Its not a long crank, its a hard crank.. Ever take a distributor car and give it too much/little advance? It will hit, then pause, then crank. That is exactly what mine is doing.
Timing can not be modified to cause that, you cant retard beyond 14btdc or advance byond 60btdc, neither would cause slam bang cranking. Your harmonic balancer would be the only part that could cause timing issues to cause a pause like that.
I have experienced the labored cranking when the crankshaft sensor was on its way out.
Interesting. If that's the case... Since that engine is possibly a mish-mash of different pieces, and the PCM isn't necessarily the one that came with the engine, I would be tempted to have a case learn performed, before I started looking for other stuff. (I know this is true of other engines. Assuming a 3800 is the same?)
Interesting. If that's the case... Since that engine is possibly a mish-mash of different pieces, and the PCM isn't necessarily the one that came with the engine, I would be tempted to have a case learn performed, before I started looking for other stuff. (I know this is true of other engines. Assuming a 3800 is the same?)
All a case learn is going to do is enable misfire detection.. It has nothing to do with base ignition. The PCM does not send much for timing modifications during start, and unless you made some EXTREME (bolded and underlined) changes its not going to cause the motor to start poorly.
Dude those new G8 wheels are the bomb! I am sure its not a 5x100 lug pattern though. :-( I would love to have those on my Fiero!
Breyton GTF2's and they are awesome!! Since I am painting the Fiero the same MGM color as the G8 (only in satin) I'd love to get matching wheels as well. Sadly, 5x120mm.....
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 06-20-2013).]
I went to pay for the alignment during lunch. They were able to sort it out no problem. Well, there was one problem. The LF upper ball joint's retaining bolts were completely stripped out. The guy couldnt believe that it made it to their shop! YIKES!!!!!! He replaced the bolts free of charge. Nice guys at Lamar's. Old school too.
LOL at Justin don't be hating on my baller wheels.
I was playing around with HPT and switched off closed loop. Guess what? The car started to idle much better. Imagine that! However, I also (prior to doing this) have P0133, P0717 & P1133 DTC's.
I like those wheels. Always preferred 5 (narrower) spokes. Especially gunmetal.
quote
Originally posted by darkhorizon: All a case learn is going to do is enable misfire detection.. It has nothing to do with base ignition. The PCM does not send much for timing modifications during start, and unless you made some EXTREME (bolded and underlined) changes its not going to cause the motor to start poorly.
Makes sense, I guess. I'll have to take your word. All I know about case learn is what I've read on the various forums, since everything I've messed with is OBD1. The general consensus seemed to be that if it's not correct, it can make the engine run poorly. Sometimes with a code/MIL, sometimes not. Just threw it out there, since I figured that it hadn't been done with that engine / PCM combo.
The very front hangs down a bit more than I like so the shop said if I remove that section and bring it in, they will take about 30mm out of the height. That should tuck it up a bit better.
Thanks Scott. Like I said before, its got this odd sound. I wasn't expecting it to sound anything like this. Man, I just want to get this thing tuned so I can fall in love with it all over again. Or set it on fire and roast marshmallows... either way seems as feasible as the other.
I was trying to sort out why 1st & 3rd are hard to engage. I pinned the shifter in 1st and went to adjust the cables and they are spot on. What I did find kinda worries me. Looks like I am going to have to stiffen up the shift brackets.
Thanks Scott. Like I said before, its got this odd sound. I wasn't expecting it to sound anything like this. Man, I just want to get this thing tuned so I can fall in love with it all over again. Or set it on fire and roast marshmallows... either way seems as feasible as the other.
Considering you looked at the datalogs yourself, and Chris Henry has as well, I'd say of course! You guys have both said pretty much the same thing. Only Chris went into much further detail. We are working on it. There may be a way around the closed loop issue. I had to send him a copy of my cam card. Though like he said, remote tuning isn't what the car needs. However, he agrees I need to get it "driveable" and put some miles on it before taking it to get professionally dyno tuned. I'd hate to trailer it to Jacksonville and have an issue arise that may have been found during the break-in period. I want to get about 500 miles on it first. Steady as she goes...
I'd also like to thank you and everyone else for their advice, input, and support along the way. Yes you too, even in your DH kind of way. LOL
Edit: Before I am asked yet again. I am taking the car to Mase. He has tuned several of my previous cars and I trust him. For that very reason, it is worth the 5hr drive.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 06-23-2013).]
GgGGGGrrrr RRRRR I am getting fed up with all these "tuners". How damn hard can it be to tune a freggen L67? Its always the same damn line(s) too. "Why did your last tuner do that"? "Its easy, it just needs XXX and YYY". OK so why cant anyone get this car to run correctly? Its just too far to take the car to Jacksonville (Mase) and hope everything goes well. With my luck, it will explode on the dyno. I have got to get this driveable so I can put some miles on it first. I just don't trust it otherwise.
Considering you looked at the datalogs yourself, and Chris Henry has as well, I'd say of course! You guys have both said pretty much the same thing. Only Chris went into much further detail. We are working on it. There may be a way around the closed loop issue. I had to send him a copy of my cam card. Though like he said, remote tuning isn't what the car needs. However, he agrees I need to get it "driveable" and put some miles on it before taking it to get professionally dyno tuned. I'd hate to trailer it to Jacksonville and have an issue arise that may have been found during the break-in period. I want to get about 500 miles on it first. Steady as she goes...
I'd also like to thank you and everyone else for their advice, input, and support along the way. Yes you too, even in your DH kind of way. LOL
Edit: Before I am asked yet again. I am taking the car to Mase. He has tuned several of my previous cars and I trust him. For that very reason, it is worth the 5hr drive.
The amount of "tuning" this car needs is very little. The stock ECU comes "pre tuned" for stuff like timing and fueling curves, as well as all the drivability stuff that you would "tune" on other platforms. The small tweaks required are just to really make it read more boost over the stock tune. The cam is not going to throw off anything on a maf sensor car, as it is big enough to ruin the stock O2 sensor system, but small enough to not cause cam reversion surge through the maf sensor.
Setting up the maf table slightly will get around the tricks, but they should be dead nuts from zzp's base file. The rest is most likely done as well.
Could I have an up to date "mod list" that I can reference? I really want to know what maf sensor is in the car, as well as any maf interceptors that are put on it. Also, could you send over the latest HPT read off the PCM?
Can you tell me more about the maf ? Stock tb? What year tb ?
The engine is a 2001 Regal GS (or so I was told). TB is a stock 98 GTP unit but someone removed the screen MAF is a replacement Delphi unit for the 98 GTP
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 06-24-2013).]
The 98 maf sucks... You are going to need to get a fixed afc to make any more than 10psi. I also do suggest getting the 01 style throttle body because I never tried to tune a 98 style before.
I'll go see if I can find one @ pick & pull tomorrow. How about a N* one? Tons of those in the yard.
If you cant get one you can make the 98 work. Either way I would suggest getting an AFC before even getting started if you have any illusions of making more than 350whp.