Thanks again Richard. Where are you going to drill the weep hole? From what I can see there is no "adjustment" for these bumpers unless you use shims of some kind.
its even worst than that............for all of us i think.
first off that foam bumper acts like a sponge!!! secondly, if i am doing/looking at it right. it seems that, that bottom bolt is thru bolted in a channel and i have to assume they used the same type of Nylox nut that was used on the top bolts. how to get a backer wrench on that is beyond me.
and that slot that Richard mentioned, is out of line for me....i cannot get a socket on it foor the angle of their cut. i even tried to "waller" it out. no go.......Pain in the ASS!!!! i wonder if they put the bumper on first then the body??
now how to fix.....the Bondo or some kind of high strength adheasive seems good but man, i barely got anything left.....
i cant speak for the PO's but I have only gotten caught in the rain twice in Mera X and i noticed it was still real wet back there after i washed it yesterday....so its not looking good for Mera car washers and rain drivers of Meras today....
while screwing around back there i broke a wire on my brake light harness.....gotta fix that now too.... boo hiss!!
d
*EDIT* least i got me pg 82........
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-28-2011).]
Perhaps you can purchase some square tubing that is slightly larger than what you have left and "sleeve" it over the existing tubing. How exactly does the tubing attach to the foam rear bumper anyway? Maybe this is another item Rodney needs to reproduce. Does anyone else still offer rear bumpers for these cars?
[This message has been edited by Rick 88 (edited 04-28-2011).]
Rick, to me it looks like they foamed the brackets in first then installed the whole thing to the car. i do not see any fasteners in there. but the rust looks to be rotting in layers, so maybe they used a telescopic self straightener tube system and then glued then togeather. Male on the car Female in the bumper....
maybe this pic will help explain that theroy
what you guys think. its a tight pain back there and i have small hands.....the hard part is getting the bloody thing off. if that were easier we could encapsulate the front of the faom and be done with it. maybe soaking the whole foam face with that POS/Lubricant would keep the water out.....i dunno.
d
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-28-2011).]
...... but the rust looks to be rotting in layers, so maybe they used a telescopic self straightener tube system and then glued then togeather. Male on the car Female in the bumper....
EUREKA!!! THATS THE TICKET, MATES!! new male brackets and Ricks new/unrotted tube idea in the bumper.....if not already the case and glue em solid. now if i can get the rest of the bloody thing off......
d
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-28-2011).]
Thanks again Richard. Where are you going to drill the weep hole? From what I can see there is no "adjustment" for these bumpers unless you use shims of some kind.
Given that huge access slot cut in the underside of the bumper, I don't think there's any need for further weep relief.
The way the bumper bracket is designed, it doesn't appear to be any adjustment downward is possible. Guess you could adjust it "up" with shims, but that would cause a misalignment of the lower mounting bolt--which I don't have ;-)
I do not know of a water seal for the foam. I would be careful what you apply to it. Some foams tend to dissolve when sprayed with paint or other sealants. Maybe you can try to remove the rotted tubing by using a hacksaw blade and carefully saw around the tubing to remove it from the bumper. I am now wondering if a plastic square tubing might be a better replacement. These bumpers are purely decorative anyway, and the plastic would not rot out. Just my uneducated opinion...........
Perhaps you can purchase some square tubing that is slightly larger than what you have left and "sleeve" it over the existing tubing. How exactly does the tubing attach to the foam rear bumper anyway? Maybe this is another item Rodney needs to reproduce. Does anyone else still offer rear bumpers for these cars?
Inside the existing tubing--don't mess with whatever bond may be left between the foam and the rusty struts. Anything you do should be considered a temporary fix 'till you can get a replacement.
Tom Matsumoto,
Is the bumper from #8045 usable?
[This message has been edited by reholmes (edited 04-28-2011).]
I do not know of a water seal for the foam. I would be careful what you apply to it. Some foams tend to dissolve when sprayed with paint or other sealants. Maybe you can try to remove the rotted tubing by using a hacksaw blade and carefully saw around the tubing to remove it from the bumper. I am now wondering if a plastic square tubing might be a better replacement. These bumpers are purely decorative anyway, and the plastic would not rot out. Just my uneducated opinion...........
"uneducated", my butt...... its a great call. undersize solid plastic square stock glued inside my rusted, car mount tube (male) side and fill void in my bumpers, rusted out spot with glue (bondo may be easier to work with) and then use what rusty square tube is left in the bumper (female end) to finish. granted it is still a Problem....but unless we address the foam/sponge issue, even washing the cars is enough to worry.....i have to re-assess the rust i do have now....it looks bad back there. like a daily driver in MI bad....
in hindsight i remember Rodney mention that he sprayed that "superlube" all over back there and i did not put "2 and 2 togeather" till now.....damn. oh well its not like it could rust that bad in 2 years, right??
