Easy8: Yes, that was why I wanted a fuel pressure meter, should be obvious if thats the problem if the pressure drops at the same time it start to misfire.

Hmm, so its so much troubles dropping the tank, it didnt look that har dlooking in service manuals.. Hmm not so funny, but I guess it have to be done. not really looking forward to it anyway.

Also I have the problem of cleaning the tank, I had the same problem on one of my motorcycles (Suzuki GS500e '81), the tank was full of rust and it clogged the carbs, in that case it was easy to remove the tank ofcourse so I removed it and cleaned the tank first with alcohol, then citric acid until all rust was gone, then water and alcohol after that, perfect, the tank was now clean! ..the problem was that it was only rust and paint that held it togethler so I got a lot of leaks after that.. I have soldered several of the holes but as soon as I fix one it start leaking in another place.. probably have to get one of those "tank in tank" solutions.. Anyway.. thats a different story.

Rexgirl: Ah, you are right, but strangely enough it appears if I do a search for "fuel pressure" hmm.. If O know the name of the testport I could probably find something, maybe even the meter I fould locally would work, but no guarantees..

Actually I have one of those laying around too..

https://www.biltema.se/bil-...yckmatare-2000016980

They are cheap and is supposed to work for fuel too.. It probably not have the correct range however, 10PSI seem to be very low, probably made for carburettor pressure and not fuel injection..

Unfortunatly I don't think he want to go around and try to find one, he probably want me to order it so he can just bring it home.

Repulsiv,
Yeah I sort of missed that in your post (read the posts completly) There are american cars in the EU so there should be a fuel pressure tester there, you do not need anything fancy or expensive. We have the old stand by cheap Chinese Harbor frieght here. This is what you are looking for:

https://www.harborfreight.c...mp-tester-62623.html

To remove a Fiero fuel tank you need to crawl under the car and disconnect the hoses and wiring going the tank. Sounds easier than it really is. Then pull the plate and remove the straps. Once done you can lower it. Reverse to get it back in. Most of us do not have access to a lift so all of this is done on your back under the car in very tight confines. Its just not fun.

As far as cleaning out the tank, you will face the exact same issues with the Fiero tank as your bikes. Acid will remove the rust and probably cause leaks. You can get products to seal the tank again but I have never had much luck with them in the past. Check your PM's.

Here is a helpful page that describes what is needed to replace the Fiero's fuel pump and strainer :
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/096769.html

The C-4 Corvette may use a similar Schrader Valve to our Fiero's, but I am not positive that is true.

The Fiero is alive!

Now the weather start to get better and I have decided to take down the tank, make it empty, clean it with alcohol, use a rust-transformer made for gastanks in it and then clean it withn alcohol again.
After that I will replace the fuel strain, or maybe the pump too, have not decided yet.. which ones on rockauto are REALLY plug'n'play ? with same connectors and everything ?

Anyway, reading up on the howto rexgirl posted the link to, I just wonder one thing, the cable to the pump, taht is routed into the passenger compartment, where do you disconnect that ?
can you pull it out so long that you can disconnect it later ? or ?

funny enough it seem like the fuel strain is really easy to buy in sweden, one model of volvo had the same part as understood it ..and volvo parts i veeery common here.

Everything you need to know about pulling the fuel tank is in the link above. The connectors for the fuel tank wiring are on the engine bay side of the firewall. Once the connectors are released, the wiring will come out with the tank. Maybe this pic will help a little (ignore the red lines):

Sorry, I don't remember who posted this pic originally.

You would be very wise to change the fuel pump when you have the tank out. The guys here like Delco parts. I believe them.

The fuel tank is.. DOWN.

Not fun at all.

I followed https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/096769.html mostly, but did some things different.. for example I removed the heat shield completly, it was 4 screws and
made it possible to disconnect the cable from under the car. I also removed the fasternes for the pipes that go along the tank to give a bit mroe space to move it.

I also didnt see the third fuel line.. so I thought "maybe thats because its V6 or from another year".. yea right, when I took the tank down I found it and it was full of fuel too..
WAS.. seconds later the fuel was in my face instead.

