Oil return is in, 2 sensor bungs are in. Just waiting for the tuned chip to arrive and I will start the install. Now that the hard stuff is completed by others it looks like a piece of cake....
True, but the GN was only offered in an AUTO trans. This makes a HUGE difference. If the OP's car is an automatic, I wouldn't bother with a BOV either. However, for low boost (6-8psi) I am not sure I'd say a BOV is mandatory either. It does sound cool though.
My car is an automatic and I will be pushing low boost, but regardless I will have a bov. It sounds cool and so does the turbo that's why I got it in the first place. Maybe I coulda just bought a whistle and a can of compressed air. Lol
Yes Rick everything is good just can't stop shopping turbo parts while I wait for my chip... I picked up a grimmspeed boost control An eBay blow off valve And a couple of these in red because blue just don't blend... I think I'm ready to install now. I will call with any questions, thanks again.
[This message has been edited by JCircs (edited 10-01-2012).]
Yes that's him, also can contact him thru Boostedexhaust.com his name is Rick and so far it's been a pleasure. Answers calls, text's and emails to answer any question, and I've had a lot of questions.... I will be installing mine this weekend.
So I started playing with the install today seems to be going ok but can someone post a pick of the correct oil line to tap my tee into. I think I'm at the oil sending unit but want to be sure. Kinda in the middle now so a quick picture would be appreciated.
[This message has been edited by JCircs (edited 10-04-2012).]
So I started playing with the install today seems to be going ok but can someone post a pick of the correct oil line to tap my tee into. I think I'm at the oil sending unit but there are 2 lines. Kinda in the middle now so a quick picture would be appreciated.
There is only ONE oil line going to the oil pressure sensor. What I do is remove the sensor( hold sensor fitting below with wrench and use another wrench on hex nut on sensor bottom only or you will break it), screw in a T fitting using a coupling, then put the sensor back on top and use the side T for the oil line to the turbo. On my install the T is for a flared hard line that runs to the top of the turbo where the oil intake is. Don't have pics to post right now but will as soon as I install the anti-virus on my new desktop and can go online with it again
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 10-04-2012).]
Yes Dennis my bad those were the gas lines lol.... Ok so I spent about 2-1/2 hours installing the turbo today and I guess it went ok but I see a few issues. The first is the wastegate, it's touching the cruise control module, I will need to slide the cruise bracket over a bit to clear. I also needed to remove the heat shield from the coil to clear the wastegate. hope that's not an issue? The original kit came with an internal wastegate and I probably would not have had this issue if I kept it simple.... I guess this kit also would fit better on a manual transmission because my auto shift cable is right up against the bottom of the turbo compressor, I hope that's not gonna be an issue with heat. You can also see in that picture that I added a blow off valve (bov) to the kit. With his pipe it worked fine but with the bov it interferes with the tension bar for the trunk. You can kind of see the shift cable under the turbo here. The red hose over the top is not yet connected or routed, I need to locate the oil sending unit. The kit came with the adaptors and a T to make the connection just need to locate its home. I guess I will hit it again tomorrow...
Welcome to the world of automotive plumbing. Whenever you do an aftermarket turbo install it is common to run into fittiment issues. First off do the crossover pipe flanges mate with the exhaust manifold properly and inline?? If the answer is no, readjust the crossover and it might just move away from the waste gate enough. . If yes then some fabrication has to be done to the cruise control servo bracket or you can slot the bracket mounting holes with a Dremel tool and move it back 1/4" away from the waste gate. . The install is looking excellent. When ready to check for any possible oil or exhaust leaks, you can start the engine with the stock chip. Just don't change the MAP sensor or drive until you install the custom turbo chip and 2 BAR MAP..
BTW, get the BOV turned sideways as it will interfer with the deck hinge if left like that.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 10-04-2012).]
Yes the crossover lined up perfectly and pretty much held itself in place while I put the bolts in. The downpipe from the turbo also lines up nice with the exhaust. I deleted the egr and installed a blank plate and gasket from TLG without removing the upper intake. I was told to hook the vac line from the bov to the vac line on the upper intake, what do I do with the vac line that was attached? Also now that I removed the egr where does the vac line from there now go?
