So after several months of undoing, checking and fabrication, I have finally started to put my car's engine back together. The crankshaft and camshaft are back in the 3800 block!
Here is the redesigned deep sump pan just placed to keep the dust out between work sessions:
https://youtu.be/y2lujREdZqo Video on how not to get your big end back into spec! This is not the way to do it, but it's worksπ Piston preparation as well.
I did a bit of work on the cylinder heads today; not much more than checking valve seats and cleaning. Very boring! No photos. I started to look in detail as well at my clutch assembly. The flywheel insert is shot!
I've written to SPEC CLUTCHES to see if this wear is normal on a racing clutch with less that 5000km?
Otherwise, you can just click on my latest video, if you want to? It's the work done last week: https://youtu.be/dnlx4j5_2HA
You have to take into consideration that when you hit a bump the springs will compress and the car will be a lot lower.Just trying to help. Buildt a few of these and have learned a lot. Don
It will be my anti-roll bar that hits the ground first. It's just in front of the sump. While my intercooler air dam is often scraping, I have never had the anti-roll touch the ground.
Did you have a magical head gasket that just peeled off, leaving a clean surface (what we see in the video), or did you have to clean off gasket residues?
I never noticed that the 3800 head has a bump where the spark plug is, which would bring the spark plug more towards the middle of the combustion chamber.
I may have not filmed it? π€As was said in the video, here's the finished item that I did earlier!π I probably stoned the mating surface before, along with the block. Here's me stoning the intake mating surface (same technique):
Engine, gearbox and sub-frame/cradle back together:
There is a good chance that this will all go back in over the weekend ππ
The videos are way behind as it takes time to edit and make something that even I don't get bored watching! I probably won't bother with doing this YouTube thing very much in the future; nobody watches them!π Apart from my loyal 82 subscribersππ (thanks to you few fellow like-minded gearheads!)
I've got others half done/rushes/ideas like: Fuel pump mods and tank restaration. Getrag clutch fork repairs (recharging the fork tips with weld beads) Header insulation and engine bay heat management. PCM pinout and wiring. Etc....
But in the end I'll just finish putting the car back on the road and maybe film the 1st start up on a livestream. No editing required! Ha Ha!π
After recharging and hand filing the gasket flanges (warped/heat distorted; especially the turbo T3 flange!), I finally got the exhaust manifolds fitted:
Last job: Fit the turbo and the power train can go back inπ
That is interesting placement for the air to air and oil cooler. Iβm looking at accumulatorβs trying to decide or what would be best placement to feed and other plumbing.
That is interesting placement for the air to air and oil cooler. Iβm looking at accumulatorβs trying to decide or what would be best placement to feed and other plumbing.
Yes, but it wasn't my idea. I first saw this type of setup many years ago on this forum; Darth Fiero I believeπ It has been working well for me (trackdays etc...) since 2014! As for oiling, I have now made a deep baffled oil pan. The accumulator idea would maybe run out of reserve on the long hard left turns that I encounter? Maybe not. Anyway, good luck with your setupππ
Not fitting the long driveshaft helps me with checking for potential leaks, turbo problems, etc ...
It ran fine, but the AN fuel fittings that feed the fuel rails leaked! (Thanks cheepo/crap made AN fittings!π . There are 2 new ones ordered; quality aero grade units at 25β¬ each.)
I should get the car back on its wheels for next weekend π
Today I finished fitting the rear suspension + driveshafts. The gearbox got it's Motul race gearoil fill. Wouldn't want to forget that before the first test drive?!
The cars goes for the 2 yearly inspection (contrΓ΄le technique) next monday. I've got my work cut out to get everything finishedπ€ͺ Videos to follow, when I've got a bit more timeπ
If you speak to your dogs in English, do they just look at you funny... or do they still seem to comprehend what you're saying? I've always felt that dogs tend to go by the tone of our voices, moreso than the actual words. Even my cat understands when I state authoritatively... "No!"
I have trouble understanding when my DOG says "No".....But, hey, when she barks once I roll over once, barks twice I roll over twice, but three times I don't know what to do...I am an ex-gov-mint worker, so my way of counting is bit different than others; One......too.......many.....
By the way, I want to see your car do a lap....wish I was closer to see it in person.
You're able to do a bunch of big work on a car in a small garage!
Running the engine 20 minutes unloaded to seat the rings is unconventional; other folks recommend some load on the engine so the cylinder pressure forces the ring into the bore.
Yes, my dogs do understand the 2 languages. And it is a the tonality of the voice that counts. (I was trying to be funny; aspergers humour?π)
For the running in, my explaination was a little off. Yes, it is the running under mild loads, and varying the engine speed, that beds the rings.
As for the garage space, I would love a double garage one day! But we make do with what we have; it's not the size that counts, it's what you do with it that matters!πππ€
Yes, my dogs do understand the 2 languages. And it is a the tonality of the voice that counts. (I was trying to be funny; aspergers humour?π)
Heh heh, no problem. I was genuinely curious, as alas, I'm not able to speak to my critters in more than one language. My dearly departed husky had the uncanny ability to totally ignore any/every language whatsoever... but I loved her anyway.
