Anyone ever do this one yet?
Im looking into it, I think a 45lb Solenoid would be fine, with a lockout release cable.

This is for the GT, so maybe the buttons can be mounted behind the 1/4 windows?
I'll also be using a remote opener, the buttons are a safety, incase.

Are you planning to remove and shave all the body side moldings as well?

Yeah just shaving the door handles would look strange with the belt-line molding in place - unless you somehow just extended the belt line to make up for it. Then it would seem like a waste of time just to have the exact same look.

People have removed their entire belt line moldings from a stock body before and there are pics on the forum. It is a WHOLE lot of work though. Remember too the belt-line serves as a means by which to actually secure the body panels to the chassis, so if you fill it in it will be very difficult to perform body work should a panel become damaged.

I was honestly thinking of just removing the door handle only and slotting the door to put the button on the side of the door.
I'll take a look at it all during class and seeing what I come up with.

My other idea was using extra trim I have to just remove the handle and put trim in place of it

I'd he using a high tension bump stop to spring load the door to actually 'pop' open a bit

I'd like to see a little more on this concept. Keep us posted!

I'll be ordering my poppers soon. I'm going to tinker with the extra door I have and see if I can come up with shaved handles without removin the entire moulding.

I have several ideas of button mounting, hiding and handle delete.

I'm building a 246GT Dino replica and I've removed the door handle and lock from the outside. I've put in the solenoids and the "popper". I have a bunch of pictures of how I did it and I'll post them. Mounting the solenoid so it didn't interfere with the window was the biggest problem. I'm using the remote, so I won't have a button mounted anywhere. I do have a hidden cable release, but I'm not going to post about that!

Rick

Nice Antuzzi.

Well my issue is:
Will the doors (being they are heavy) actually "pop" out?

I can't find different tension stoppers, they don't rate them like that I suppose.

Whose car is that? I've been struggling to see if beechwood would work with dark blue and this makes it look like it could work. (sorry for the derail)

Fieros look fine without doorhandles and belt line trim left alone. As far as getting a pop door to pop open... Where the door meets the rear quater there is a half inch over hang and the steel behind it is hollow and easily accessible. Where the white rectangle is, thats where the popper will sit, behind the metal and held on via a l bracket and pop rivets. You could spot weld and then blend it back for a smoother look. This will be to pop the door out. You need to trim the plastic on the body panel where the lip is to allow the plunger to extend out of actuator. This can be as small as an 1/8 inch hole or you can us a half inch square driver and 2 part epoxy the body plastic onto the face of the plunger for a smoother look. If done right you cant tell its even there.

Another pic of a fiero with no door handles and belt line

I'm going with the SPAL-40 kit, do you mean the solenoid or the bump stop things?

When I was in my younger days, I also installed such a kit on a Nova. I had alot of problems with it, and if I did it differently I would have a manual release cable (NOT electric) probally mounted in the drivers side wheel well. *You need to be able to work the latch with the cable, not the striker.

Good luck.

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I have had a Chevy S10 with then with no problems.
Electric and manual release cables.

I just don't know how well they are in Fieros

I used 15lb solenoids in my car and as long as your latches are lubed they work fine. been using the, for 2 years now

No belt line, no door handles...but using the Corvette C6 Door switches

That is F$&king Sexy.

How hard is it to delete belt lines? And see how your door gap is?
That was exactly the concept I was going for!

It's a lot of body work to remove the belt line. Be prepared for that. And removing your body panels are going to be more difficult, but not impossible. I can still remove my door skins and front and rear fascia. The front fenders had to be cut off when I added vertical doors, but they were bonded back on okay. The rear clip can't be easily removed, but that's true for 99% of the cars on the road, so it's no big deal.

I *might* keep my belt line; but where your handle gap is;
That's the exact idea I was going for with my car

jscott1: do you have a build thread for those C6 handles? That is really nice!

oh man, yeah it is! Thanks... another thing on the winter to-do list that won't get done.

I would think that if you wanted to maintain the beltline you could have a piece of trim plastic welded together to the correct length.

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[This message has been edited by jetsnvettes2000 (edited 08-19-2013).]

quote Originally posted by slicknick: Whose car is that? I've been struggling to see if beechwood would work with dark blue and this makes it look like it could work. (sorry for the derail)

Snapperheads. He is from Grand Rapids. He has several nice Fieros. He has a web site. http://www.snapperheadperformance.com/