I am rapidly approaching the day where I will post my first set of reproduction GT quarters windows
The originals had a green tint to them that I can achieve with acrylic. However, PETG windows will be significantly more durable. The whole point of reproducing was to make them as accurate as possible with the best fit and finish. Color does make a difference but is that outweighed by durability?
I believe most purists would like to have the slight green tint so they could be as accurate as the originals. However, as long as they are formed correctly with the true curve, dot matrix pattern, GT badge, etc. then most people would be OK with the clear or slightly dark tinted option as are out there currently. I believe if you are able to give all three options, they would all be popular. Just my two cents worth. If using a material that has the green tint is not as strong, then definitely I would stay with the clear and/or slight darker tint options. Curtis
I would say that the contour, fit and dotted paint scheme would be important. If an attempt is made to reproduce it is important to have those windows looking like the OEM units. If you cannot tint with green then perhaps a very pale shade of gray would work
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I prefer durability. I don't want to have to replace them in a few years because they suffered the same fate as the originals. I like the tinted look, but not green. Green doesn't look good with the white of my current Fiero. Perhaps for MinnGreenGT.
I prefer durability. I don't want to have to replace them in a few years because they suffered the same fate as the originals. I like the tinted look, but not green. Green doesn't look good with the white of my current Fiero. Perhaps for MinnGreenGT.
The original green tint was to match the green tint of the door windows. However, after 25-30 years, most sail panels and door windows on Fieros have had the original tinting faded out from UV exposure. Those with new OEM tint door glass would probably prefer to have matching tint on the sail panels, especially if doing a stock restoration. Others might prefer clear or grey tint, or even very dark tinting.
Personally, I prefer dark tinting, without the matrix pattern, and with no badging.
At present time my drivers slide has only a very light crack (hardly noticeable) under the surface. Passenger side is more or less perfect except for age. I would probably only consider an exact replacement at this time. Down the road I might be less fussy.
I'm going to be experimenting with some ways to get green tint on the PETG. Because PETG is highly chemical resistant, it is difficult to glue and paint so trying to find a transparent paint that will stick and last could prove difficult. If I can't, I'll probably end up doing both.
No UV resistance is the issue with dying. With that comes the issue of having to clear coat everything adding more cost. RIght now, I am shooting for $300 a set, which is not much more than the ones that are available now. If I have to perfectly clear every window, which would likely include a color sand and buff, that would blow that figure right out of the water.
Right now, my sail panels are fine. However, if one of them broke while removing them to get the car ready for paint, I really wouldn't care if it had the OEM green tint. The ones that are on the car now don't have it (they've been replaced by PO) and it really doesn't bother me. I'd be much more concerned about the dot pattern on the edge of the clear part and how well it matched the original window's contour.
------------------ -Chris '85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD) '88 GT - Series 3 SC3800 w/ 3.5" pulley, 1.8" rockers, 3" exhaust, 3.5" intake, 3.29 gearing. Installed and tuned by Sinister Performance '99 Kawasaki Vulcan 500, owned since new '09 G37x Sedan w/ Premium & Nav (wife's car) '13 G37xS Sedan (new daily driver) '14 Yamaha FJR - 0-60 in 2.8s w/ 34MPG!!!
Any one of us would want the whole package. Perfect reproduction in bulletproof style. But I would venture to say that the purists demanding 100% originality are also the people who garage their precious toys and trailer them to shows. Durability is less a factor to that situation. I say, if you're willing to buy an aftermarket repro, you can live without the intricate green tint. Those folks are more prone to buy NOS parts anyway, even if they are incredibly hard to find. I, myself, just seek an upgrade over the hideous, cracked originals on both of my cars. Nothing lasts forever, and I have been a NOS parts seeker most of my driving life. What do I do, but cringe, when I install a new part like that, anyway? All in all, pick the route that brings you the most customer satisfaction and the profits you deserve for your efforts.
If I were to need a set, I would probably want gray tinted, with no "GT" emblems. (Custom emblems might be a selling point, if you could swing it.) I'm not really in the market, just now. Just throwing out suggestions. Good luck.
The ones I currently have are a DARK gray. They have the dot matrix around the edges, and no GT emblems. Just a preference of mine, and an example of what's typically been available from other vendors.
The lighter gray was probably suggested because there are now gray tinted door glass windows available. As others have said, the restorers and the real purists will probably prefer the light green tint. The customizers will probably prefer the gray (and dark gray) ones.
Again... I am not requesting these for myself. The ones I have are in good shape, and I also have a spare set.
Here's mine. (Pic borrowed from pgackerman.) These are Fiero Warehouse (I believe by Chris Cook) windows.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-01-2016).]
I will be in the market for 1/4 windows at some point, and the most important thing to me would be accurate shape. Following the curve of the car, turning in at the door glass as it should. I personally would want stock style dot matrix and logo, but I couldn't care less about if its got the right green tint. My car if far from stock. Personally, I would gladly trade the green tint for increased durability. I would actually prefer a more grey/neutral color.
Looks like I need to have a few different options. I guess that's the way it is. Not too much more work, I just hate acrylic. If I could completely remove it from my shop I would be tickled pink
I remember reading that people bought replacements from tfs or eBay and they were applied with Double sided tape and they blew off. Some even used some sort of adhesive and the same thing happened.
I have heard gray tint a couple times now. Any reason for that?
