Hi all...!

Just a heads up.. I feel this should be in the construction zone but because I'm new at this ( posting a "New Topic" and all ) so bare with me... I'm not authorized to post in that section?--

Regardless--- I'd like to share my new exhaust system that I just recently finished. I took the liberty of taking a lot of photos while the build was happening.. as I do all my projects so beware if you have Sloow dial up.. Anyway -- shall we start?

I began finding all the stainless mandrel bends I could find but at a good deal, of course... Just to show you some.--- and boy do I have left overs.. Thinking a turbo setup is in the future.. bolt in swap, sort of thing.. Alright.. enough... back to the basics



and now the cutting and NEVER ENDING filing started

To help mock up the pipe, I used my engine... and!.... since it was out at the time anyway. But to let you in on my thoughts for the design, I wanted it to look stock (I live in California) and yes, I included the CAT with this new system. I also wanted to use all the existing heat shields because you know why.. we won't say here though.

So here we go....

Here is evident that I'm following the original log design -- but with better flow from the start, I think. I'm also using 1 5/8" OD stainless steel pipe in 16GA thickness for the primaries... The ID measured roughly 1 1/2".... Oh!-- the flanges are 3/8" thick but in mild steel, unfortunately... They are laser cut, though.



I think this starting shape might also help with the scavenging effect?



NOW PLEASE NOTE!!-- I'm not the best welder.. and I don't even have a 220 unit. What I did use, though, for the tack is a 140HD mig turned up + MAP gas for pre-heating. It was crazy how hard it was to penetrate without the pre-heat.. At the time I planned on taking it to a place out here that'll professionally tig it up for me so don't worry... no messin it all up on my part!





So next in the design... I felt that I wanted the exhaust to flow a little more free so I added an adapter from 1 5/8" to 2" OD. This transition will end in a V-band style clamp system

here's a picture from the internet showing what they look like if your not familiar..








----- So I think that a good start so far.. More details to come! sorry.. it's late already.. I know it was a bad teaser..


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[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-24-2016).]

okay..okay.. I can't take it anymore.. I need to post MORE

here's.....The lovely.....! -- EGR




NOW!-- what I think is the best part.... The Y section! and into the CAT.... I want to also add that I'm using the original mounting exhaust tabs and springs.. NO cutting! The 2to1 collector is a 2" to a 2 1/2"... also V-band clamp style





Here is one of the mounting tabs (exhaust side) that the spring hooks to





the little turtles (what I call them) worked excellent!

So after the catalytic converter comes that sweeping turn into the oil pan's area.. The 2 1/2 is just MASSiVe looking,, that I LOVE it SOO much.. oh.. optical illusion.. that bolt in the picture is not close at all.. It just looks as if from this angle



Okay.. more to come tomorrow.. The muffler is next!

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-21-2017).]

This is some beautiful work man... Keep it up!

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"Discord"
Red 1988 GT under restoration!

Let's Go Mets!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

Wow looks great ! Would you be making any sets for sale?? I'm very interested?

That is just dead sexy!

Do you do custom work? I might need some manifolds for a 3500/3900 swap. (They have specific heads. Not sure if the ports are the same as the 3400 heads, or not. I'd have to get you a template or gasket for the port configuration, I guess.)

Nice stuff! And congrats on the 1st new topic post

Very nice. I would love to have such a nice, clean setup.

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Past:
1988 base coupe sold
1984 base coupe rust
Present:
1986 SE 2m6

I like what you are doing, but would strongly suggest you cut the header flange between the exhaust ports.

You are building the logs very similar to the old KFG headers and those were prone to cracking. The issue is the log portion of the tube runs parallel to the header flange, and is attached at both ends with a very short primary tube (no room for deflection). The log tube will heat up faster and be significantly hotter than the flange, which will make it expand more, but the head flange won't allow for that expansion, so eventually the thinner metal will crack after X number of heat cycles.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...050119-2-051056.html

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-23-2016).]

Guru beat me to it, but I was going to mention that your manifolds look very much like the ones that used to be sold by KFG:

Very nice work.

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: I feel this should be in the construction zone but because I'm new at this ( posting a "New Topic" and all ) so bare with me... I'm not authorized to post in that section?