Daniel
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-28-2011).]
The way the bumper bracket is designed, it doesn't appear to be any adjustment downward is possible. Guess you could adjust it "up" with shims, but that would cause a misalignment of the lower mounting bolt--which I don't have ;-)
i tried that...... even wrapped a sock around the wood i used ....es no good.
i guess i could drill the head off and be like Richard....maybe drill and tap at the top, another fastener or two. heck i got some monster self tapper zip screws....this might work.
thanks for the Idea Richard
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-28-2011).]
Can you still get in touch with Mera 7? If he has the molds for the rear bumper he can make a fiberglass replacement with no foam to go bad. If he can give us an affordable price I am sure he could sell a few. You might try contacting Jimmy's Automotive. He used to make 308 kit parts too.
actually i have not talked to him in a while.......
and speaking of Mera7......BOOM!! Mera #7071
notice the flat plates.so this confirms that the bumpers are installed as a unit at the 4 bolt locations. but i cannot see how to get the tools in there. the backer wrench mainly. guess i need a longer 1/2 inch. a swivel socket may work on the bolt but dont have one.....
could it be possible they put the bumper on first then the rear clip??
more tommarrow....gotta fix me tail light....... Daniel
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-28-2011).]
I have clear access to both bolts (if I had both bolts)
New subject--the hood corner alignment problem. Not a problem, when the weather gets hot, the hood reforms and pulls the corners down against the stops. Yeah, I knew you wouldn't believe it, so here are the pics:
My guess is there is a difference in coefficient of expansion between the hood skin and the sub-structure that it is attached to. Any better answers?
[This message has been edited by reholmes (edited 04-28-2011).]
Mine does exactly the same thing. I agree with your hypothesis. Now while it is warm I am going to try the "Rodney fix" to see if I can control the hood's cold weather antics.
Originally posted by reholmes: New subject--the hood corner alignment problem. Not a problem, when the weather gets hot, the hood reforms and pulls the corners down against the stops. Yeah, I knew you wouldn't believe it, so here are the pics:
My guess is there is a difference in coefficient of expansion between the hood skin and the sub-structure that it is attached to. Any better answers?
now do you 2 feel that maybe your Mera Skin over has seperated from the Fiero hood??
to me, in your cases it seems that both the hoods are warping in the high heat days and cold desert nights or is it just the Mera hood??
do you have a good bond here? mine is sealed all the way around. i dont know...its weird with you desert dwellers
maybe you need to re-glue your mera hood to the Fiero one....the high heat may have seperated them in side??
wait!! is that what Richard just said?? Doh!! remember, i am the daft one here....but i did fix my tail lights!! ........for me!!
d
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-29-2011).]
I checked my hood and the outer skin is firmly attached to the original hood everywhere I looked. Since Richards, Rodney's (before he fixed it), and my hood all exhibit the same issues, I believe it is an issue with the hood construction.
Glad to see you bumper back where it belongs. I took a close look at my bumpers and they do not show the rust I have seen on yours. They are made out of the same foam material, which to me proves once again, your car is a real Mera.
[This message has been edited by Rick 88 (edited 04-29-2011).]
Glad to see you bumper back where it belongs. I took a close look at my bumpers and they do not show the rust I have seen on yours. They are made out of the same foam material, which to me proves once again, your car is a real Mera.
yeah and a Michigan Mera at that with all the damn rust i see.... i got issues in my strut towers where the springs in the rear are. is that the right term?? its starting to worry me a little....i have been driving Mera X not looking under there for the most part.....
wonder if its been stored outside in its life?? thats a line of inquiry for me to investigate.
see the front looks fine but that rear seems like another, totally different car......for the rust i see.
more to come
Daniel
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-30-2011).]
so Rick could the problem be in the Fiero hood?? like the top (Mera skin) is getting too hot (almost melting) but the inner core Fiero hood is not so much....like a cold pocket? how to explain?? i am sure your cars are in garages for the most part so i cant see how the whole (both) hood moves that much.....i want to bring Mera X out there to see if it would do the same for experimental reasons only......hahahaaaaaa.....and maybe a few pictures i am curious to see if when "up"/"cold" if you take it out into the sun if it wouldsit down.....your flex point seems to be more center/lower than the ends, right??
since we all get cold if not colder....then I have too assume that its the extreme heat you guys have....Rodney's, i am not sure seeing that he is up here, but it could be a "1988" thing too.....maybe? cost cutting in the end....like when did CC know they were Bust?? you think they would cheapen the construct a little to save $$?? just thinking out loud here....
