'88 5 speed with 57k and will look nearly new after a solid detail and some paint touch up. I got it relatively cheaply because it makes a thump thump thump sound when you have the clutch pushed in and its idling. It came with a binder full of receipts outlining maintenance and upgrades, and I noticed a "kevlar racing clutch kit" was installed around the same time as the KYB suspension (about 20k ago). Could the higher pressure clutch have anything to do with it?
The seller thought it was either the TO bearing or the thrust bearing, so if I have to pull everything apart am I better off (from a value perspective) keeping it stock or doing a L67 swap? If the answer is L67, do I need wider tires to really take advantage of the power increase? I've got a few other questions but that is probably a good start. I appreciate any input, thanks!
My opinion would be fix the problem you have and enjoy the car before swapping motors. Once you start that process it may never end and then you wont be driving a nice car. Just put some new tires on the stock rims, that will be plenty enough to drive that car around.
That's what I'm inclined to do, but the seller felt like for as much work as pulling everything is no one would want to do it twice. Say it is one of the bearings, are we talking a 10 hour job or a 40 hour job? I've got a decently equipped garage and am somewhat experienced (body swaps, motor swaps, etc.).
If it was me, I would fix the current issue and clean up the interior, dropping the engine and transmission is a job, but no where near what your going to dig your self into if you go with an engine swap, plus it would familiar yourself more with the car, I myself currently have two Fieros one I'm doing a swap on and the other basically stock, the stock one has been way more enjoyable than the on-going swap/rebuild one, but that said everyone is different and it's just my two cents.
Its seems to only do it when I push it to the floor and the clutch will disengage before then, but I haven't driven it enough to get a exact feeling of when it releases.
Yeah I've had enough stalled projects to have the same experience. If I were to do it I would take a few weeks to plan it out and gather all the necessary parts, then try and knock it out over a couple weekends/nights. The longer things sit the more comfortable we get with them sitting a little longer...
Its seems to only do it when I push it to the floor and the clutch will disengage before then, but I haven't driven it enough to get a exact feeling of when it releases.
You don't even need to be driving the car to figure this out. While the car is sitting with the engine idling, how far does the clutch pedal need to be pushed in until you can easily shift the tranny into gear? Is the "thump sound " being produced at this point, or do you have to push the clutch pedal in further to produce that sound?
Hmmm so the I can shift easily up and down with the pedal halfway down, though I really have to muscle it left to right when going into 1st or reverse. It does have a short throw shifter. I took it for a pretty decent drive but I couldn't get it to make the thumping noise like it did at one point yesterday. There is a very, very slight tick as soon as you depress the clutch and the RPMs dip 100 or so.
Hmmm so the I can shift easily up and down with the pedal halfway down, though I really have to muscle it left to right when going into 1st or reverse.
That's the select cable... which is notorious on the Getrag for becoming corroded inside the cable. Rodney Dickman sells a very good replacement.
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Originally posted by Modesto:
...but I couldn't get it to make the thumping noise like it did at one point yesterday.
So, bad news that you don't need to pull the tranny?
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Originally posted by Modesto:
There is a very, very slight tick as soon as you depress the clutch and the RPMs dip 100 or so.
Could be any number of things. Lifter... cracked exhaust manifold...
It's so odd because I couldn't really notice anything at the beginning of the test drive yesterday, then when I went to pull out to drive it home after paying it was a very audible thumping but didn't notice it again the 65 mile drive home (though it was almost entirely interstate). I guess I'm good to drive it until it starts thumping again? He claimed it did it after it warmed up the entire time he owned it, which was 5 years but under 2000 miles...
Thanks for the tip on the cable, sound like that's exactly what my issue is. The tick is really soft and I have to roll down the window and lean my head out to hear it. It's just weird because it's only when the clutch is engaged.
So I'm assuming for $2800 I did ok then? If in the future I decide to do the L67 swap, is that going to help or hurt the value of the car? Thanks for all the help so far, you guys and this forum are a life saver!
There is a very, very slight tick as soon as you depress the clutch...
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Originally posted by Modesto:
The tick is really soft and I have to roll down the window and lean my head out to hear it. It's just weird because it's only when the clutch is engaged.
Which is it... when the clutch is engaged or disengaged?
If it's while engaged in neutral, then it's probably the infamous Getrag rattle.
After total losses, poor '88 GT's getting cobbed up with backyard mods or mods in general, kit cars, customs and just plain worn out, there probably can't be 1/2 left.
I say keep it stock. It will be a much better and desirable investment.
It does seem a shame to molest such a good stock example, and honestly its plenty quick for me, I would probably just get myself in trouble with more power. I'd be interested in dynoing it at some point just to see what makes it to the wheels.
I took it out again and got it to do it. I then had my wife press the clutch while I listened to the engine bay. The sound seems to be coming about 2/3rds up the engine as you come away from the transmission. I'll pick up a stethoscope tomorrow to get a better idea. It got to where the sound was there all the time idling, but got louder if you so much as rested your foot on the clutch pedal. I would say its more of a tick with maybe a soft knocking quality when you are standing next to the engine. What does that tell us?
PS. I took I short video but I don'y know how to post it here.
Edit: I'm going to start a thread in the tech section about this issue, but I'm glad to hear more opinions on the stock vs L67 front.
[This message has been edited by Modesto (edited 04-09-2020).]
Originally posted by Modesto: So I'm assuming for $2800 I did ok then? If in the future I decide to do the L67 swap, is that going to help or hurt the value of the car? Thanks for all the help so far, you guys and this forum are a life saver!
For a 50K mile 88GT with only minor issues I'd say you got a steal. If you search the forum you will find many L67 threads with swap cost and time estimates so you can get an idea what you'd be facing. There's a wide range due to different approaches, goals, skill sets, and budget. If it was me I'd fix and enjoy This Fiero and start planning to get a second one someday for the L67 swap. Better yet, you can consider swaps with newer motors since L67s are getting old and hard to find. Which ever swap path you choose for the long-term you can at your leisure amass parts and technical info so you can get fully prepared, and still enjoy driving a rare low-mile 88 that will turn heads (even if it is slower than 90% of the new cars on the road today.) Just my tire-kicker 2c ...
