Hi guys I go on this forum many times a day and have recieved loads of help so I think its about time to show you what I've learned . First the car its a 86 SE auto that I picked up for 500 bucks, the interior is great but the body is a lil rough and the drivetrain sucked so I decided to do the swap! I'm only 17 and got all this money from my job as a tech in a Hyundai dealership. Ive been working on this for a year now well I was in highschool, but now I graduated I made some big progress that I hope is build thread material. here ya go... Im doing several things at once to the car since I have it toatlly apart...**Swap 3800sc and 4t65-HD *Poly Suspension *Cut Springs *Shocks/struts *Interior *Wheels *Brake Swap *Tailight Mods *Custom Decklid *HeadLight Mod *Paint Everything and other misc.. Here's Pics sorry dont have many "Before Pics"
86 SE has just under 50,000 miles on her
Engine is a 99 GTP, with under 10,000 miles! totaled car
Trans is a 03 with 4,000 miles too!
Grand Am brake swap
Decklid, custom molded in, and has third brake light
new wheels, need to be cleaned up, 18x8.5? Front and rear
Engine out!
Engine bay painted Thats it for now stay tuned....
[This message has been edited by IanT720 (edited 09-05-2012).]
I Just got some more parts not in pictures Wiring harness (phonedawgs) PCM and tune (sinister performance) Axel (Mstangsbeware) a 120mph speedo poly bushings and SS gas lines
[This message has been edited by IanT720 (edited 06-12-2012).]
Got a lot done today, I cut a coil off the rear springs and repainted them bright yellow to go with the color my car will eventually be lol, finnaly got those control arms off and poly installed, cleaned and painted the tie rods, painted the grand am rotor hats, and other misc stuff.... I will take lots of pics tomorrow, and will be bolting the engine and trans onto the cradle if all goes well !
Here's some pics of the the springs, Painted with a heavy duty primer and john deer yellow, with 1 coil cut off... New and old (only the first coat in the pic)
Heat shields Painted
Installed
[This message has been edited by IanT720 (edited 07-05-2012).]
Thanks and as for the declid it uses hood pins at the moment, but I'm working on a simple hinge to lift it up and rest it on the roof, I will make a quick scetch for you
Alright well some of you may have heard but I broke the starter flange off the block from not lineing up the trans correctly I still have not got it welded but it is weldable, Im just spending my money on getting the hubs machined for now so I can at least get the front of the car done . heres what broke....
Anyway progress has been made I just finished cleaning/painting my kyb's and cut springs, they came out beautiful!.....
I also installed the new balljoints and controll arm poly into the cradle and will get shots tommorow, and will hopefully be finnaly done with the rear suspension tommorow also
Just some questions... Trans lines? Mine didnt come with fittings either?
What is the black box by the shifter that wires plug into on the trans, and where can I get one?
Do I need to blockoff a coolant passage and how?
And what is a good muffler, prefferably a little louder that works with out cutting the trunk routed the way most swaps are?
Thanks
I got my trans line fittings from a local LKQ junkyard and hose clamped hose to them. I plan to eventually do a trans cooler in the right rear quarter to eliminate the lines that go all the way to the front.
I have coolant info in my build thread. I used a 3/4" tap and plugged the small water pump inlet (this is holding up well) This was the heater core return. On 88 Fieros a tee is in the right side coolan tube, but for your 86 you will have to tee it in down there, it looks cleaner. My LIM outlet was tapped to work with a 3/4" NPT brass fitting.. I would figure out a better solution than the pipe tap. I'm not happy with how mine came out. I have a slow leak in my LIM fitting. I would use the LIM outlet to feed your heater core though so the top of the engine gets cooled properly. Some people use a modified Filler neck at the thermostat for that but I don't see how the heads get cooled properly if you block off the LIM outlet.
I used a Flotech Afterburner and it will fit in the stock location. It sounds very aggressive (loud) at the track which is nice. Im not going for comfort in my build as it is annoying on the high way.
Do you plan on addressing Bump Steer with you lowered springs? I don't know, is this an issue with one coil cut out? I was thinking about doing mine but i'm not sure.
Nice build! What does the scoop do? I am trying to figure out how you can use that as an intake for the S/C....but can't figure it out.
Thanks! It's comming along anyway, so it is an over roof scoop and the best way I figured to do it it would be more of a cold air intake and less of a ram air. I was planing on taking the bottom part of a square airbox and having it sealed in the base of the scoop then use flexible tubing to the throttle body, as for water maybe a J bend (water trap) and I can drain it after trips? That's the best idea I have so far, let me know what you think.
I got my trans line fittings from a local LKQ junkyard and hose clamped hose to them. I plan to eventually do a trans cooler in the right rear quarter to eliminate the lines that go all the way to the front.
I have coolant info in my build thread. I used a 3/4" tap and plugged the small water pump inlet (this is holding up well) This was the heater core return. On 88 Fieros a tee is in the right side coolan tube, but for your 86 you will have to tee it in down there, it looks cleaner. My LIM outlet was tapped to work with a 3/4" NPT brass fitting.. I would figure out a better solution than the pipe tap. I'm not happy with how mine came out. I have a slow leak in my LIM fitting. I would use the LIM outlet to feed your heater core though so the top of the engine gets cooled properly. Some people use a modified Filler neck at the thermostat for that but I don't see how the heads get cooled properly if you block off the LIM outlet.
