Ok I figured that's where it was hiding, just wanted to make sure. Clamps...depends if you trust the seal of just pushing them on. Remember these lines will have 7psi of pressure behind them.
I'm impatient that's why Mattwa! BV that's the way it came connected outta the box. Thanks for the compliment, I hope to be cleaning it up alot better if I can get it to run, I'd also like to add one of those useless strut tower braces in red or chrome.
You have the wrong MAP sensor. The 2-bar will NOT plug in. What are the numbers on your map sensor?
Make sure you use zipties on those wastegate lines. Are you using the manual boost controller, or just running off spring? You can run the turbo to the bottom wastegate like you have now, but you also need to T into the top port with your controller. Also, it looks like you still have your EGR solenoid hooked up, and you're running vac to your BOV from the egr line. I would delete that stuff (since your egr is gone) and run your bov from a different source.
Edit, stole this pic from Gnttype..
[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 10-08-2012).]
Right now the turbo came set for 5lbs of boost, I have not yet connected my manual controller. I want to get it running and my gauges hooked up before I start messing with added boost. Yes my Egr is gone, blanked off at the manifold and deleted on my chip. The plastic Egr vac line was just put on the bov to get outta the way till I got a plug to cap it and a T to get vac from the manifold. Also I was told by Rick of Boosted Exhaust that I only need to attach the manual boost controller inline with the single vac line from the compressor to the turbo, and I did not need the upper connection from the wastegate ( that I never received ). I looked online and found that it should also work like he said. I have not yet heard from the shop where the car is now, I'm waiting to hear the voltage from the sensor. I'm praying its a 1 bar.
Without the top port, you can't run more than spring pressure. Think about whats inside a wastegate. You have exhaust gas trying to push against a diaphragm with a spring on the other side. Once the pressure of the exhaust overcomes the spring pressure, the gate opens, allowing exhaust to be routed around the turbo. Putting 'boost' pressure to the bottom of the spring only helps to 'open' the valve earlier. If you put boost pressure to the top, you have pressure 'helping' the spring keep the valve closed.
(another stolen image)
[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 10-08-2012).]
Isnt 2 bar a nessecity for car running more than 14.7 lbs of boost?
That is a 3 bar. 1 BAR is for a normally aspirated engine 2 BAR will handle a forced induction up to 14.5 psi of boost 3 BAR will handle a forced induction up to 29.0 psi of boost
[This message has been edited by nosrac (edited 10-08-2012).]
That is a 3 bar. 1 BAR is for a normally aspirated engine 2 BAR will handle a forced induction up to 14.5 psi of boost 3 BAR will handle a forced induction up to 29.0 psi of boost
I considered that.
Thanks! It's nice to be corrected gracefully once in a while.
Bad news... The map sensor is putting out 2.2V, it is a 2 bar and the car won't run.
Then it must be the chip program. Make sure that you did not bend any pins upon insertion in the ECM. Does the detent in the chip line up with the detent in the prom holder? Then re-confirm that darth programmed it for a 2 BAR MAP. You use a different definition code to program for a 2 BAR MAP. If worse comes to worse I can get my programmer up and running again and run off a copy of my 3.4L turbo chip but I'll need some time to do it. I just purchased a new computer that doesn't have serial ports for my pocket programmer and a new programmer is required I just purchased the new eprom programmer and it should be here soon. If it were myself I would still replace the MAP with an AC Delco 2 BAR unit. The voltage test isn't absolute. It doesn't check on the across the board operation. BTW are you sure that the MAP is connected to manifold vacuum? There is a rubber elbow underneath it where tha hose elbow attaches. BTW, do not drive the car unless the engine is running correctly. To do so invites damage. ------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 10-08-2012).]
Well I think Dennis LaGrua just figured out my issue. Can anyone please confirm? When I had the O2 sensor bung installed the downpipe was not on the car, when I installed it I found the bung was to low and the wire couldn't reach so I tied it up and finished the install. After the install was complete I attempted to drive to the shop without the O2 sensor connected and the car wouldn't run. Would this be the cause? Man I hope so.......
The lack of a working O2 would mean the car stays in Open Loop. The car should drive like any other cold engine. You have something else going on. Are you running a distributor or DIS? When I had Darth first program my chip with $8F he used the distributor config and the car wouldn't run as I had DIS running. He fixed it quick and it ran ok as we started the tuning process.
Not sure if it was mentioned, but did you reverse the wires to the MAP sensor? I did my turbo so long ago I can't be 100% certain, but I am pretty sure I had to swap a couple of the wires at the plug for the MAP sensor when I went to the 2 Bar MAP.
[edit] It looks like I did not switch the location of the wires. I only had to remove the wires from the green plug and put them in the orange plug to fit the 2 Bar MAP.
Also, you might want to support the weight of the turbo. Mine has a bracket that bolts to the transaxle and is pretty beefy. Does that crossover have a flexible bellow in it?
