I got my Aeroforce Interceptor from ZZP today. I had a quick play with it. Its a bit fiddly to set up (granted, I didnt read the instructions yet) but I did find 1 code, P0134. IIRC that is an o2 sensor code. Also, CTS is reading AFAIK.
BV, Despite any previous animosity between us, I am very sorry to hear that you did not get your car done the way you had wanted. It certainly looked promising watching it progress. Having met Dean he sure seemed like the real deal and not knowing the particulars I will just say that the whole situation sucks I am sure for both of you. I wish you the best of luck in sorting the issues with your car, I for one would love to hear a happy ending from it somehow, someway. It certainly has the potential to be a sweet and fast fiero....Good luck and let us know how it goes. Peace
Thanks Pete. I am working on it as I get time. Timm (phonedawgz) called me today and walked me through the process of connecting his VSS buffer. I cant thank him enough for that. OUTSTANDING customer service!
I had a go at fixing the pegged temp gauge. The needle was stuck straight up. When I pulled the clear IP cover, it swung down to the temp icon. I figured it was a good time to install my new IP illumination bulbs (RD's brighter version) as well. I put it all back together and wouldn't you know, as soon as I turned the key on, the needle pegs perfectly sideways, pointing to the right. Key off, it goes back to the normal rest position (temp icon). Did I mention I HATE electronics & wiring? I know its not Timm's problem, but I hope he can advise me on where to look into sorting out that stupid temp gauge.
I trimmed the studs that were hanging down from the lip spoiler, so now they arent digging into the top of the tail light panel. Filled in the huge gap around the wiring as it passes through the firewall to the ECU. Really???
Etc etc.. just a bunch of little jobs here and there. I have to install the mini starter next and hope there is room for the oil return line to be routed properly. If not I am going to have to run a turbo oil return line scavenging pump. The list never seems to shrink. The more I look, the more problems I find.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 10-14-2012).]
Been on and off the phone with Timm. Progress has been made. Here is what we found:
Unplug the 3 wire CTS and ground the single pin (green IIRC) the temp light comes on
With CTS still unplugged and ign ON the temp gauge drops down to 100 from the TEMP icon
Unplug the C500 and ground the C2 pin and the TEMP light comes on
Ground the D3 pin and the gauge pegs
So my car is wired backwards. D3 should be for the TEMP warning light but its actually running the gauge and vice-versa. Simple plan is to clip both wires and solder the D3 to C2 pin and leave the other one taped off.
Again, thanks goes to Timm!
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 09-27-2012).]
I had those same wheels in full chrome on my last fiero. I think they were called Beasts or something. I really liked them. They were like 18x8 5x100 38mm offset. I would like to get them or one of their sister wheels for my current fiero at some point but I am so tapped out right now trying to get my shop fully equipped and my vertical machining center setup and tooled up. They look good in black too apparently. Love the rear.view as well. Damn I gotta get my car going I have not done a damn thing to it in awhile.....peace
I worked till 1am last night on the car. Its so nice not to be bothered and its so much cooler in the garage (even with A/C during the day).
I got the front wheels to just clear but its got a lot of neg camber to do so.
HID's and bat relocation
Aeroforce Interceptor (temp mount)
RD strut installed
Nice to see the kinks getting worked out. I like the front fender indent. Is that something Dean did? Looks like a Ferrari badge will fit right in. LOL just joking but I do like it.
Make sure you plug the lower return well.. Dont just cram some random rubber cap over it.
When you do the fitting for the return in the valve cover.. you may want to tap it into the side of the back valve cover so you can hide it as much as possible. Returning to the fil cap on the front would be a mess.
I still find it impossible to believe you cant just run it down the side of the trans.... If I can easily run a drain on a fwd auto with 1/2 the engine bay space and 2x the transmission, you shouldnt have any problems.
Make sure you plug the lower return well.. Dont just cram some random rubber cap over it.
When you do the fitting for the return in the valve cover.. you may want to tap it into the side of the back valve cover so you can hide it as much as possible. Returning to the fil cap on the front would be a mess.
I still find it impossible to believe you cant just run it down the side of the trans.... If I can easily run a drain on a fwd auto with 1/2 the engine bay space and 2x the transmission, you shouldnt have any problems.
I appreciate your input. I wish you could see what I am up against tryign to sort this out. Its a MESS on the firewall side. Everything has been stuffed back there to hide it. Even the A/C line has a big loop in it for some reason. I'm not saying its impossible.. but man its BAD. I like your idea of pumping the oil back to the V/C. I was just going to take the easy route and leave the return where it is at.
I know there is info on HOMELINK stuff. I think Raydar did it as well as others. I remember Raydar's being in the overhead panel with the reading lights. I remember someone doing it in the center console black panel next to the cigarette lighter as well.
Does anyone have a vector for this logo? I tried making a cutout with a cnc plasma but the image file I was using was so horrible it didn't turn out very well.
Does anyone have a vector for this logo? I tried making a cutout with a cnc plasma but the image file I was using was so horrible it didn't turn out very well.
What you are attempting to do is to duplicate my copyrighted artwork, it is not for sale nor public use, as has been stated several times on this forum. I trust you are have enough integrity to realize the stealing my work would make you a thief. I made these for Steve as a favor and compensation for allowing me to buy his engine. These are copyrighted work and are not now, nor will they ever be public domain artwork. As an artist, I create works for hire, they are not for public consumption.
Dr. W.
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[This message has been edited by infinitewill (edited 10-02-2012).]
What you are attempting to do is to duplicate my copyrighted artwork, it is not for sale nor public use, as has been stated several times on this forum. I trust you are have enough integrity to realize the stealing my work would make you a thief. I made these for Steve as a favor and compensation for allowing me to buy his engine. These are copyrighted work and are not now, nor will they ever be public domain artwork. As an artist, I create works for hire, they are not for public consumption.
Dr. W.
Then I am extremely sorry, I had never seen a post stating that it was copyrighted work until now and will delete the .pcm file.
Once I got it mocked up I want to see how much flow I was getting and if it would "burp" the system like I wanted. ZERO flow. WTH? Turns out the pump was installed backwards. It was pulling instead of pushing.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 10-14-2012).]
I would highly suggest taking it easy on the clutch and break it in for 500+ miles before you put it on the dyno. It will be a huge waste of time when it starts to slip. You are already going to be on the edge with the stage 3.
Also, my pump should be here tomorrow. I have been plugging away at the Fiero. Hopefully I'll be able to get some miles on the clutch before the car gets tuned on Monday.
Plugging as in driving or fixing? I have the same pump (Brand Spanking New) that I would have sold you for next to nothing but you were too fast on the draw. I didn't need it as I ended up copying how D H routed his setup.