Hello all
I was wondering if anyone in the San Diego area could help me get my car back up and running.
I have a 1987 Fiero GT that I bought from a tow lot, and drove it to vegas a couple months later. While in vegas, it had some coolant issues which made me believe it was a headgasket issue, but I think what the issue is now is the gasket for the coolant tube connecter to the block.
Anyways, while I was removing the coolant pipe, I accidentally ripped off the head of a bolt, and have been stumped as to how to proceed from here.
Also, any and all help/advice for building the engine back up would be greatly appreciated, I have a Haynes manual, but I don't know my car nomenclature very well. (I'm more of a helicopter maintainer myself )
I will be watching this thread until I get my car up and running.


Here is a picture of the bolt I need removed:

You may get lucky with an easy out... drill the center of the bolt to appropriate size and then the easy out screws in/grabs the bolt and removes it.
http://www.harborfreight.co...actor-set-40349.html

If you you don't have the space to get a drill in the area to use a standard bolt extractor, you may be able to use a bolt extractor socket (I think I got my set at sears, has reverse corkscrew like teeth that cut into the bolt) or you may be able to weld on a nut onto the bolt.

It looks like you have a fair amount of the bolt protruding. I would hose that thing down with PB Blaster or Freeze Off and then use a small hacksaw blade or, better yet, a Dremel, and cut a slot into the top of the exposed stud. Then use a screwdriver to back it out. With the tension off the bolt, it will probably come out a lot easier. If that fails, you can use a file or a Dremel to file down the sides of the exposed stud so they're flat and grab them with the locking pliers (eg, Vice Grips). Tap gently on the pliers with a hammer and try and shock it loose. If both of those fail, you still have the option of an EZ Out.

Weld a nut to the top. Do not cut a slot, it will only make more problems for you.

Looks like there is enough stud exposed to put a pair of vice grips on REALLY tight and turn, if you have the room.. Drilling out can be successful if you are careful, and don't break off the bit.

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86 Fiero GT: 3800sc/Manual, Cam/Mods.

Seal off the opening before you do anything! You don't want and filings or chips to get down in there.

http://www.matcotools.com/c...D-COBALT-DRILL-BITS/


This should do the trick. Also, the drill bits are left hand, so it may even run the bolt out while drilling into it.

alright so I've discussed with some of my coworkers about the slit thing with a sawzall and it seems like a good idea. Why would it be bad to make an open slit in the bolt?
One of my friends suggested the vice grips too, I'll try that one out first.
Bolt is resting in a **** ton of PB Blaster right now.

Also, can I get the replacement bolt at any regular car place, like O'Reillys or Auto Zone?

use a dremel to cut a nice clean slot. Also, heat the bolt and cool it. Get a pick in there and clean around the threads... then hit with heat, pb blaster, cool, etc... Cool the surrounding area before trying to turn bolt.

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 01-28-2015).]

I wouldn't say it's a bad idea, and nothing wrong with trying it, however if the bolt is stuck in there bad enough to break off, I'm not sure your going to be able to get enough torque on the bolt with just the slit or vice grips, but who knows you might get luckily, I never do.

quote Originally posted by midlifecrisis: Weld a nut to the top. Do not cut a slot, it will only make more problems for you.

I second this idea! The heat from welding the nut will help break loose any corrosion and being that it is in aluminum it is super easy.

I've seen many a times when someone has fought to remove a broken bolt with all the other methods discussed above only to finally resort to finding a welder who could do this trick.

If you have a welder I highly suggest giving it a try. If you don't have a welder I suggest finding a friend who does have one.

quote Originally posted by MalleableList: alright so I've discussed with some of my coworkers about the slit thing with a sawzall and it seems like a good idea. Why would it be bad to make an open slit in the bolt?

Not a sawzall, a Dremel. You need to make a tiny slit for a flat blade screwdriver using a cutoff wheel. The heat from the cutting will help work on the corrosion. You're going for this:

quote One of my friends suggested the vice grips too, I'll try that one out first.

If you don't make FAST work with the vice grips stop. If you mess up that stud to the point you can't do the Dremel trick then you're hosed short of welding or an ez-out. I would do the Dremel first, and failing that you can use the Dremel to square off the sides of the stud to give vice grips something to really grab onto.

You can buy a replacement bolt anywhere - auto parts store or a hardware store. I recommend some anti-seize when reinstalling to help avoid this from happening again.

Edit: Wait, these bolts might protrude into the water jacket - I don't know offhand. If that's the case, no anti-seize but instead use Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant. It will seal the threads and help prevent corrosion in the future.

Alright guys thanks for the replies
I have a friend with a couple of the tools suggested coming to help me out with the bolt
I'll post the results when I'm done :d