Are you just trolling again? Or are you just naturally a jackass? I'm doing this on my own time to benefit other people, not to appease you, who won't even believe the truth when it's right in front of them. I shouldn't even dignify your trolling with a response but I want to set things straight for anyone else who's reading this.
Yes, it's absolutely 1080p, not interpolated. I've taken the damn thing apart to inspect the components, and it uses a 2.1 MP sensor. Maybe it's you, Kevin, who doesn't understand what that means? 2.1 MP supports 1920x1080. This records 1920x1088x30fps, 20,324kbps data rate plus 97kbps/44kHz audio. That means 1080p full HD.
Now compare my YouTube to tests of others on YouTUbe, say, the Drift 720 at 720p. That's 5 MP and the video I'm watching is blurrier than mine, and mine obviously has more pixels actually there making plates and signs much more readable. First few videos I come across... This video has pixellated jaggies, mine doesn't. So does this one, and this one. And this one. I have more pixels. I have more visual clarity. I have less artifacting. I have more real-world readability in signs and license plates.
As for picture quality, like I explained, it's actually better than YouTube's compressed version but I don't know where to upload it. YouTube kind of mangled those Drift HD720 videos to some degree too, I'm sure, but mine was still better afterward because it's a better picture to begin with. Sure, you'll get a clearer picture with 5 like the GoPro HD Hero, but that's $150 (used) if you Buy-It-Now on fleaBay and this is still true 1080p, full HD. It's phenomenal for anything less than the original GoPro's $150 tag, and that's even with my lens being scratched up already from gravel and bugs on the motorcycles. But you can still clearly read license plates beyond 50 feet, and at the size they appear in the video it should be visible at 75+ feet (3/4 size) if not out to 100 ft. It's about as good as my $400 phone with an 8MP camera which, at the cost of replacement camera parts for phones, puts it on par with the list price, so everything adds up there too.
And like I said, I'll gladly send the higher quality original AVI to anyone, which hasn't been transcoded and re-compressed by YouTube to save space. I just can't attach > 25 MB because gmail says so.
Yes, it's 1440x1088 coming out of the sensor and compressed to AVI without interpolation. I was trying to help people by sharing. You just can't admit that you're wrong, even in the face of proof. Go troll someone else into arguments and waste their time, not mine. Thanks for your "input", but this is what facts look like. I don't see that you've offered any at all. I've proven my point to anyone who wants to look at the facts, but apparently I'll never be able to prove anything to you, so I'm done with your crap, Kevin.
Dobey, I'll look into that. I don't really need to moto-vlog or anything but I've been thinking about one anyway. It probably has better fast motion than this camera because it's intended to be a helmet cam vs a car dash cam. Does it have a helmet mount available besides the adhesive? (I'm not sure I want to glue something to my Nolans since I might be selling them in the spring).
Craigsfiero2007, I do like Monoprice, and DealExtreme. Some of it is junk, but there are some awesome deals on decent quality items there as well. From what I'm seeing on YouTube, that MHD camera looks about the same quality as I'm getting in some videos, a little better in some. Looks like a Contour Roam2 knockoff. Pretty good for that price. Almost on par with the authentic Roam2
[This message has been edited by FieroGT42 (edited 10-16-2013).]
Craigsfiero2007, I do like Monoprice, and DealExtreme. Some of it is junk, but there are some awesome deals on decent quality items there as well. From what I'm seeing on YouTube, that MHD camera looks about the same quality as I'm getting in some videos, a little better in some. Looks like a Contour Roam2 knockoff. Pretty good for that price. Almost on par with the authentic Roam2
The $26 camera of yours makes an impressive video for $26. If you break that, you won't feel so bad. I might snap one of these up to use for recording where I think I might break it. My MHD actually recorded at 720p. But it works well enough for recording on my motorcycle or whatever else.
Originally posted by Lambo nut: If you're happy with it, I guess that's all that matters.
Kevin
No, please. Since you're so insistent that I have no idea what I'm talking about, please explain to me how it still isn't 1080p, and how the others below aren't either, right? Ok, I'm done. Sorry, but you really got under my skin there man. I know I'm a real hardass when someone calls BS on something I know I'm right about, so I apologize there, but you basically called me a liar and/or that I'm an idiot when it comes to these.
Anyway... I'm still uploading a video from the Vivitar crapcorder I have on my handlebars at the moment. It's pretty disappointing in comparison, and i'll be returning that one and looking for a better handlebar cam, preferably with a standard tripod mount.
I decided I might upgrade and start moto-vlogging since a couple of friends showed some interest, and I think it would be nice to save high quality videos from some cool rides anyway.
I found this (SJ1000) and it's looks like the best of anything < $100. It's about $83 US shipped to your door on fleaBay, maybe less elsewhere. Quality apparently the pants off my dash cam and the Monoprice MHD, or even more expensive cameras like the Contour2. Incredible for only 3 MP. Of course it isn't designed for high impact sports, but it should be fine on my bars. Charges while recording which my Vivitar didn't. That honestly is a big thing for me.