I used a Flotech Afterburner and it will fit in the stock location. It sounds very aggressive (loud) at the track which is nice. Im not going for comfort in my build as it is annoying on the high way.
Do you plan on addressing Bump Steer with you lowered springs? I don't know, is this an issue with one coil cut out? I was thinking about doing mine but i'm not sure.
Thanks, and your still using the modified filler neck right? And yep that was the muffler I already had in mind, could you describe how it sounds, like throaty or mean? And as for bump steer I'm doing all poly and have the new low profile tires so even with the 1 coil cut I figure as far as bump steer goes a little better than stock. But as far as looks a coil cut will do wonders, and has the performance benifit of a stiffer ride/lower center of gravity. So IMHO I would do it again, and again. Thanks for the info
Thanks, and your still using the modified filler neck right?
No. I am using this with a stock L67 thermostat housing. You need to investigate the L67 cooling system more about the LIM outlet so you can make your own decision on how you want to plumb the coolant. The LIM outlet helps cool the heads. I ran it to the heater core and the return is Tee'd into the Passenger side lower coolant tube with one of these. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/...-TBI_Brass-Tees.html
I assume you're doing a low mount Alternator which would eliminate the bracket and plumbing through it for the heater core. ??
I'm on the fence about a low mount strictly due to budget, and I do plan on researching it a lot more when the time comes, thanks for the advice. And just clarifing if I follow your build thread I do not need a modified T-Stat, but if I do a low mount I have to buy it? thanks -Ian
So I lied, I had a ton of work to do for my grad party and just gave them to the local machine shop yesterday. Quoted me only 40 bucks for both and will be done by tomorrow (Friday). However I did manage to fix my rims, They are Konig 18x8.5's came with 5 brand new performnce oriented tires 235 rear, 225 front, but the rims themselves were pretty beat up, all had curb rash, lots of corrosion, and one had a slight bend, I fixed em with a dremel and elbow grease and a family friend is fixing the bend for me , I used 320, 400 wetsand, then gunmetal rim paint, and clear. Anyway Im very excited with how they turned out....
Before eww- After- Close up-
[This message has been edited by IanT720 (edited 08-16-2012).]
Also I started my custom tailights! I removed the white panel and cut another red lense to fit, I'm then splicing the reverse light bulb into the brake light harness so the whole panel lights up red, think of a NSX. There is still 5 inches of black where im putting reflective materail to help spread the light. I'm also going to wire up LED strips in the reflector wells as reverse lights, and finally I might use tint any sugestions?
Alright I so i recieved my hubs back but they were not machined enough so I should be able to grab em tommorow along with the caliper brackets. I also dropped my engine off at the welder to get the starter mount welded back on a 150 dollar mistake that im never going to do again :/. In the meantime I finished my 3rd wheel, The other has to get mounted back on the rim beforeIi want to paint it, here's a pic...
I finished my headliner today! So some of you may know but I had repainted my interior it was the ugly grey but I changed it to gloss black and flat black. I used the gloss on the dash and door panels and the gauge bezels. I used flat on the armrests and center counsel and trim, the two tone looks like it could be factory and totally modernizes the interior. I started out with the base board and cleaned off the foam with a course brush, and reinforced the weak spots with some scrap metal and hot glue... I got my headliner material from Joan's and spray tacked it on then used ductape just to insure it for the future... And here's the finished product! Here it is installed (bad lighting with flash) Thats all folks, let me know if you want more interior shots.
Great news! I got my starter mount re-welded back on my block, a 150 dollar mistake I will never do again, I went to Alexander Welding in Milan MI, He's a great guy and has experience welding blocks. Here's a pic...
I called the machine shop yesterday, He gave me the spiel of I was just about to work on your parts after I told him I wanted them done a week ago, anyway they should be done tuesday hopefully.
Lots of progress today! I got my machined caliper brackets back, they fit nice. I figured out why my torque converter wasnt seating but then got fixed that. I succesfully mated my engine and trans without the weld breaking! And I got my engine/trans mounts on from fiero X and did a test fit on the frame before I need them drilled! (nothing is level btw)
I suppose its time to talk about the look im going for with "Lola"... I'm really trying for it to be like a factory Prototype fiero let me explain... First off I'm rebadging the car as a Fiero GTX since there was never a GTX fiero but there could have been right? So I like to think if there was ever a fiero GTX this is how they would do it... The 3800 engine was around at the time, they could have always put 18's on it, They could have always added a bigger badder roof scoop, They could have had a special black interior, They could always have lowerd the car, they could have always modded the tailights for a different look, they could have always painted it Velocity Yellow (Corvette Z06 Yellow) and so on... So my nickname for her is Lola, but it will be officially a Fiero GTX.
[This message has been edited by IanT720 (edited 10-03-2012).]