The biggest problems where to remove those hoses.. they really liked their pipes also I got a gasoline shower a few times, including in my face, lucky enough I had safety goggles,
but the gas didnt taste very well.. also my beard probably is highly flammable now.

And yes, before I started I removed the fuel pump power, started the engine and let it go until it stopped (surprisingly long, several seconds!), I also opened the fuel filler cap
and released the pressure..

The tankbands fell down after I had removed the tank, i guess its just to put them in place.. I HOPE..

The fuel strainer wasnt very dirty.. it was dirty but not DIRTY.. but I swapped pump and strainer anyway.. I got the wrong gasked for the tank but the old one was in good condition.
The electric connector where correct, but I got one supplied with the pump anyway.

I also took away all fuel from the tank (all possible) and I couldnt see any rust inside the tank.. ok, that plastic baffle is in the way but.. the gasoline I pumped up from the tank was fine too.

..now I just have to put that damn thing back.. not sure if I can do it today, it starts to get late.. still, I already smell gasoline..

I dont rally look forward to it, neither to get the hoses on the pipes, or the tank back up.. even if its more or less empty now..

Will post a few pics later..

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 08-01-2019).]

Thank you for your update.
Before installing the tank, it's a good idea to check (with a ohm meter) that the fuel level sender moves through it's full range of motion after it is mounted in the tank as the float arm can sometimes hang up on the internal plastic baffle. . You might also want to put power to the fuel pump for a very short time to confirm it runs. Be aware that if you delete the pulsator (just above the pump) you will need to replace it with the proper SAE 30R10 (~20 Euro/foot) submersible fuel hose, not regular regulator injection hose.

Powering up a dry/empty fuel pump sounds dangerous, but I can see the point.

Is there any reason to remove the pulsator ? does it usally create troubles ?

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 08-01-2019).]

Leaving the pulsator in is often fine. Some people remove them and if so, it's important to use the proper hose as regular fuel injection hose will break down in this application.

It's unlikely that your filter sock would limit the fuel flow enough to cause your symptoms, but anything is possible. Given how difficult removing the Fiero's fuel tank is, most of us typically replace the pump with a new unit to maximize reliability. Our fuel pumps often experience problems after sitting for long periods.

%(&(()=()=& !!

DAMN CAR.. now I filled it with fresh fuel and started it, it goes EXACTLY as before

It goes fine on idle and if I rev it slowly, as soon as I push the pedal too fast it misfires heavily.

Now I replaced more or less everything about the ignition system, including the ignition module and pickup coil, cables, rotor, dist cap..
AND I replaced the fuel pump, fuel strain and fuel filter. ..and the fuel..

I dont know what to do.. what can it be ? fuel pressure regulator ? ..I have no idea.

I recorded a little movie too how it reacts but i havent uploaded it anywhere..

The strange thing is that it ran really fine for like 40km after I got the car, then this suddenly started.

I seriously thinking about putting out an ad for it and sell it as it is, the car clearly does not like me at all

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 08-04-2019).]

It really sounds like a weak spark or a fuel pressure problem. You Did change the ignition coil, didn't you?

Yes, it could be a fuel pressure regulator, maybe, and if you could get a Schrader adapter for your gauge you could record the FP with your phone while accelerating. . Checking for fuel or it's smell in the pressure gauge's vacuum line (it connects to the t-fitting off the passenger side plenum) might show a failed diaphragm.
Anyone, I forget, is it possible to look at the O-2 sensor data with a scanner?

OK here is something to look at... From what I can get your car starts and idles fine but when you give it gas it misfires. Have you tried to drive it like this at all?? You mention a few pages ago when you down shifted the car "boomed" or backfired on a test drive. I had a fiero a few years back that lost power on the freeway.. would idle but basicly die when you tried to drive it. In the end.. long story I am sure you do not want to hear. The reason was the catalic converter had broken internaly and was blocking most of the exhaust. When the motor tries to move alot of air it gets to much back pressure and does not allow for fresh air to enter the engine. Replaced the cat and the car ran fine. Now I am not saying run out and get a new cat.. that costs to much. See if you can disconnnect the exhaust from infront of the cat and run the car. Be carefull of the hot exhaust and where it is going... it can start a fire. It may be the backfiring has broken the insides of the cat lose. So if it does fix the issue you need to look into that.

