Purchased from a friend who doesn't have the time or resources to get it running. (I did offer to help him, but he needed the funds worse than he needed the car.) It's an 84 Fiero with an Automoda convertible top conversion and an SD4. It is a real SD. I found the casting on the side of the block.) The odo shows 19,900 miles. I just noticed that the speedo goes to 150, and the tach redlines at 6K. The interior is full leather. What isn't leather is carpeted. Someone went to a great deal of expense and trouble to build this car. It's quite nicely done. With a little bit of luck, I'll have it running in a couple of days. We'll see. ------------------ Raydar 88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550 Praise the Lowered!
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-08-2014).]
Wow, really nice looking project. With only 19,000 miles, and paint that looks pristine (in the pics), I suspect this car has never seen inclement weather.
What's the frame like under that heat blanket? (traps moisture?)
I haven't looked for any frame issues, but I know the history of the car for the two previous owners, and probably the last 8-10 years. It's been indoors, for the entire time it's been in GA. The car lived in KS, before that.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-07-2014).]
I suppose that I meant that it redlines at 6K. I still am curious as to where the instruments came from. The speedo has an oil pressure gauge in it, and the tach has a voltmeter. I don't know of any Fiero that had any gauge added on to the speedo. But then I've never owned an 84. In retrospect, it seems like a great way to simplify the center stack (although this one has another voltmeter and some power outlets in the aux gauge housing. )
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-07-2014).]
Robert Northrup's car. *sigh* I painted that car back when it had the 84 bumpers. I thought it looked better like that. I'm glad that its back in the known universe though. It has been a mystery to me for 20 years.
Bob sold it to raise money for his wife's big chance to get a Tupperware district in Michigan. Big mistake-- the women in the organization there were epic megabitches and I hear it fell apart for them. Guys: Do not sell your car if a woman tells you to!
That car appeared in some kind of Sports Car Magazine in an article that Bob wrote himself. I may... have a copy. I'd have to dig for it.
Now let me dazzle you with some scanned 35mm photos from the distant past, the early nineties:
I spotted him in a parking lot. It is because of meeting him and helping on his car that I got my own Automoda kit... Which *I* still have LOL.
Speaking of which... do you mind telling how much that car set you back? I'm curious to see what an Automoda is worth. Mine has a Quad4-HO, not that I'd ever sell it.
[This message has been edited by CharlieHorse (edited 12-07-2014).]
Thank you so much for the info! And you're right. It looked good as a "bumperpad" car. It still has the bumperpads on the rear. They're just painted body color.
Check your PMs...
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-07-2014).]
Originally posted by Raydar: I suppose that I meant that it redlines at 6K. I still am curious as to where the instruments came from. The speedo has an oil pressure gauge in it, and the tach has a voltmeter. I don't know of any Fiero that had any gauge added on to the speedo. But then I've never owned an 84. In retrospect, it seems like a great way to simplify the center stack (although this one has another voltmeter and some power outlets in the aux gauge housing. )
I bet the tach is an 84 Indy tach, with a custom face, and tweaked to support 8K RPM. And I bet the Speedo is actually an 84 tach, with a different face to show MPH, and whatever electronics change is needed to adjust for the VSS input.
Yes, Bob silkscreened new faces on some of the instruments and added that volt meter. Why, I never knew, as I thought it was a waste of time. But he really liked those little touches, and he was good at getting stuff fabricated with factory-level quality. Anyone trying to find a cluster like that one will be in for a long, long hunt LOL
I remember seeing a custom air cleaner box made of aluminum that had the Fiero emblem photo-acid-etched nice and deep. I never saw it installed on that car and I kinda assume its sitting in a drawer somewhere and will never be installed on a Fiero. Alas.