another idea i had with the bumpers, was to scrape some of the old foam out of the Bumper if i ever get it off and refill with some of that "GreatStuff" insulater foam. thats water proof aint it?? or, and this is a big OR for what Rick pointed out with the spraypaint.... ...to encapsulate the face with spray glue/adheasive....the stuff thats like rubber cement. i.e... rubber=waterproof but the solvents in it may "eat" the OEM foam like Rick mentioned.
somethings got to be done while showing a friend my delima i noticed that it is STILL wet back there in the foam.....sucks.
i have been driving, so i thought with the wind and heat off the engine it would be dry by now.....maybe i hit a puddle but i just washed it and it still looks clean.....so i am at a loss...
what to do??
d
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-30-2011).]
Just an idea for you guys with the bumper foam issue, you can try Duplicolor's undercoating. It is rubberized and seals any surface. You just have to be sure that the foam is dried out completely, otherwise you will seal IN the moisture. You can apply this in very light coats at first and let it dry. Then apply heavier coats so the layers eat into eachother rather than soften the foam beneath.
I have used rubberized undercoating in the past on the inside of door panels with great success. I used it for a sound deadner and it worked very well. Dan make sure your bumper is completley dry if you do this. If not the moisture could be trapped and cause the bumper to swell in the heat, and possibly crack.
good advice from both of you....thanks IMSA GT!! good lookin out
i was checking that out at the local tractor supply when i went to find taillight replacements no luck....hope i dont have to look at Ferrari Replacements???
i guess my cheap ass needs to go get a socket swivel....ohhh man!! i have to get that off.....and fix it right.
thanks again guys.....
d
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 04-30-2011).]
Here is the Mera story of the day. I drove the Mera to my friend katatak's home. I wanted to take a look at another 3800 SC swap being done, and also see what mods he was doing to his 350 bumperpad notchie. On they way I was passed by a group of "crotch rockets" out for a ride. Every single one of them had to turn and look as they passed, and four of them gave me the .
After checking everything out, I was on my way back home when my wife called. She had stopped by the school where she is a Math Coach to do a few things. Since we would be close to one of our favorite burger joints "Roscoe's" she hinted she was hungry. So I changed direction, and parked the Mera behind her CTS right in front of the school. The school where she works is one of the oldest schools in the area. The street that runs in front of it is four lane and carries most of traffic for the area, which is primarily residential.
As we left to go to lunch a late model 4 door Mazda 3 came to a complete stop on the street right next to me. The driver waived for me to lower the window. When I did, he told me that he had seen me drive by his home close by. "Its not often we have a Ferrari drive by." "I told my wife it was a Ferrari and she said no, it was an MR2." "I have driven by your car three times, and sent her pictures from my phone. We made a bet, and now I am going to collect."
Well, I told him, "It's not an MR2, but neither is it a Ferrari." "It's a Pontiac Mera." "No way, I know what a Ferrari looks like!"
Anyway, after a quick explanation about the car he said: "Damn, now I owe my wife a trip to the beauty salon and a manicure." "Your car sure fooled me, I really like it." So I told him, "Your still off the hook, it's not an MR2 either!" He replied: "You're right, and it definitely is closer to a Ferrari than a MR2 so technically I win."
"Good luck with that" I said and headed off to Roscoe's. It is an old hole in the wall that is well know here in El Paso We parked both cars on the street, and went inside to eat. The place is small and open so you can hear most of the converstations. While we were enjoying our food, numerous comments were being made about the "Ferrari" out front. When we were leaving some people were taking pictures by it. As I approached one person said. "Nice car, when I win the lottery I am going to buy one of these." I smiled, and my wife rolled her eyes. "I've got this gorgeous CTS (her car really is good looking) and everyone looks at your old Fiero."
OK guys, my turn to take up a little bit of space with pics..... First my hood problem as most MERA owners are aware. Notice how high the tip sits.
Next - my new letters that I bought on e-bay. Not sure I like them. Oh well only $3 each.
Closeup of letters JUST PLACES ON for now. The more I look at them the more I hate them.
The original emblems with black edging repainted. Ignore the two-way tape. Not too shabby eh?
My rearview mirrors are the smaller manual type. I still have the originals but they are in rough shape.
Other mirror
Nose emblem with a corner of the plastic cover chipped off. grrrrrr
Canadian front license plate laws suck!
Mr. Mikes custom seats in midnight gray/light gray and MERA 8071 embroidery. SWEET!
Nothing like a clean set of Cromodora rims.
