Since you're using the stock ECU, do you plan on having it reprogrammed by Hirsch Performance? I believe Reinertsen Motors in Denville could do that for you. I know you have a lot more to do on it than just reflashing it, like surgically removing the BCM's code from it, but Hirsch's reflash might be a good start. I've read they can add up to 30hp to an LP9. They were the only Saab factory-approved aftermarket performance parts back before GM shut Saab down.
Hey, now wait a minute, I know those Speedhut gauges, and I'm pretty sure that speedo uses a GPS signal! I thought you said you were going to try to adapt the VSS system to the Fiero? You're cheating!
I'm curious, are those Speedhut gauges the same diameter as the two large circular openings in the stock Fiero gauge cluster?
[This message has been edited by Hidalgo (edited 04-21-2014).]
Since you're using the stock ECU, do you plan on having it reprogrammed by Hirsch Performance? I believe Reinertsen Motors in Denville could do that for you. I know you have a lot more to do on it than just reflashing it, like surgically removing the BCM's code from it, but Hirsch's reflash might be a good start. I've read they can add up to 30hp to an LP9. They were the only Saab factory-approved aftermarket performance parts back before GM shut Saab down.
I have been in contact with John Z Williams about the tune and what I need for it. My original plan was to use HP Tuners, but after speaking with John, I plan to let him have free reign on the tune because HP Tuners is lacking on that particular ecu. I am not planning to obtain much more than 400whp on this car. I don't think I need any more.
quote
Originally posted by Csjag:
Amazing quality work!! You are really talented. What do you expect for 0 to 60 times when its finished?
I really don't have a clue what to expect. I will post once I find out.
quote
Originally posted by Hidalgo:
Hey, now wait a minute, I know those Speedhut gauges, and I'm pretty sure that speedo uses a GPS signal! I thought you said you were going to try to adapt the VSS system to the Fiero? You're cheating!
I'm curious, are those Speedhut gauges the same diameter as the two large circular openings in the stock Fiero gauge cluster?
These are 4" gauges and I made a custom cluster housing for them. As for the Saab VSS, there isn't a sensor in the transmission and it uses the wheel speed sensor signal from the ABS module and the CIM module through the CAN line. That isn't going to work for me, so I went with the GPS speedo.
I really wanted a big tach with small speedo, but I am pleased with the gauge choice. This setup allows me to remove the rally gauges which I never really liked the look of them in the Fiero anyway.
I mounted the fuel pump module and auxiliary terminal 30 fusebox yesterday. I wound up ordering a bunch of parts for the interior of my VR6 Fiero and I snuck this into the order for this car.
No, i am serious. I ordered a bunch of interior parts for the VR6 swap. If it comes out as nice as I hope, I may get the dash in this car covered in suede too.
No, i am serious. I ordered a bunch of interior parts for the VR6 swap. If it comes out as nice as I hope, I may get the dash in this car covered in suede too.
I think that may have been a stab at the a2a intercooler.
After pulling the engine apart, I am very thankful that I don't work on Saab's. Everything seems like a pain in the ass on that car. (Note: this is coming from the guy that removes the nose on an Audi to change a belt)
I right with you there, had to remove the front bumper on my jetta to change a thermostat earlier this week. (more to drain the radiator since i did a flush but still)
I think that may have been a stab at the a2a intercooler.
For the power level I want to achieve and boost I'll be running, I believe that the small air to air intercooler will be fine. My end goal with this car is a lot different than most Fiero owners. This car will probably never see the track or attend a car show because I lost interest in both.
I'll post up a pic of the electronics station I built once it is complete. I am running out of room fast because I am trying to keep everything clean and looking like it belongs there and not just thrown into the car.
Here are a few pics of Ryan's dash for his Fiero. I wanted to see how his came out before I tried it on mine. I have the suede headliner and plan to do the A-pillars to match.
I spent a decent amount of time and money ensuring that the swap receives all new wiring and terminals. Here is one of the relay plugs that is about to be put together.
I really liked the way Ryan's flocked dash came out for his Fiero, so I had him do the same treatment to mine. I think it looks flocking great. The A-pillars are next and the VR6 Fiero will be getting the same treatment.
Here is the end result of my dash. I was hesitant to do it at first because this is one of the nicest dashes that I managed to find in a Fiero with zero blemishes and I spent a lot of my time keeping it safe while it was out of the car. The nice part is that it is easy to do if you have patience. The downside is that the flock that is not attached is a little messy to clean up.
I'm taking this month off the swap to redirect my attention elsewhere. Being able to do this is an amazing feeling because I don't have to answer to anyone but myself and I honestly don't wanna work on it right now.
I'm spending this month doing a high horsepower Porsche 930 build for a client and I'm redoing the interior of the VR6 Fiero.
I'm feeling pretty rested and anxious to get cranking on this car. One of the things I am planning involves stripping the interior again and redoing it, but that will be done in the midst of getting it running.
I have the interior all back together and all the wiring is run to look like factory. Everything is routed and loomed perfectly. Here are a few pics.
I took the power steering pump that I gutted out and I started to plan out a proper delete. That part of the build was bothering me and I finally came up with a proper solution that I'll post up pics later.
quote
Originally posted by bmwguru:
I'm spending this month doing a high horsepower Porsche 930 build for a client
Dave
Here is what we wound up doing with the Porsche. This thing is making crazy power and is making me really reconsider what I am driving.
I have the interior all back together and all the wiring is run to look like factory. Everything is routed and loomed perfectly. Here are a few pics.
Here is what we wound up doing with the Porsche. This thing is making crazy power and is making me really reconsider what I am driving.
