How much should we be paying for a 3800SC Gen II with computer and wiring harness?
Prices can be all over the place...I have paid as low as $650 for motor/trans and as high as $1500 for a 23k setup. If u wait and keep ur eyes peeled u can find a good deal.
GM crate engine. There is a bit of mystery surrounding what cam is in my car. I wont know anything till I get it out of the car.
First thoughts... it's stock. Though, that's me being under the impression that you received the car with the mock-up junkyard block in the place of a built engine you had planned on getting installed (vapor). Eh, we can hope it's halfway performance minded.
Looking at the pic makes me think... DAMN thats a big ATV! lol
Lol. I thought the same thing. I'm looking forward to seeing the new engine go in and seeing this beast on the road! I wish I was closer I'd offer to come help.
Away cmon man think positive dude. That motor is gonna freakin' wail and scream like a banshee and you are gonna crap your pants when you stab that long skinny pedal LOL....good luck dude!! Peace
Pete
------------------ "May the grins begin when you turn the key and hear the engine roar over your shoulder" ......Gall57 (slightly modified LOL)
My take on "high ratio" rockers is that they're a band-aid. They're designed to provide higher lift with an existing cam, without having to go into the motor and change the cam. They add variables that the cam/engine designer has not accounted for.
Especially in the case where the engine is out of the car and/or disassembled, just get the cam with the specs you want. Build the rest of the valve train to suit (correct springs and hardware. no binding or parts interference., etc.) and go.
(Having said all that... I know zero about 3800s. Just believe this to be true, in general. Certainly applies to the V6-60.)
Good luck with the new power plant.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 08-17-2013).]
A ST2 cam AND 1.85 rockers is too much lift for the springs, either the coils with bind or the retainers will hit the seals, and both are not good. As others have said, it was my impression as well that, at least on a 3800 if not most engines, you get either a cam, or rockers, not both.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 08-17-2013).]
A quick crunch of the numbers I am currently @ .512 lift (.320 tappet) with stock 1.6 rockers. With the 1.85 I would be bumped up to .576. So unless the "yellow" LS6 springs can handle more than .600 of lift, they are a no go. I also have a set of the blue LS springs as well.
Edit: looks like the LS6 springs are only good for .560-.570.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 08-17-2013).]
Trust me on this. Dont skimp out and use silicone instead of gaskets when installing a ZZP (or similar) w2a intercooler. Nothing short of a nuclear bomb is going to separate the intercooler from the intake. Holy %&#$!!!!! Knowing how much grief it gave me and Charlie to get them apart from when Dean and Bob the engine builder didn't know what gaskets were, I cant believe Charlie used silicone. Damn it!. I literally just had to unbolt the lower intake from the heads to get the entire assembly off the old engine. Wonderful.
Engine is out. I am about 1/2 way with swapping everything over to the new motor. I swapped in my ST2 cam (has 3311s engraved on the end) and got the valvetrain in place.
Here is a good question. Balance shaft to cam is dot to dot. That is the easy one. Eyeballing the cam to crank dots is a different story. I set the engine to TDC before I started the break down. I am 90% sure I have the cam to crank dots pretty close. its just hard to eyeball it since they are pretty far from each other. Only thing I can thin kto do is try a plumb bob or something. Suggestions?
Hey Scott you'll love this. The oil bypass spring was very sticky in the bore. I had to pull it out with pliers (old engine).
Before
After
Dots
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 08-18-2013).]
I thought the LS6 springs were plenty for the ST2? Otherwise, I would of had to go with 130# springs which forces you to run the double roller like you suggested.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 08-18-2013).]
You really {sort of} need 130# springs with the high exhaust pressures from the turbo. I can almost guarantee you will end up putting 130's in later on especially with the manual. You will want all of 6700+ rpm with your crappy gear ratios.
This is not a spec 3+ and it is NOT the correct fitment for the F23. Notice the PP has been ground down and its still hitting the inside of the bellhousing.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 08-24-2013).]
This is not a spec 3+ and it is NOT the correct fitment for the F23. Notice the PP has been ground down and its still hitting the inside of the bellhousing.
That is indeed a Spec Stage 3+. The Spec Stage 3 is a 4 or 6 puck style, the Stage 3+ is the solid face material. The Stage 4 is a Stage 3 with no springs, the Stage 4+ is a Stage 3+ w/o springs.
But, yeah that pressure plate should not have been used.
Time to get wrenching!!!!!!!! 
I also have a set of the blue LS springs as well. 