"MERA in Paradise" inspired fix for the hole left when I removed the remote mirror switch. Notice the leather shifter and my "gotta-have" cup holder. Also the Nardi leather steering wheel.
Finally a rear shot showing the oval exhaust tips. Raise your hand if you have a license plate with your build code.
Rick, your Wife's reaction is priceless.... thats funny!
so the other lady thought your #8011 was a MR2-308 kit or just a stock lookin MR2??
you ever figure out what kind of HP you are getting out of your swap?? that may be another positive attribute, for you....."almost as fast as a real Ferrari!!" one day i will be too..... you guys all know i always flip-flop with the swap ?? but if my 2.8 breaks i will HAVE to do something your 3.4L swap has inspired me to stay stock look but find the right combo for 210-220 HP. turbo, Nitrous, something. that way i stay out the trees and off the guardrails and retain the "stock look" but then again if i start to work again you know.....
good read Rick, thanks
d
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 05-01-2011).]
Your Mera letters aren't really that bad--you might try some black paint on the chamfered and vertical surfaces. Carefully!
My hood badge is a bit different:
i like Julians M-E-R-A too for a new rear badge....if you wanna sell them let me know. maybe another Mera Meet and Greet on the EastSide is in order. i can get ahold of the other MI Meras i know and see if something can be arranged, what you say Julian??
and now that cool lookin emblem, Richard..... is that in a Metal frame?? do tell....it looks like the Ferrari Badge on X when i got it. with a Mera sticker??
need more info.
remember this??
[This message has been edited by batousai666 (edited 05-01-2011).]
I am in need of a MERA nose badge now and the rear deckllid " M E R A "
Good luck Johnnyrottin. You'll have as good a chance as the USA finding and killing Osama.... wait, let me rephrase that....You'll have as much luck as no conspiracy theory arising from the killing of Osama. What I'm saying is, you may be better off looking in reproductions unless you plan on spending the big bucks. You can go find a mid 80's Chrysler Lebaron GTS for the "GTS" badge. And I think it's the GM cars of the mid 80's that sported the "2.8V6" badge. Try the Pontiac 6000, Phoenix or Skylark. There are guys in this thread that are making the nose badge and door latch reproduction. I been missing one wheel center for 11 years and I just can't justify $100 like some Bozo was asking. Rodney made some stickers but I still need to find who can cover them in the thick weather protecting clear plastic. As for the 4 letters that make up the name MERA, I found a font that I thought was close but when I got them I was a bit dissapointed putting them side by side. Scroll up a few photos. Best of luck....hey BTW does Osama get his 10 virgins or is that only if he committed suicide? Hope he gets 10 mother-in-laws too! Great day for the USA and the rest of the world.
Here is another Mera to look at. This is in Oklahoma City and is priced too high in my opinion. If I wanted $12 k for a vehicle, I would clean it up a bit. nevertheless, here are the pictures and I think that it is on Craigs List. I have an e-mail address if anyone wants to contact the owner directly.
The VIN is 1G2PE1197JP206383 and this is now a confirmed Mera (#8019).
Nelson
I bought this car last month. Thanks God the pics are worse than the actual condition. I have put about 8 hours into just cleaning and surveying the good, bad and really ugly. Everything works with the exception of the temp gauge and the ac needs charging. The best part is that I only paid 1/3 of the price you quoted on here so I feel pretty good about a original 54k mile car for $4000. Even funnier is that the guy I bought it from was cousins with my ex (small world). He let it sit in a driveway for 3 years without moving it. He had the clutch replaced as well as the struts and shocks just before I bought it. It has a small exhaust leak but no oil or fluids. I am missing all of the badging and the spare tire. It was originally red with tan interior but it looks like a teenager got ahold of it at some time. Any and all help restoring this little girl would be a great help. Leads as to original badging would be even better. Thanks,
Ivan
[This message has been edited by Mera_Cop (edited 05-02-2011).]
If you want to try a different letter style, the letters on the new camaro are nice. You would have to fab the E from the remaining letters but it could be done easily. My nose emblem is like Richards but is showing its age. Tom (Mera in Paridise) makes some great metal Mera badges for the front of these cars. I plan to attach mine directly to the original raised emblem. Do you know if Rodney still offers the Mera wheel center emblems. I think it one might fit over my Fiero GT emblem on my steering wheel.
[This message has been edited by Rick 88 (edited 05-02-2011).]
Do you know if Rodney still offers the Mera wheel center emblems. I think it one might fit over my Fiero GT emblem on my steering wheel.
Years ago when I bought the center hub stickers from Rodney he mentioned that they were the last 2 sets.... not sure if he reprinted more or if that was the end.