Update! I spent some time on it today. I did a lot of small little things that needed attention, and installed the intake for test fitting (and to keep water out of it). I also ran the first section of the replacement trans cooler lines, which was the easy section being the lines going down the rocker. I also installed the first stage of the black/tan interior theme I have going. Next is the gauge cluster pod when i remove the tach (which isn't really working anymore) and mod it for the V8. The interior is not back together, I just set it in place for a picture. It will have a boot installed, and look more "aligned"
Page 2 ownage!
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 04-26-2011).]
Update! I spent some time on it today. I did a lot of small little things that needed attention, and installed the intake for test fitting (and to keep water out of it). I also ran the first section of the replacement trans cooler lines, which was the easy section being the lines going down the rocker. I also installed the first stage of the black/tan interior theme I have going. Next is the gauge cluster pod when i remove the tach (which isn't really working anymore) and mod it for the V8. The interior is not back together, I just set it in place for a picture. It will have a boot installed, and look more "aligned"
Wow nice work in such a short time frame, wish I could work on my swap that quickly! I'd like to stop by and see it some time when you got all the bugs worked out of it.
A 200K variable resistor soldering into a trace that I have to cut into the circuit board.
There is always bad with the good, as I learned a few days ago. The diff has a 3.06 ratio, which was fine by me, but I didn't know the devilles had a 37/33 chain. So now I'm down to 2.73. Gr. Oh well, I guess ill be getting great gas mileage, lol.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 04-27-2011).]
If Tstang429 can't do the tach mod I can do it for you. I'm an hour a way and I have the proper tools (variable fine point solder iron, correct solder). Or you can use my tools if need be.
A 200K variable resistor soldering into a trace that I have to cut into the circuit board.
There is always bad with the good, as I learned a few days ago. The diff has a 3.06 ratio, which was fine by me, but I didn't know the devilles had a 37/33 chain. So now I'm down to 2.73. Gr. Oh well, I guess ill be getting great gas mileage, lol.
The tach mod is really easy. Look here under "articles" > "tachometer reverse engineered". If you solder on lead wires it can be adjusted after its reinstalled. http://fieros.de/en/main.html
[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 04-27-2011).]
Wow. What a day it has been. Where do I start. Lol. Well I installed the remaining auto tranny cooler lines, and fixed a few leaks on the fittings, that's all pretty much good to go. Next, I was trying to figure out why it was getting really hot too fast, it was most likely a bad thermostat, I bought a new lower temp one, but it seems to run just fine without a thermostat, and it gets plenty hot enough. I will re-install when I get the kinks worked out of the other issues. After that, i was like, what the hell, I put the wheels on, had my dad shift the transmission at the transmission because I STILL don't have a shift cable (only thing I really need!), AND I DROVE IT!! It drives great, lots of torque, rumbles like mad, very loud. Only problem is it takes way way too long to shift out of 1st. Then the fun started, I drove home and picked up my dad to give him a short ride like I just did, all was going well until I hit the last corner before our "street", and then..panic on my part. it started making a horrible grinding noise, right after a large bump in the road. I shut down the engine a few seconds later...but there was still noise?!? The starter was constantly running, while loud shorting sound was going on. I stop the car right at the corner of the road. By this time the starter stopped, but the shorting was constant. What happened was the large battery cable going to the battery in front going to the starter, came loose from its terminal, and was shorting everywhere. I jumped out of the car, ran to the other side, squished myself under the car, and pulled it from the cradle/whatever it was shorting on.
Attempted to calm down...didn't really work, so I disconnected the battery terminal. Ok...now what!?! The car is nearly in two lanes, in the middle of the street, and right in the middle of where the street turns. Push it home! So that's what we did. It wasn't that long of a distance but still, that and going uphill slightly, I was hyperventilating and had burning legs when we got it near our house. Pushed into the driveway after a break, jacked it up, straightened the wire, crimped it on the terminal with a sledge hammer, then welded it, then wrapped it in electrical tape. 50X better then what it was, I kinda just stuffed it in the terminal and it worked the first time. Our fix worked, and I took it out for another drive since then. Fun experience! Builds character, that's for sure. Just thought I would share my story with you guys, the crazy life of Matt.