Guru, I love how you are trying to keep the swap looking like it could have been done by the factory. The instrument panel is nicely done, but looks like somethings missing between the two instrument pods. I could not verify all the gauges you have in there, but a smaller round boost gauge would look cool placed in the middle of the panel. The Intercooler on the Porsche is huge! If decide your next driver will be a Porsche, put me in line for this Fiero!
My bad, it looks like you have boost gauge in the tachometer.....
[This message has been edited by Rick 88 (edited 06-28-2014).]
That is a large speedo with small tach. They didn't offer the large tach with small speedo when I ordered the gauges. What I really want is a 4" tach in the center. A 3" speedo on the left and a 3" multi gauge on the right. Maybe I will redo the gauges down the road after the car is running and driving.
Dave
[This message has been edited by bmwguru (edited 06-28-2014).]
I wound up removing the gutted power steering pump and I came up with this:
I found it searching online for Volkswagen power steering delete kits. The Saab and VW use KYB pumps. There was a 6.5mm offset difference between this standoff and what I needed, but that wasn't a big deal to take out of the standoff.
I closed the shop today through Sunday and I spent the day working on this project.
The first part of today, I dropped the gas tank and pulled the sender. I drilled a hole in the sender (and sealed it) for the pump ground wire and changed out to two separate plugs with new terminals and housings. This allows the fuel pump module to be able to vary the pump speed to regulate pressure and volume. The second plug is power and ground for the gauge. I used two different plugs to avoid confusion in the future.
Here is a quick shot of the shop with my car. The yellow tool cart was a recent purchase for me last week. I still have my triple bank box, but I was out of room in it. Between that and an oversize cabinet for the shop specialty tools, I was in the market for a new tool box. The one I wanted was $18,000 and the tool cart was $1800, so I opted for a new tool cart to free up some space in the box and make the usual used tools at my fingertips.
The POR-15 still looks good underneath...
I also spent two hours today putting together the mock up charge pipe with intercooler. I want it to look right, so I'm doing it twice. The battery cables were installed today and all the wiring is now complete, secured and loomed.
Tomorrow, I plan to fill the cooling system and try to get it ready to start up by the end of this month. I'll be using G12 coolant in the system.
Today, I spent a few hours rechecking a few items on the swap. I have the cooling system complete, the wiring harness is complete and double checked at all connections. I wound up having to take one of the ignition coil connectors apart to pin an additional signal wire for the tach. The factory tach hookup uses a module on the BUS that was eliminated, so I had to go this route.
The oil was added...
The relay system was made to look tidy. Here are the Main Relay, Fuel Pump Relay and A/C Relay. The fuel pump relay just turns on the pump module and doesn't directly power the pump.
Tomorrow, I plan to test the fan and replace the existing relay with a new factory one.
I didn't take any pics, but the update is as follows:
Intercooler installed, but need support bracket fabricated.
Custom stage 5 tune flashed.
Engine cranked until oil pressure reached safe level.
Cooling system filled.
The plan for today is to calibrate the fly by wire throttle body and I have to attach the brake switch control wire to the ecu. The clutch is giving me issues. It seems to have gone from having a good pedal to no pedal. I'll have to check for a leak under the car.
Looks like we hit a major hurdle in this swap. We are having issues getting past the immobilizer and I am not willing to add four or five modules to the car to make it work. Basically, I have full communication of the ecu, but can't get the injectors to pulse due to the missing modules.
I'm not upset or stressed about this. I do have a backup plan for this because it was a never done swap, I planned on issues. I am not 100% certain on this decision, but I may have to get a standalone for this swap. In the meantime, I plan to redo my door panels and finish the interior. I also have the clutch to contend with.
I really liked the way Ryan's flocked dash came out for his Fiero, so I had him do the same treatment to mine. I think it looks flocking great. The A-pillars are next and the VR6 Fiero will be getting the same treatment.
Here is the end result of my dash. I was hesitant to do it at first because this is one of the nicest dashes that I managed to find in a Fiero with zero blemishes and I spent a lot of my time keeping it safe while it was out of the car. The nice part is that it is easy to do if you have patience. The downside is that the flock that is not attached is a little messy to clean up.
Flocking really bothers me, feeling flocking gives me the same feeling I get when someone runs their fingernails across a chaulk board. Just looking at it makes me uncomfortable. It does look good though, when I'm ready to do my dash I'll be looking for a suede like meterial for mine.
I'm confused at that comment because I have flocked A pillars and a suede headliner and they feel very similar. There is a slight difference in the feel, so that may be what you are referring to. The only reason some parts are flocked and some are suede covered depended on the base condition. The A pillars and dash were perfect, so flocking was best. The bottom of the door panel is kind of wavy and has imperfections from the factory which is why it has material on it, so I used suede with a 1/8" backing on it for that and the headliner.
The downside of the flock is that it takes around 10 days to cure before it can be handled.
It's probably just me, I have never heard anyone else have the same complaint about flocking. It could also be the quality of the materials used, type of fiber, lenghth and thickness. So what I hate could be cheap flocking I associate all flocking with vs what you have avaliable.
[This message has been edited by jmbishop (edited 08-23-2014).]
I needed a sanity break while I wait for my hardware and software to arrive from Europe.
So, I washed the car with Dawn dish soap twice. Used claybar on it and then washed it again with Zaino car wash. Added two coats of base polish with gloss enhancer in between each coat and let that sit overnight. Then today, I used the high gloss polish for two coats with the gloss enhancer in between coats again and a final top coat of the enhancer.
The car is so smooth, the cover won't stay on the car without two people putting it on.
wish I was closer to NJ, I'd love to come see your stuff in person. 