This Liquid Image Ego is the other one I'm looking at. Has continuous mode, I think the above noname SJ1000 might as well but I'm not sure. No charge while recording like the above, no auto start/stop like the above...
[This message has been edited by FieroGT42 (edited 10-17-2013).]
Video clip from the little blue Vivitar & other clones. I found a small town to stop at and switch my SD card over. As a note on the re-encoding that I mentioned that YouTube does, the "no passing zone" sign just as I leave town is clearly visible if you pause the original. Everything is blurrier in the youtube video. License plates are just barely readable at a fairly close following distance, maybe okay for a car, not comfortable for me on a bike at all.
Good enough for proof of idiocy in a court, but I think I want to start recording some rides from interesting locations anyway, so I'm going to upgrade to something else.
[This message has been edited by FieroGT42 (edited 10-17-2013).]
No, please. Since you're so insistent that I have no idea what I'm talking about, please explain to me how it still isn't 1080p, and how the others below aren't either, right? Ok, I'm done. Sorry, but you really got under my skin there man. I know I'm a real hardass when someone calls BS on something I know I'm right about, so I apologize there, but you basically called me a liar and/or that I'm an idiot when it comes to these.
Well I thought this was settled as you seemed happy with what you had bought and I was going to let it go at that, but....for someone that came on here asking questions about where to find a good DVR for car or motorcycle, you have become quite the expert now haven't you? Nice what a little looking around will do. As for the video you posted, didn't your mommies and daddies family camcorder you used to shoot it have a date time stamp you could have turned on to at least make it look a little more convincing? It looks nothing like the one in the review of the camera on Amazon with out the time/date stamp. So yes, I still don't believe you at all. But hey, like I said, if you are happy with what you bought, enjoy it. It does look like you are now trying to research these things and if you keep looking, I'm sure you will find a good one with 1080p and a quality picture you can zoom in on to see things you can't see by eye, and have a quality video at night to boot. It just won't be in the $26 range.
It's not fake, so get off it. You've conveniently sidestepped every point you've brought up that I've proven. Likewise, the timestamp can be turned off on this. Did we not already discuss the timestamp and the size at different resolutions and all that? The video I took looks better because Amazon shrank and re-compressed that other one to oblivion, and who knows what res they started with. Watch the SJ1000 review. He also mentions how YouTube crapifies videos by recompressing them. What do I have to do? Make another video of myself making a video with this camera so you can see me turn the timestamp off? I bet I'd fake that too somehow.
Why would I even bother faking something? Maybe to save face? No, I admitted the other camera is pretty much junk so obviously it isn't that. I don't care. I have nothing to gain or lose either way. Honestly, it only makes me look bad for stooping to argue with you, especially after I proved it already. I guess I take offense at being called a liar and it matters to me enough that I'd take that crap in order to have the truth known and maybe help someone else with videos and information.
That's what I'm here to do. Learn and share what I learn with others. So why are you here, other than to be a jackass?
A man isn't afraid to admit his mistakes. I did. You, on the other hand, obviously can't. Hell, I even tried to be the better man by apologizing to YOU! For offering proof to defend myself against being called a liar! And I offered you a chance to do the same, but clearly you're not interested the truth, manning up to one's own mistakes, or taking a chance to apologize after I extended you that courtesy.
Respect is earned and courtesy is owed, but if you can't offer that and since you have nothing CONSTRUCTIVE to add, please leave the discussion before you drag it to the trash can. This isn't my forum, and I'm not even a moderator, but this is my thread and I'd like to keep it going long enough to receive and review these other cameras that I've ordered.
Uploading degraded the quality a bit so apparently YouTube transcodes even standard AVIs to save bandwidth. The original AVI is a little better if anyone wants to see it, but I guess gmail limits attachments to 25 MB. If you have another way, I can share it. A $26 HD camera is great for the price.
I find that it makes quite a difference what type of video file is uploaded to YouTube. Their transcoding works better with some formats than others. It's too bad that this camera doesn't record H.264, but for $26 the video quality looks really good (minus the recompression artifacts created by YouTube).
If you could send me the original of the above video (to the email address in my profile) or another short video shot outside in the sunlight, I'd like to see what I could do with it using MPEG Streamclip, and then I'll upload it to YouTube to see the final result. I understand your email account has a limit of 25 MB, but if you use a program like WinRAR, it allows you split up a file (with no loss in quality) into numerous smaller files (and then at the receiving end it's reassembled into the original single file).
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-17-2013).]
I'd also like a car cam, something that sits in the rear corner of the interior, mounted high, facing forward, something like these: http://www.szswill.com/car-camera.html
Motion sensitive, it would record to storage hidden in the trunk. I'd want to be able to identify anybody entering the car. Maybe another motion sensor in the grille so that anybody walking by would also be recorded.
This would obviously be pricey, though.
[This message has been edited by hesto (edited 06-20-2014).]
If you want to record to a separate storage in the trunk, yeah it will cost a lot more. I'm not aware of any sub-$100 motion detection cameras that are any good. I'm not sure what type of storage system you want, but a SOC or something like Raspberry Pi and an SSD might do what you need on very little power. I would definitely filter the power to the system to prevent any damage from dips/spikes in the car's power system.
