I want to swap out my 2 OEM headlights for 4 of the smaller new types. Any suggestions on a source/donor vehicle for the lamps?

I also plan on converting the stock -PIA- actuating system to a worm gear driven setup. The above changes should provide an easy to adjust and reliable lamp height system with improved illumination. Presently, I'm not sure if I'll make the setup for others.

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my 86 2.8 intercooled turbo


[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/user/francis44/media/69ba83f6-9cfd-4291-88fe-5a4ea85369e4_zpsd980ade4.jpg.html]
my 87 norm aspri but highy modified 2.8

You might look at the headlight motors for the Celica Supra of the 80's. It's a very strong motor. Also, do a search for the headlights on PFF. Someone here (I don't remember who) makes a system that only raises partially, uses projector lights, and looks much cleaner than the stock Fiero lights. Would look really good on your car.

Danyel makes a badass kit.
Here

[This message has been edited by Oregon88 (edited 10-25-2016).]

Thanks for relies guys

I'm sure you know of these...http://www.projectorretrofit.com/

Bob

quote Originally posted by Francis T: I also plan on converting the stock -PIA- actuating system to a worm gear driven setup. The above changes should provide an easy to adjust and reliable lamp height system with improved illumination. Presently, I'm not sure if I'll make the setup for others.

And how are you going to control this.

Fiero does have problems but Both are design to stop at end of travel and also Ice jams or anything stopping the doors open close or anywhere in between open/close.
Gen 2 is much better but Gen 1 try to protect the bucket etc too. See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor

Means counting steps for open/close is not enough. If you don't monitor power load then will wreck the replacement motor, door and/or bucket.

quote Originally posted by Oregon88: Danyel makes a badass kit. Here

Problem is His and others will damage the doors because they cut off the bearing points on the bucket that hit the door strips to stop grinding the fiberglass.
Main bucket has only Two points that hits plastic bearing strips underside of the door.
Trim has two more as backup and one, both or none can hit the door when fully open. Trim is Polypropylene and does not get load to open the doors so little risk of damaging either part.
Anything else hitting the door then likely bucket alignment is off and/or trim is warped.

Evening Ogre ---- I'm lucky enough to live in Francis's neck of the woods. I haven't seen his prototype of this but if there is anyone who can work out the details --- he's the one! I messed around with a setup using a linier actuator that worked quite well, but when I converted to the gen II system I stopped tinkering with it. I might pick up the project again this winter as time permits.

And by the way --- Thanks for all the help and great technical info you provide to us here on the forum.!!!!!

Steve

Motor drive voltage will be from relays with control for said relays via a DPDT center-off toggle switch and micro switches for travel limits. I've been using a DPDT toggle on my 86 GT for a long time without problems.

I just done away the the problem completely and went to fixed, recessed lights I made myself and covered with lexan lenses.

These are the ones on my Ferrari kit.

how can you see? The headlights are pointing toward the back of the car.

I see what you did there

No those are my do it urself airbags...

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I just done away the the problem completely and went to fixed, recessed lights I made myself and covered with lexan lenses. These are the ones on my Ferrari kit.

I thought about doing something like what you did for my Freros. My son did a similar setup on one of his MR2s; the results of which looked great, but they sucked functionally. Whereas he lost most of his close in -low beams- illumination. I suspect your setup is likewise.

No problems with mine at all. On black country roads they would light up signs 1/2 mile down the road. MUCH better than oem Fiero lights ever did. Only problem I ever ran into was driving in ice storms, the covers would ice over. I just used the under bumper driving lights in that case. Clear lenses have been over headlites for many years in Europe. US stifled anything that wasnt DOT certified. Ford GT40s, Ferraris, Porsches, Jaguars, etc...all with no problem. The headlights that ARE a problem are the US DOT and European ones on current cars that basicly turn into dim parking lights after a few years.
I just polished out a set of headlites on a Volvo that barely made a spot of light on my garage door. On the street they didnt light up more than 10' in front of it.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: No problems with mine at all. On black country roads they would light up signs 1/2 mile down the road. MUCH better than oem Fiero lights ever did. Only problem I ever ran into was driving in ice storms, the covers would ice over. I just used the under bumper driving lights in that case. Clear lenses have been over headlites for many years in Europe. US stifled anything that wasnt DOT certified. Ford GT40s, Ferraris, Porsches, Jaguars, etc...all with no problem. The headlights that ARE a problem are the US DOT and European ones on current cars that basicly turn into dim parking lights after a few years. I just polished out a set of headlites on a Volvo that barely made a spot of light on my garage door. On the street they didnt light up more than 10' in front of it.

I;m glad they work for you.

He had some flaw in his idea/ design if they didnt light very well. I drove this car as a year round daily driver for 7 years/100K...most of which had these lights. Lots of this was cross country roadtrip nitetime driving. I made much better time going from midnite to 6am.