so far to my knowledge, this is the 3rd kit. the silver prototype has a SC3800 , and the second (yellow and black) is getting painetd with a pink flake clear coat?
I am intrested to see this. although Ive seen the first two get built up when the prototype had plug molds.
Its interesting. I will be watching. and please finish the project. lol.
Hi Everyone, lets get back to the build Here's just a few small things I ran into during the assembly process. I thought that it may be more important to give you some of the details, rather than just the big items.
Old Radio Antenna lead to fender assembly, I'm not sure what to do with this yet, maybe stub it out? One of the local guys told me to mount a small fiber antenna inside the fender.
This is the gas filler line that has to be extended to the new fender panel. The wire is a ground strap for static electricity when you fill the gas, it needs to stay in place. My plan is to cut off the filler top and add a piece of flex line held in place with clamps to the new fender.
Door panel rods, one for lock and one for door handle.
My Lucky Black Dragon Fly on the Card Hood, wandered in and stayed all day... It landed on four or five of the car body parts
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 07-26-2013).]
I wanted to relocate the battery, so I purchased a battery box from V8 Archie, It was easy to install. I used painters tape to lay it out, this cuts easily. You have to work around the break line, it's just under the panel, so be careful not to cut it. I strapped the line back to the new battery box with tie straps after installation.
This is the installation layout on the car panel 10" wide by 11" tall. Hint: I measured the 10" cut between the break line mounts
They include good instructions on a CD, the unit is not pre-drilled for mounting. I installed 4 screws on each of the four sides with self locking nuts (12 screws)
I used 1/4" x 3/4" bolts with fender washers to add strength. I picked up #2 wire for the new battery cable wires.
I sprayed rustproofing on the steel that I welded on the frame along with any cut open edges
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 08-13-2013).]
Someone asked for pics farther away from the car with no body.
Front pic, I have already started masking the car off for priming
Rear View, you can see factory inner fender wells are still installed. New fender well extensions are included with the kit and mount directly to the factory pieces. Overlap the factory wells so you don't see the exposed edge.
Side view, I also rustproofed any chassis areas that looked a little scratched.
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 07-07-2013).]
To mount the new hood you use the factory hinges. You can adjust the bottom of the hinge left to right and up and down. I purchased SS 1 3/4" Bolts to attach the hood to the brackets.
This is the factory hood support bracket, I used the factory screws to reattach.
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 07-07-2013).]
Prepping body panels I used 3m red the green body filler to touch up and body imperfections. With two colors it was easier to see the fill spots before I sprayed on the primer.
Rear Body Panel
Front clip
Rear Bumper Panel, first coat of white sealer before the 2k buff primer was sprayed
I used 220 to dry sand and 320 to wet sand
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 08-18-2013).]
Originally posted by Mikitcarman: Old Radio Antenna lead to fender assembly, I'm not sure what to do with this yet, maybe stub it out? One of the local guys told me to mount a small fiber antenna inside the fender.
On my stock Fiero I relocated the stock antenna to inside the fender. If you turn the bracket 90 degrees to the frame rail you can run the antenna alongside the fender. Then it's just a matter of using some flat bar stock to make a bracket to hold the top of the antenna in place. I know that with the Lizardo you lose some of the front frame rail when you have to cut it for clearance, so yes you may look into getting some sort of shorter antenna if you're wishing to keep the antenna without it being visible.
85SEnochie I like your Basic Yellow and Black Layout. I was staring out with this......
I was given this toy car for my birthday, it thought it was a nice design. I'm trying to do something with this layout so the stripes will work on the car and stay within the upper and lower body lines. It may be to much stripping?
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 07-08-2013).]
85SEnochie I like your Basic Yellow and Black Layout. I was staring out with this......
I was given this toy car for my birthday, it thought it was a nice design. I'm trying to do something with this layout so the stripes will work on the car and stay within the upper and lower body lines. It may be to much stripping?
85SEnochie that is fantastic, nice work!!! Thank You.
Well, what do you think, is it to much
You are welcome! If that's what you want that's what matters most it's your dream not mine anything that breaks up the side is good so that it does not look so much like a brick from the side Don't get me wrong I think the Liz it is a sweet ride but from the direct side angle it looks like a brick That is why I was breaking up the yellow in the first place and thought it looked cool too.
The back fiberglass extends over the rear glass panel on the left and right side about 8" I masked off the car and sprayed the glass so that you cannot see back into the fender area from inside the car.
I used tape along the edge of the fiberglass when the rear panels were in place. I tried different methods to cover this, but the high gloss black paint on the glass looked the best.
