Cut trunk wall = large problems as the wall is structural to "brace" the strut towers and rear frame members. Driving w/o fixing can "crush" the towers into the gap. Worse if frame has rusted out under the clip where hard to see.
plug to deck lid and was "tied" to inside of hinge frame. Deck lid has/had 3 or 4 wires. 3 to switch on latch, 1 to Power Lid Solenoid if car have that option.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Thanks everybody. And yeah I'm going to weld in some square-stock and sheet metal later to get structure and storage back, but until I get to that point, it makes it slightly easier to work on some things.
I also have to fab up a rear bumper mount because the metal piece it originally bolted to was smashed in, which I believe is why it was a salvage title.
Okay uh I don't think those are the EGR lines because there are already lines running from the EGR to the solenoid and vacuum sensor... These seem to have a lot more length than needed to reach those parts as well.
I mean they might be part of that system but where are they supposed to run into?
[This message has been edited by DangerZone (edited 02-28-2021).]
Okay uh I don't think those are the EGR lines because there are already lines running from the EGR to the solenoid and vacuum sensor... These seem to have a lot more length than needed to reach those parts as well.
I mean they might be part of that system but where are they supposed to run into?
I missed that your trunk wall was missing. Maybe they are the charcoal/cruise control vacuum lines? They would have tun along the wall that's missing. However i swear i see them hooked to the egr solenoid. I have seen another trunk delete before. Make sure you get that reinforced.
Okay uh I don't think those are the EGR lines because there are already lines running from the EGR to the solenoid and vacuum sensor... These seem to have a lot more length than needed to reach those parts as well.
I mean they might be part of that system but where are they supposed to run into?
When they cut out that section of rear firewall, they cut right through those hoses since that's where they route. They mount to the rear firewall and head towards the driver side of the car. They probaby went to the evap canister. Here is a colored diagram of all the lines from BuddyCraig:
On to a more serious question.... Are you sure you want to take on this project? I didn't realize this was the same car as your introdution thread on this forum. It's pretty much destroyed and will cost you so much money to get it safe for the road as well as it appears it needs a complete interior? Are you sure you don't want to part it out and buy a more "complete" Fiero? And I'm not ragging on you, I just hope you understand the time and money it's going to take to get this car safe to drive.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 02-28-2021).]
I noticed the ID of the lines match the evap canister perfectly so bought new lines and got them hooked up yesterday.
I'm not too concerned about the amount of work involved since, over the course of a few years, I want to build a custom car and don't forsee having to pay anything in labor except for fiberglass, paint, and tint, *maybe* electrical but I think with the amount of info here I can handle that part. The engine runs pretty decent and once I install the new clutch kit it'll be /technically/ driveable though I'll wait til the rear end is done.
I've rebuilt a couple motorcycles but never a car so there's a lot more than I might have been ready for when I got it, but I eventually plan on a case swap so I guess I gotta *get* ready!
Btw It has all the interior trim pieces and seats, it's just disassembled. It also has the rear deck window trim and louvers, I just kept them off to detail the engine bay. As for the structural aspect I'm SMAW certified and have fab shop experience so I'm confident I can handle that part.
[This message has been edited by DangerZone (edited 03-01-2021).]
Where about are you in the US? If you were nearby in CA with a truck, id let you have the whole rust free rear trunk assembly off of a car. You have not mentioned if you are any good with a welder. There are some here who have cut the whole back of the car off and replaced it due to rust. but they were decent welders.
Yeah bro SMAW means Shielded Metal Arc Welding, stick welding lol. All positions certified.
And unfortunately I'm in South Carolina but I'd be willing to pay shipping and for your time to have it, for sure. It's kind of a weird part that I'd probably only be able to otherwise get by checking junkyards and cutting it out then and there.
Yeah bro SMAW means Shielded Metal Arc Welding, stick welding lol. All positions certified.
And unfortunately I'm in South Carolina but I'd be willing to pay shipping and for your time to have it, for sure. It's kind of a weird part that I'd probably only be able to otherwise get by checking junkyards and cutting it out then and there.
Oh ok yeah having actual words for an acronym helps. you say SMAW and im like oh gnarly surfer bro. You probably be better off finding it locally, freight on that would be ridiculous. And actually probably not that hard to fabricate something since you are a certified welder.
[This message has been edited by skywurz (edited 03-01-2021).]
Originally posted by DangerZone: I also have to fab up a rear bumper mount because the metal piece it originally bolted to was smashed in, which I believe is why it was a salvage title.
⚠️ Warning: Stop right there... <I B tag added> Because in Many places that Title will cause problems if they allow you to fix them at all. Example: Some States will require you to have a Special Inspection to drive it on the road again. Much harder Inspection to pass then normal to make sure repair is done right w/o stolen parts etc. If has iffy/illegal "Brake Upgrades" etc then they can fail the strict inspection too. Other places will not allow salvage cars to be fix and you never get registered and tagged.
If you get a Tag... Know that Salvage Titles are problems if/when you sell a car too. CarFax and related can list Total cars, Salvage Title, etc.
It doesn't mater in most cases for people making a Trailer Queen car that's never driven on street again.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 03-02-2021).]
[QUOTE] ⚠️ Warning: Stop right there... <I B tag added> Because in Many places that Title will cause problems if they allow you to fix them at all. Example: Some States will require you to have a Special Inspection to drive it on the road again. Much harder Inspection to pass then normal to make sure repair is done right w/o stolen parts etc. If has iffy/illegal "Brake Upgrades" etc then they can fail the strict inspection too. Other places will not allow salvage cars to be fix and you never get registered and tagged.
Yeah I'm not really concerned with the idea of selling it since selling a custom car is pretty much always a loss. I can get what is called a rebuilt or custom title later if I want, and you can register salvage cars where I am if they pass a walk-around inspection.
In a bureaucratic system there is a form for just about everything, it's just not always easy to find out what form and procedure you have to follow to get the desired result.
DangerZone, if you can't work out a deal with the trunk in California, Tha Driver, just down I-85, in Commerce, Georgia has a car we salvaged and gave to him. It's known as The Joel Project. No rust.
Tha Driver is a Pennocks member, so you can find his contact info here. If not, PM me and I'll give you his email and phone number.
DangerZone, if you can't work out a deal with the trunk in California, Tha Driver, just down I-85, in Commerce, Georgia has a car we salvaged and gave to him. It's known as The Joel Project. No rust.
Tha Driver is a Pennocks member, so you can find his contact info here. If not, PM me and I'll give you his email and phone number.
Thanks bud. I might do that but it might just be cheaper to build a frame out of square stock and sheet metal.
The rear end supports that the bumper pad went on were also mangled, so I gotta cut those back and rebuild that section.
If anyone can measure the distance from the edge of the slot closest to the car, out to the edge where the rear bumper pad went on, that would be a *huge* help to me in the near future.