Admission to the The Construction Zone is all explained by Cliff... HERE

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: I like what you are doing, but would strongly suggest you cut the header flange between the exhaust ports. You are building the logs very similar to the old KFG headers and those were prone to cracking. The issue is the log portion of the tube runs parallel to the header flange, and is attached at both ends with a very short primary tube (no room for deflection). The log tube will heat up faster and be significantly hotter than the flange, which will make it expand more, but the head flange won't allow for that expansion, so eventually the thinner metal will crack after X number of heat cycles. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...050119-2-051056.html

Thanks fieroguru !!!! Damn- I definitely don't want to have that happen. I'll cut the flange before I install them.. I read in that link the 1/8" cut through between all ports.. Great idea! I know I would have an issue with the dip stick clearing too.. Maybe this is the sign... I've seen these other logs by kfg before and were sort of an inspiration for me.. But with changes to suit my needs, of course.. Not one to copy. I, too, talked to the tig man on the types of stainless rods he was using. I wanted to make sure he knew what I had to give him.

Right now, and for smog purposes.. I'm only set up with catalytic back with the new system.. After smog check, they'll go in for the first time.. Running, that is.

Thanks again fieroguru... And thanks everyone for the great comments.. But sorry, my wife would divorce me if a had a production run of these...

More pictures to come tonight after work!

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-28-2016).]

Well Alright!!... shall we continue?

So the next part of the exhaust was kind of tricky.. We've all been through the -- which muffler can I choose from? -- I think there is Spintech, Flowmaster (but I think it has to be modified to fit), Ocelot.... Are there any more?... that'll be a more of a direct replacement. In all, I wasn't fond of the choices when I was searching, especially now that there is no Borla available.. Not even their muffler that they used for us when they made our CAT back kits.. and I don't know how many videos I tried to watch with my engine combo muffler....but let's face it - sound counts for a lot! at least for me.. slow as heck.. but it sounds bad A$$ --- Just a figure of speech though; my Fiero is definitely not slow.

So here I am, torn, wanting a Borla muffler and I started looking into the possibilities. I chose a universal -- https://www.borla.com/produ...er_part__40842s.html

It measures 10" x 5" and 2.5" in/out dia... In comparison to the original Fiero muffler, I felt that this may work... IT'LL BE TIGHT!.. but it may work.



....and the mock up begins... I knew that I wanted to keep the dual out exhaust but with the straight tube style muffler, I had to come up with a design that would allow me to.. oh, as you can see, tape is definitely my friend.



Here, I felt that if I went straight out from the muffler and just added the 180 bent pipe to it, I wouldn't have any flow to the opposite side..?.. So I decided to start the bend up first (to help the flow up) then cut it in half with a Y section, per-say... and ended up with this



Here's my solution






and wala!!..... but to let you in on a little secret, I had to cut the tips off and re-position them up...Though, I could of sworn I had the right angle when I measured plus keeping in mind of the inside trunk angle... but unfortunately, I didn't find out until after the powdercoating -- but in my favor, the engine was still out at the time also.





Okay!--- that was a good segment.. Stay tuned for the next posting!

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: ...and wala

Your french sucks... it's voilà

Aww man...! ---- I forgot another cool picture!

It'll let you see the system in full and how the bends are for wrapping...

This goes beyond beauty. It is almost like Fiero erotica!

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I'll ask again. Any chance your going to make this for sale??

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Your french sucks... it's voilà

It's et voilà.

quote Originally posted by dobey: Nice build. How does it sound?

I've got a taste for you all... I don't want to spoil

Have a great Thanksgiving everyone!

More to come soon!

A real piece of Fine Art in Metal. Can't wait to hear the set-up

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: my wife would divorce me if a had a production run of these...

What if we threw a lot of money at you? Wait wait wait... we're Fiero owners. Ain't going to happen.

Speak for your self I would pay a 1000 for this set up!!

quote Originally posted by jjd2296: Speak for your self I would pay a 1000 for this set up!!

One thousand dollars, eh? In US funds?

Don't get me wrong, it's a beautiful looking exhaust system... but I don't think it would increase the value of my Formula by $1000, nor would it make my Formula $1000 faster at autocross.

quote Originally posted by jjd2296: Speak for your self I would pay a 1000 for this set up!!

With all the stainless parts, paying someone to weld it, and then getting it coated, my guess is he has more than $1000 in the setup.

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: With all the stainless parts, paying someone to weld it, and then getting it coated, my guess is he has more than $1000 in the setup.

not to spoil the beans... But I'd bet you would have to pay MORE than $1000 to have someone to just "labor it ALL" as well as the parts (+) some

So let's just say.. And to get me out of denial..to have a parts list..