Edit to add: yes Dennis it does interfere with the tension bar no matter how I twist it. The way it is in the picture it will not interfere with the trunk but it will hit the tension bar, looks like I will need to order the strut.
[This message has been edited by JCircs (edited 10-04-2012).]
Yes the crossover lined up perfectly and pretty much held itself in place while I put the bolts in. The downpipe from the turbo also lines up nice with the exhaust. I deleted the egr and installed a blank plate and gasket from TLG without removing the upper intake. I was told to hook the vac line from the bov to the vac line on the upper intake, what do I do with the vac line that was attached? Also now that I removed the egr where does the vac line from there now go?
Edit to add: yes Dennis it does interfere with the tension bar no matter how I twist it. The way it is in the picture it will not interfere with the trunk but it will hit the tension bar, looks like I will need to order the strut.
BOV just needs manifold vacuum. Don't use the vacuum line from the EGR as it is controlled. I just purchased a plastic T and took the vacuum off of the supply of one of the hoses that had vacuum along the trunk wall.. If this is puzzling I can look at it and let you know . If you are wondering what to do with the controlled vacuum line to the old EGR, just remove it and put a hose cap on the nipple end where it connects. As for installing a lift strut; don' t feel bad. On my supercharger/IC install both lift struts had to be removed. On my turbo install lots of fabricating was needed to clear the tension spring. IMPORTANT: There is a technique for removing the tension spring that must be followed. Otherwise you risk breaking the rear window or even breaking a finger. You leave it attached to the deck lid. Then you must pull back on the end of the tension spring where it rests against the hinge support. A big strong assistant and a ratcheting tie down strap can be used. I use the ratcheting strap and attach the other end to something very heavy like my cherry picker. You pull away the tension spring and hold it. Next you tap out/pull out and remove the holding pin and release the tension. After that, the bar can be worked loose and removed. ------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 10-05-2012).]
Thanks for taking all those pics - please keep them coming! The turbo looks like it fits well in there.
One question:
The cross-over pipe: Are you going to fabricated something up to add extra support due to the weight of the turbo?
From researching through the archives, some say that it should be supported (or have enough flex) to deal with the everyday bumps and pot-holes on the road - to minimize any risk of cracking the manifold flanges or cracking the cross-over pipe.
...or does the cross-over seem strong enough (with the down-pipe to the stock exhaust) to hold the weight?
Thanks for taking all those pics - please keep them coming! The turbo looks like it fits well in there.
One question:
The cross-over pipe: Are you going to fabricated something up to add extra support due to the weight of the turbo?
From researching through the archives, some say that it should be supported (or have enough flex) to deal with the everyday bumps and pot-holes on the road - to minimize any risk of cracking the manifold flanges or cracking the cross-over pipe.
...or does the cross-over seem strong enough (with the down-pipe to the stock exhaust) to hold the weight?
I would recommend some kind of support bracket going down to the trans. My custom install uses a "floating spring" bracket that provides support and allows movement.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Just ordered the strut kit for the decklid from Rodney, now I just need to remove the tension bar without breaking the rear window.
In case you didn't see it, here it is again. You can easily break a finger using the wrong technique. If you are still not certain how to do it just give me a call.
