quote Originally posted by Fierokid87: The more i see these 3800 swaps the more i want to do one. Problem is I have no clue as to how the wiring is done or where to get mounts. I don't have a whole lot of money either.

Easiest swap in the world. You can order every single part for several vendors. You can get a 100% new harness from Injection Technology. I put Jim at IT in touch with Dean from Whodeanie's and I believe he will be making all of Deans harness' from now on. They are very affordable and worth every penny. Also, since the swap is so popular, its very well documented and several of us can provide any further explaination etc..

[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 05-25-2012).]

How much do those harnesses run for? What is the average cost of a complete swap start to finish?

If you bought everything instead of making it, I'd say between $3k-$4k for everything, depending on the cost of the motor.

Yeah for that much I'm afraid I'm stuck with what I have. If I had help from the local fiero guys then may I could do it.

[This message has been edited by Fierokid87 (edited 05-25-2012).]

It's been awhile but here it is. The car is done for now but still needs work with some of the bugs that need taken care of.



video [has muffler but no exhuast tips in this video]
https://www.facebook.com/ph...56716&type=2&theater
Sorry it took so long to post this but I just haven't gotten around to doing it [mostly forgot about it till now]. The car was put back together in late June. So far it runs fine but it has some problems with shredding the ribs of the alt belt [most likely the tensioner for the low alt mount is off a little and needs to be redone]. The trans runs good and the engine sounds great. There are some electrical problems that need to be taken care of such as the temp gauge doesn't work but the computer does read temp based from the OBDII readout and the egr is having problems not working [doesn't show a check engine code but it has a warning in the OBDII scanner]. Another thing is that it does have a low idle at start but then goes to normal idle shortly after. Still runs fine and returns to normal idle afterwards but it always starts low and then goes back to normal after start[can be heard in video]. Other than that it is a fun car to drive and has a lot of power to throw around.

I am having the same problem with shredding the alt belt... I have replaced the mount a few times and it has recurred... it seems the tensioner had very little room to do its job before "bottoming out" so i found a shorter belt and will see if that helps at all. Let me know if you figure anything else out.
Good luck and great looking swap.
Ryan

Up date on those belts??

Sorry about the long time away but I had other projects that kinda pulled me away. The story about the pulley/belts was that the dog bone mount/bracket was not cut leveled and caused the idler pulley to be slightly cocked. with the right spacer the pulley would work fine. I ended up remounting the ALT back on top after the old one died as I wanted an easier location for the times that I would need to replace it. It also keeps the ALT away from the hot exhaust.
It actually works out quite well up on top. No more shreading of belts as the pulley system is somewhat back to factory (minus power steering). I had to notch the deck-lid a little but it wasn't as bad since the engine sits lower and back. I still have to make a proper upper dog bone but was able to make a temp bracket till I make something else.

Shot of the notch in the deck-lid (has been cleaned up more since this shot was taken)

That all I got going on as of now but I have other plans when summer hits.

[This message has been edited by fiero al (edited 03-13-2015).]