I really like the 3.4 PR, but mine is a 5-speed. If you stay auto, I would install a 4 speed auto with the 3.4.