I will say, though, that YES, 10-15 horsepower is worth it to me ! -- I will go faster especially to allow my built engine to breathe.. That would be another build thread though.. Not no stock here, just sayin... But I do this all for fun though.. It's not about the money... Tinkering on cars is my passion.. And who wants to watch housewives on TV anyway?

Okay.. Parts list---

*Roughly $300-$350 in pipe plus ship but have some extra.. Stainless is expensive! -- you might get away cheaper with a set mind
*$50 or so in the collector and V-bands but it was a little more than fifty, say $100 due to ordering for a equal length setup 3to1 but changed my mind -- plus a daydream of turbo in the air.. but then I think S/C in the A/C area.. In all, GOODIES!!
*I think the flanges were around $50 with the shipping?..
*$50 (each) for exhaust tips plus ship - polished Vibrant stainless
*$250 for professional tig --- 43 joints .. Then back after I had to reset the tips to match the car after I installed the engine.. So say $280
*$280 for ceramic powdercoat with a copper lining in the logs
*$200 muffler with ship
*$60-70 or so in map gas, tip and misc like cleaners, hacksaw blades, a good file set, stainless brushes... DUST MASKS..a must
*$30+/- in welding wire plus ship --- I have a welder that could tack so I was good there
Money for new exhaust bolts.. Fierostore.. I forgot how much

So what is that?.... Damn.. Almost 15oo?... Yeaaaaah.. It was worth it!

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 12-10-2016).]

Looks good

Everywhere you tacked with mild wire will rust. The deposits go beyond the tack point and you'll never get rid of it all without cutting out way past it, especially with c25 or straight co2. Just something to think about. Your best bet with stainless would be to get some er308l and trimix if you're going to stay with MIG for tacking up.

quote Originally posted by Slammed: Looks good Everywhere you tacked with mild wire will rust. The deposits go beyond the tack point and you'll never get rid of it all without cutting out way past it, especially with c25 or straight co2. Just something to think about. Your best bet with stainless would be to get some er308l and trimix if you're going to stay with MIG for tacking up.

sorry.. no mild steel mig wire used.. that would be STUPID on my part.. Research is key to all - (edit to say-- that after reading the thread again I missed some key points; like the type of welding wire used.. Or what the stock dia of the Fiero manifold is - 1 3/8" vs mine new, etc -- sorry) .....

thanks for the heads up though.. but you're a little late on that

but with the mild steel flange I found some 309 fluxcore for the various metals

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-26-2016).]

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: sorry.. no mild steel mig wire used.. that would be STUPID on my part.. Research is key to all -- thanks for the heads up though.. but you're a little late on that but with the mild steel flange I found some 309 fluxcore for the various metals

Hey! Good job then lol Turned out great

quote Originally posted by Slammed: Hey! Good job then lol Turned out great

right on! thanks

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-25-2016).]

quote Originally posted by unboundmo:

Looks like you forgot to cut the flanges before you had them coated.

quote Originally posted by lateFormula: Looks like you forgot to cut the flanges before you had them coated.

Yeah... It was discussed earlier in this thread about the prone to cracking with the flange in one piece... Live and learn, I guess

When I posted this thread, the work was already completed. I will cut them prior to the install

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-22-2017).]

I wouldn't worry about it. You can tell the welds are cold, or passed once and gone over on the example manifold above that cracked. And they were obviously stopping and starting, not actual pulse. Notice the dimples in the center of each weld and the very little overlap. The welding on yours aren't crazily better, but they do seem to have a lot fewer start and stops.

I've built dozens upon dozens of headers and split flanges aren't necessary with good technique and clamping.

[This message has been edited by Slammed (edited 11-25-2016).]

Yeah, I see.... But I think mine are a better penetration too than the cracked example... Their shop (the place that tig welded for me) has candy lying all around when I go there. I felt confident that they knew what they were doing. Only time will tell..

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-26-2016).]

That's what I mean by cold. The beads are really raised up on the face of the tube and if you go to the link posted you can see the inside of the tubes and the penetration was minimal, but have a ton of heat input which is evidence of a second pass to "pretty up" the welds. Great way to do it if you want cracks lol

So here it is.. The Final Fit!

The tips I chose were the Vibrant dual out.. The inlet is 2 1/2" to (2) 3 1/2" out polished stainless.. Good quality, I think for the price



That exhaust fit tight... but I'll bang on it -- to see for any rattles or hit anything.. It doesn't





I know..looks like I still need to have an alignment..Camber is way out... Still in progress.. I haven't even driven the car yet.. I'm getting antsy



How do you guys like the outcome?

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 11-27-2016).]