Other then that, I'm pretty excited. I drove my car with the V8 in it! It truly is a different experience, it was like I wasn't driving a Fiero, or at least MY Fiero. Of course there is still a good bit to finish up, but for the most part, It works! I snapped some pics and another Video. On the video, please excuse my stupid "V8!!!!" comment, I do that and it annoys the crap out of my friends and family. Lol. Also, that leaking was from earlier, while I was messing with the Thermostat, doesn't leak at present anymore. I am getting about 30-40 PSI of oil pressure during warm/hot idle, so I think that's good.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 04-28-2011).]
Matt ya need to get the 195* thermostat back in the engine. The ECM is looking for 195*. Closed loop is 'iffy' at lower temperatures. The engone will run best at 195*. You are wasting $4.00 a gallon gas too. The Fiero cooling system will work good with the 4.9, it just has to be "Right", all the way right.
I filled mine with the front down hill on a slight incline in front of my house. You can remove the cap and add coolant, (engine running) with the set up you have. I did it. Just don't let the water get hot while you are doing this as it expands with heat. Make sure you have the over flow tank at the proper level for a cold engine while doing this.
This is not Rocket Science, just filling a cooling system. The down hill filling has worked on all my Fiero's when filling up after repairs, or what ever.
Love the 'Goldie". My favorite behind white coupes w/beechwood interiors. Hey I got one of those!!!!!!!
-Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 04-28-2011).]
Matt ya need to get the 195* thermostat back in the engine. The ECM is looking for 195*. Closed loop is 'iffy' at lower temperatures. The engone will run best at 195*. You are wasting $4.00 a gallon gas too. The Fiero cooling system will work good with the 4.9, it just has to be "Right". all the way right.
Love the 'Goldie". My favorite behind white coupes w/beechwood interiors. Hey I got one of those!!!!!!!
-Joe
Is 180* still iffy? I didn't get the 160 one, I got the 180* "Failsafe" one, and it was more expensive then the others but looked of much better quailty then the one I got from Rockauto. That thing caused me problems.
I am thinking that it doesn't have a gasket, just a large 'O' ring?
Yup. That darn O ring, was leaking all over on me. Just used different wording, sorry. Actually now that I think about it, the Rockauto thermostat didn't even fit right into the housing, I had to file it down to fit. I got a new O-ring today and the 180 thermostat, and pitched the other ones. No more leaks thus far!
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 04-28-2011).]
Another interesting day. Today I installed the whole 88 headlight motor system. Went pretty good, works much better then the old system, bleh. After that I installed the 180F Thermostat with a hole drilled in it, works pretty good. Took it for a longer drive, and it was kind of a gradual thing that I think I noticed eariler, but I thought it was something else, the brake pedal turned rock hard, and all four calipers seized on me! Not totally I don't think, but enough where the V8 was working to move the car. Before that it was a really nice drive, great sound, power, etc. When I got home, of course I smelled burning brakes, but the engine/transmisson got really hot! Which is obvious due to seized brakes, but what worried me was when the temp hit 200F or so, my oil pressure at idle went waaaay down to start of the red zone, the oil light flashed on once or twice before I shut it down. My whole crossover pipe has turned this ugly brown from the paint burning off. The rad line at the radiator was burning hot, as to be expected, but so were the transmission cooler lines?! Is that normal? The fluid is still red, didn't smell that bad either.
I'm totally stumped as to what cause have caused ALL the calipers to seized or stick. Any ideas?
Matt, I'm not completely sure that your calipers siezed up, usually getting a rock hard pedal means that your power booster is bad, or not getting vaccum. Now a large vaccum leak can cause multiple things, such as a lean condition that would make the engine run VERY hot like happened to you. In order to figure out exactly what happened I would have to make a stop over there and take a look at it.
Matt, I'm not completely sure that your calipers siezed up, usually getting a rock hard pedal means that your power booster is bad, or not getting vaccum. Now a large vaccum leak can cause multiple things, such as a lean condition that would make the engine run VERY hot like happened to you. In order to figure out exactly what happened I would have to make a stop over there and take a look at it.
