Well just as I figured. The old heads were totally trashed. The head porting was a first class hack job. It was so utterly terrible that it robbed the car of ALL its low end power and started leaking as soon it saw any real boost.
I told them to leave the heads alone but they insisted and told me he would send them to a head porting shop. Well they stayed in his shop and got butchered. I knew they were trash when I eyeballed them but my mechanic insured me they would be fine.....NOT I though they were still working them over and NOT a finished product because Stevie Wonder could have seen those were pure garbage.
The cosmetic gaskets did seal and my tune was fine.
Anyhoo the new shop is working away but I can't understand why he is doing extra work. Like removing rear brakes and draining IC coolant. Getting air out the lebarron brakes and the IC pump to prime was brutal.
Exactly...he has me very nervous but optimistic as there are some credible things he says. Like you can't effectively port head without a flowbench and whoever butchered your heads needs to be hog tied and pistol whipped.
Good things come out of bad situations all the time so if this shop screws it up then I hope to get a pity re-install from Mstangs or I'm sending it up there.
And the Kicker .... So I purchased ZZP stainless steel Larger turbo valves.....
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Sometimes larger valves can be installed in an engine to increase flow. However, the addition of larger valves should be checked on the flowbench when doing head R&D because larger valves can sometimes show a lesser flow due to an increase in valve shrouding. Heads with valves close to the periphery of the cylinder or engines with deep combustion chambers and small bores are prone to situation. This is because a larger valve can put the edge of the valve in close proximity to the combustion chamber wall, blocking the flow of air from the port or exhaust flow out of the port.
Airflow at low-valve lift is critical in making lots of horsepower because the valves spend more dwell time at low lifts and near their opening and closing points than at full lift. In simple terms, the valve is only fully open once per intake or exhaust cycle, but is near its seat twice, since the valve has to both open and close. That is the primary reason why a simple valve job can make so much of a difference in flow and horsepower.
Soooo....!!!
Wait for it....Pic to come !
[This message has been edited by nosrac (edited 03-20-2013).]
Correctly ported valves which are seated valves borrowed from member FieroAddicted.
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Another trick is to reduce the diameter of the valve stem directly under the head of the valve. The valve's stem is turned down a few millimeters, effectively shrinking the stem so it blocks less of the port
He could install/assemble complete kits well but the specialized skills such welding not so great and porting the heads he failed miserably at it.
They were trying to go all out but really didn't know what the hell they were doing. Building a high performance engine is a lot different than diagnosing and replacing stock parts.
I let them do their thing instead of dictate how, what, and why but that only works for people who know what they are doing and have done it before.
I tried to buy ALL bolt on stuff or take it to specialty shops, like a muffler shop to weld on the waste gate but they told me they could do a lot of it. (Doing it and Doing it well are NOT the same thing)
The few items I did take to specialty shops such as the BOV welded onto the intake were top notch jobs.
The not so great custom parts (low mount alt "kit)" and custom jobs (wastegate dump into the exhaust) will get redone.
If I ever do it from scratch again, I know the formula to make it very easy on the installer. A shop would basically bolt on the turbo "kit" with NO issues. Everything would fit perfectly and work as expected.
Member this...on 7-20 I fixed a vac line and turned up the boost to 11 psi and for the first and last time the Turbo put a smile on my face.
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Originally posted by nosrac:
The new turbo setup is NOT fast off the line or fast period off boost as it feels like a 2.8 with a TH125C auto. However, when the boost comes in very smooth, the acceleration increases which is totally different than a SC. The SC acceleration was constant until middle of second and then it fell off. With the Turbo, the acceleration rate increases and I haven't felt it fall off, which keeps you planted in the seat. This effect is even more pronounced when you turn up the boost, as it keeps pulling harder.
from a start 10 to 100 it's wicked insane velocity. A Hayabusa ain't Got $h!t on me.
Then the intake started leaking coolant like Niagara falls and I was back to Iron puke power.
If I ever do it from scratch again, I know the formula to make it very easy on the installer. A shop would basically bolt on the turbo "kit" with NO issues. Everything would fit perfectly and work as expected.
It is "ALIVE" but I need to do some minor work before I turn up the boost, hit the track, and make more zr1 kill videos. (fix oil leaks, add 88 tank, swap to S10 brake booster, Tune, etc).
Mstangs is coming over to help a brother out...
Since the CNC head change and correct plugs installed AL 103's I have gained about 100hp off boost.
PT 6266 spools very quickly and can finally spin those 18" shoes when the turbo hitz.
Can't wait until I turn it up the boost to 18psi+ cause the butt dyno says I can run 11.3 on the current setting of 11psi.
Just the seemingly little things ie. spark plugs (type, gap, heat range) make a hella difference.
The stock plugs and gap worked great for cruising as I had absolutely great fuel trims. In WOT they also broke the rear loose as soon as the turbo hit ~1.2 sec. However, spark blowout was horrible at anything close to 4K rpm and it did not let the car shift properly.
The AL103 don't hit as hard but I don't have spark blowout either. The trims are NOT spot on anymore but I will fix that when I tune it.
You have another problem if changing your plugs made something "not hit as hard"
You may b right. My testing results were definitely skewed before because of something was terribly wrong with the build.
It's NO telling what may be wrong as I get one issue fixed I find another. It could have been the colder weather or low trans fluid made it hit harder, I really dunno?
What I do know is that it did hit harder as I would break the rear loose every time. After, I got the plugs changed along with filling the trans fluid and a alignment.
It still Hitz just not as hard....lol
I don't have any scan data to back up my butt dyno claims. But it definitely hit harder.
Hell, I'm just glad my turbo hitz at all. It sure as hell didn't do that before.
I though they were still working them over and NOT a finished product because Stevie Wonder could have seen those were pure garbage.
That I thought my turbo 3800 suxed major azz.