The next part of the process is to take all the parts on the car and pre-fit the entire body. Aligning all the spaces and all the parts so they flow as a nicely built car. Then I used black Automotive #10 - 3/4" and 1" screws to secure the panels down,
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 09-04-2013).]
The new tires are a little wider than the originals!
Starting to look like a car!!
You can see that the door panel is not perfectly lined up, I'm changing the inside top of the fender panel to correct the front of the door.
Now it's time to make fun of my old style spoiler I'm building the spoiler to look like the raised lift design type, I just like the way this style profiles on the car..... I took this picture to check if the height is correct, It looks to clear the deck - just right.
The double chrome tale pipes have to go, the pipes will come through the two fender ports when its done.
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 09-04-2013).]
A couple of repair areas to match panels Any body kit has to be matched up to the car, this kit actually lined very good with little repairs. This is my third kit and I was having fun with alignment. If your going to build it yourself, I recommend to pay the extra to the guys at Fiero Fiberglass and get the panels pre-drilled. It will save you a lot of time and effort.
I had a 3/8" gap to the window trim, I filled with Fiber-tec.
Lines look ok, spacing is better.
The right side of the hood didn't match, so I filled it. After setting all the other panels, it was easier to fix it than try moving it again.
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 08-13-2013).]
I guess it's time to talk about the electrical This information can be found other places in the forum, so this is basic info
The kit comes with new tail lights, side lights, front head lights and turn signals. There is some left over wires, so I'm going to hook up some LED parking lights under the car.
Rear Drivers Side: Driving Lights - Brown/Black Break Lights - Lt Blue/Black Left Turn - Yellow/Black Backup Lights - Light Green/Black Running Lights - Brown with White/Black
Rear Passenger Side: Driving Lights - Brown/Black Break Lights - Lt Blue/Black Right Turn - Green/Black Backup Lights - Light Green/Black Running Lights - Brown with White/Black
Front Driver Side: Head Lights - Light Green/Black for Hi Beam, Tan/Black for Low Beam Turn Signal - Dark Blue/Black Running Lights - Brown/Black
Front Passenger Side: Head Lights - Light Green/Black for Hi Beam, Tan/Black for Low Beam Turn Signal - Light Blue/Black Running Lights - Brown/Black
The pictured lights came with the kit, they have a 5 color LED ring - Blue
Yellow to match the car
Red, you get the picture
I wired them up so the Led's come on with the low beam and the center Bulbs come on with the high beams. I detached the black and white from center bulb and connect them to the head light connector, the controller only changes the LED to the five different colors
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 09-05-2013).]
Originally posted by Mikitcarman: My Lucky Black Dragon Fly on the Card Hood, wandered in and stayed all day... It landed on four or five of the car body parts
Its a sign man, now you need to paint a small dragon fly somewhere on the car!
To paint the finish colors I purchased an Eastwood Concours HVLP spray gun with 1.2, 1.4, 1.8 tips Have to say that this gun operates at low CMF and is easy to use, I recommend this spray gun for any level of car builder. The Teflon paint cup liner makes this gun fast and easy to clean. The 1.8 tip is for the primer a 2K urethane Buff, the 1.4 tip is for the urethane Yellow and black and the 1.2 tip is for the clear.
Front clip bottom panel
Under door panels
Main Body
Front Hood before the black was added.
Trunk Lid
You may be asking why there is a big hole in the trunk?
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 09-04-2013).]
I'm adding a black glass panel over the engine.... It should add a little style.
This will go nicely with my Black accents, I also have some LED strips to back-light the area at night.
The trunk with the window sealed in it, I used black silicone so that it will have a dark edge when you look in the engine area from the outside of the car.
[This message has been edited by Mikitcarman (edited 08-26-2013).]
I masked off the car and sprayed the glass so that you cannot see back into the fender area from inside the car.
In time you may find that the paint will start to crack or peel away, unless you scuffed the window surface or used an etching paint. If you still have acess to the area, you could use several layers of limousine window tint. The darkest you can get. Or somewhere down the road if the paint does start to crack or peel, just apply a layer or two on the inside of the rear window, cut to size to fit that area.
I love 86SEnochie's first color layout and also the last one with the stripes, but for my taste, I'd go with the chrome wheels instead of the black and yellow.
Just remember that whatever color you spray down onto the glass, that is the color you will see from the inside of the car. If you spray a Black etching primer as the base then there is no need to even spray paint on top of it cause you won't see it from the outside of the car anyway. The inside will appear to be gloss cause of the glass.
Don't get me wrong I think the Liz it is a sweet ride but from the direct side angle it looks like a brick 
That is why I was breaking up the yellow in the first place and thought it looked cool too.
looking good thanks for keeping us up to date on your Liz. 
