I know AL is better for a number of different reasons if you can hook while launching under boost but I gotta ask...Why not 2 step for some sweet ass fireballs?
You can't cut spark without cutting fuel with the 3800 pcm. You could get a stand alone ignition system. I think Jcomutt did it.
I don't think there is anything engine specific about them (they just cut power to the ignition coils)
Not that easy. Unfortunately spark is fuel and fuel is spark.... the only possible way to cut the coils off is to run a spacer under the coil packs that you can intercept the signal with.
A standalone with a KILLER spark pickup could gain a significant amount of power over 6000rpms assuming you have the heads for it as timing drift is really bad with 3800s.
Originally posted by darkhorizon: Not that easy. Unfortunately spark is fuel and fuel is spark.... the only possible way to cut the coils off is to run a spacer under the coil packs that you can intercept the signal with.
Forgot about the icm. It probably wouldn't like being turned on and off rapidly.
I'm running the bailey two step on mine. I had some issues getting it to work with the series two ignition and had to send it back to Bob to add a opto-isolator. Not sure if it was an issue with my car or the box, but it didn't work right when i first got it. You have to use mds coil spacers to allow the power to be cut from the coils without turning off the ignition module. I haven't talked about it much due to the issues I had. Don't want to recommend something that might not work. Bob was awesome and got me squared away eventually. He also has a ignition module that allows coil near plug like LS engines and incorporates the two step. That would be awesome for high rpm use, if it would work with our crank sensors and PCM.
I googled it and all I could find for a system is a mixture of nitrous and methanol. Then something about something with controlling spark and timing to act like a stalled converter to allow the vehicle to be in boost before take off.
I googled it and all I could find for a system is a mixture of nitrous and methanol. Then something about something with controlling spark and timing to act like a stalled converter to allow the vehicle to be in boost before take off.
There is a micro switch on the shifter. When you click it the timing retards.
I guesS its connected to an additional ignition controller? which one is preferred? If that's the case it's more like a launch control than an ALS. Which I read is quite hard on the system.
[This message has been edited by Tweeder (edited 01-20-2013).]
Quote from DH in a previous thread. But -49 degrees? Justin said (and showed) -14 is too much already.
quote
...Antilag is easy. Just toss a switch inline with the air temp sensor so that it unplugs when you press a switch (the safer way is to have it "plug in" when you hit the switch, but you cant watch IATs). When it plugs or unplugs, command -49 degrees of timing in the air temp spark table... Just dont press the button without your foot on the pedal at least 30%. The switch has to be manhandled at all times so I mounted mine on my shifter.. press to lag, release to go, so I could use it in any gear, any speed... You could wire it to your brake switch as well if you wanted to make launching it a bit less reliant on your skill to pop your finger off the button when you lift the brakes.
Quote from DH in a previous thread. But -49 degrees? Justin said (and showed) -14 is too much already. [QUOTE] ...Antilag is easy. Just toss a switch inline with the air temp sensor so that it unplugs when you press a switch (the safer way is to have it "plug in" when you hit the switch, but you cant watch IATs). When it plugs or unplugs, command -49 degree s of timing in the air temp spark table... Just dont press the button without :your foot on the pedal at least 30%. The switch has to be manhandled at all times so I mounted mine on my shifter.. press to lag, release to go, so I could use it in any gear, any speed... You could wire it to your brake switch as well if you wanted to make launching it a bit less reliant on your skill to pop your finger off the button when you lift the brakes.
: It is conflicting information like this which makes me uneasy about the best way how to implement without destroying my engine or turbo.
[This message has been edited by nosrac (edited 01-20-2013).]
butsigh... you guys just dont read. I said COMMAND -49 degrees, which just removes all of the commanded advance and the actual timing is just going to be whatever you set your min timing to.
butsigh... you guys just dont read. I said COMMAND -49 degrees, which just removes all of the commanded advance and the actual timing is just going to be whatever you set your min timing to.
Ok, i hear ya but it's still a little confusing for us noobs.
I know how to remove the advance using the air temp table but I was thinking more like -20 * actual an NOT -6*.
1. What size cross-over do the 3800's use, 2 1/2"? 2. Would there be a difference in how the turbo spooled or responded in any way if the exhaust feeds were the same lenght? 3. I see alot of the turboed V8's on the other sites with singles, always try to have even feeds to the turbo, is that for looks only? Thanks Ray
I think we got the wrong drag radials. When it gets warmer out i'm going to have to do a massive burn out just to give it a chance. Ain't nobody got time fo dat.
I need to find out what superchargedV6 used for tires.
quote
Originally posted by SuperchargedV6: Normal was about 6 inches high but once I got it to go over a foot and bounce pretty good on the let down. I miss that 3800 SC. Rick B
Originally posted by Justinbart: I need to find out what superchargedV6 used for tires.
quote
Originally posted by RumbleB:
The tires that were on that car were pretty much like a drag tire to begin with. They were a BF Goodrich tire that really stuck to the pavement. This is how Rick's car was able to pop a wheelie.
bfgoodrich ftw! Looking at the pictures they look like they are all seasons too
From my phone with the torque app, I wouldn't trust this too much. I spun in first pretty good. Not bad for 15psi and a little rich, high 10's afr. I did another run but I must have let off too soon because the numbers were all wrong. ------------------ Turbo3800E85F23 5spd spec5 11.17@132.6
[This message has been edited by Justinbart (edited 01-31-2013).]
From my phone with the torque app, I wouldn't trust this too much. I spun in first pretty good. Not bad for 15psi and a little rich, high 10's afr. I did another run but I must have let off too soon because the numbers were all wrong.
( ie. bounce)