-Sam
That's not the problem, there was no high idle like a vacuum leak, and I when I pulled the line off the brake booster, it made a big woosh sound, so it was getting vacuum. and I know my calipers were seized, the was a huge drag while driving, I let off the gas, and it could stop itself easily. When I got home, I smelled burnt brake pads and I felt tons of heat coming off the rotors. The wheels were even pretty hot near the center.
It's not uncommon for 4.9's to run low oil pressure at idle - there is still plenty of flow of oil, so shouldn't be a problem under normal circumstances. I would still check for a vacuum leak and check the timing. The burning paint on the crossover is worrisome.
The 4.9 engine bay will also feel hotter than the 2.8 or 3.4 - it's a bigger motor and an aluminum block.
As to your brakes - look at the master cylinder and proportioning valve.
It's not uncommon for 4.9's to run low oil pressure at idle - there is still plenty of flow of oil, so shouldn't be a problem under normal circumstances. I would still check for a vacuum leak and check the timing. The burning paint on the crossover is worrisome.
The 4.9 engine bay will also feel hotter than the 2.8 or 3.4 - it's a bigger motor and an aluminum block.
As to your brakes - look at the master cylinder and proportioning valve.
Thank you, that makes me feel better about the low oil pressure. I'm used to the 2.8/3.4's, where if you get down that low your in deep do-do.
It wasn't high heat temp paint anyway, I think It went only to 500F..and this is actually the shield on the crossover pipe, not the pipe itself.
It wasn't high heat temp paint anyway, I think It went only to 500F..and this is actually the shield on the crossover pipe, not the pipe itself.
Those crossover pipes get hotter then you might think. Hotter then 500 for sure. Try some silicone header paint. Its good to 1500 degrees. Usually around $10 per can at any auto parts store that sells paint.
Second on the brake master or prop valve. All 4 calipers locking up at the same time is highly unlikely.
Checking for a vacuume leaks is also a good idea. The 4.9 PCM can easily compensate for most and may cover up the issue. Best of luck Matt. Your car is coming along nicely!
[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 04-30-2011).]
Well yesterday I had secre7skw3rl stop by and see my V8 swap, and see what was up with my brakes. My brakes are totally normal! Nothing wrong with them, we went from a longer drive again today with it and zero issues. No idea what happened or why. And I drove the exact same way as I did before, did not abuse the brakes at all. My only conclusion is the brake fluid boiled, and caused pressure in the lines to engage the calipers and cause a rock hard brake pedal. The fluid is still clear, so I really don't know. I also started the installation of my rear sway bar, but I couldn't finish it because my drill didn't fit between the cradle and ground, so does anyone have a 90* drill I can borrow or a day? I only need to drill four holes.
Good news: I found the tach problem, it was a poorly connected wire on the coil itself, got that fixed, tach worked. Bad news: Ruined Tach afterwords trying to mod it. Need a new one/different one.
Well I kind of slapped together my old tach, and it works for the most part, it will do for now. looks pretty good when you look at it, The only issue with it is the spring broke in it, and its not together exactly the way it should be. I printed out the face design from NJD85GT, so it seems accurate now for the time being.
Also finally got a shift cable in today from PaulV, but its been raining outside all day, and I don't feel like installing it in the rain. no thanks.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 05-29-2011).]
Today I installed the Auto Shift Cable! I took off the rear sway bar, the holes will have to wait for a later time. After that, I took it off the ramps and drove it around darn near al day, i put at least 50 miles miles on it today. No problems until the end, I was turning left on a busy busy main road, gunned it, and I heard a loud THUMP from the back...I was like that's not good. So i pulled into a parking and found out the welds on my 4th mount broke! And the passenger exhaust hanger's rubber rip out on me, too. So I drove home with care, and put it back on ramps. The mount itself is totally fine, the whole thing just broke from the cradle, it flopped around a good bit without that mount attached. So I removed it, ground it down, drilled a hole in it and the cradle and ran a bolt in it. It works fine until I get use a much more powerful welder. I then replaced the exhaust hanger, and took it out for another small drive. All seems good.