Yes, Bob silkscreened new faces on some of the instruments and added that volt meter. Why, I never knew, as I thought it was a waste of time. But he really liked those little touches, and he was good at getting stuff fabricated with factory-level quality. Anyone trying to find a cluster like that one will be in for a long, long hunt LOL
Yes he WAS good at that. I did a double take when I saw it. I was thinking that they looked "factory" but had those outrageous numbers printed on them. I was thinking that maybe he got them from some GM "skunkworks" or something.
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I remember seeing a custom air cleaner box made of aluminum that had the Fiero emblem photo-acid-etched nice and deep. I never saw it installed on that car and I kinda assume its sitting in a drawer somewhere and will never be installed on a Fiero. Alas.
It really is a shame that the car got sold under those circumstances.
Again... I really appreciate all of the background info that you've given me. Thanks.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-08-2014).]
I haven't looked for any frame issues, but I know the history of the car for the two previous owners, and probably the last 8-10 years. It's been indoors, for the entire time it's been in GA. The car lived in KS, before that.
I was thinking Mike told me they got the car from Florida. Was it ever registered there or was that a broker?
I was thinking Mike told me they got the car from Florida. Was it ever registered there or was that a broker?
It's possible, but the previous title (before Mike got it) was registered in KS. I haven't talked with Mike in... years. Don't know him well. So I don't know, beyond that.
...and an SD4. It is a real SD. I found the casting on the side of the block.) The odo shows 19,900 miles. I just noticed that the speedo goes to 150, and the tach redlines at 6K.
Oh man, I'd love to have a Fiero with that power plant for autocross.
Congrats Raydar... looking forward to future reports!
So my own Automoda got back from my mechanic on Sunday. I'm cleaning it up and fixing a few remaining issues. Its legal and ready to go other than a few interior issues. I'm making my own center console and it's not done yet. I'll start a thread on it soon. Its just funny to me that Bob's old car shows up on almost the same day that my car is finally back. There have been whole years where I didn't think much about convertible Fieros... and now bam.
A bit of a tangent... I spoke with my insurance agent (State Farm) yesterday, about getting the car added to my insurance. When I started telling him about it, I mentioned that I found it a source of frustration that State Farm does not write "agreed value" policies in GA. He said, "We do, if the car is an antique; in other words, over 25 years old." I mentioned that both of my Fieros are now over 25 years old. He said, "Let me look into it, and call you back." He called back today and said that it was most likely not going to be a problem, but he would have to come and check out the cars. The only restrictions he mentioned are a mileage cap (not known what that limit is, yet) and that it's not used as a "daily driver". He's supposed to call me back again tomorrow. He also said that it would likely save me some money.
Okay... Survey says "no fuel". I can hear the pump running, so maybe the in-tank hose has come off or collapsed. (My friend told me that the pump had just been replaced. I tend to believe him, since there's an empty box for the strainer in the car. But something still could have happened.) I thought that I might be able to pressurize the tank with my compressor and force some gas up through the tube, but no such luck. I gave it enough pressure to make the tank "oil can" but still couldn't get any flow. Gave up for the night. Didn't want to damage anything with the pressure. I'm hoping that the tube or hose is just blocked. I really don't feel like dropping a half full tank. Especially with all the additional framework added to the underside of the car.
If you take off the return line and run a hose from it into a can, and can rig up a fiero gas cap to accept a compressed air fitting (drill/tap for a quick disconnect fitting), using very low air pressure (below 5 psi) you should be able to empty the tank. Install the modified cap, apply light pressure and watch for flow out the return line.
Don't use too much pressure! or you WILL blow out the tank seam and send gas flying everywhere! This is best done with the car outside!
If you don't want to use air pressure, just blowing on the hose at the gas cap should do the trick and give your lungs a good workout.
The return tube ends about 1" from the bottom of the tank right by the strainer, so you could empty most of the tank.
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-13-2014).]
