13 years ago I bought a GT40 MK1 body kit from ASPP. Yesterday I made the first modifications to the chassis to be able to mount it to a Fiero. During the intervening years I have acquired many items necessary to complete the build, but for most of the time I didn't have a place I felt comfortable working in. Three years ago I retired and moved from PA to SC, into a house I had built to suit with a three car garage. This gave me the space to do the work.
There have been three different chassis I planned to put this body on through the years. First I bought a 86 SE v6 auto. That was before I knew much about Fieros. When I learned about the 88 suspension changes I decided to get an 88. I got a Formula auto but had title issues and couldn't get it registered in SC. I then found another Formula auto in SC on Craig's list for $300. That is what I am working on now. I will be converting to manual with a Getrag.
I took the engine from the 86 apart and had it machined clean up the bores and crank journals and then installed a stroker kit to make it a 3.1 liter, with all the stock Fiero top end. It also got a new cam and roller tip rockers. It is now bolted to the Getrag sitting on the cradle waiting to go in once the chassis is ready.
I won't detail the removal of the body for this build - most of you know how that goes. I will just discuss the process unique to this build. the kit requires the removal of the cross-bar and the headlight buckets from the front of the chassis and modification to the ends of the frame horns. The radiator gets laid down to about 30 degrees and vents out through the hood. The rear also gets modified, and I will detail that later.
The body.
The front chassis with the cross bar and headlight buckets removed.
Unmodified frame horn.
Modified frame horn.
I'll update as more gets done, and list the changes and upgrades when appropriate. Thanks for lookings
Subscribed! If you post often enough and keep the project going, it'll eventually be moved over into the Construction Zone. It'll be interesting to see this kit progress.
Since I sold my Ferrari kit, that GT40 is the only Fiero id be interested in. Id loved to find one mostly done that someone dont have time to finish. I didnt want any more complete projects. Thats outta the picture now that im moving out of the country. Good luck with yours.
Since I sold my Ferrari kit, that GT40 is the only Fiero id be interested in. Id loved to find one mostly done that someone dont have time to finish. I didnt want any more complete projects. Thats outta the picture now that im moving out of the country. Good luck with yours.
I want my wife to know that your project has taken over 13 years and you still don't have wheels under the body!
------------------ Jonathan 62K mile '86 GT daily driver 23K mile '85 notchie - Still under construction https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/121056.html Power tends to corrupt, and absolute power corrupts absolutely - Lord Acton Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not - Thomas Jefferson The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants - Thomas Jefferson
Jack Kube's wife was supposed to be selling the original molds for this car. I wonder if that went forward and what will become of the molds.
Jonathan
She had a business associate of Jack's helping her try to sell the whole business about a year ago, but I haven't heard since then. He had molds for 5 or 6 different car bodies.
when i first got my fiero , that was the body i wanted .i talked to jacks wife on the phone and almost placed the order , but i needed to keep enough money on hand to put my kids through school .figured i could buy one later .but then when i had the money , jack had already passed away .there is a really awesome gulf gt40 style build on pennocks here in the archives .i dont remember the OP but it would not be hard to search for .the MK1 by assp is the best fiero GT40 body , hands down .good luck with the build.
Archies GT40, was a lot more authentic and well done rolling kit. I considered buying one when he first made them. I just felt they were too expensive at the time. A buddy of mine built an ERA GT40 about 10 years ago. Its the most authentic Ive ever seen anywhere. The ONLY thing that gives it away is the Porsche transaxle. His even has the 289 with 4 double throat Weber carbs like the originals. It even has all the original instrumentation and upholstery. It dont even look like fiberglass. You would think its original metal unless you knock your hand on it.
I wonder if anyone who was in the market for an ERA replica ever looked twice at the ASPP kit? They are at two opposite ends of the kit spectrum. Archie's GT4T is also far from a home builder's kit. For the body swap Fiero market, it was the best IMO.
I'll try to keep this from becoming a debate over which GT40 is more accurate or looks better. The ASPP kit "resembles" the original and includes the styling cues that I like from the original, but anyone who knew anything about the GT40 would know immediatly that it was not one. If I had am umlimited budget I would have an original GT40 over any other car I know of. Second would be a replica such as ERA or Superformance. I chose the ASPP MK1 kit because it looked like a GT40 MK1 and I could afford it.
I originally hesitated to post to this thread because I didn't want to see it turn into a debate on GT40 replicas. I posted because I can't wait to see this build.
Jack Kube was one of the icons of the Fiero world & will be remembered long after we are gone.
The GT40 is IMHO, the best looking car ever built.
What is there NOT to like about this car? It has almost all of the styling cues that made me fall in love with the GT40 when I was 14.
I 1000% agree with what Rick says below.
Now, if we can, I'd really love to see this build. It should be great, after all Rick has been planning for 13 years to make his dream come true.
