Nevermind. Project's for sale. $2,500 for everything I own Fiero-related.
List includes:
1 - 1986 Fiero GT. Clean title, decent shape, mild rust which I began addressing before project had to go. 1 - Getrag 5-speed. Mileage unknown, condition unknown. This one's sort of a mystery, but it's here. 1 - M17 4-speed. ~76,000 miles, never had a problem with it. It's never been behind anything but a tired 2.8L. 1 - 1995/6 Aurora 4.0L. Somewhat disassembled, but that's only because it's part of a project. 1 - F40 6-speed. Brand new, zero miles. Already notched for the Aurora/Northstar starter. 1 - Complete Fiero1Fan Hella 90MM headlight setup 1- Extra '84-'87 cradle. Mild rust, but nothing excessive. 2 - Mr. Mike's leather seats with Audiobahn 3.5" speakers inside of them.
Lots of other parts, too...like a bunch of Rodney Dickman Getrag parts. Aluminum slave, master shift kit, select arm rebuild kit, and a fully-rebuilt Getrag 5-speed shifter. The only things missing from an essentially brand-new Getrag swap are the shift cables. You'll get a complete M17 setup, too. Pretty much, you're getting 2.5 drivetrain setups. The car still needs a decent amount of work, but almost everything is there.
You'll need:
1. Flywheel/Spacer. I can provide a solidworks drawing for the spacer. 2. Clutch disc. The one I have is for a Getrag 5-speed. Won't fit the F40. 3. Clutch hydraulic system. I have nothing for this yet. 4. Some sort of drivetrain. I was going to try my luck with the MU3 Cobalt stuff... 5. Engine harness. Wire it up and reassemble it. 6. Running lights. Most of the car hasn't been wired yet, but some has. Most lights are not wired. 7. Audio, if desired...I've provided nothing in this regard. I hadn't really planned on much.
It pains me greatly to try and move this, but I was fired on Monday, and as such my shop space disappeared. I've no longer got a place to put it and I can't afford a storage garage if I've got no job. It's got to go.
Best offer, of course. Let me know of any interest and if better/more specific pictures are required. Car is located in several places, but the chassis is in Williamsville, NY.
Ouch. A good friend of mine danced with his grinder also the other day. I think he said an article of clothing snagged, but the blade made a perfect five inch incision straight down the underside of his wrist. He's lucky he didn't hit an artery and bleed to death. The scar looks like a suicide cut. Be careful.
If you haven't already, fill this in. It's an enormous stress riser which will lead to a large stress concentration as it axially loads. It can develop into a lateral stress fracture. Same for the other side.
If you haven't already, fill this in. It's an enormous stress riser which will lead to a large stress concentration as it axially loads. It can develop into a lateral stress fracture. Same for the other side.
Have not done this yet. Appreciate the tip. Gives me an excuse to dust her off a bit later today and make a list.
That's an interesting idea for an oil cooler, and certainly very clean looking. Does the manufacturer list any cooling specs or show any graphs on cooling performance that you could share?
That's an interesting idea for an oil cooler, and certainly very clean looking. Does the manufacturer list any cooling specs or show any graphs on cooling performance that you could share?
Hey, thanks Blooz. Means a lot coming from you. Sadly, no...they don't. From everything I've read, though, I should expect oil temps to stay within 15-20 degrees of water temp and for the water to reach operating temp sooner. Pretty scientific I know, but it's better than no cooler at all for sure.
OK thanks for looking. Could you post the manufacturer and model of the oil cooler so that I can do a little hunting myself?
Not really. I think it's a unit made by Seakamp. It's entirely made of copper, has a 6" long body and 1-1/4" hose barbs. It's designed as a drop-in replacement for OEM marine coolers, so it's not really a "performance part" per se. I searched for a few hours to find a list of cooling/efficiency specs, but the only ones I could find are the physical dimensions of the damn thing. I didn't call or e-mail the manufacturer...I suppose that would be a good place to start?
nice build.. I like the idea of the heim joints replacing the inner tie rods on the rear..
That was jstricker solving the bump steer issue his own way. I bought the cradle from him like 5 years ago already built like that. Should be able to comment on the handling improvement in a few weeks...
Let me know how it does, The p.o. of my car mentioned it 10 years ago about using heim joints but never gave it much thought.... I am redoing all my suspension now and if worth the effort would not be much to do at this point.. hum just thought about it, the same p.o owned all of my cars at one point.....
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87 GT series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft) (series II swap in progress) 85GT Northstar/ 4t80e 86GT 3800 n/a My Build
[This message has been edited by jb1 (edited 08-04-2013).]
Found an engine harness; should be here on Thursday. Then the motor goes back in, fluids get filled, computers get programmed and keys get turned. Stay tuned.
Got my SpeedHuts and threw them in the gnarly replacement cluster panels I had.
Going to head over tomorrow to get all of the senders installed and mount the gauges. They look pretty good turned on. I dropped the extra coin on the dimmer inverter for the glow and an opening ceremony for gauge power-on. It's pretty cool to watch. The gauges themselves are a bit noisy being a mechanical stepper motor design, but they'll be inaudible against the motor behind me.
[This message has been edited by 1986 Fiero GT (edited 10-24-2014).]
Got sick of trying to find some ridiculous unobtainable throttle cable from a later 4-cyl car or whatever supposedly fits. Ordered up some parts to just make one. My purchase consists of .064mm wire and the appropriate teflon-lined nylon conduit with .250" diameter conduit ends. I found appropriately sized ball ends for the Fiero throttle pedal and the Northstar TB to solder onto the wire. I also picked up an in-line adjuster for the conduit to take out up to 1" of slack from cable stretch and other wear. Found the stuff here. Paid $33 for everything. To my door in three days. Gonna go put a throttle cable together this weekend.
Mounted and wired the SpeedHuts. Hoping to finish plumbing the coolant system, finish up any wiring gremlins and solder together the throttle cable tomorrow. We'll see.
Did spring cleaning in the shop last week. Motivating myself to finish this thing up in the next few weeks.
Here's a picture I took last week. Really showcases the exhaust. Looks good here.
Fairly short list left, considering:
-Fill Coolant -Purchase HPTuners and delete VATS -Fab shifter cable bracket at transmission and install shifter cables -Install rotors and calipers, terminate hoses at calipers -Bleed brakes and clutch -Purchase/install headlights -Purchase/install outer dew wipes -Reinstall bodywork -Install turn signal and high beam indicators in gauge bezel -Set up all gauges -Align all four corners -Break in clutch and tune -Profit
Nice build. Slow but consistent (like mine). Curious as to the ECU you're running. Someday I hope to get mine on the road, and I suspect I will have ECU issues.
Hah, thanks. It's only been 7 or 8 years. I went with the LS1 computer running the Shelby Series One program. Haven't gotten it running, but it's close. Hopefully find out how well in the next week or two. I have enough money to order HPTuners.
where the updates?
