When i close or open my 87' GT headlights the drivers side motor keeps spinning for 5-10 seconds then stops. Can anyone help me out with this? Also, the dogbone looks kinda crooked, is it alright?
And i wrapped the trim in carbon recently, thought you all might like to see as someone suggested for my console cap peeling back, i clamped it and superglued. Going to clamp a few more spots one i re wrap the trim
------------------ 87' GT 5 speed 😤 15 years old
[This message has been edited by painandgain99 (edited 10-03-2015).]
Thank you very much, ive been looking for thr decal. Im going to re wrap everything first, i did a cruddy job. And is this the only problem with the headlights you think thatd make them do that?
You may have some deteriorating engine or transmission mounts causing the dogbone to be a little off.
Good job on the wrap. I used some on my truck after a garage person touched a plastic trim piece surrounding my keypad entry. He must have had brake fluid on his hands because it left his hand print burned into it. Wrapped the plexi trim piece and it looks like it's factory.
The 87-88 Headlights are very reliable. The little nylon bushings are designed to be sacrificial in case the headlights get jammed, but over time they turn to dust. The good news is they are easily replaced and your headlights are good as new. The motor stops after a few seconds and will not run down your battery. The earlier generation has far worse problems that are not as easily repaired. They will run forever until your battery runs down when the limit sensor fails.
Bad engine or transmission mounts aren't real real serious. The dogbone will keep the motor from falling out on the ground. Seriously, though, you'll start to notice the car chug a little when changing gear or when accelerating and decelerating. The dogbone takes up some of that torque, but the motor and trans mounts help. They aren't all that hard to change if you have a moderate mechanical ability and a floor jack and stands. Look at the rubber in the mounts and if they're oil soaked, they probably should be replaced.
Bad engine or transmission mounts aren't real real serious. The dogbone will keep the motor from falling out on the ground. Seriously, though, you'll start to notice the car chug a little when changing gear or when accelerating and decelerating. The dogbone takes up some of that torque, but the motor and trans mounts help. They aren't all that hard to change if you have a moderate mechanical ability and a floor jack and stands. Look at the rubber in the mounts and if they're oil soaked, they probably should be replaced.
Based on mine, does it look bad? Do i have a few months before having to fix it you think
The engine doesn't always sit perfectly straight. Depends upon how the mounts were positioned. I couldn't tell you if yours need replacing without actually looking at them.
For those looking for headlight motor repair and perhaps longer lasting reliability Cardone now offers new headlight motors for around $85. More expensive than the easy bushing fix but the new motors operate much smoother than repaired motors and may last longer.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Originally posted by painandgain99: When i close or open my 87' GT headlights the drivers side motor keeps spinning for 5-10 seconds then stops. Can anyone help me out with this?
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Thanks for all the help guys. Now that one headlight wont go up unless i help it, it goes up fine when the hood is up. Just doesnt have the strength to open the cover on the hood alone. Should i not use it until i fix this or will it be ok to open manually?
Open the hood and let it go up or help it if needed then close the hood. As Ogre indicted, the relay module will disengage power after a prescribed time, so the motor won't continue to run.
Thanks for all the help guys. Now that one headlight wont go up unless i help it, it goes up fine when the hood is up. Just doesnt have the strength to open the cover on the hood alone. Should i not use it until i fix this or will it be ok to open manually?
you can use it this way indefinitely, but it will continue to get worse until it won't move at all on it's own.
Also, funny enough i just realized i had power locks. The drivers side locks and unlocks after 2 or 3 pushes, but the passenger tries to but seems like it cant move enough. Any help?
The mechanism inside the doors could use some cleaning and lubrication, but in the meantime, just keep repeatedly pushing the button until you get the result you want.
The Ford window bushings years ago were worth it. I'm pretty sure they were turned Delrin or Nylon or similar. No the same thing these days. They are now injection molded something and seem to fail at a much faster rate than the turned Delrin. But from the picture they do look softer so that could be a worthy argument. I've had more than a few order mine (For Ford electric windows and headlight motors) after they used the Help bushings saying they did not last very long. Anyone here have a similar experience using the Help bushings?
------------------ Rodney Dickman
Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page: All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories 7604 Treeview Drive Caledonia, WI 53108 Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575
The Ford window bushings years ago were worth it. I'm pretty sure they were turned Delrin or Nylon or similar. No the same thing these days. They are now injection molded something and seem to fail at a much faster rate than the turned Delrin. But from the picture they do look softer so that could be a worthy argument. I've had more than a few order mine (For Ford electric windows and headlight motors) after they used the Help bushings saying they did not last very long. Anyone here have a similar experience using the Help bushings?
Thanks rodney, love your store im getting your clutch master cylinder soon.
Can anyone link me to a tutorial on how to disassemble and reassemble the headlight motor? Couldnt find a good detailed tutorial.
Originally posted by Rodney: The Ford window bushings years ago were worth it. I'm pretty sure they were turned Delrin or Nylon or similar. No the same thing these days. They are now injection molded something and seem to fail at a much faster rate than the turned Delrin. But from the picture they do look softer so that could be a worthy argument. I've had more than a few order mine (For Ford electric windows and headlight motors) after they used the Help bushings saying they did not last very long. Anyone here have a similar experience using the Help bushings?
Have you or anyone call/email Dorman? Current product is clear plastic. Old one above look about same as OE HL pins. There are allot of old parts still in inventory at many outlets.
I won't trust most people saying Dorman are junk, new or old version of pins, Because other reasons why the pins can break but most people just blame the pins. The Internet is very good at pushing Myths and the bad the better.
Gen2 HL module a bit late on killing power can overload the pins. If the door and/or lift are binding that can overload the pins too. Overloading can break/shear the pins then grind them to dust. While a pain to replace the pins... Is allot easier and cheaper then replace/fix the gear or output shaft.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I ask Dorman today what family plastic both versions are make of and they tell me "Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) is what they’re made of." I guess same family/class but different formulas... You can look up charts etc for this from many sources.
as someone suggested for my console cap peeling back, i clamped it and superglued. Going to clamp a few more spots one i re wrap the trim
Seriously, though, you'll start to notice the car chug a little when changing gear or when accelerating and decelerating. The dogbone takes up some of that torque, but the motor and trans mounts help. They aren't all that hard to change if you have a moderate mechanical ability and a floor jack and stands. Look at the rubber in the mounts and if they're oil soaked, they probably should be replaced. 