The torsion springs for the deck lid are held in place under considerable force. There is a technique for removing the tension spring that must be followed. Otherwise you risk breaking the rear window or breaking a finger. Leave it attached to the deck lid. Then pull back on the end of the tension spring where it rests against the hinge support. A big strong assistant and a ratcheting tie down strap can be used. I use the ratcheting strap and attach the other end to something very heavy like my cherry picker. You pull back the tension spring and hold it back. Next you tap out/pull out and remove the holding pin and release the tension. After that, the bar can be worked loose and removed. BTW, all of Rodneys products are top notch and that includes his lift struts. They make the deck lid look like it came with them. You won't be disappointed.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
As of now Dennis I have not yet touched the tension rods, I'm a little scared of them things lol... But I did finish the install today, I was able to get the cruise control moved back about an inch off the wastegate. I also learned 2 important things, 1 the turbo is getting oil. And 2 always use a hose clamp no matter how tight the oil hose fits over the nipple.... Lost about half a quart but at least I know it's getting oil. Now to my issues, after I completed the install I started the car with the stock chip and map sensor and it ideld perfect gave a little gas and heard that nice whistle I was looking for, a little drowned out buy the loud exhaust that's not yet welded but purred like a kitten. I then installed the 2 bar and sinister's chip and tried to start the car again, it will only run with my foot on the gas and RPM' s at about 2k. I feathered the gas to keep it running for a few minutes but no change. My first question is about the 2 bar, it is identical to my stock how can I tell the difference? Also I was told that the plug needed to be altered but it went right in. Any idea's? I need the car to at least run so I can get it to the shop to weld the exhaust and get A/F readings. Also I have no idea how I'm getting an air filter on this thing. Here are a few more pictures.
A diverter valve can serve as an alternative to a BOV. It's true that many factory turbocharged engines don't utilize BOV's but a majority use a diverter valve to reroute pressurized air back into the intake tract.
Thats kind of why I said it needs some kind of venting, not necessarily a BOV but it needs something. I guess you have to speak word for word or the meaning just flies overhead.
What are you going to use for an air filter? Give us a pisture with it insalled also. Looking good be certain to post how it ruins when you are finished, there seems to be several people here thinking of doing it also. I am cusrious, why can't the oil return line be simply go to a valve cover instead of having to pull the oil pan? Will the hot oil from the turbo raise engine oil temperature?
[This message has been edited by oldbikeracer (edited 10-06-2012).]
Today I removed the tension rod for the deck lid, I went with the ratchet strap technique. That worked to remove the pin and release most of the tension but I used my sons bat when removing the screw just in case. It worked well but since I only removed the drivers side bar I needed to take out the dremel and slice it up in three parts for easy removal. Once that was done I went to home depot and found a nice 3 inch metal flex hose from a hot water heater and mounted it from the turbo to the air box in its original location. It looks like stainless steal, I think it looks great. Sorry no picture till next week, the car was just picked up on a flatbed. The oil supply line that goes to the turbo poped off again while running the car in the garage and I'm not going to take any chances with these flimsy hose clamps and rubber hose. The nearby shop will make and install a braided line to fix that problem and also weld the exhaust and add the second bung for my A/F gauge that I thought was already welded. I still have not a clue why the car won't run, I drove it around the block but I just had to keep feathering the gas tap tap tap on the peddle and could not get over 30 mph, I did not push hard at all just lightly tapping the gas til it cutout and tapping again. Hopefully it's just a tune issue that Ryan could figure out. It could also be the wide open downpipe, that's why I had the car towed now. I want to rule out the open exhaust and also be able to give Ryan air to fuel ratios when I speak to him. So until next week thanks to all for your input it has been extremely helpful.
I still have not a clue why the car won't run, I drove it around the block but I just had to keep feathering the gas tap tap tap on the peddle and could not get over 30 mph.
quote
Originally posted by JCircs: after I completed the install I started the car with the stock chip and map sensor and it ideld perfect gave a little gas and heard that nice whistle I was looking for
There you go...Put the stock chip and map sensor back on and just do get into boost.
If the turbo chip and 2 BAR MAP don't work together to run the engine, then either one could be bad. The car should run right out of the box. Me thinks that he might have the wrong MAP sensor. Should be GM part number 2131520 the same one used on the 87 Turbo Sunbird w 2.0L engine.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Well this car won't do 30mph and stalls if I take my foot of the gas. I tried to make the 10 mile trip to my friends shop and couldn't make it off the block. Hopefully after the exhaust is welded up it will make it back home. I will have them check the voltage on the map sensor to figure out if its a 2 bar. I'm told that's the way to tell the difference? I guess I'll find out Monday, for a guy that never even did an oil change I got pretty far..... My wife thinks its funny that the flatbed showed up today, wudda ya gonna do.....
