Hi everyone! I just recently got a 1987 Pontiac Fiero. The dealer I got it from got an oil change, smog checked it, recharged the A/C, and recharged the battery. All the parts inside and out are original, and I would like to keep it as much like that as I can, while also keeping it safe. Does anyone have any ideas as to what might need to be replaced?
P.S. if anyone knows a good place that checks out Fieros in Northern California, that would be greatly appreciated!
What's so mysterious about Eureka? Anyone who's traveled down any length of the Pacific Coast Hwy knows Eureka. Heck, I think I've even stayed in a motel there more than once.
What's so mysterious about Eureka? Anyone who's traveled down any length of the Pacific Coast Hwy knows Eureka.
well, when one moves to the other side of the country and sees their small town they used to live in mentioned, its kinda cool. and i also forgot that the 101 runs through it....
Just the other day i found a reddit post from the top of Storm King Trail overlooking Lake Crescent up in Washington, near where I lived in Port Angeles.
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Heck, I think I've even stayed in a motel there more than once.
im so sorry to hear that. it was not a good town to live in haha, not safe. i had 3 bikes stolen from our yard there. homeless infested drug town.
Generally, there's a lot of things you'll want to check with a car this old that also applies to most other cars as well, but there are some things that are Fiero specific that you'll also want to look at which can become "trouble areas" ... I'll try to list out as many as I can think of:
- Battery Tray: This tends to rust out, probably less likely on the west coast, but if it spent any time in the midwest or upper-east coast, you'll want to check it for rust. - Wheel well rust: The rear wheel wells tend to rust out (again, if mid-west or east coast). You can check by lifting the trunk carpet. - Rear tie-rod end bushings: Yes! The Fiero has tie-rods in the rear, and the bushings can wear out causing your back-end to get squirrelly. - EGR Tube: There is a tube that connects just behind the throttle body, that then goes right into the exhaust Y-pipe. This cracks from heat and wear, and can cause a high-idle and lean condition. They sell brand new ones that are much more flexible and can help solve that problem for you. - Cooling Tubes: There are a pair of stainless steel tubes that run along the underside of the left and right door thresholds. Some shops think these are part of the frame, and use a jack on them... which causes them to bend and / or break. Check them to make sure they're not kinked. - Transmission Cooler: If it's an automatic, you'll want to check the transmission cooling lines that go from the hard lines to the transmission in the engine bay. These can rot and split, which can cause a fire.
That's about all I can really think of... other than that, there's general things you'll want to check and / or replace: - All the fluids... brake, transmission and / or gear oil, engine oil, etc. - Fuel filter, air filter, etc. - IAT Sensor (they can get corroded and don't work as well) - Decarbonization cleaner (throw a can of BG-44 into the tank or Seafoam) - Brake lines (make sure they aren't bulging, etc.) - Tires (make sure htey aren't old and cracked) - Engine mounts / bushings - Suspension bushings, etc. - Grease all pivot and contact points in doors, trunk and hood, suspension, etc. - Check brakes, replace rotors with cross-drilled to prevent brake fade (I used to get that a LOT)
Anyone who's traveled down any length of the Pacific Coast Hwy knows Eureka. Heck, I think I've even stayed in a motel there more than once. 
