Why didnt you have your wideband hooked up during this? Why didnt you have the narrowband disabled? I am becoming a bit worried already, you could have severely damaged something like that.
I didn't think max of 6lbs of boost and 2 sec of WOT in boost was going to do anything tragic as I was monitoring knock. I was testing if switching the PCM fixed the 0 power issue and if I could get into boost.
The car is still at the shop and is NOT done yet. I will properly tune it when it gets Home. I plan on running both a Narrowband and Wideband simultaneously.
antilag is easy. Just toss a switch inline with the air temp sensor so that it unplugs when you press a switch (the safer way is to have it "plug in" when you hit the switch, but you cant watch IATs). When it plugs or unplugs, command -49 degrees of timing in the air temp spark table... Just dont press the button without your foot on the pedal at least 30%. The switch has to be manhandled at all times so I mounted mine on my shifter.. press to lag, release to go, so I could use it in any gear, any speed... You could wire it to your brake switch as well if you wanted to make launching it a bit less reliant on your skill to pop your finger off the button when you lift the brakes.
Why didnt you have your wideband hooked up during this? Why didnt you have the narrowband disabled? I am becoming a bit worried already, you could have severely damaged something like that.
Cool, make sense but where in the Air temp spark table do I put the retarded timing? (High End 80*C or Low end -40*C)
Also, Since I currently don't have an Air Temp Sensor I assume the PCM used the High End 80*c witch retards timing and that would explain the low power output on my test drive!
I'm really amped now....I think you just helped me run a 10
I said it before and I will say it again, I don't care what no one says about you... you are all right with me.... as you helped me out tremendously with my build issues as well as I copied your basic design, I just tried to make it mo' prettier
But you could use some internet sensitivity training....O wait, I almost forgot you have a Troll Avatar....LOL
[This message has been edited by nosrac (edited 07-13-2012).]
Cool, make sense but where in the Air temp spark table do I put the retarded timing? (High End 80*C or Low end -40*C)
Also, Since I currently don't have an Air Temp Sensor I assume the PCM used the High End 80*c with retards timing and that would explain the low power output on my test drive!
I'm really amped now....I think you just helped me run a 10
I said it before and I will say it again, I don't care what no one says about you... you are all right with me.... as you helped me out tremendously with my build issues as well as I copied your basic design, I just tried to make it mo' prettier
But you could use some internet sensitivity training....O wait, I almost forgot you have a Troll Avatar....LOL
Agreed...... you guys crack me up. Just sitting here grinning and anticipating that high nine hehehe peace
NP, thanks you, If you guys didn't share first I wouldn't have a 3800 Turbo to COPY...LOL
Info sharing is what makes PFF great. Plus, I need to ask 100 questions so keeping it in the closet wouldn't do me or future DIY Turbo installers any good.
NP, thanks you, If you guys didn't share first I wouldn't have a 3800 Turbo to COPY...LOL
Info sharing is what makes PFF great. Plus, I need to ask 100 questions so keeping it in the closet wouldn't do me or future DIY Turbo installers any good.
Also, I like the ZZP race pellet idea much better than flashing a new tune on the track.
I would just put a random resistor in that registers like 30c, then "unplug" it for antilag. You can use a iat sensor just sitting in the engine bay instead of finding the right resistor. (google the ohms for the resistor if you want to do that)
I would just put a random resistor in that registers like 30c, then "unplug" it for antilag. You can use a iat sensor just sitting in the engine bay instead of finding the right resistor. (google the ohms for the resistor if you want to do that)
I have the 3800 IAT, and Adapter and planned on using a Normally closed switch that I would mount by the Cig lighter. Press tje switch to anti lag and spool her like a red headed stepchild.
I have the 3800 IAT, and Adapter and planned on using a Normally closed switch that I would mount by the Cig lighter. Press tje switch to anti lag and spool her like a red headed stepchild.
You will need to be able to activate it and deactivate it all 100% manually. I would highly suggest the shifter, or steering wheel, or something with easy access... its not like a "mode" you will enable its very organic.
LT1 and LS1 aluminum ended MAF sensors are the same up till 2002. Same part number is used on camaro from 1993 until 2002, and corvette until 2000. Also used in a variety of trucks, and vans. The corvette got the 85mm plastic MAF in 2000-2001, and camaro followed after.
------------------ 11.425 @115.60 Best 60' 1.543 seconds 3800 S/C 4T65E
New combo : Billet 6262 Precision turbo, PT1001 intercooler, ST1 cam, 130lb springs, comp pushrods, HV3, ARP Rod bolts, otherwise stock L36. 10.263 @ 134.44MPH
Worked on the tune some and turned up the boost from 6psi to 9psi. I am still trying to get used to the turbo as it is a very different animal.
I keep expecting to hear some whine or whistle or something but only thing I hear is the mellow exhaust note.
Spool is much better but I can't burn any rubber...yet. Maybe I need to start out in a lower gear?
How does the antilag work? That turbo probably wont make decent power untill your pressure ratio gets up around 14psi anyway... power per PSI is EXTREMELY exponetial in turbo setups as compressor efficency goes up the more pressure ratio you make (to a point anyway).
Its was not that easy to for me to spin tires in first gear on 15psi with my old T3 setup... even my all seasons... antilag and 15+psi really increased my tire melting ability.
How does the antilag work? That turbo probably wont make decent power untill your pressure ratio gets up around 14psi anyway... power per PSI is EXTREMELY exponetial in turbo setups as compressor efficency goes up the more pressure ratio you make (to a point anyway).
Its was not that easy to for me to spin tires in first gear on 15psi with my old T3 setup... even my all seasons... antilag and 15+psi really increased my tire melting ability.
I haven't hooked up antilag yet and might not need it. I turned up the boost a little more and I increased the low RPM timing and changed some PE settings as suggested by LFiero67.
Now I only read -2.5 vacuum instead of -8.5 and can get into a little boost from foot brake. Now I have some real power when I stomp on it and the acceleration is worlds better than before.
[This message has been edited by nosrac (edited 07-19-2012).]
It will be removed