[This message has been edited by SCCA FIERO (edited 10-09-2012).]
Car went into the shop to have the pipes welded and o2 installed. On the lift they noticed the manifolds had separation where they met the turbo header pipe. In order to lower it for a proper seal I need to customize the kickdown/TV cable on top of my auto transmission. Also the downpipe was very tight against the firewall putting to much pressure on the A/C lines behind the heat shield. Rick at boosted offered to correct those issues and ship out the tweaked pipes but I'm impatient and just had the shop correct everything. The problem I was having with the car not running was a glitch in Sinisters chip that he fixed, the car now runs very smooth. I should be taking it home tonight. We were waiting for the stainless braided oil lines lines for the turbo to come in. My lack of patients was almost disastrous, before adding the stainless lines I used a set of good hose clamps (not the Cheap ones) on the supplied rubber oil feed line and took a short drive nice and easy just to feel it out. Yup you guessed it, I blew the hose right off the turbo shot oil onto the header and that's when the flames started. Yes these things do catch fire. It was quick and really caused no damage except the paint under the deck lid and a mild heart attack, the paint will be fixed the heart, 2 shots of Patron and a Grey Goose and 7 and I was good to go. For two days now they have been cleaning the soot and chemical from the fire extinguisher off the entire engine bay. Man this has been an experience I must say, And its becoming an expensive one at that. All in all I gotta laugh it coulda been worse. Man I love this F^*€ing car.... Stay tuned
Wow I'm glad that it wasn't any worse than that!! I'd have a heart attack too, good thing you had an extinguisher with you
Happy to see the kinks getting worked out, I look forward to seeing you and the car at the next cruise- that is if both our cars are ready . You seem to be having better luck than me haha.
Many of you can thank JCIRCS for his pioneering efforts in getting this new turbo kit installed. I've been in contact with him and as you can see from his posts its been a rough road. The kit looks great and I expect that the end result will be excellent but for those considering a purchase of this kit; it appears that several tweaks to the kit will be needed before it can be considered a true bolt on installation. It sounds as though the engine is now ready for the final tuning.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
hey hopfully everything is going good now as for the oil you can do the oil to the valve cover but you need to run a scavenge pump but on the fiero it is very easy to weld on a bung without removeing it.
I am still confused about the oil return line ? Isn't the oil from the engine under pressure to the turbo? Seems to me that if is under pressure to the turbo it would also have positive pressure from the turbo, so return line would have engine oil pressure also. This would not require a scavange pump to return the oil to the vavle cover as it would be under pressure. Looks like everyone is saying that all oil pressure is lost in the turbo? I do not know much about a turbo, just wondering.
I am still confused about the oil return line ? Isn't the oil from the engine under pressure to the turbo? Seems to me that if is under pressure to the turbo it would also have positive pressure from the turbo, so return line would have engine oil pressure also. This would not require a scavange pump to return the oil to the vavle cover as it would be under pressure. Looks like everyone is saying that all oil pressure is lost in the turbo? I do not know much about a turbo, just wondering.
The seals in the turbo are not designed to hold back any significant amount of oil pressure, so you want as little restriction in the return side as possible. If you have positive pressure on the return side you will likely pump oil past the seals and have a smoke monster.
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 10-20-2012).]
If you want to drop $250 on a good pump... if not, gravity drain.
The all metal red, blue and black series Holley fuel pumps work very well in this application also with the pump screen removed for much less than half the price and are much easier to come by in the event of a failure. I still have mine on the car although it's not being used at the moment as an alternative.
Well, I had a faulty wastegate that kinda held up the process, Rick from boosted sent me a new one and I installed it yesterday. I took it for a quick drive keeping the RPM's under 3k just to make sure this wastegate was OK. I definitely feel the the added power already, and the turbo sounds real cool. Now that all is ok I can continue the tuning process. Stay tuned
Well, I had a faulty wastegate that kinda held up the process, Rick from boosted sent me a new one and I installed it yesterday. I took it for a quick drive keeping the RPM's under 3k just to make sure this wastegate was OK. I definitely feel the the added power already, and the turbo sounds real cool. Now that all is ok I can continue the tuning process. Stay tuned
Really I was just getting into boost @ 3K with my 3800 and 6266 .81AR.
@nosrac not sure why 11 on the wideband, it usaully idles around 14-15 but like I said the tune needs to be completed, it is running rich tho. As far as the spec's not really sure but I may have been over 3k when I heard the turbo. I just needed to see if the new wastegate held boost, the original dumped as soon as boost was present.
------------------ 1986 Fiero SE 2.8 Auto - Blackie 1985 Fiero GT 2.8 4-spd - Goldie II - To be driveable this season 1985 Fiero SE Targa - 3.8SC - long term project 1987 Cavalier Z24 2.8 5-spd - daily beaten driver 1993 Bonneville SSEi - 3800SC donor for 85 Targa
. You seem to be having better luck than me haha.
