Mitch, no, not specifically. I can send you details though!

Thanks SCCA!

That's a good time for a turbo 2.8. Congrats!

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88 Coupe: 2.0L Turbo 4 Cylinder, W2A, T25 Turbo.
84 Indy #64: Restoration Project!

Im impressed. Keep the great work going for future builds

Been getting a lot of question about the headlights so here's a copy of a PM I sent regarding details of them.

For lights I used Hella FF75 driving lights for low beams with upgraded bulbs...not sure of what I used though. I think they were Hella's 55w Ultra white or something like that. Hi-beams are PIAA 004XT driving lights with the original bulbs, which give off a nice bright white color. Both do sufficient jobs but I found that with the hi-beams on I was lacking light down at the side of the car going into corners, so that's why I added the full-time running lights which are Hella Optilux 2020. With those included I spent $300 total, since there were no other costs (no need for any controllers.) For wiring I just spliced into the stock H4 wiring which is 3 wires. Both ground wires from the hi and low beams went to the H4 ground and then each positive wire from the lights went to the corresponding H4 wire, one for the hi's and one for the lows.

For the buckets, I pretty much just cut the stock pastic bucket in half height-wise. This way it was the buckets "guides" still push the door up and my lights never get touched or pushed on. It's hard to see in the pics I took but I mounted a flat piece of 3/8" aluminum roughly 3" deep X the width of the bucket and bolted them onto the bucket. The lights had their own mounting brackets so I then just mounted them to the aluminum piece, although they needed about a half inch spacer to make them high enough to clear the hood-line from inside the headlight area.

Overall I'm happy with the output although if I were to do it again, I'd probably do some type of custom buckets using the 90mm Hella units, which can be had for ~$60 a piece. At the time I wasn't sure I'd have the fab skill to make them work and wanted lights that already had mounting brackets.

Here are some pics I snapped:

[This message has been edited by ConvictedRedneck (edited 08-27-2012).]

Just a little mod I added. The LED blinkers in the lamp housing get washed out when the running lights are on so I added these to make the blinkers more noticeable. They're cheapo chinese/ebay scrolling LED strips. The timing isn't perfect, but I can live with it. Each "blink" is just enough time to make the strip scroll once.

Just wanted to keep progress updated...

I installed a water/meth injection system that I pieced together for ~$200. Shurflo pump, 4 qt tank, adjustable pressure switch, all push-to-connect fittings, and misting nozzle/fittings from Mcmaster carr. I wired it into the switch I already have on my dash for my dual-stage boost controller, so when the switch is flipped on, the higher boost setting is activated and meth injection is supplied power. The misting nozzle is in my charge piping just before the TB. So far, I've been beating on it at 14...yes you read that correct, 14 psi and it's still alive.

Only problem is I have an occasional bad miss after 2nd gear (heavier load, more fuel?) under full boost around 3500rpm. Not sure yet if it's ignition, fuel, or something else.

Dual-stage manual boost controller and pressure switch for meth:



$60 Shurflo pump from Northern tool - 1.0 GPM 60psi:



Injection nozzle:



Happy switch:



Engine bay shot:

Nice work Ryan, I love seeing progress on this car. Hopefully I'll get a ride in it some day, the music it makes is too good! I bet you'd give my T/A a good run on the highway

Did you spray that through the nozzle to check the atomization? 60psi is not all that much depending on the orifice size in that nozzle.

It's a small nozzle--3.1GPH @40psi. Also, from what I read, the 60psi rating on the pump is just what the pressure switch is set at, not what it's capable of. I turned the switch up so it should be spraying at full force. As far as I could tell bench testing it, the atomization looked fine from the nozzle.

Yes!!! Thought I planned to leave my bald tires on for the next cruise so I could slide her around in the corners some more but I'll be eager to see how she launches with the Nittos! Not that I've ever even launched her before , last cruise every time I got on it hard it would bog and shudder. Hopefully that was just the ignition issue as everything else is tight and in order.

Can't wait!

This is exactly what I want to do with my notchback. What wheels are you running I really like them? I just built my engine and it is being broken in getting ready for a turbo setup. I have a compcams 260H though, which will be a decent turbo cam due to the intake and exhaust duration being the same.

quote Originally posted by zkhennings: This is exactly what I want to do with my notchback. What wheels are you running I really like them? I just built my engine and it is being broken in getting ready for a turbo setup. I have a compcams 260H though, which will be a decent turbo cam due to the intake and exhaust duration being the same.

Looking forward to another turbo 2.8! Best of luck! The wheels are SSR Integral A2's, 18x8 35ET all around. Unfortunately they don't make them anymore...they were a lucky find used on a VW forum.

I saw your post about the Boost Referenced-Rising Rate-FPR and was wondering if you are having running issues?

quote Originally posted by Hudini: I saw your post about the Boost Referenced-Rising Rate-FPR and was wondering if you are having running issues?

It's drivable but it's not perfect. Ryan was very generous and helped me get a few bugs worked out shortly after my 'one-year of tuning' expired but I still had some mechanical bugs I was battling so it wasn't perfect. Since then I've upped boost and added water/meth injection so it definitely needs a re-tune. My reason for asking about the RRFPR and injectors is because I just ordered the Moates Ostrich 2.0 emulator and Burn2 chip burner, so hopefully now I can change things around and tune as I go. Do you have any idea how a FPR like I posted would be installed in conjunction with the stock fuel rail?

Maybe I should try DIS on my turbo 3.4 (87 Mera). What is the real advantage of using DIS amnd is the desired result actually obtained?



Note that the intake location issue has now been corrected and is now fed by a functional side scoop and I have a Truleo intake in brushed chrome for future installation.

Nelson

[This message has been edited by hnthomps (edited 07-07-2013).]

You took the plunge and got an emulator, that is good. I bought the APU1 and use TunerPro RT version 4 for the software. (haven't tried ver 5 yet)

Now I couldn't get $8F to cooperate fully either. I got it running well enough at about 10psi but it never ran perfect. Since I also have an LC-1 wide band O2 I decided to try code59. This is a hacked version of $58 that the Syclone/Typhoon runs. code59 has been hacked to accept a wide band O2 input and a 3 bar MAP for boost to 30 psi. It also runs off the 7727 ECM. My car runs much better on this code. Maybe a coincidence but shortly after dialing in the fuel and cranking up the boost I broke my trans.

Now I'm running 30 lbs injectors on a stock FPR. To get the most out of it I'm looking at 42 lbs injectors like the 3800 guys.

If i were to recommend anything it would be to bump your stock fuel pressure a bit with some coins on the back side of the spring inside your stock FPR. You have enough variables going on without throwing fuel pressure into the mix. Fuel pressure is like the Base Pulse Width in the code. Set it once and forget it. Maybe bump it to 50 psi but no more. Get you a LC-1 or equivalent and KNOW if you need more fuel.

Sweet ride! Did you change your steering wheel? what kind?