Thanks
Archie
quote
Originally posted by Rick Vanderpool:
I'll try to keep this from becoming a debate over which GT40 is more accurate or looks better. The ASPP kit "resembles" the original and includes the styling cues that I like from the original, but anyone who knew anything about the GT40 would know immediatly that it was not one. If I had am umlimited budget I would have an original GT40 over any other car I know of. Second would be a replica such as ERA or Superformance. I chose the ASPP MK1 kit because it looked like a GT40 MK1 and I could afford it.
Cool! This will be one I will follow. Just a couple thoughts I had, Moving the plate up, putting exhaust tip in the middle, flush mounting the tail light a little more and maybe more parts painted black, if this is the make and model that you have. Oh yah and I widened the cut out on the bottom a little.
I appreciate all suggestions. I have my own vision of the finished car, and hopefuly I can get there and you can see the results.
I have to say that I have gotten a lot of help from here seeing what others have done. I have done coil-overs for the rear and the S10 booster upgrade to list a couple. Others will be mentioned as I get to that point in the build. So, Thanks, Rick
I appreciate all suggestions. I have my own vision of the finished car, and hopefuly I can get there and you can see the results.
I have to say that I have gotten a lot of help from here seeing what others have done. I have done coil-overs for the rear and the S10 booster upgrade to list a couple. Others will be mentioned as I get to that point in the build. So, Thanks, Rick
Welcome! I may be able to help with the final look you are going for? You can PM me if you want to keep it under wraps until you are ready to reveal it. Terry
Welcome! I may be able to help with the final look you are going for? You can PM me if you want to keep it under wraps until you are ready to reveal it. Terry
Again, thanks for the offer, but I don't really need help with the look. I've had 13 years to think about that. The execution may be where I need some help. When I get to that point I will ask here for help. Thanks, Rick
I'll try to keep this from becoming a debate over which GT40 is more accurate or looks better. The ASPP kit "resembles" the original and includes the styling cues that I like from the original, but anyone who knew anything about the GT40 would know immediatly that it was not one. If I had am umlimited budget I would have an original GT40 over any other car I know of. Second would be a replica such as ERA or Superformance. I chose the ASPP MK1 kit because it looked like a GT40 MK1 and I could afford it.
I agree with all the above. I couldnt find a ASPP kit at the time I was ready to do one. I did find an old Fiberfab replica that I highly modified. Mine had a Porche 911 drivetrain and chassis with dual 3 throat Webers. I liked it and was nearly done with it when I got an offer for it I couldnt refuse. Sometimes I regret selling it anyway. The rear end especially was quite a bit off of a real one, but still OK. The body style is timeless and looked so good even now, the newer Ford GT looks almost identical. The only real appearance change was making all the dimensions just a bit bigger to make it more daily user friendly. I would love to own a newer one, but cant do at present time.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 02-01-2013).]
Spent the afternoon trying to figure out how the kit designer wanted me to mount the condenser using the brackets provided when they didn't line up with anyholes in the condenser frame. I called a member who has helped in the past who has a MK2 kit and got enough information to be able to get it mounted. Thanks Kevin.
Now I have a question for you guys. In the picture below, below the headlight are two other lights. The upper one is about 2"x4" and the lower one is 2" round. The instructions say to wire the front Fiero amber clearance/turn signal wires to the upper and the side marker wiers to the lower round one.If I do that don't I end up with two turn signals riight together? I was thinking I could mount the round light on the outside of the body below the headlight, or I can leave out the turn signal wire from the 2x4 and put themboth up front with independent functions. What do you think?
I think what the instructions mean is that they want you to connect the brown marker light wires to the round lights using single filament bulbs, and connect the lt blue (LH turn) and dark blue (RH turn) wires to single filament bulbs in the rectangular bulbs for turn signals. That way the round ones will illuminate with the park lights selected, and the rectangular ones will only illuminate for signalling.
look up the thread Pix of GT40... by CobraPhil .sorry i dont know how to post a link .an ASPP kit with an archie v8 kit from the archives .lots of pictures .
That might have been what they meant but it's not what they say. "All of the black wires in the Fiero light harness are ground wires and should be hooked up first. All of the brown wires are running (or park lamp). On front turn and park lamp GT-873, splce brown to brown, Splice red wire from turn lamp to left, light blue - right, dark blue. The small round park amp GT-872 is spliced to the side marker wires, black ground and brown power." There is clearly an error in the side marker wiring instructions and It makes no sense to wire it that way. There are not brown and black wires in the side marker wiring. In my car there are three wires for the front park/turn bulb, black, brown and light or dark blue depending on side of the car. On the side light bulb there only 2 wires, brown and light or dark blue. I looked at the schematic and the side light brown is connected to the brown of the turn/park bulb and the blue is connected to the blue of the turn/park bulb.
The rectangular lamp is a two filiment lamp and the round is a single.
Having said all that I could wire the Fiero brown wire to the rectangular lamp brown and the blue to the round power and jump the ground one to the other and cap the side marker wires, or vise versa, or I could wire the round lamp as a side marke and put it on the side below the headlight and infront of the wheel.
look up the thread Pix of GT40... by CobraPhil .sorry i dont know how to post a link .an ASPP kit with an archie v8 kit from the archives .lots of pictures .
