If you're really worried about it then get the Super clamp plate. The damage is already done and it doesn't appear to be leaking so as long as it's not out of balance you could just leave it.
I had that exact same interference problem with the 3800/F23 I built, same pressure plate. That is why I just used a stock 282 pressure plate so I didn't have to grind a section of the case for clearance.
Those flywheel looks like Grade 8 bolts, just like the ones Justin had snap on him. I would suggest ARP.
I do need to get some correct flywheel bolts. I couldn't believe I found hardware store bolts. As for the clutch, I cant say that I trust it. It didn't feel like it slipped when I drove it, but I never got to launch it either.
That is whats holding my buddy's clutch to the flywheel and flywheel to motor. It worked great he beat the hell out of it but he blew the input shaft seal out. Now we need the pull the tranny.
[This message has been edited by 88lambofiero (edited 08-24-2013).]
Engine & trans are back together and mounted on the cradle. Hopefully I'll get the damn thing running this weekend and then I am pretty sure I am going to put the stock wheels on it and list it on ebay.
On a side note, angle cut Reactive exhaust tips are RAZOR sharp. I have a really bad cut on my right shin now. Rolled tips for this guy from now on.
Oh yeah.. sorry about the pics.. first time I ever hit the 10gb monthly limit on photobucket. Normal service should resume on the 1st.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 08-29-2013).]
Engine & trans are back together and mounted on the cradle. Hopefully I'll get the damn thing running this weekend and then I am pretty sure I am going to put the stock wheels on it and list it on ebay.
Engine & trans are back together and mounted on the cradle. Hopefully I'll get the damn thing running this weekend and then I am pretty sure I am going to put the stock wheels on it and list it on ebay.
On a side note, angle cut Reactive exhaust tips are RAZOR sharp. I have a really bad cut on my right shin now. Rolled tips for this guy from now on.
Oh yeah.. sorry about the pics.. first time I ever hit the 10gb monthly limit on photobucket. Normal service should resume on the 1st.
Just drove it around the block to burn off some of the oil & water. She is a bit smokey but that is to be expected of an engine thats been on an engine stand (upside down). So far, so good.
When do we get to see the "full boost tires-on-fire burnout"?
(Sorry. Had to. Best of luck with the new motorvation.)
LOL only if I can do it in a neighbors yard and then jump some "serious road obstructions".
Also, I got a DTC today: P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circ No Signal. That's a first for me! Unless I take a big chance and drive it to campus tomorrow, I wont be able to drive it anymore till Wens. I really like to go a little bit at a time, distance-wise, to build up my confidence after such a big job. I may just wait and take it up the street where DH and I had the tuning session. I think I'll let it idle for about 15min more and then change the oil. Just to be sure it has the best possible chance at a long, happy life.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 09-02-2013).]
Congrats man, Be careful with it for a bit while you get things sorted with the tune etc. Don't want to do this again I am quite sure LOL. Glad to hear it is running again. Peace
Also, they are easy to change in the car. Get new viton valve seals that zzp sells too.
x2 on turbo being wrecked.
"yellow" LS6 springs and unknown retainers. I am going to swap over the blue LS6 springs, ZZP retainers and ZZP valve seals from my old motor. That should do it. I just pulled the parts from the old motor.
You have to use ls1 retainers with those springs on a stock motor. You might have to use modded ls1 retainers with those springs and the ST2 cam.
Yeah, I should be safe with what I had before. It only knocked on the bottom end... not the top! LOL Also, I ordered some Prosport gauges last night. All defi style (amber) & electric, Boost 30/30, oil pressure & volts. They also come with visors to reduce glare. Amazon has them way cheaper than ebay right now & direct from Prosport. I'll put installing them in the AUX location with a 3 gauge panel I have had forever.
Uh oh... catastrophic failure. Either the balance shaft broke or the trans did.
Dibs on first bid when it goes up on ebay. Sorry to hear, people tell me I have the absolute worst luck with cars- but it looks like you may have me beat. This thing is cursed.
My buddy Rob and I swapped out the yellow LS6 springs and retainers. I installed blue LS6 springs and ZZP titanium retainers. We also installed the short ZZP valve seals. After that, the valvetrain noise was reduced but still there. It sounds just like a sticky lifter. So I figured a quick drive around the block would 1) burn off all the oil & water from the swap and 2) free up the lifter. Well, the smoke kinda comes and goes. Not sure about that one. The car pulls well, but the lifter tick didnt go away. I went to make a U-turn at the church and head back to the house. I have to say, it felt FANTASTIC to be driving the ol' girl. As I slowed down and downshifted to 2nd I heard a grinding/scraping kind of noise. It sounded like the parking brake cable was dragging. So I headed to the house. Under power it seemed OK but the gear changes werent as smooth. Then BAMMMMMMMM all hell broke loose. There is a nasty metal on metal clanking sound. Its NOT rod knock. I made a vid, I'll post it in a bit. I drained the oil through a coffee filter, it looked perfect. Here is the funny thing, if you just bring it off idle the noise pretty much goes away. it sounds like a bag of hammers in a drier @ idle. Rob thinks something let loose in the trans or clutch. Remember, the engine runs perfectly. If you have ever broke an axle, that is pretty much the sound its making. So out comes the F23 this weekend. If its broken (or the clutch) I am seriously considering putting the 4T65HD I have setting in the shed in it.
Like mentioned above, I just have no luck with this car. It IS cursed. I asked Jeff if he would buy me a set of lifters but he pretty much washed his hands of the engine. Whatever, its only $90 for a set of LS7 lifters from ZZP. So I got to pull the intake again. Remember its siliconed together so it has to come off as one piece. You know, because gaskets are so overrated. That mother*%^&^& might as well be welded, I aint getting the UIM away from the LIM.
LOL it wont be on ebay, it owes me way too much money to ever sell it. I even thought about throwing the LQ1 from Garths car in it but, now is not the time to make any drastic decisions. I just need to cool off and think about it.
One last thing. I got to say thanks to Scott aka DH for all the support with this car. You are A OK in my book. Not the jackass troll I assumed you were all these years. In all seriousness, if you want help with all things L67, Scott is your man.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 09-04-2013).]
I tried the upgraded lifters in my 3900 and they caused a lifter tick. They seem to require strong oil pressure to pump up and with the oil squirters and oil cooler the pressure wasn't there. I swapped stock lifters back in and no more problems. Unless someone with strong 3800 experience recommends them I would save the money.
The "LS7" lifters are the same part number as 3800 replacement lifters. We've never had any problems running stock stuff up here. Does the noise change when you push the clutch in? I wonder if you broke your timing chain tensioner.
The "LS7" lifters are the same part number as 3800 replacement lifters. We've never had any problems running stock stuff up here. Does the noise change when you push the clutch in? I wonder if you broke your timing chain tensioner.
Noise is constant. In gear, out of gear, clutch in/out. However, bring it up off idle and it goes from sounding like the thing is about to explode to normal. Riddle me that!
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 09-04-2013).]
Rolled tips for this guy from now on. 
I may do that too.