You have put to much in the old girl to stop now.. keep at it and you will be the talk of the town in your sweet Fiero.

One way the members here have used to check for a blocked catalyst is to temporarily remove the O-2 sensor.

Long time, no update..

To make a long story short.. my girlfriend went crazy and moved away, and I had to spend a lot of time and money to fight in court (still not finished),
and buy her out from the house and well.. She also claimed ownership of the cars including the fiero and I had to fight about that too. Well well, happened a lot of bad and boring stuff
but it ended with me owning the house and cars, but having very little money left.

Anyway that meant that I really havent had any time, money or energy to work on the fiero, its still in the air and havent been on ground since the change of fuel pump, that would be 3 years ago or so.

But now I plan to get it working again.. I tried to start it just before winter came, but the battery was dead (even if it have been on charge all the time with a suitable charger, but the battery was very old.)
and then I didnt do anything more.

Now I have another battery (that I think works) and also I bought myself a fuel pressure tester, I really hope it fits, but it should.

So as soon as the snow is gone and its a bit warmer I plan to work on the car again.


Glenn

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Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast!

quote Originally posted by Repulsiv: %(&(()=()=& !! DAMN CAR.. now I filled it with fresh fuel and started it, it goes EXACTLY as before It goes fine on idle and if I rev it slowly, as soon as I push the pedal too fast it misfires heavily. Now I replaced more or less everything about the ignition system, including the ignition module and pickup coil, cables, rotor, dist cap.. AND I replaced the fuel pump, fuel strain and fuel filter. ..and the fuel.. I dont know what to do.. what can it be ? fuel pressure regulator ? ..I have no idea. I recorded a little movie too how it reacts but i havent uploaded it anywhere.. The strange thing is that it ran really fine for like 40km after I got the car, then this suddenly started. I seriously thinking about putting out an ad for it and sell it as it is, the car clearly does not like me at all

You didn't mention the ignition coil, often overlooked and will exhibit those types of symptoms, and trick people into chasing a phantom fuel problem. A good aftermarket replacement coil is Standard Blue Streak made in Poland and cost about $35.

quote Originally posted by Skybax: You didn't mention the ignition coil, often overlooked and will exhibit those types of symptoms, and trick people into chasing a phantom fuel problem. A good aftermarket replacement coil is Standard Blue Streak made in Poland and cost about $35.

No I did not replace that, but it seem to work fine.. but you never know.

Not sure if I ever posted that film of how it goes, have to look it upp, it really go fine, on all rpms, its just when you try to accelerate fast it misfires.

if you accelerate slooowly you can easilly get it up in illegal speeds, and high rpm's..


Edit: here is the film.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMFkbR8CSpc

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 02-13-2022).]

I lost track of this thread. Does your check engine light turn on when the key is inserted and turned or is the bulb dead?

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 02-13-2022).]

It works, it lights up first and then turn off.

:/

As Skybax wrote, you may have a problem with the high voltage side of your ignition somewhere (coil, wires, distributor cap, even fouling of your plugs), even if they test okay. An easy place to begin is removing any corrosion at all connections.

Long time, no fiero..

Havent done much with the car for a while after the battery died too..

Yesterday I had a new (used) battery that i put in the car and tried to start it, no go, the starter click but doesnt turn the engine.

I guess I can try to manually "short" the solenoid under the car to see if that works ? ..and if its not remove it and work on it on a bench.

..I really want this car running :P
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Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast!

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 04-23-2023).]

quote Originally posted by Repulsiv: Now I have another battery (that I think works) and also I bought myself a fuel pressure tester, I really hope it fits, but it should.

Did you ever use the fuel pressure tester? What's the reading while the engine's running? And how quickly does the pressure drop when the engine is turned off?

You've already mentioned many many times there's ignition problems. Why play with the fuel system when you know for sure there's problems with the ignition? Fix the igntion issues and then if there's still a problem look elsewhere.

You've said when the car won't start there's no movement of the tach. That's telling me it's definitely spark related. Either computer, distributor/ignition components, or wiring.