Madcurl, WOW man what the hell kind of engine is that in the red car with the turbo and the individual throttle bodies and beautiful fuel piping everywhere.... looks like it is gonna be mean!!!
I am sure it is probably something typical but I have never seen anything like that in other threads.... nice stuff there...peace
Madcurl, WOW man what the hell kind of engine is that in the red car with the turbo and the individual throttle bodies and beautiful fuel piping everywhere.... looks like it is gonna be mean!!!
I am sure it is probably something typical but I have never seen anything like that in other threads.... nice stuff there...peace
That is just a base model 4.0 Aurora V8......without the sound suppressing beauty cover
The throttle bodies are Weber 47mm bore injection throttle bodies.
The clutch is a Tilton duel disc unit. After running this clutch I would not recommend it for the street. The clutch works well but the clutch is not forgiving. The start of engagement to full engagement is a quiver with your left foot.
Last Sunday we went for a skid,as we hammered the throttle at about 10MPH in 1st gear BANG goes the axle. The axle is made of 4340 with a rock-well of 45. At this time we are looking into a new design as the snap ring groves seam to be a problem. Ideas are welcome, we need a new design for a high lode axle.
The clutch is a Tilton duel disc unit. After running this clutch I would not recommend it for the street. The clutch works well but the clutch is not forgiving. The start of engagement to full engagement is a quiver with your left foot.
What flywheel are you using? Why not use a unsprung single clutch with a lightweight pressure plate?
The flywheel was manufactured at WCF I'm not quite sure what you mean by this statement "Why not use a unsprung single clutch with a lightweight pressure plate?" This clutch is a solid duel disc that is light weight. The clutch disc is only 7"
Last Sunday we went for a skid,as we hammered the throttle at about 10MPH in 1st gear BANG goes the axle. The axle is made of 4340 with a rock-well of 45. At this time we are looking into a new design as the snap ring groves seam to be a problem. Ideas are welcome, we need a new design for a high lode axle.
From my experience, I know your pain !!! I only get about 15,000 miles on my axle's (short one fails first, longer axle lasts about twice as long), failures have all be torsion tear through at the snap ring location of the inboard CV (same as you pictured above). I believe the sharp 90 degree corners in the bottom of the clip channel of the axle creates a stress riser, and crack starts at that location. Naturally once you have a tear in the metal started, it's just a matter of time/force.
The last set of axle's I had made, I asked them to take the sharp 90 degree corners off the tool that cuts the U groove for C clip. They claim they took enough off each corner and clip still retains on axle, so time will tell if this is an improvement. I also asked them about possibly turning shaft down in diameter between both CV Boots, so that in the tapered center the shaft diameter would be a smaller diameter (1 to 2 mm diameter less) than the inside diameter of the groove for C Clip. They did not want to do it, but I think it would help the axle absorb some of the spike torque, by allowing the axle to twist a little (like the long axle does). I you don't understand what I'm saying, I could try to do a sketch-up.
I don't know how the Material Hardness you're using compares to a stock axle, but you can go too hard (brittle), the axle needs to flex a little. Noticed your failure is short side axle that doesn't flex as much as the long one, reason for statement, and similar problem to one I have. The harder material may be fine for the long axle because it's almost 3 times as long in length, allowing it to torsion twist a little without torsion tearing of the metal. Unfortunately, there is no way to get quick positive test results using these ideas, and the only true way is to evaluate new parts is running them in the car.
This is a problem when running a high horse/torque engine, solid mounting of engine/trans, and solid disk clutch that doesn't slip at all. All the shock loading forces are directed from the clutch, to the trans and directly to the half shafts. If the tires don't break loose quickly or the trans/engine doesn't rotate slightly, the spike loads stay contained at the half-shafts. Catch-22, my car destroys soft mounts, and sprung hub clutches.
Anyway, that's my thoughts on the matter. If you do any design experimenting, please keep me in the loop.
I totally under stand what your are saying. We are going to try some new ideas. The axle is going to be made from 300M with the splines rolled not cut. The axle will have 36 splines on both ends with no inner snap-ring groove. The CV and Try-pod will stop at the end of the splines. The groves will be on the end of the shaft. The outer CV will have a ring on the end of the shaft like the trans has and will snap in place. This axle should be good for about 5000 FT LB of torque.
The last set of axles I had made, they used 300M, don't know how that material compares to whatever Material Mark Williams Enterprises used when making shafts for Zumalt Kits. Mark Williams Enterprises would not stand behind the axles, as they said it was Zumalt's design built to order. They built some pretty high caliber equipment for racing, and I'm a bit surprised they didn't want to work with me on this issue, their shafts are damned expensive to !!!
I'm at a point where my local axle builder will not guarantee anything he makes for me now, so if this latest set from him doesn't work out past 15,000 miles, I'll ask him to do some modifications my way. I'm thinking of using a different grade steel for the short shaft (more flexible), and a different one for the long shaft (probably stay with 300M if it doesn't break). Also will have to look into the effects Cryo Treatment might offer for all half-shaft parts. I do like your idea of eliminating the inner "C" Clip grooves, if you get some parts made, please post some pictures.
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 05-22-2010).]
they're very cool. as are most other fixed 4-pot (and indeed 6-pot, though that's usually where I draw the line between nice and ridiculous) calipers. Are those wilwood rotors/hats or do wilwood and brembo hats just look very similar?
edit: just noticed, those ARE 6-pot calipers, aren't they?
[This message has been edited by PerKr (edited 05-25-2010).]
they're very cool. as are most other fixed 4-pot (and indeed 6-pot, though that's usually where I draw the line between nice and ridiculous) calipers. Are those wilwood rotors/hats or do wilwood and brembo hats just look very similar?
edit: just noticed, those ARE 6-pot calipers, aren't they?
They are 4 piston calipers , I am doing the same brake setup right now Via Chris @ West Coast . I think its one the best bang for the buck braking kits , 13" or 14" rotors your choice depending on wheel size that doest get ridiculously heavy . So far the fronts have come together without issue , rears are on the way and I expect there wont be any issues either .
Car is looking real good, cant wait to hear how that tap shift trans works out for you. Brakes look great , I painted mine red as well. I think I may change to silver depending on the car color i end up with.
I just got my custom axles from Chris , I must say they are mighty nice. I got new races for my outer cv's , 36 spline on both sides now. They have eliminated the inner snap ring on the out cv's ( known weak spot ) . I am stoked I have a nice weekend project , then a headache for my wiring harness ......
after that i will have a running car i hope , I am using tunerstudio MS for the tuning. I am shooting to get it done before the Conqors De Elegance , last year i was stuck behind a Lambo , Ferrari and a Maserati going over the grade . I say stuck because i felt like the Hot girls, fat, ugly friend ... out of place. Maybe this year I will be able to keep myself in there rear view mirrors.
I remember heading south on Highway 1 after the 1984 Concours at Pebble Beach in my brand new 1984 Corvette 7 speed, wife at my side, feeling good. Running about 80, when I looked in my rear view and saw a string of headlights gaining fast, moved up to about 100 and soon was passed by the first of about 10 mostly red Ferrari's heading back to LA. Caught up to them at about 140, but realized I was sort of out of my driving league, but we made it to our destination a lot quicker than planned. Glad we left my wife's Indy at home though.
Regards,
David
[This message has been edited by MountainHiBlue87GT (edited 08-01-2010).]
I stopped by WCF to get some additional info on CA SB100. While I was there (with Chris permission) I took a couple of picks.
According Chris, the results will put the 3800SC a bit higher on the cradle, but this will also allow for the axles to be straighter, especially for those who lower their Fieros.
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