Dark gray tint more closely matches tinted (legal spec) door glass (where the OE green tinting has faded out from UV), and the aftermarket reproduction door glass from prosource that was available with gray tint.
Anyone that bought these door glass panels, and then wanted reproduction sail panels, I would expect to want a similar tint on the sail panels, rather than the OE light green tinting.
I remember reading that people bought replacements from tfs or eBay and they were applied with Double sided tape and they blew off. Some even used some sort of adhesive and the same thing happened.
How will yours be applied?
thanks for making these available slammed
generally, the problem wasn't because of the tape or adhesive medium used, but due to the incorrect ink being used to print the windows. The ink or paint was not of the correct type to bond to the window material, so irregardless of the adhesive used, if the window coating turned loose, the tape or adhesive medium was still stuck to the vehicle.
For plexiglass, the best coating is an acrylic ink. If printing on Lexan or any polycarbonate, a catlized polyester ink is best. The ink must form a mechanical bond with it's substrate and these ink formulations are designed for those particular substrates.
You can see in this photo that the ink peels away from the window and the window finish is still a nice shiny surface. This indicates there was no mechanical bond.
This photo shows the edge where the double side tape was applied. The tape was still on the body of the car, but the paint from the window turned loose and was stuck to the double side tape.
Other areas where the ink turned loose from the window, leaving the tape adhered to the body of the car.
These windows WERE NOT Chris Cook's windows. They were replaced with Chris's windows, using double side tape, and they've had no issues for the past 3 or 4 years.
I personally would like a set in the darker gray tint as some above have mentioned. They were not offered this way OEM, but a few reproduction makers have done it, and I really personally like the look.
I agree that offering couple of options would probably be a wise choice. This way people can get what they want, and not balk at a price that is too high. They can have the option of the standard for you mentioned estimate of $300, or the cleared and wet sanded, and cut and buffed version for a higher price.
It would also probably be beneficial to find a way to easily include or exclude the "GT" lettering, as it's probably gonna be a 50/50 split for those that want the lettering or not.
On a side note, if you have access to an OEM pair, get the measurements where the "GT" logo is on the window. The ones from Chris Cook's flat windows are like 2 inches off on the lettering placement.
Here is the darker gray tint on Chris Cook's windows. They are virtually flat, and this set was completely too small for the opening. The only redeeming quality is the tint color, and the nicely reproduced dot matrix pattern on the border:
[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 10-17-2016).]
I am further along than I have talked about simply because I don't want to get ahead of myself. Which is why I am slowly posting about my lenses and only when I have real updates and a timeline I can stick to
The molds for these are done. I have clear windows that are 100% accurate right now. They were a cake walk compared to the tail lights... It is just the screen printing(mostly inks) that I am still working on. I should have good finished examples next week. Possibly as soon as this weekend
I managed and owned screen printing and sign shops for over 30 years. I got my best results using NazDar inks and highly recommend them.
To test adhesion, pull a 3 inch square print on scrap material and dry it. Then using clear Scotch Tape do a 'snatch' test as if you were doing a hot wax hair removal. If the ink peels, you don't have the right one.
I don't mean to derail the thred, but has anyone tried tinting their oem qtr windows with VHT night shades? I've done tail lights before, but I'm worried about ruining the oem qtr windows on my car.
I don't know how it would ruin them. Just don't try to take them off to do it.
After messing around with some different options for coloring, I think I am just going to make all of them PETG and dye then clear the green ones. They will cost more, but it looks like the people who want them are in the minority
I personally would like a set in the darker gray tint as some above have mentioned. They were not offered this way OEM, but a few reproduction makers have done it, and I really personally like the look.
I agree that offering couple of options would probably be a wise choice. This way people can get what they want, and not balk at a price that is too high. They can have the option of the standard for you mentioned estimate of $300, or the cleared and wet sanded, and cut and buffed version for a higher price.
It would also probably be beneficial to find a way to easily include or exclude the "GT" lettering, as it's probably gonna be a 50/50 split for those that want the lettering or not.
On a side note, if you have access to an OEM pair, get the measurements where the "GT" logo is on the window. The ones from Chris Cook's flat windows are like 2 inches off on the lettering placement.
Here is the darker gray tint on Chris Cook's windows. They are virtually flat, and this set was completely too small for the opening. The only redeeming quality is the tint color, and the nicely reproduced dot matrix pattern on the border:
I can tell you one thing that contributes to your windows being too small is because you have no drip edge. Mine are Chris Cooks and I would venture to say if the ones he made fit yours they would have been too big for mine.
Originally posted by TXGOOD: I can tell you one thing that contributes to your windows being too small is because you have no drip edge. Mine are Chris Cooks and I would venture to say if the ones he made fit yours they would have been too big for mine.
Originally posted by TXGOOD: I can tell you one thing that contributes to your windows being too small is because you have no drip edge.
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It was a long heated debate in the thread linked to above. In the end the set that I had were indeed cut too small. The replacements that MAACO purchased were a half inch taller as you can see in this photo. The Old one that was too small on top of the replacements. The new ones fit PERFECTLY with the drip rail still removed, and fill the entire window area. The fitment of the second pair was fantastic, all though they are still virtuall flat. They are on the car now, and will stay on the car, till I get a new set from Slammed when they are available
Slammed: I am sure you know what you are doing, but it is worth mentioning, that doing some research, Chris's windows varied in size quite a bit. A good jig to cut with is essential. As mentioned, I will be buying a set of these from you when they are ready.
[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 10-17-2016).]
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