A bit of a tangent... I spoke with my insurance agent (State Farm) yesterday, about getting the car added to my insurance. When I started telling him about it, I mentioned that I found it a source of frustration that State Farm does not write "agreed value" policies in GA. He said, "We do, if the car is an antique; in other words, over 25 years old." I mentioned that both of my Fieros are now over 25 years old. He said, "Let me look into it, and call you back." He called back today and said that it was most likely not going to be a problem, but he would have to come and check out the cars. The only restrictions he mentioned are a mileage cap (not known what that limit is, yet) and that it's not used as a "daily driver". He's supposed to call me back again tomorrow. He also said that it would likely save me some money.
I just did the "Collector" car over 25 years old insurance with Grundy. It is WAY cheaper in MI because it also reduces the $186.00 / year / per vehicle MCCA (Michigan Catastrophic Claims Association) surcharge down to $37.20.
If you take off the return line and run a hose from it into a can, and can rig up a fiero gas cap to accept a compressed air fitting (drill/tap for a quick disconnect fitting), using very low air pressure (below 5 psi) you should be able to empty the tank. Install the modified cap, apply light pressure and watch for flow out the return line.
Don't use too much pressure! or you WILL blow out the tank seam and send gas flying everywhere! This is best done with the car outside!
If you don't want to use air pressure, just blowing on the hose at the gas cap should do the trick and give your lungs a good workout.
The return tube ends about 1" from the bottom of the tank right by the strainer, so you could empty most of the tank.
Thanks for that. Good info, but in this particular installation, there doesn't appear to be a return line. The fuel feed goes through a clear inline filter and is dead-headed into a strange (to me) adjustable regulator. This regulator is chrome, about 2" in diameter, and has a "click dial" with about six positions. It's on position "4". From there, it goes straight to the carbs. I figure that the return line is probably capped off somewhere under the car. Also, the vent line still goes to the canister, but the other fittings on the canister are capped off.
I still have an old inline Holley "red" pump. I was thinking (but not too seriously) about doing away with the in-tank pump and trying this one. Haven't made up my mind yet.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-13-2014).]
I noticed in the pictures of the original car, and comparing your pics and some I have of the engine that there is a difference in the fuel rail if that is a fuel rail running along the top edge of the valve cover. The original installation had a line coming off the left end of the fuel rail while your and my pics don't have that line. Could that possibly be a return?
As for the regulator, that's the style we used to use on VW engines when we went to bigger or multiple carbs. Press down on the knob and turn it one click and release. I don't remember what the numbers correspond to but I think there was a conversion chart that came with the regulators. At that time you could get them at KMart or most any auto parts stores.
Thanks Charlie. That line does look like a fuel rail, but it is actually a vacuum manifold. The right end is connected to the power brake tube. I'm not sure what was connected to the left end. Maybe a vacuum gauge, or some vacuum operated accessory. Maybe it went to the vapor canister?
The one I used was from Hilborn when I bought the Stack Injection, it's pictured below forward left of distributor mounted in firewall. It Allen wrench adjustable with lock nut, has pressure gauge attached to it. You should be able to find a lower pressure unit for carbs with gauge on it as well.
What are the brass fittings with the black tubes attached? (I'm thinking the injectors are on the "back" side of the stacks, below the rails... right?) Are you spraying it?
What are the brass fittings with the black tubes attached? (I'm thinking the injectors are on the "back" side of the stacks, below the rails... right?) Are you spraying it?
Hilborn was kinda clever in that they wanted to maintain the old look with those hoses, now they just supply vacuum information via sensor for computer. The injectors are all on rails running in between the intake ports down the center.
Not spraying anything, engine built to hit 500 HP and run up to 7,500 rpm. Didn't want to push above that for transmission reasons. This Hilborn system can be pushed to just over 600 HP and with mechanical lifters (mine are hydraulic, so I wouldn't have to be adjusting on regular basis-too hard on mid-engine) it would easily run to 10,000 rpm. Of course that's a lot of extra cash going into engine, and would require very expensive custom made transmission/axles to hold it - $$$$$.
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