EDIT: oops forgot to talk about this picture. I took this to show my finished "Stage 1" black/tan interior theme, I painted the Gauge cluster housings black.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 05-05-2011).]
I am just happy to hear that you are nearing roadworthyness. You are a much more patient man than I.
Tony
Thanks Tony. I sincerely hope everything will turn out well for you, I have read your OT thread, and what your going through is just shocking. I hope the best for you, my Good Sir.
Didn't do much to it today, just drove it around to school and back. Dropped off my old 3.4 in a crate to be shipped off to its new owner. Re-wired in the switch for the FM modulator, works great! Well, as good as its going to get with a factory GM radio (still, loads better then the stock fiero radios). Might get an aftermarket head unit in the future, who knows.
The rear suspension needs an alignment real bad, so I might get one tomorrow, I'm unsure when but It needs one soon if i'm going to drive it.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 05-06-2011).]
You can get the toe really close with just a couple jack stands, some string, and a tape measure, and camber with a level. I drove mine a while after doing that, and the car didn't feel any different after having a 'professional' alignment (their equipment wasn't advanced enough to give me a printout of the before and after settings, or so they claimed).
You can get the toe really close with just a couple jack stands, some string, and a tape measure, and camber with a level. I drove mine a while after doing that, and the car didn't feel any different after having a 'professional' alignment (their equipment wasn't advanced enough to give me a printout of the before and after settings, or so they claimed).
Oh ok. Can you explain how you did this? My toe seems ok, its just my camber is way out there (top of wheel tucked in).
Camber on the rear is adjusted by the two nuts and bolts on the struts, one is a pivot, the other is slotted. I used the camber bolts sold at NAPA, part # NCP2643609
Yes i know this. i think I'll just have them do it, Not a good level surface around here and i don't trust myself with that.
EDIT: Got my alignment done today (5/07) and it's much much better! Rear end feels much more stable and planted then previously. They said everything was in the red (off-alignment). Which surprised me, the back I knew because that's why it needed one in the first place, but the was front was way off too? Huh. Ok then.
In other news, my Tach stopped working again. UGH. I have had it with the factory gauges/printed circuit in the back, the thing is just falling apart! One edge already has split apart and if I'm not careful, everything shorts. POS. I really want to get a set of aftermarket gauges and idiot lights, maybe even add some of each!
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 05-06-2011).]
Today I fixed a few small things, but the main thing I did was install the radio from the 88 we parted out, To me, it seems like a better quality sound then the GM Delco unit. It sounds more crisp, while the Delco one sounded a bit "muddy". Works great, including my Tang sub that I have in there!
I am also currently bidding on a used set of Speedhut gauges on eBay to replace mine. I'm just tired of the old inaccurate gauges, and the Tach has been the biggest PITA with the V8 swap. Plus, the speedhut gauges have a blue back-light too.
hey, that's the same stereo we have in our Lumina! It does sound pretty good actually, plus it has an aux. jack on it!! iPod it up!! lol...also great job on the 4.9 swap!! Wish i was talented enough to pull something like that off, major kudos!
hey, that's the same stereo we have in our Lumina! It does sound pretty good actually, plus it has an aux. jack on it!! iPod it up!! lol...also great job on the 4.9 swap!! Wish i was talented enough to pull something like that off, major kudos!
Thanks, it is a nice stereo, and my phone is my MP3 player, so I can use the aux jack on that too.
quote
Originally posted by BOBBY D:
now just get the fiero 4.9 stickers for the rear decklid and your all set. Everyone will see the sticker as that should be the only view of the car.
Hows the tranny with the deville gear ratio working out?
Yea, your right about the stickers Lol.
The 2.73 ratio is both good and bad. I would want a higher ratio for sure If I knew it had what it did when I rebuilt it. Acceleration is still pretty amazing, but I know it could be better, which is actually a bit scary. When I hit 40mph, it drops into 4th and locks the Torque converter. At that speed, it drops to 700-800 RPM or so! Bogs itself a bit. However, if you do alot of highway driving you'll love it. I run around 1500RPM ish (tach doesn't work) at 70 MPH.
You are a much more patient man than I. 
