move the ATL to where the AC pump is and run a electric water pump will look super clean very short belt no loss of HP to compenents seen it done looks great
move the ATL to where the AC pump is and run a electric water pump will look super clean very short belt no loss of HP to compenents seen it done looks great
move the ATL to where the AC pump is and run a electric water pump will look super clean very short belt no loss of HP to compenents seen it done looks great
Swap is looking good man! Damn... the N/A top looks so much better than my L67 LIM/S2/Tophat.
FOr those of us with turbo's, is it ok to use the OIL level sensor location in the oil pan for the return line? IIRC the oil return needs to dump above the oil in the pan to prevent it backing up the hose.
Swap is looking good man! Damn... the N/A top looks so much better than my L67 LIM/S2/Tophat.
FOr those of us with turbo's, is it ok to use the OIL level sensor location in the oil pan for the return line? IIRC the oil return needs to dump above the oil in the pan to prevent it backing up the hose.
THX, it is going to look even better on Monday. Low mount alt, Black VC, and reversed Fuel rail. Your eyes should ONLY focus on the L26 UIM.
Swap is looking good man! Damn... the N/A top looks so much better than my L67 LIM/S2/Tophat.
FOr those of us with turbo's, is it ok to use the OIL level sensor location in the oil pan for the return line? IIRC the oil return needs to dump above the oil in the pan to prevent it backing up the hose.
No----The oil lever sensor hole is a no go IMO....The oil can not drain properly into the oil pan if oil is at the level it is supposed to be. This will cause oil to back up into turbo and ruin the turbo. If you have a pump added to the mix then I would say you could use it but I would just mount the return higher in the pan and more centered.....
I believe ZZP uses that hole on their kits. I don't see why it would be a problem if its below the oil line. It's not like we are dealing with pudding here. I bet when i'm under power for those 10 seconds there is oil up against the fitting and flowing backwards into the line.
No----The oil lever sensor hole is a no go IMO....The oil can not drain properly into the oil pan if oil is at the level it is supposed to be. This will cause oil to back up into turbo and ruin the turbo. If you have a pump added to the mix then I would say you could use it but I would just mount the return higher in the pan and more centered.....
Not true. In all the turbo builds I've done, I've plumbed the oil return line right into the oil level sensor hole. Never had an issue with oil not being able to drain out of the turbo. It does not matter where the oil level is at in relation to where you are plumbing your return line into AS LONG AS all the following situations are TRUE:
1) Oil can run "downhill" from the turbo to the pan 2) The turbo's oil outlet is higher than the nominal oil level in the pan (including where the oil level will be under full acceleration conditions) 3) There is NOT an abnormally high amount of pressure in the crankcase
-ryan
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[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 06-08-2012).]
Not true. In all the turbo builds I've done, I've plumbed the oil return line right into the oil level sensor hole. Never had an issue with oil not being able to drain out of the turbo. It does not matter where the oil level is at in relation to where you are plumbing your return line into AS LONG AS all the following situations are TRUE:
1) Oil can run "downhill" from the turbo to the pan 2) The turbo's oil outlet is higher than the nominal oil level in the pan (including where the oil level will be under full acceleration conditions) 3) There is NOT an abnormally high amount of pressure in the crankcase
-ryan
Good information to know as my only knowledge on the issie is from reading what others have done in the GP world. Good to hear from some one with first hand knowledge that can be trusted.
I believe ZZP uses that hole on their kits. I don't see why it would be a problem if its below the oil line. It's not like we are dealing with pudding here. I bet when i'm under power for those 10 seconds there is oil up against the fitting and flowing backwards into the line.
This is how ZZP runs the return with their 3800 turbo kit?
Ups and fedEx. Ordered head install hardware from ZZP. Also, ordered some replacement parts for dinged oil pan, damaged harmonic balancer from da rock.
I wouldn't recommend the filter on the top of that L26 intake, as the air that is taken in for that should be metered air, passing though the MAF, but before the throttle plate. I believe that is assuming you are keeping the PCV system.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-11-2012).]
I wouldn't recommend the filter on the top of that L26 intake, as the air that is taken in for that should be metered air, passing though the MAF, but before the throttle plate.
It's just a crank case vent. On the stock setup it uses that tube to draw in filtered air. Can't do that with a turbo setup. When he tunes it. The PCV air will be consistent enough.
The valve cover breather and that nipple filter all go to the same place...
Looking at your exhaust I am wondering if you had it jet coated or something before you wrapped it. I know that if it is mild steel and just painted the wrapping can promote rust and the pipes wind up rusting very quickly. That alternator mount is VERY basic and I am almost surprised at how simple it is. Maybe I need to look into fabricating a very nice custom CNC machined mount for these monsters on my VMC when it gets here. Sure seems like folks prefer to use the low mount setup. The motor sure is looking nice and I can't wait for that NINE man....hehe peace
I didn't put my alternator there. But, I guess, It is pretty close to the #1 primary on the other side. Might not have to worry about it. Just didn't know if the added heat from the turbo also in the same area would hurt the alternator. I would probably use a piece of the stock 3800 manifold heat shield and bolt it to the two manifold studs on #2. Just to reflect the radiant heat. The header wrap could be enough. Shoot it with a infrared heat gun after a good run.
Looking at your exhaust I am wondering if you had it jet coated or something before you wrapped it. I know that if it is mild steel and just painted the wrapping can promote rust and the pipes wind up rusting very quickly. That alternator mount is VERY basic and I am almost surprised at how simple it is. Maybe I need to look into fabricating a very nice custom CNC machined mount for these monsters on my VMC when it gets here. Sure seems like folks prefer to use the low mount setup. The motor sure is looking nice and I can't wait for that NINE man....hehe peace
Pete
Stainless steel on the Front, ceramic coated on the x-over, painted on the rear. Yes, very basic Alt mount and it leaves some room for a Top mount or cradle mounted dog bone. If you make it they will come. I need a Built tranny for that nine. However, I'm going for the for the cleanest and Fastest trapping turbo 3800 swap..
It's just a crank case vent. On the stock setup it uses that tube to draw in filtered air. Can't do that with a turbo setup. When he tunes it. The PCV air will be consistent enough.
The valve cover breather and that nipple filter all go to the same place...
True. I have the stock setup, so that's what I use right now.
Nevermind, sorry nosrac.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-11-2012).]
Mattwas car is a L36? WOW and here I was thinking why would you want to go thru the trouble of an engone swap and not make some power!!!! Hehe shows you whay I know I guess. Id say with that motor and a turbo and that f23 that would be a damn fast car...... nice you could do it in steps like that too if you could not afford everything at once. GO MATTWA!!!! HEHEHE peace
Haha. Yea a turbo is a better choice for the money and power, even more so when I already have the L26 intake and N/A heads, no supercharged parts. But yea I can do it in steps. Turbooo. Which turbo should I get?
...Lol
