Picked my bumper up yesterday. Probably one of the best quality fiberglass parts I have ever purchased. Very thick part, but much heavier than most bumpers. Will be months until I get a chance to fit it, but the finish is top notch, and looks like it needs very little work before paint. I'm excited to get it put on. Now just waiting on the rest of my custom body parts.
------------------ Blue 1987 GT, Yellow T-top 1986 GT, 2000 Corvette Coupe Z06 conversion projects and parts for sale.[/COLOR][/b]
Picked my bumper up yesterday. Probably one of the best quality fiberglass parts I have ever purchased. Very thick part, but much heavier than most bumpers. Will be months until I get a chance to fit it, but the finish is top notch, and looks like it needs very little work before paint. I'm excited to get it put on. Now just waiting on the rest of my custom body parts.
What other parts you got cooking ?
[This message has been edited by exoticse (edited 10-11-2011).]
Originally posted by exoticse: What other parts you got cooking ?
After looking at this thread, and the fantastic work...
My vote, for my theoretical future Fiero project... would be a take on the Ferrari 328. Mera has 308. 355 and now 512TR are good to go... Cover one of the brake ducts on the Fi512, and you pretty much have a 348.
I would think that Prelude 5th-generation turn signals and fog lights would work well, but the Nissan/Ford combo that this Fi512 kit uses would work...
Something with a slight bumper edge above the belt-line, and a full-width grille between the fog-light units... but with Fiero curvature to meet the stock hood line, instead of stock-ferrari-flat across the front.
I'll have to wait till I sell my buddy a fiero of mine. but I definetly want one. much more "form fitting" than the F355 nose. and that's saying a lot from me because I'm a HUGE fan of the F355 nose. but that 512 is poetry in fiberglass!!
Very thick part, but much heavier than most bumpers. Will be months until I get a chance to fit it, but the finish is top notch, and looks like it needs very little work before paint.
Someone had a concern that one of the noses was thin, so on subsequent noses I added a final layer of 8oz twill cloth and another 1.5oz mat strip around the edges. Cloth can be added as the final layer without adding more resin, which is a good thing, it just soaks up the existing resin. This makes for a slightly heavier yet stronger part.
Got the F6 back on the ground for the first time in over a year...how time flies. The 2" drop spindles from Held Motorsports is just about right with a tight 2 finger clearance. The nose is 6.25" off the ground. However, I discovered that the new front rubber brake lines From the Fierostore are too short when used with the 12" Vette brake rotors. Any suggestions on what lines I need to get?
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 11-09-2011).]
I wish someone would get one of these painted and on a car so we could get an overall picture of it. All that I have seen are close-ups showing just the front-end.
Originally posted by Amida: However, I discovered that the new front rubber brake lines From the Fierostore are too short when used with the 12" Vette brake rotors. Any suggestions on what lines I need to get?
Their Ocelot braided brake lines are longer than the OEM line lengths and are long enough for most all the popular Fiero brake conversions.
I wish someone would get one of these painted and on a car so we could get an overall picture of it. All that I have seen are close-ups showing just the front-end.
I'm sure someone will have their nose installed by next show season.
Fiberfiller is used to fill in the alignment pins, and to also fill in & smooth the transition between un-even edges to prevent air pockets. Be easy on the MEKP catalyst, you want a slow mixture to give you plenty of time to lay on the glass before the filler solidifies. Fiberglass has a tendency to bridge over inside corners & uneven edges which will create air gaps/pockets under the gelcoat. Eventually the gelcoat will crack & chip away in these un-supported areas. The filler helps to eliminate air gaps in corners.
For the first layer of fiberglass the goal is to have an air bubble free zone next to the gelcoat. Any air bubbles left next to the gelcoat will eventually become blisters in the mould surface and chip away. A thin 3/4 oz mat is applied which is ideal to allow all air bubbles to easily pass through. It will also lock the gelcoat in place without creating too much heat. Too much heat buildup in the first layers can cause rapid shrinkage/warping and premature mould separation. The mould will end up with distortions & waves.
First, butt edges of 3/4oz. mat together in the corners, this will prevent air gaps. Apply a liberal amount of resin with a brush, let soak, then use a ribbled roller & brush to consolidate the mat while pushing all the air bubbles out to the edges. Push the mat around with the brush to adust positioning if needed. Using plenty of resin will help displace the air bubbles. Once all the bubbles are gone, apply another strip of 3/4 oz mat overlapping the butt joint. Let the excess resin already applied soak into the overlapping strip. Roll out any remaining bubbles and soak up any excess puddles of resin with the brush. Let this first layer set overnight.
I was wondering if you use this product in the same manner when creating your part?? Also could this be used even if I don't use gel coat? I have a bit of difficulty with bridging (I'm sure it's my inexperience) and was hoping this was my answer to that. Thank you Ray
I was wondering if you use this product in the same manner when creating your part?? Also could this be used even if I don't use gel coat? I have a bit of difficulty with bridging (I'm sure it's my inexperience) and was hoping this was my answer to that. Thank you Ray
It's used behind the gelcoat on most of my parts that have sharp corners & edges to prevent bridging of the laminate creating air pockets. Can also be use on non-gelcoated parts. For repairs after part is removed from the mold, probably better to use bondo which is faster curing and easier to shape/sand.
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 01-15-2012).]
I had forgotten about the 512 bumper...DARNIT ALL!!!! I just bought a Trueleo Intake....ghhrrrrrrr.
wanna trade? haha
guess I need to save up every penny this spring.
Amida - please shoot me a PM with price and details about the lights. also, shipping to Pewaukee, WI, 53072 for the 512 bumper, and the cost for a grill as well too bad you don't make the 355 bumpers anymore. they were much better than the other versions froma couple companies.
glad to see you're still at it though
[This message has been edited by gtxbullet (edited 02-14-2012).]
