Can I drop mine off? I ency you 3800 turbo guys. Nice job
I'd be more then happy to sell my rebuilt trans and what not to do this to mine
------------------ 3800 SC/IC Formula whines more than your girl... 08 Cobalt SS TC - ZZP tuned, K&N SRI, 6k HID's 13.31@107 07 HHR - Wifes (tried to have her get the SS)
keeping it out of the archive, only a few more months until racing season!
I'm thinking about buying an 87-88 coupe and switching the body out and making it look like a Formula. I change my mind too much...
I would glady take your money if you were closer... I am always jealous of my car buddies that give their "builder guy" half their paycheck every week like a crack addict....
I have a nice coupe body I would love to trade bodies with!
I would glady take your money if you were closer... I am always jealous of my car buddies that give their "builder guy" half their paycheck every week like a crack addict....
I have a nice coupe body I would love to trade bodies with!
Luckily fieros are so cheap, you could build a fleet of them for the price of 1 new sports car lol.
I'm leaning towards keeping the aero body now, I looked at an 87 coupe today and it didn't look better then what I have (to me).
How is the "anti-lag" setup? does the momentary switch just interrupt the IAT sensor or does it actually go through a resistor? is the PCM just programed to not report any IAT codes? and how much timing are you pulling for anti-lag? Thanks for any input.
How is the "anti-lag" setup? does the momentary switch just interrupt the IAT sensor or does it actually go through a resistor? is the PCM just programed to not report any IAT codes? and how much timing are you pulling for anti-lag? Thanks for any input.
Its just a IAT interrupter. There are timing tables that use the IAT sensor. The way this car is set up it's normally an open circuit. There is no input from the air sensor so the PCM reads it as -39*(?) All normal timing is based on that temperature. When the switch is activated it closes the circuit and you get an actually air temp reading. So anything above -39* will switch to the "antilag" table. We started at -14 (max I believe) and it seemed happiest at -6 timing. At -14 it didn't want to load up the converter easily. It can be done either way but this way if the IAT sensor fails for some reason the car won't be put into negative timing making it undrivable. Can't remember if DH removed an IAT code or not.
I have my car at -14 but since it's a manual there it is never loaded below 2500 rpm when antilaging. When unloaded (neutral) I can make positive pressure and the turbo will start screaming. (I'm a ricer/show off at heart) When roll racing on the highway I can hit the antilag switch making full boost while maintaining the agreed upon starting speed without using my brakes. When I let go of that button magical things happen. Some people 'brake boost' achieving a similar effect but I get a better "launch" from the antilag.
Formula - you need to update this thread from your last track visit
IAT code has to be removed for best operation. If it throws a code strange things happen. If you used a resistor it should work without having to remove the code..... Removing the code was always the easier option lol.
[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 05-06-2014).]
Glad I put the RonCo all weather tune on this car.. set it and forget it!
I was surprised how well that car liked 93 octane up over 22psi. What boost was the 131 pass on?
21psi
Launched at 3psi off the anti-lag (1/4 throttle), it dead hooked and took off. I could definetly cut down the 60' some, but I'm pretty happy with how it did.
Mph doesn't win races, unless you race a supra lol. I compete with my car heads up, so ET is important, but yeah, it's hard on parts...
I ran mid 1.5 60' times for years with the M90, on a 7/8" chain and 4340 input shaft. Broke 1 input sprag with the M90. Turbo setup 60' harder than the m90 does, and that's where the issues have been. 1.55-1.60 probably isn't going to hurt much. If boost was kept low for the first second of the run it would probably live. I have only been breaking stuff since I got more aggressive with the boost ramp (ie below 2 seconds). Ran 1.49 60 with boost going from ~5 psi to 19 in 2.2 seconds. Breakages have been with boost coming in in under 3/4 second. I will probably be backing that down to around 1 to 1.2 seconds and see how it responds.
[This message has been edited by LFiero67 (edited 05-07-2014).]
The one in that picture came with the car and it was terrible. It was an over complicated flipper system. I ended up making something different. I think someone does make the proper bracket though.
I think the cable end melted and formula had to replace the cable and add some heat shielding. Right?
The one in that picture came with the car and it was terrible. It was an over complicated flipper system. I ended up making something different. I think someone does make the proper bracket though.
I think the cable end melted and formula had to replace the cable and add some heat shielding. Right?
I replaced it with a wcf cable with metal ends.
[This message has been edited by Formula (edited 02-21-2015).]
That would make ya some $$$ in certain "circles".... 
