I have two spray bottles of Invisible Glass, and have actually ALWAYS had this problem with the product: It leaves a haze afterward, despite what the bottle claims. I've tried using it on mirrors in the house, and different car windshields. While it may LOOK mostly clear in a car, when there's a glare from the sun, the whole windshield goes kinda foggy, and is really hard to see out of.
Is it just me having this problem? Does it 'go bad' after a while? Haven't been able to find much online, but maybe I'm using the wrong search terms, or the company is good at suppressing bad reviews?
What kind of cloth are you using ? I’ve found microfiber towels always leave a hazy look. Norwex makes a towel to be used only on glass and mirrors. You use no cleaner at all…..it is unbelievable. I would prob clay bar the glass first….wipe clean then use the Norwex.
One of 2 things: You're using a towel that has some detergent residue in the fibers or the product may need to be buffed out to make the glass crystal clear. Almost every glass cleaner I've used (and I've tried them all) requires me to buff out the glass after I dry it. It makes no sense to me either but I have the same issue with the haze being left behind.
I DID notice if I wipe off the residue while it's still wet with a microfiber towel, it works better, but you have to REALLY scrub, and use an ABSOLUTELY dry towel (yes, buffing it out)
I DID notice if I wipe off the residue while it's still wet with a microfiber towel, it works better, but you have to REALLY scrub, and use an ABSOLUTELY dry towel (yes, buffing it out)
That's exactly my issue, having to scrub the hell out of the glass with a clean towel to remove the haze.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 12-01-2022).]
Invisible Glass Reach & Clean and related doesn't work in cars. Not even first time because car glass have road crap on it even inside the cabin that quickly plugs the material. If the material is treated w/ silicon etc like many eye glass cleaner then the treatment mixes w/ road crap and hard time cleaning even w/ glass cleaner and whatever rag or paper towel. If you smoke or vape then have even worse problems using these. (at home you often have kitchen and heating smoke cause same problems)
Some Glass I've cleaned commercially was so smoked the first cleaning step was Bathroom Tub and Tile cleaner to loosen the crap stuck on it. Then has to watch final glass cleaner so two cleaner don't go nuke and cause HAZMAT problems.
Also...
RainX et al outside and "anti fog" products often have similar problem.
Some say Don't use microfiber and/or paper towels to apply or wipe after but even w/o that don't use them. Many Glass Treatment Products has chemical that doesn't play well with them. RTFL. RX outside short version say apply w/ paper but "buff" w/ cloth.
Many say use Lint Free cotton or other organic rag But If a rag has been washed... often have fabric softener etc that causes problems too.
RainX and many others "go bad" after any seal is broken or made a year or more even if doesn't have factory seal. Like Gas, often some chem's evap fast, often way fast, then other parts in the bottle and product often looks same as new.
Years ago GM relabel Bon Ami as Factory Authorized Glass Cleaner to clean windshields and more. (Can still find old GM "cans" of it on Eflay showing Bon Ami label sealing the top.) ⚠️Bon Ami now also makes a "cheaper" product and can be hard to find the original red label in many stores.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I've encountered this as well from both the spray bottle and aerosol variant, oddly only on auto glass. Stuff works fine when I use it on glass display cases and framed artwork.
The best thing I've used on auto glass? Pour some washer fluid into a spray bottle, preferably the green bug-cleaning stuff. Dirt cheap and never streaks with the Sam's Club microfibers I use.
Originally posted by jonrev: The best thing I've used on auto glass? Pour some washer fluid into a spray bottle, preferably the green bug-cleaning stuff. Dirt cheap and never streaks with the Sam's Club microfibers I use.
Depending on formula this can work or not or "wreck" other part it touches. Examples: "Winter" Blue protects the system to ~ -20*F using Alcohol often Methanol that many interior plastics etc hate. "Summer" Blue has little or no Alcohol. This in often to meet "Low VOC" rules in some places. If you fill anything in "summer" you better dump it before "winter" or will Freeze and Break whatever is in. "Bug Juice" formulas can be either so RTFL. RainX Pink and other "better" cleaners may cause problems when used for other things.
Then there are Prestone and other cleaners to actually clean and remove light ice in freeze weather. All brands I know of use Ethelyn Glycol added to Winter Formula. (They are not a 50/50 EG Mix like coolant system need.)
Originally posted by jonrev: Much less of an issue if you spray the rag vs. the surface.
Many will spray the glass surface or other things thinking = to "Windex" cleaners uses Ammonia and little else often just because many are Blue.
Here's a MSDS/SDS of typical windshield washer fluids from a maker doesn't hind the amount of Methanol as "trade secret." No bs saying 20-35 % as most do. https://www.consulab.com/fi...windshieldwasher.pdf Summery: "Summer" 32*F @ < 1% +22*F a bit more @ < 10% "Winter" -20*F @ 31% and -25*F @ 34% (All by Weight.)
I've never seen +22*F or -25*F Fluids sold but don't live where pushes -25. Most others don't offer -25*F rated cleaner.
Prewash windows in soap and water then wash again metholated spirit and water paper towl that think it is clean then get some Autoglym glass polish and watch the cloth turn black in seconds from still dirty glass.
[This message has been edited by Australian (edited 12-23-2022).]
Originally posted by Australian: Prewash windows in soap and water then wash again metholated spirit and water paper towl that think it is clean then get some Autoglym glass polish and watch the cloth turn black in seconds from still dirty glass.
What "Soap" used can mater even w/ second wash. Because Many "soaps" leave a lot of film behind and the film can be very hard to remove. Either a real Soap w/ Fats Lye and related parts to other types like many Laundry products. Many "Soap" are not Soaps but Detergents and have water softeners and more to deal with cleaning glass and other hard surfaces.
"Tap" and bottled water can make problems too. Many "tap water" sources are Hard Water and have a lot of Minerals plus Chlorine etc. Nearly All Bottle water for drinking has Added Minerals and more after been thru Reverse Osmosis filtration that many Governments require. Including "Spring Water" that to go thru RO before bottling.
Is similar reason why when getting new Brake rotors and drums with "oil coating" now nearly always veg and other organics I clean w/ Dawn and other dish "soap" and then use brake clean. Brake cleaner likely can remove the heavy films but you use multiple cans trying that. Dawn and many others to clean food equipment doesn't leave a lot of film.
Note: If people use Rain-X and related even Brake and other strong Cleaners/Solvents can fail to remove the products and most windshield wipers still have problems. Is why I tell people only use that for side glass on cars etc.
The wife bought a beetle years back and they had a big sticker showing the year across the windshield. Washed and waxed the car, cleaned the windows….looked great…until I pulled it in the car port. You could still see where the year numbers were. Tried cleaning again…no go. What finally worked was 0000 steal wool and acetone.
2) Soak a sponge with the Windex, and then scrub the inside of the windshield (One section at a time) (Starting at the top)
3) Use a small squeegee to remove the liquid from the glass (Note, place some paper towels or a big towel on the dash
The only limiting factor is finding a >>Good<< small squeegee...I used to buy the Ettore acrylic 6-inch squeegee, but they re-formulated the rubber so it does not properly scrap off the liquid.