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/091160.html I've seen that and he did a great job on that build, but that is miles from where I am going on my build. He completely modifed the chassis to accomplish his goal. I am only going to make the modifications required by the kit maker, which are minor. Rick
(to post a link simply highlight the url and hit ctrl/c then go to the post and hit ctrl/v).
Originally posted by Rick Vanderpool: Having said all that I could wire the Fiero brown wire to the rectangular lamp brown and the blue to the round power and jump the ground one to the other and cap the side marker wires, or vise versa, or I could wire the round lamp as a side marke and put it on the side below the headlight and infront of the wheel.
Perhaps I misunderstood your question. It sounds as though you already knew how to wire them to get whatever result you want. If you were looking for suggestions as what might look best, you're on your own!
I guess I was asking for confirmation that the side markers were turn signals as well. My car has never run since I got it and the schematic seems to have power going both ways threw the bulb depending on the switch settings. You are correct that I am on my on as far as what i think looks best.
You are correct... the side markers at the front end blink as well even though they are single filament bulbs. When the park lights are on, 12V is applied only to one wire on the marker lamp. When the turn signals are used in conjunction with the marker lights, the turn circuit applies 12V to the second wire creating a potential difference of 0V across the filament, which shuts off the marker light. When the flasher module turns off every second or so, it removes 12V from one of the two wires leaving the marker lamp to turn on again.
Alright, based on that I think I will put the round marker on the side and just have the rectangular lamp in front with turn and park/drive functionallity. Thanks, Rick
Today I slid the front of the body on to see how thing lined up. I suspected the hood would not fit without triming the top front edge of the spare tire tub. As you can see from the pictures, I was correct. The bottom picture shows how much I need to remove.
This was one of the best body kits for a Fiero that I liked. It was something different and fresh and had a pretty clean apperance on a smaller car. No it would not fool anyone with half a clue but it made a nice car.
We have a couple repo GT40's here and they look great. They look like the real think for the most part and could fool many. You do not see them out often but are very refreshing over the way too over done Cobra kits. We also have a company here that does the best Grand Sport Corvette repos around. Mongoose Grand Sports are amazing. It is fun as we see them often many are painted up like some of the famed cars that used to race like the Penske Roadster and Foyt Grand Sports. They even do a repo of the Corvette GTP that is street legal. It looks pretty much like the real thing and runs amazing.
I love seeing old race cars on the street real or not.
Originally posted by Rick Vanderpool: Archie, Any chance you have a closer shot of the front this car with the body off showing the tub cut down? Thanks, Rick
We didn't build the yellow car, we just put a V-8 into it.
So I don't have a lot of pictures of stuff we didn't do to the car.
Archie, Thanks, that helps. I can see the notches cut into the front of the tub that I will have to do to mine.It also lets me see what the builder did that is different from the instructions. The bar across the front for example. There is no mention in my instructions about putting a bar in tha location. Thanks, Rick
Hey Rick, I haven't posted for a long time. I think it would be nice to post here so others can see. Now if I can only get this PIP thing figured out again. Kevin
------------------ 67 GT-40 Mark II, 3800 S/C auto, 85 Fiero based (ASPP) kit. Held suspension and coil-overs all around with 2" dropped spindles. Mike's leather interior. And a whole lot more...
[This message has been edited by GT40 3.8 SC (edited 02-04-2013).]
------------------ 67 GT-40 Mark II, 3800 S/C auto, 85 Fiero based (ASPP) kit. Held suspension and coil-overs all around with 2" dropped spindles. Mike's leather interior. And a whole lot more...
Hey Rick, I haven't posted for a long time. I think it would be nice to post here so others can see. Now if I can only get this PIP thing figured out again. Kevin
I would be interested in seeing how many of these kits are out there. I am aware of about 6 from internet searches, including at least three on here besides yours. Rick
I had heard several years ago that only 4 kits were completed on the East coast. Not sure how true that was but I've only seen 1 other, a Green one, at Carlisle a few years ago. I've also seen pictures of a Yellow one. All were MK2. There are a few things I like better on your MK1, like the upper scoops on the rear, (Mine are too pronounced), and the 2 vent hood. I've had my car at several shows and everyone peers into that big hole in the front and asks, "What's missing?" I installed the Black mesh grill material in that opening to make it more presentable. I love driving this car and love the attention. (If you can't handle people jumping out of their cars at red lights to take phone pictures, sell it now.) There are a few things these kits must have IMHO.... A V-8, Manual trans and a nice "Rumble in the back." My new Borla system makes my 6 sound like a V-8 and I'm still gathering parts for my F40 6 spd. install. I've considered sell mine several times, and I've had some unbelievable offers, but it was just a passing bad moment. I love this car and probably will own it forever.
------------------ 67 GT-40 Mark II, 3800 S/C auto, 85 Fiero based (ASPP) kit. Held suspension and coil-overs all around with 2" dropped spindles. Mike's leather interior. And a whole lot more...
